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Thread: Changing brake pads on an EVO

  1. #1
    IA's official battery rep gtikid's Avatar
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    Default Changing brake pads on an EVO

    Do I need a key to push the piston back in, or will a C-clamp work?

    Reps given for help or link to a write-up

    FUCK GRAN TURISMO EAST!! NEVER TAKE YOUR CAR THERE, ESPECIALLY NOT FOR AN ALIGNMENT!! TERRIBLE BUSINESS!!

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    Certified Gearhead TonyRSX's Avatar
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    yessssss....nooooooooooo....

    hell if i know...

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    NalleyToyota Manager ct9a gsr's Avatar
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    c-clamp works... just use some padding so you don't put an indention into your caliper
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    drives a beat up 626 blackshine007's Avatar
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    I don't like using C clamps on multi piston set ups. You push one in, another one comes out. The quick and easy way to do it is to open the bleeder screw, but make sure you have a hose on the end. Put the hose into a bottle and pry back on the old pad. You'll notice that the pistons on the calipers will go back alot quicker. After the pistons are set all the way back, let the bleeder line stay open until a steady stream of fluid starts to come out. Close the bleeder screw. if you want to, you can reuse the fluid. I would recommend buying new DOT 4 brake fluid being that over time constant braking can contribute to moisture in the lines, which leads to softer brake pedal feel, which ultimately leads to longer stops. After the pistons are all the way back, then go ahead and take the clips off the retainer pins and replace the pads. I hope this helps.

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    drives a beat up 626 blackshine007's Avatar
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    No response back on this brake question? I hope gtikid didn't go back on his word. He's made about at least 30 posts since I posted this, what's up man?

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    with the brembos...4 piston calipers right? i believe a special tool is needed...but there are always ways to bootleg shit. i'm brakes like that...i'd buy the nice tool
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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    drives a beat up 626 blackshine007's Avatar
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    With brembos? Nah, no special tool. Some of them (depending on the application run phenolic calipers, others I've seen are just straight aluminum. Either way, you don't wanna use any C clamps.

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    I hate drifting Big Baller's Avatar
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    Fuck you guys make shit harder than it has to be. Listen....put a prybar between the rotor and the brake pad, now pry it so that it pushes the pistons back on one side. Now take that pad out and install the new pad. Now repeat process on the other side of the caliper. Yes its really that easy, you don't need any special tools and anyone who tells you that its any harder than that is stupid.

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    drives a beat up 626 blackshine007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Baller
    Fuck you guys make shit harder than it has to be. Listen....put a prybar between the rotor and the brake pad, now pry it so that it pushes the pistons back on one side. Now take that pad out and install the new pad. Now repeat process on the other side of the caliper. Yes its really that easy, you don't need any special tools and anyone who tells you that its any harder than that is stupid.

    Matt
    That's basicly what I said in a nutshell. Without a bleeder screw open prying back on the pad, some cars with ABS don't like that causing the light to come on, or even worse, an air pocket getting stuck in the system causing a spongy pedal. Some cars you can get away with doing that. Others, open the bleeder screw to prevent a headache

    K series 626. That's right. It's got a K in it.

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    evom- nice write up

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