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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Default little question

    So I want to go turbo. I have a B18a1. Stock internals, DC Sports Headers, Megan Racing Exhaust. Thats about all thats done to the engine. I'm thinkin about a "junkyard" set up where I take the T3 T4 off of a Volvo or Saab and then piece together the rest of the system with new stuff. My main question is this: I've been thinking about doing an LS/V-Tech and I just want to know if I would make better power out of the V-tech or the NonV-Tech engine. I know that NonV-tech has better compression for a turbo but I just wanted to see what ya'll think.

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    D0 W3RK RedEj8's Avatar
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    Ahhhh..your post gave me a headache.. Ok you dont really need VTEC to make decent numbers for boost. Vtec will help with top end power a lot since it can rev higher and the cam lift is higher. With non-vtec you wont be able to rev as high and that combined with an LS tranny you might drop out of boost when you shift. Its all up to you. All you have to do to overcome not having Vtec is turn up the boost but ususally stock honda motors dont like much past 15psi but really...its all in the tuning.You tune will determine how much hp and how reliable it will be. Also just slapping a VTEC head on a non-vtec block will not raise your compression all that much..maybe .2 points...Goodluck
    Last edited by RedEj8; 06-25-2007 at 03:17 PM.

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedEj8
    Ahhhh..your post gave me a headache.. Ok you dont really need VTEC to make decent numbers for boost. Vtec will help with top end power a lot since it can rev higher and the cam lift is higher. With non-vtec you wont be able to rev as high and that combined with an LS tranny you might drop out of boost when you shift. Its all up to you. All you have to do to overcome not having Vtec is turn up the boost but ususally stock honda motors dont like much past 15psi but really...its all in the tuning.You tune will determine how much hp and how reliable it will be. Also just slapping a VTEC head on a non-vtec block will not raise your compression all that much..maybe .2 points...Goodluck
    Thanx. I forgot to mention that I have a GSR Hydro tranny instead of the stock tranny. If I got forged internals I could run more boost right?

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    Vuong's Garage Vuongy_Dong's Avatar
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    stock LS/VTEC will not last you. The stock LS bottom end is not made to rev high as the VTEC motors. I would keep the stock LS and boost it to 9psi max on a GOOD tune. forged internals will help, thats when you want to throw on the vtec head to enjoy the benifits of the LS/Vtec.

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vuongy_Dong
    stock LS/VTEC will not last you. The stock LS bottom end is not made to rev high as the VTEC motors. I would keep the stock LS and boost it to 9psi max on a GOOD tune. forged internals will help, thats when you want to throw on the vtec head to enjoy the benifits of the LS/Vtec.
    Thanx. What kind of numbers can I expect? does anyone know? I want to shoot for 300 to 400 hp. Any other suggestions? And NO2 is not an option. Thats just cheating.

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    Vuong's Garage Vuongy_Dong's Avatar
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    300-400 is too much power for the streets. I've ran 373hp on my old integra @ 12psi, with LSD and drag radials, and it still spins at times. I would set a goal @ 300hp for street fun. thats all you need.

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    NOT BUILTED japan4racing's Avatar
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    volvos and saabs dont have t3/t4's...maybe straight t3's. and to get enough flow to make 300whp on your ls motor you are most likely gonna need more that a stock internally gated volvo turbo. becuase #1 it probably will not support that power level and #2 you would be spinning the piss out of it to make high boost to get you there....that would ruin the efficiency of the turbo. i cant tell ppl this enough...just drop 3g's on a good kit and be happy with the results. i have seen so many ppl go the cheap way only to be dissapointed with the end result when shit is breaking and/or the car is just slow. im not saying it cant be done but seriously if you spend the money right the first time you will be so happy you did.

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by japan4racing
    i cant tell ppl this enough...just drop 3g's on a good kit and be happy with the results. i have seen so many ppl go the cheap way only to be dissapointed with the end result when shit is breaking and/or the car is just slow. im not saying it cant be done but seriously if you spend the money right the first time you will be so happy you did.
    I'm seriously thinkin about it now. I had heard that some people had had some success with the "junkyard" set up, but they probably knew a hella lot more than I do about boostin.

    Whats a good kit to go with? Is a T3 T4 really the best for my application? I don't want insane power. Just enough to maybe play with a few 'vettes and smoke Mustangs.

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    NOT BUILTED japan4racing's Avatar
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    i had a drag kit on a gsr motor in a hatch last year and it went 12.9 on street tires...which is quick enoght o fuck with most lightly modded stangs and some vettes. i have hung with a vette with a high 12 second car before. you can get into the 12's on a stock motor with a turbo this size:

    http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/gat357trw48a.html

    8lbs of boost and slicks and you are there buddy..have fun

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    no volvo's have t3/4's
    house of turbo subarus...its all we'll drive

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    So now I have another question. Would I be better off if I Supercharged instead of turboed?

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    Certified Gearhead Supacharge's Avatar
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    dont supercharge it ... it will be a waste of your time and money IMO
    00 Civic Si turbo
    ls/vtec 592 whp @ 22 psi
    **RLZ ENGINEering**

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    Broke sullen's Avatar
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    if you gonna run boost, vtec is hard to make reliable power with. it takes 2 sets of MAP readings, 2 sets of tuning. its just easier to run it withiout it. my friend ran into all those problems with his D17A2 with the T25 setup. we basically disabled Vtec. set it so high that it never engaged. over redline with the turbo on there. for a B18, T3/T4 doesn't spool till way late. go get a GT25 or a t25. gt25 is better of course, will be more reliable. superchagers are for rednecks though, and the S2K. autocross cars, and straightline. downside to supercharging is gas mileage. and mustang guys will tell you all up and down they get "GREAT" gas mileage with their Jackson supercharger... they might be lucky to get like 20mpg. turbo can be driven easily and under boost. of course, without the boost, theres no power, but the gas mileage...its AWESOME. my friends D17A2 with the T25 setup, he drove that to about 2k-2.5k rpms, without the boost for the gas mileage, it got liek 40mpg. no shitting. on boost the fuel gage just kinda took a nosedive though. but it kept with the mustangs, at 170whp... does that say anything to you? mustangs aren't all that fast anyways. now....bikes are another matter. those things are geared to do like 75 in 1st gear... if you wanna go the fast route, go buy yourself a bike. 1000cc. turbo setups can be done to be extremely fast, but the bikes come that way... or if you wanna embarass some dickhead, buy a shifter kart. like 400cc motorcycle motor, or 600cc motorcycle motor.....go get the 160mph mark on the interstate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sullen
    if you gonna run boost, vtec is hard to make reliable power with. it takes 2 sets of MAP readings, 2 sets of tuning. its just easier to run it withiout it. my friend ran into all those problems with his D17A2 with the T25 setup. we basically disabled Vtec. set it so high that it never engaged. over redline with the turbo on there. for a B18, T3/T4 doesn't spool till way late. go get a GT25 or a t25. gt25 is better of course, will be more reliable. superchagers are for rednecks though, and the S2K. autocross cars, and straightline. downside to supercharging is gas mileage. and mustang guys will tell you all up and down they get "GREAT" gas mileage with their Jackson supercharger... they might be lucky to get like 20mpg. turbo can be driven easily and under boost. of course, without the boost, theres no power, but the gas mileage...its AWESOME. my friends D17A2 with the T25 setup, he drove that to about 2k-2.5k rpms, without the boost for the gas mileage, it got liek 40mpg. no shitting. on boost the fuel gage just kinda took a nosedive though. but it kept with the mustangs, at 170whp... does that say anything to you? mustangs aren't all that fast anyways. now....bikes are another matter. those things are geared to do like 75 in 1st gear... if you wanna go the fast route, go buy yourself a bike. 1000cc. turbo setups can be done to be extremely fast, but the bikes come that way... or if you wanna embarass some dickhead, buy a shifter kart. like 400cc motorcycle motor, or 600cc motorcycle motor.....go get the 160mph mark on the interstate.
    00 Civic Si turbo
    ls/vtec 592 whp @ 22 psi
    **RLZ ENGINEering**

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    Quote Originally Posted by sullen
    if you gonna run boost, vtec is hard to make reliable power with. it takes 2 sets of MAP readings, 2 sets of tuning. its just easier to run it withiout it. my friend ran into all those problems with his D17A2 with the T25 setup. we basically disabled Vtec. set it so high that it never engaged. over redline with the turbo on there. for a B18, T3/T4 doesn't spool till way late. go get a GT25 or a t25. gt25 is better of course, will be more reliable. superchagers are for rednecks though, and the S2K. autocross cars, and straightline. downside to supercharging is gas mileage. and mustang guys will tell you all up and down they get "GREAT" gas mileage with their Jackson supercharger... they might be lucky to get like 20mpg. turbo can be driven easily and under boost. of course, without the boost, theres no power, but the gas mileage...its AWESOME. my friends D17A2 with the T25 setup, he drove that to about 2k-2.5k rpms, without the boost for the gas mileage, it got liek 40mpg. no shitting. on boost the fuel gage just kinda took a nosedive though. but it kept with the mustangs, at 170whp... does that say anything to you? mustangs aren't all that fast anyways. now....bikes are another matter. those things are geared to do like 75 in 1st gear... if you wanna go the fast route, go buy yourself a bike. 1000cc. turbo setups can be done to be extremely fast, but the bikes come that way... or if you wanna embarass some dickhead, buy a shifter kart. like 400cc motorcycle motor, or 600cc motorcycle motor.....go get the 160mph mark on the interstate.
    wha????
    MAINSTREAM PERFORMANCE & DIGITAL BOX TUNING
    ECU CHIPPING/SOCKETING/TUNING-HONDATA, CROME, BRE, TURBOEDIT
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    LOL

    The EMPIRE

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    Certified Gearhead miro_gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sullen
    if you gonna run boost, vtec is hard to make reliable power with. it takes 2 sets of MAP readings, 2 sets of tuning. its just easier to run it withiout it. my friend ran into all those problems with his D17A2 with the T25 setup. we basically disabled Vtec. set it so high that it never engaged. over redline with the turbo on there. for a B18, T3/T4 doesn't spool till way late. go get a GT25 or a t25. gt25 is better of course, will be more reliable. superchagers are for rednecks though, and the S2K. autocross cars, and straightline. downside to supercharging is gas mileage. and mustang guys will tell you all up and down they get "GREAT" gas mileage with their Jackson supercharger... they might be lucky to get like 20mpg. turbo can be driven easily and under boost. of course, without the boost, theres no power, but the gas mileage...its AWESOME. my friends D17A2 with the T25 setup, he drove that to about 2k-2.5k rpms, without the boost for the gas mileage, it got liek 40mpg. no shitting. on boost the fuel gage just kinda took a nosedive though. but it kept with the mustangs, at 170whp... does that say anything to you? mustangs aren't all that fast anyways. now....bikes are another matter. those things are geared to do like 75 in 1st gear... if you wanna go the fast route, go buy yourself a bike. 1000cc. turbo setups can be done to be extremely fast, but the bikes come that way... or if you wanna embarass some dickhead, buy a shifter kart. like 400cc motorcycle motor, or 600cc motorcycle motor.....go get the 160mph mark on the interstate.
    That you don't know shit is fine, but please don't post anymore .. that just causes internet traffic.

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    if your going to go boost...do it right. Pull the engine out. Keep the stock block. put forged internals in it (obviously), port an polish your stock head maybe do a valve job and cams and gears. I would keep the stock non vtec head.

    once you get the forged internals, it doesn't mean you have to run 20 psi, but you have the security that your motor will be able to handle almost anything u give it.

    plus when u yank the motor you will have all brand new gaskets, and nice clean engine and not some worn out, leaking, dirty motor.
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRYMY4.0
    if your going to go boost...do it right. Pull the engine out. Keep the stock block. put forged internals in it (obviously), port an polish your stock head maybe do a valve job and cams and gears. I would keep the stock non vtec head.

    once you get the forged internals, it doesn't mean you have to run 20 psi, but you have the security that your motor will be able to handle almost anything u give it.

    plus when u yank the motor you will have all brand new gaskets, and nice clean engine and not some worn out, leaking, dirty motor.
    That was kinda my plan. I have an extra head that just needs the valves replaced, and I was gonna have it ported and polished anyway. I just need to find another block to stick it on cause I dont have another car to drive while mine sits in pieces for a few days.

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    I've got a job... Killer's Avatar
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    before you do anything i would get that block checked out man...

    it is still burning oil isn't it?

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killer
    before you do anything i would get that block checked out man...

    it is still burning oil isn't it?

    if he replaces everything...it won't burn oil anymore (if he gets it bored and the proper pistons and rings) unless the cylinder walls are too messed up for boring (which i highly doubt)
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killer
    before you do anything i would get that block checked out man...

    it is still burning oil isn't it?
    Yeah. It still burns a little, but I think its just a gasket problem. It'll be a while b/f I can do anything so I'll have time to have time to do more research so I can do it right.

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    I've got a job... Killer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nissangeek
    Yeah. It still burns a little, but I think its just a gasket problem. It'll be a while b/f I can do anything so I'll have time to have time to do more research so I can do it right.
    cool... i miss it

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    I'm still lovin it. I do need to replace the fuel filter though but thats like $5 and five minutes.

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    I've got a job... Killer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nissangeek
    I'm still lovin it. I do need to replace the fuel filter though but thats like $5 and five minutes.
    fuel filter is like brand new... was put on maybe a month before you got it.. if that..

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nissangeek
    Yeah. It still burns a little, but I think its just a gasket problem. It'll be a while b/f I can do anything so I'll have time to have time to do more research so I can do it right.

    buring oil would be a piston ring problem. not gasket. A leak problem would deal with gaskets.

    it looks like u bought the motor/car from Killer?
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRYMY4.0
    buring oil would be a piston ring problem. not gasket. A leak problem would deal with gaskets.

    it looks like u bought the motor/car from Killer?
    yup.How do you change piston rings?

    Quote Originally Posted by Killer
    fuel filter is like brand new... was put on maybe a month before you got it.. if that..
    Must be the fuel pressure regulator then. My friend who is the Honda guru said it could be either one.

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    I've got a job... Killer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nissangeek
    Must be the fuel pressure regulator then. My friend who is the Honda guru said it could be either one.
    what's going on with it???

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    Its not fuel pressure regulating. lol. No really. It does this thing where it will start and then bogg down till it cuts off but if I tinker with it a bit and hold the throttle open a little when I start it, it starts up fine. It only does it every so often though.

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    I've got a job... Killer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nissangeek
    Its not fuel pressure regulating. lol. No really. It does this thing where it will start and then bogg down till it cuts off but if I tinker with it a bit and hold the throttle open a little when I start it, it starts up fine. It only does it every so often though.

    dude, i feel like shit that you keep running into these problems! i fixed so much on that car...

    try running some fuel line cleaner through it... check the fuel rail and injectors.... when the head was replaced one of the o-rings on the injectors was ripped but i replaced it... (i hate idiot mechanics)

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    Certified Gearhead Nissangeek's Avatar
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    I've checked it all out and thats the only thing I can come up with. It's a cheap and easy fix though so no biggy. I even took the intake off to see if it was clogged and it wasnt getting any air but that wasnt it.

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