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Thread: D16A6 reving up and down after jumpstart???

  1. #1
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
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    Question D16A6 reving up and down after jumpstart???

    Problem started after I jump started my car because I left my LED interior light on for 4 days. I didn't notice my ignition was in the on position when I hooked up the cables between my ford van(high output alt. for all the equipment I have to use at work. I've jumped many cars off with this van with no issues.)

    After my car warmed up like normal (idling at 800-1000RPMs) it started to rev up to about 1500-2000RPMs and then down to about 500RPMs then back up and so on. The car runs fine while driving or if you give it a little gas.

    No CEL but was flashing a 7 and a 14 from previous trouble shooting. cleared the codes and they haven't came back. swapped ECU for a known good one with no change.

    If I unplug the IACV it reves up and down faster. if I unplug TPS its goes normal. I checked the voltage coming from the plug to the TPS and it has 7V. My honda service manual says to hook up a test harness and check voltage but I have no idea where to get this harness. Also I sprayed carb cleaner at all vacume leak areas and no change in idle.

    Can anyone give me some advice to get this problem solved?

    thanks

  2. #2
    my turbo is bigger! revsk8erdude's Avatar
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    i had the same problem wiht both of my hondas.

    try unplugging all the air sensors and plugging them back in, and your throttle cable may need adjustment.


    its a common honda problem. no big deal really. worst thing that could happen is replacing your sensors.

    no biggie.

    rep me plz.


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    I.A's dyslexia kid Tree's Avatar
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    check the t/b gasket mine did that shit,
    Imy ruckus
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  4. #4
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
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    I've sprayed carb cleaner all over the joints and there no vacume leak. All gaskets are new they where replaced about 4 mouths ago.

    I've unplugged and replugged all sensors and no change. all connections are good and tight.

  5. #5
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    tps should be koeo .45v and 4.5v wot. if it's reading 7v something is wrong and should throw a cel. more than likely your problem.
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    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
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    7V was from the plug that plugs into the TPS. between 2 of the 3 wires.

  7. #7
    slob on my NOOB cactusEG's Avatar
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    srill not running right ?

  8. #8
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
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    Nope
    Drives great with the new motor mounts and inserts. Launches hard with vary little wheel hop due to the traction bar. But idles like hell. I got to drill out the mounting holes on my spare throttle body/TPS and see if thats fixes the idling.

  9. #9
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    if it didn't do it until you jumped it off, then its probably the tps.
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  10. #10
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    pop of the cover of the ecu and check the voltage at pin d11 and the bolt where the ecu bolts to the body. it should be .45 koeo no throttle and 4.5 koeo wot. i never check it the way you did so 7v doesn't seem right.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
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    Well shit I replaced my TB with a new/used one off a runing car and the reving up and down stoped. But when I took it back off to clean and paint it I broke the vac. fitting for the map. So I just put my old one back on While I waited for the JB weld to cure and the reving was normal. Drove it in stop and go trafic for almost 2 hours and it idled fine. Had to of been a vac. leak or a short in the wiring. Hopfully it won't come back. thanks for the help

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