i'm planning on a p28 ecu... hondata maybe??
i'm planning on a p28 ecu... hondata maybe??
I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.
Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!
good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.
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you mean can't use the same head studs right?Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.
Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!
good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.
Axels are a completely unneccesary item in there. The OEM fuel pump on an NA setup should be fine but an upgrade to a bigger OEM injector, such as Prelude injectors will help keep duty cycles where they need to be. FPR is also an unneccesary item. Definately run ARP rod and head bolts but if nothing else definately the rod bolts. That is the weakest link in the OEM rod setup is the bolts. I have run OEM rods with ARP bolts in a B16 to 10,000 rpm with no problem.I'm building a poor man's type r right now, and the best info I can give you is to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. When you think this stuff out in your head it seems easy...
"all I need is a b16 head, and a gsr block!"
Then you really get down to business, you gotta get the head check and possibly surfaced. While it's out you might as well replace the valve seals, then the blcok has to be honed and or bored. They since it's bare, you gotta get new main & rod bearings, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts. AFTER ALL THIS, you can use the same head studs, so you go with arp... Then you find out about how much power you'll be putting down so you get larger injectors, fuel pressure regulator, type r oil pump, and fuel pump. After all that, you still might as well get new axels. After you've checked and double checked all the things that could possibly be needed, you've got to break it in lke a brand new motor, so that means changing the oil atleast 3 times before 1000 miles. Plus you;ve got to get it tuned.
Basically what I'm trying to say is, BE PATIENT!
good luck. hit me up and maybe we can help each other out.
Thanks 99SI, you really seem to konw what you are talking about. The reason I had to get new axels is beacause the setup I haf in my hatch before pretty much killed both of the boots, so I just decided to get new ones. And I was told that the fuel pressure regulator would help with the larger injectors, but since I already have chrome, will it even be nessesary???
And, oh, while i'm at it. I need to know of someone who can tune my car for a decent price. i was tuned when It was a full gsr with itr springs, cams, and pistons, but I have a feeling I need to get it tuned again.
Hey scttydb411, do you tune???
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Yes, Scttydb411 does tune. He is the one who always tuned my car. Also, I was just pointing out that UPGRADED axles aren't neccesary in an NA car, even a fully built one. OEM is fine. FPR is not really neccessary as long as you are getting tuned with crome, not IMO anyway.Thanks 99SI, you really seem to konw what you are talking about. The reason I had to get new axels is beacause the setup I haf in my hatch before pretty much killed both of the boots, so I just decided to get new ones. And I was told that the fuel pressure regulator would help with the larger injectors, but since I already have chrome, will it even be nessesary???
And, oh, while i'm at it. I need to know of someone who can tune my car for a decent price. i was tuned when It was a full gsr with itr springs, cams, and pistons, but I have a feeling I need to get it tuned again.
Hey scttydb411, do you tune???
Kool beans. I guess I have a fuel pressure regulator, never been used, for sale !
How much do you think it'll run me to get my car fully tuned.
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I really enjoyed the chipped P28 running crome or uberdata. I like it just as much as Hondata. If you are going to be running NA then I don't see the benefit of spending the extra money on a HOndata setup when you can do it much cheaper with most all of the same features with the chipped P28. Definately contact Scotty^^^^ @digitalboxtuning for more info on that.
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