amp question
i am a noob when it comes to systems, but i understand that JL audio is extremely good and i'm interested in getting just one w7 (not sure what size yet but possibly a 10 or 12?). i'm on a budget and was wondering what the cheapest amp i can get for it, but is also reliable.
hmm... okay. well i have a precisionpower 4 channel 600 watt amp. what kind of JL subs would be good with that?
the specs on my amp: http://www.precisionpower.com/amps/dcx600-4.asp
can anyone tell me if it would be enough for 2 w3v2?
JL 500/1 ... its worth the money ... from what i hear Ebay sells everything cheap
JL amps are nice, but not worth the money.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=475
this amp would work great with either sub.
hmmm.. i dont really plan on getting a different amp. just wondering if my 4 channel 600 watt would be enough for 2 w3v2's?
yes it would be a good match for 2 12W3v2d2 subs
awesome. thanks man.
You should get some w1's or w0's. That amp isnt going to push w3's well at all. Or look at other subs, like the kicker comps.
Originally Posted by blackboi50
white power!!!!!!.....1
please explain
12w3v2d2 is dual 2 ohm. Wire them in series to a 4 ohm load and put one per bridged channel of the amp.
how is that not going to work well?
get a 500/1 and 2 -12w3v2's that will sound great and not be that bad money wise
Leisa and Val May You Rest In Peace!
362 WHP
401 WTQ NO NITROUS
We got two 10's JL AUDIO w1 v2 and they sound good so i recommend that u get 2 12'' jL w3v2 with macthing Amp and you be in the game .... beating down the block
not to offend anyone else, but i've read BanginJimmy's past replys on other threads and it seems like he knows what he is talkin about. but i dont understand when u say "Wire them in series to a 4 ohm load and put one per bridged channel of the amp." can u explain it to me?
the model number I stated is for the w3v2 with dual 2 ohm coils. wire each of those in series to a 4 ohm load. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
then bridge them to the amp. bridging means your drawing power from 2 channels to make one stronger channel. I cant find a picture of it right now, but look on the amp, it should have a digram on the speaker connestions to show you how to bridge it. If not then check the manual that came with the amp. It will have it in there.
If you ahve any other questions feel free to PM me or just post up, I'll check back on here in a couple hours.
Last edited by BanginJimmy; 01-05-2006 at 10:01 PM.
hmm... haha yea i'm still pretty lost, but i somewhat understand the 'bridging' concept and all. well if 2 w3v2 duel 2 ohm will work i guess i should go with that? unless u have any other suggestions?
run with 2 12w3v2d2 subs, you wont be disappointed.
sorry. another quick question i was confused about. my amp says for a mono operation it's 300Wx2 @ 4 ohm. so wouldnt that mean each sub would have to be a 4ohm also? or is that why im bridging it?
yes it does mean that the subs will have to be at 4 ohms. That is why they are wired in series first.
ohhh icic. ok got it now. thanks!
can i have someone's opinion on this: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=3027. i am in desprite need for a very very cheap amp for a 10" w3v2 and i do not have much money at all. just wondering if it would just be a complete waste to get this or if it would atleast last me for a decent amount of time.
by specs it doesnt look all that bad, but I say save your money for another month or so and get something better. You get what you pay for.
oh ok. what would u recommend that's cheap but reliable?
Well the w3v2 only needs 300watts. I would just pick one of these up: http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2280 cheaper then the DUB nonsense, and clean quality DEI power
wow that looks like an awesome deal. any other suggestions?
ok after much contimplating, i decided to just go with a 10" polk audio momo MM2104DVC (http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/mm2104dvc/). i read about it and it says it recommends a 2 ohm stable mono amp (rms 300, peak 600) but im just a little unsure of what amp would be good for it. and again, im looking for something at a very low price but reliable.
The same directed amp i posted above would be perfect (350D), trust me its cheap as hell, but DEI makes solid amps
If you ask me JL Audio is over rated and over priced. I have a Pioneer Premier TS-W3004SPL which is basically the same as a W6 or W7 except I got it off ebay for $130 and I have an MTX Thunder 6500D amp which puts outs 775 watts at 2ohms. I only paid $160 for the amp off ebay. So if you ask me, JL Audio is a waste of money.
you have NO clue what you are talking about. The W7 in a proper enclosure will be louder the the w3000, and MTX amps are ok, but its a dirty power. Not nearly as clean as a JL amp.
yeah but it's about $800 cheaper
I guess if all you want is cheaper than their are a thousand differnt ways to go. Some people are more discriminating in their tastes.
ok ive got another newbie question. i just hooked up 1 polk mm2104dvc sub (http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mm2104dvc/) to 1 polk c300.2 amp (http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/c300_2/). i hooked it up all myself (which i dont know if it was a smart move or not) and it came out working fine, but as i was testing things out, i noticed that when i turned my bass all the way up, and turned the volume up to about 19-20 (35 is max) the sub would just like stop hitting and would take a second or two to start hitting again when it was supposed to. so pretty much, when i turn the volume up to high, the sub sort of dies real quick. im not sure what it is. maybe my sub just cant handle all that or the amp isnt pushing out enough powr or what. i would appreciate any suggestions. thanks.
first off turn your bass control down to 3/4 up and turn off any bass boost that may be on.
Next check your grounds on the amp. I could be a bad ground and the amp cant draw enough power and is going into low voltage protect.
oh ic. ok thanks. just wanted to make sure i didnt screw up the equipment.
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