Would i be SAFE for boost with just certain parts?

[teh_mugen18]

what if i were to only install new forged pistons, piston rings, new headgasket, ARP head studs, valve springs, adjustable cams and Crower Stage 2 cam gears, but have everything else stay OEM, would it be safe to boost and daily drive my B18A1 on ~9 - 12psi?
(naturally, the fuel upgrades will come along too...:rolleyes:)

Also, would it be cool to install those parts and run on them without boost for a little while until i could get a turbo kit together?

[MIKE.P]

if your going to do pistons why not do the rods while your there?!?!

[teh_mugen18]

cuz the build budget im on wont allow for all of it AT ONCE...:(

[jew_boy]

i got a stock gsr with 7 psi and it's running perfect no smoke at all best it ever been

[blackshine007]

Mike P makes a great point. There's no need for just doing pistons since you'd have to go into the engine anyways. Unless you like S shaped rods from a boost spike you had no clue was gonna happen. How about pistons and rods w/ the arp head studs and copper head gasket and come back for the rest of that later on? It don't take long to swap the cams/valve springs out vs. taking apart the bottom end to only swap the rods which means taking the head off yet again to remove the pistons. That's what I'd do.

[allmotorX]

Mike P makes a great point. There's no need for just doing pistons since you'd have to go into the engine anyways. Unless you like S shaped rods from a boost spike you had no clue was gonna happen. How about pistons and rods w/ the arp head studs and copper head gasket and come back for the rest of that later on? It don't take long to swap the cams/valve springs out vs. taking apart the bottom end to only swap the rods which means taking the head off yet again to remove the pistons. That's what I'd do.always got a solution huh

[teh_mugen18]

always got a solution huh

lol, it actually sounds pretty good to me:goodjob:

[khaxnguyen]

you're going to tune it right?? hopefully u do.. people run stock with boost... the good ones have a tune in their history

[blackshine007]

always got a solution huh
Damn skippy :tongue1:

[SiRed94]

yeah man... just leave the bottom end alone until you have the money to do it all at once... because you will end up just double working yourself... plus you will have to balance the bottom end for the pistons and then go back and re-balance it after you get the rods.... but yes, it is ok to drive the car without boost with forged internals, in fact I would recommend it during the break-in period and then put on the boost and switch to synthetic oil afterwards... I would just get the money up for the turbo kit, put that on and run that on stock internals until you get tired of it and then save up the money and build the bottom end when you can... but just don't start putting parts on the car until you have everything for what you are doing....

[scttydb411]

if you're only going to run 9psi you can boost first...my stock internaled single-cam non-vtec just hit the 5 year mark running 9-11psi. if you're going to spend the time opening up the motor go rods, pistons, headstuds. nix the cams, springs/ret, and cam gears until later when you do some head work and really up the boost.

tuning should def be in any budget you do.

[teh_mugen18]

So, i can really run boost DAILY DRIVING, safely?? 9 psi? NO internals?? 100% stock??

lol thats a concept i just cant seem to get through my head for some reason:D :thinking:

Plus, i think my motor needs to be rebuilt anyways because when i was on the dyno and they pushed it toward the redline, a lottta white smoke started flying out my pipe. Also, the fact that it only pushed MAX 96.8 whp makes me think it needs a rebuild too.

[blackshine007]

^^Yes. It's very do-able. Just make sure you tune it or your engine will make soup of itself.

[teh_mugen18]

^^Yes. It's very do-able. Just make sure you tune it or your engine will make soup of itself.

Now thats always what ive been somewhat confused about too..

If i were to install the turbo myself, AT my house, how would i get it to the shop? Would it be somewhat safe to drive it over there without a tune or how would i do that part of it?

[Revmaynard]

That's fine, you can drive without it being tuned, it's just better to be tuned when boosting so you know everything is working together correctly.

[Kaiser]

That's fine, you can drive without it being tuned, it's just better to be tuned when boosting so you know everything is working together correctly.

You can also just read the boost meter (You will install a meter, right?) and keep it below 1-2psi the entire trip to the shop.

[xlilvi3tx]

block now, head later and get a good tune. block is what u really have to worry about if u boost.

[white_rice]

if you cant afford why not just save up to do the whole thing at once?

[teh_mugen18]

You can also just read the boost meter (You will install a meter, right?) and keep it below 1-2psi the entire trip to the shop.

yeah im gonna install one:D

[EK Hotch]

You can also take the spring out of the wastegate if it is external or disconnect the wastegate actuator arm if it is internally wastegated to keep the turbo from boosting.

[Kaiser]

You can also take the spring out of the wastegate if it is external or disconnect the wastegate actuator arm if it is internally wastegated to keep the turbo from boosting.

Yeah. Or you could just drive like Grandma and not have to worry about fiddling with your wastegate at all. I'm just sayin'.

[AnthonyF]

cuz the build budget im on wont allow for all of it AT ONCE...:(take it from me. If you have everything already disassembled, do it right the first time. Take your time, get all the correct parts. It'll save you a lot of headaches in the long run. 2nd, you can boost on the stock componets. Juust tone it down to like 6psi.