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Thread: LS turbo build help (parts included)

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    Default LS turbo build help (parts included)

    hey guys...i'm wanting to piece together a LS turbo and want to do it right and have a very reliable daily! I have a semi put together list of what to get but want to make sure everything that I am thinking of is all that I need...please state any suggestions or parts that I am missing or better parts etc. also looking to have around 300whp give or take thanks guys



    *t3/t4 turbo (50 trim or 57 trim) or GT28r
    *LS engine
    -Eagle rods
    -CP pistons (between 9.5:1-10:1 CP)
    -possible cams
    -full gasket replacement and replacing all the seals
    -Replacing all the bearings
    *planned to keep the head stock but open to suggestions
    -don't neccesarily want to rev high or anything but if will help with reliabity
    then i will try it
    *also wanting to get opinions of whether to try and sleeve or not...or block
    guard...i had planned or keeping stock bore and everything but want engine
    to be safe and reliable
    *Hondata s300
    *750cc injectors (incase i decide to get more power, they will be suited for it)
    *upgrading the clutch
    -also suggestions of whether to replace flywheel
    *Walpro fuel pump
    *All the intercooler piping and intercooler w/ couplers and everything
    *turbo manifold
    -wanting to keep a/c and p/s with a 3" dp to 3" exhaust so prolly will
    have to use a half size radiator
    *hks ssq bov
    *upgraded fuel rail
    *skunk2 intake manifold (open to suggestions for better manifolds for boost)
    *possibly replacing the axles for better ones that will hold the hp
    *Oil feed lines
    *boost, a/f, and oil temp gauges
    *tuning (suggestions for places and for types of tuning)
    -part throttle and wide open throttle tuning
    *also doing the OBD1 conversion for tuning (open to suggestions there also!)
    *Tial 38mm wastegate

    *I also need help with finding the proper intercooler size and also the piping size! Don't want to cut the front bumper and was just wanting to see if there were any suggestions! *

    that is all that I have and hope i got everything...but just let me know guys if i am missing anything! thanks for everything! really trying to make this turbo build possible and want it to be worth it and reliable! thanks again

    Mezz
    Last edited by mezzies96teg; 01-05-2008 at 11:51 AM. Reason: had some add-ins

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    also will have ACL rod bearings and ARP head studs and rod bolts! later

    MEzz

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    you can buy a sleeved ls block for like 850 bucks on honda tech, so if you got the money, go ahead and get it. how much do you have set back for this build? to me, its lookin to be around 6k. you will not need an upgraded fuel rail, so scratch that off. for brands of turbo manifolds, there are a ton of good companies. afiturbo.com, spoolinperformance.com, peakboost, full-race.com, and a bunch more. you can keep the head stock, but i would go ahead and rebuild it when you rebuild the block. send the stock one off to laskeyracing.com and they will fully work it for about a grand (includes valvetrain and labor). oh and its called a walbro 255lph fuel pump. for tuning shops, there are a few on here and ill let them jump in. if you got any other questions, you can pm me.
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    thanks for the input bro! hey i remember you from GAtegs....i am a member but may not remember me tho...but as far as savings...they are building slowly by the day but i plan to have about 6k in it...i want everything to be done right and i want it to as reliable as possible *sorry for the typo on the walbro fuel pump...it was late and just typed faster than i could read lol* and i am gonna start looking into the different turbos to see which one and also reading up on trying to find an a/c compatible manifold that will allow for a 3" downpipe! if you have any suggestions let me know! Thanks bro!

    Keep it coming guys!

    Mezz

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    don't waste your $$ on the afr gauge unless you plan on getting a wideband...narrowband only can show you if you're truely lean...it could show rich and actually be lean since they only read high 13:1 and leaner.

    sleeved or blockguard isn't really necessary for 300whp.

    get the boomslang obd2-1 conversion harness...i've seen 0 failure with his harnesses and only recommend those. i've seen high failure rates from a few of the big name brands because they are manufactured by a 3rd party.

    any of the fabrication and tuning we can help with that.
    Last edited by scttydb411; 12-30-2007 at 11:51 AM.
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    Im sorry but it wont cost you 6k! I know i can put that build toghter for under 4K maybe 5k tops!! and that getting everything you listed. Just shop around before you buy something, dont jump on it quick and do alot of research!

    If your wanting to keep AC and power sterring i would get a Inline pro manifold, with that manifold and a 3inch Dp i kept Ac for a long time. I also made well over 500Hp on it.
    Axles i would keep stock ones, unless you plan to race alot. It has been proven stock axles will hold the power and run 9 sec no problems! If you race just pre load the car. i would go with a stage 6 clutch system from ACT with HD flywheel,
    For the power that you are wanting i wouldnt waste my money getting a blocked sleeved, they ahve been proven to handle well over 600hp. It all depends on how good your car is tuned if you ever slow it up.

    As far as tuners hands down Ed at balanced. he is the master tuner in GA. If you ask anyone off IA about tuners they will all say ED, he just knows his stuff.
    I would build the head some or go with a vtec head if you can. Your power band will be much better and you will enjoy the car more with vtec!!


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    Scottydb411-thanks for the info bro...i had heard other people saying that i only needed the boost gauge and others weren't neccesary and also thanks for the info on the harness!

    B18c1Turboed-thanks for the manifold info! have been searching and that helped alot! And as far as tuners...Ed is the way to go from what i hear from everyone and that is who I am planning to go to also...about how much tuning will it take? well to be as reliable as possible...like 3 hours or more? And also with the manifold...which would i go with...the 4 bolt or 5?
    And also i wanted to ask you...with trying to go with a v-tec head...will it be harder running an LS-vtec (always hear of problems with LS-vtec) and would i need to build v-tec head also? and if i decide to stay with the LS head...when building it, will i need to upgrade the valvetrain (springs, ti-retainers, valves) and would i need to look into port and polishing or just have the head re-worked to be like new?

    Keep it coming guys and thanks for all your help!

    Mezz

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    Quote Originally Posted by mezzies96teg

    B18c1Turboed-thanks for the manifold info! have been searching and that helped alot! And as far as tuners...Ed is the way to go from what i hear from everyone and that is who I am planning to go to also...about how much tuning will it take? well to be as reliable as possible...like 3 hours or more? And also with the manifold...which would i go with...the 4 bolt or 5?
    And also i wanted to ask you...with trying to go with a v-tec head...will it be harder running an LS-vtec (always hear of problems with LS-vtec) and would i need to build v-tec head also? and if i decide to stay with the LS head...when building it, will i need to upgrade the valvetrain (springs, ti-retainers, valves) and would i need to look into port and polishing or just have the head re-worked to be like new?

    Mezz
    ok 1st all turbo manifolds are 4 bolt.I think your talking about the turbo downpipe, if i where you i would go with a 4 bolt they are easier to take on and off. the 5th bolt on the Dp is usally a pain in the ass to get too.
    As far as tning i would say anywhere from 2 too 3 hours would be fine, and car would run awesome.
    As far as the head, i never hear that many problems from people that install it right the 1st time, If you where to do a vtec head the only thing i would upgrade is the springs and retainers, that all.
    I wouldnt port and polish the head at all,or even change the valves unless u want alot more then 700hp. Ill use my car and peters car for example the only thing we have done to are heads is springs, retainers and 1mm valves. and we are making alot of hp. other then that the head are stock ports... hopes that helps!!


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    Quote Originally Posted by mezzies96teg
    also will have ACL rod bearings and ARP head studs and rod bolts! later

    MEzz

    Honda bearings are just as good as ACLs. They're plenty of 800whp Hondas running OEM honda bearings. I wouldn't tear down a motor just to install ACL bearings. They are actually cheaper than OEM Honda bearings. And I'd go ahead and do the ARP headstuds on the initial build. It's worth the extra $100 to do it from the start. It'll save you headgasket issues.
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    Quote Originally Posted by B18c1Turboed
    ok 1st all turbo manifolds are 4 bolt.I think your talking about the turbo downpipe, if i where you i would go with a 4 bolt they are easier to take on and off. the 5th bolt on the Dp is usally a pain in the ass to get too.
    As far as tning i would say anywhere from 2 too 3 hours would be fine, and car would run awesome.
    As far as the head, i never hear that many problems from people that install it right the 1st time, If you where to do a vtec head the only thing i would upgrade is the springs and retainers, that all.
    I wouldnt port and polish the head at all,or even change the valves unless u want alot more then 700hp. Ill use my car and peters car for example the only thing we have done to are heads is springs, retainers and 1mm valves. and we are making alot of hp. other then that the head are stock ports... hopes that helps!!
    thanks bro! ha yea i meant to say that was for the downpipe! but i just wasn't sure which one you were talking about that you said that you used to have the 3" downpipe and keep a/c and p/s.
    And also for the v-tec head...how much of a difference would it make (powerband wise and also whp)? and what would i need to make sure that i do to do it right cause if i did do it i want to do it right the 1st time ya know. and also...which v-tec head is best for LS-vtec...b18c or b16? will having LS-vtec make it less reliable or any harder to tune?
    And also if i keep the LS head, all i will need to do is replace the springs and retainers?
    *I'm also wanting to get a GSR tranny...u think that would be a good choice?

    thanks for all the help! keep it coming!

    Mezz

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLK JDM
    Honda bearings are just as good as ACLs. They're plenty of 800whp Hondas running OEM honda bearings. I wouldn't tear down a motor just to install ACL bearings. They are actually cheaper than OEM Honda bearings. And I'd go ahead and do the ARP headstuds on the initial build. It's worth the extra $100 to do it from the start. It'll save you headgasket issues.
    thanks bro! i had read up on some info today saying that it wasn't a neccesity to get the ACL bearings! and the head studs will be a must with the first build!

    Thanks man

    Mezz

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    bump for the feedback! keep it comin!

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    dont forget the wastegate
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikew
    dont forget the wastegate
    ha i know thats the one thing that i forgot to put...not sure what size to go with...but i know that i want to go with Tial...either a 38mm or 44mm...any suggestions on size to go with?

    thanks bro~!

    Mezz

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    that will depend 2 if the turbo is internally wastegated right? and is it better or not to have the turbo internally wastegated or external? i heard that external is better...but i'm new at this so help me out! lol

    thanks and keep it comin guys! later

    Mezz

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    Quote Originally Posted by mezzies96teg
    ha i know thats the one thing that i forgot to put...not sure what size to go with...but i know that i want to go with Tial...either a 38mm or 44mm...any suggestions on size to go with?

    thanks bro~!

    Mezz
    For the power you are wanting, i would go with a 38mm wastegate.No reason to spend 300 on a 44 wastegate for such low power. And a gsr tranny would be fine with that build


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    Quote Originally Posted by B18c1Turboed
    For the power you are wanting, i would go with a 38mm wastegate.No reason to spend 300 on a 44 wastegate for such low power. And a gsr tranny would be fine with that build
    thanks bro! 38mm it is! keep it coming guys!

    Mezz

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    save a few hundred and get tuned by scttydb411 using crome. and tuning shouldnt be more then 2 hours.

    ed is a good tuner when he wants to be. Also he is used to race cars so he doesnt pay much attention to part throttle daily driving.

    Scotty pays much more attention to daily driven cars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by juan b
    save a few hundred and get tuned by scttydb411 using crome. and tuning shouldnt be more then 2 hours.

    ed is a good tuner when he wants to be. Also he is used to race cars so he doesnt pay much attention to part throttle daily driving.

    Scotty pays much more attention to daily driven cars.
    thats funny! We have never had a problem with ed tuning at all, If you tell him what you want he will do it, my car was tuned for partial throttle and runs perfect on the streets also. You guys just never spoke up and told him what you wanted it for. you get what you pay for~!


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    Quote Originally Posted by B18c1Turboed
    thats funny! We have never had a problem with ed tuning at all, If you tell him what you want he will do it, my car was tuned for partial throttle and runs perfect on the streets also. You guys just never spoke up and told him what you wanted it for. you get what you pay for~!
    if you go to get tuned with a 300 hp car i dont think you should have to explain that the car is not a race car. Its pretty much common sense.

    just a dyno chart to show that ed only tunes good when he wants...


    danny im sure you know whos chart that is, and you also know what happend to that motor less than an hour off the dyno.

    I have had two set ups tuned my scotty and i have never had to tell him what to do.

    i say go to scotty, you will save money using crome. But it up to you. good luck

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    Ive never seen any dyno charts like this from anyother tuner in GA.on a honda/acura


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    thanks for the info guys! i still have a little while before all the tuning and everything will take place...and i will keep doing research and getting opinions and decide on the tuner to go with! thanks for everything and keep it coming with any suggestions...and also wanted to ask

    *would a precision sc61 a good turbo for the power range that i am looking for?
    *also looking at a garrett gt2871r or the gt28rs

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    Quote Originally Posted by mezzies96teg

    *would a precision sc61 a good turbo for the power range that i am looking for?
    *also looking at a garrett gt2871r or the gt28rs
    gt2871r or the gt28rs will give you alot faster spool up. If your going to stay witha ls head, i think those turbos would be good.

    sc61 i ran this turbo years ago, i wasnt happy with the way it preformed at all.i would suggest a t3 60-1 turbo. that was a good turbo and nice power band, ill see if i can find my old dyno chart with that turbo for you


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    can you give me a link or anything to find some more info on the t3 60-1 turbo you are talkin about man? thanks bro

    Mezz

    thanks for everything guys!

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    Hey guys! any suggestions on the size of intercooler to go with and the right piping size to get? gettin ready to start buying things so need to make sure it is the right stuff...thanks guys

    Mezz

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    thanks for evyerthing again guys! the parts list is getting better and better and my knowledge is growing 2! you guys are life savers! thanks

    Mezz

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    have you considered a synapse wastegate? tial is pretty good, but its also a diaphragm wastegate. im not trying to start a debate so for anyone who wants to debate pm me or something. im just sayin look at your options. synapse has a wastegate that is completely piston actuated and doesnt have a diaphragm.
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    ^^thanks for the input pat...i will def look into that! thanks again guys!

    Mezz

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    Ed, no partial throttle? Lol That's why all my cars tuned by Ed run better on the street than a stock ecu, not to mention 27-30 mpg on pump gas tune. Scotty is a great tuner no doubt, but Ed is An Og. Dude just pm b18cturboed, his name is Danny . He will walk you through all the stuff you need to know.

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    ^^thanks 2.0 i will make sure to pm him to figure everything out!

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    I might add, that Scotty is tuning two motors, I have built in the near future...

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    wanted to get some opinions on this package...
    http://www.spoolinperformance.com/sp...only-p-29.html

    i am going with the log manifold and i like the spoolin performance manifold...but also thinking about getting an inlinepro manifold (lifetime warranty ) and wanted to see if this would be worth considering

    it has the mani, dp (going w/ 3"a/c), dumptube, tial 38mm wastegate...and for a great price!

    just let me know guys and thanks for everything!

    Mezz

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    well i already posted about this on gategs.com, but it DOES NOT come with the wastegate. i had that combo. the menu is only to select what flange to go on the manifold. its a great manifold and spoolin has the best warranty you can get.
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    what made you sell yours if you don't mind me askin pat? i just wanna make sure that i'm gettin the right things...thanks again bro on this post and the one on gategs! later

    Mezz

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    i am going for upwards of 600hp and well a log just aint cuttin it
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    i am going for upwards of 600hp and well a log just aint cuttin it
    sweet bro! how much did you have with the log manifold? i am just trying to get 300-350hp...u think it will be ok with that? thanks for all the input man! later

    Mezz

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    yeah it can handle that power no problem. i only had it street tuned, but id estimate i had probably 320ish. maxxed out the honda map sensor on a 60 trim turbo. it will work perfectly for your goals
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    hey guys...have been doin my research and thinkin of going with a sleeved block for my build! i am thinkin of going with this
    http://www.tunertoys.zoovy.com/produ...B18_Block.html
    and also possibly thinkin of changing the stock bore to like 82mm or so...would this be useful or should i just stick to the stock bore and the sleeves...just let me know guys and thanks!

    Mezz

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    if you are sleeving it, bore it out to at least 83mm. more displacement will give you faster spool and more torque.
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Welcome back to ImportAtlanta. We are currently undergoing many changes, so please report any issues you encounter with the site using the 'Contact Us' button below. Thank you!