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Thread: b16a ef electrical problem

  1. #1
    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    Default b16a ef electrical problem

    I need some help please. I have tried everything I can thin of and I need some other input.
    Alright, from the top..my buddie has a 91 std hatch that he swapped a b16a into it. It ran fine prior to the swap. he wanted me to do the wiring. I left it OBD0, did the dpfi to mpfi comversion...(everywhere i read, it said that pins B10 and B12 are supposed to be empty, but b10 had a white/red wire in it..I cut B10 wire and ran it to the disrtibutor), wired the obd0 b16 distributor to his old plug and added the crank angle sensor wires. All he has for an ecu at the moment is a pr4(obd0 ls ecu). I got every thing ready to test start, and there was no fuel pressure. I turned it over and there was no spark but the coil had 12.4x volts. coil also had proper ohms. I hooked my noid light to the injector and got no pulse. I checked all the grounds and they are good. The main relay was not cliking when i turned the key but it has constant 12v. I jumped 12v to the trigger wire on the relay, it clicked, and BAM! I got spark. Sprayed some gas in the intake, turned the engine over and she runs as long as i keep power on the relay and spray gas in the intake, but sill no fuel pressure nor anything from my injector noid light. It's like the ecu isn't getting power or ground. I swapped the the main relay and rechecked all the fuses but same thing...no fuel pressure, no injector pulse, no spark unless I jump power to the main relay. His tps is getting 1.xx volts on the power wire!?! I'm banging my head and this guy needs a car yesterday.
    Any ideas?
    thanks a bunch...Taylor
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    I'm afraid that when I go to sleep tonight, I'm going to have a nightmare about being strangled by Honda oem wires. Please someone help me...I dont want to die in my dreams tonight.
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    Does the cel come on when you turn the key on?
    Do you get power to the ecu? when you turn the key on does the light on the ecu blink once? Are you using the original motor harness?

    I had something like this happen to me years ago.
    It turned out to be a pinched wire grounding out.

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    you said it's LIKE the ecu isnt getting power or ground, have you check to see if it was? (that part was kind of vague, you said you checked the grounds)

    have you rechecked your dpfi to mpfi wiring? im not sure if your post is a little vague about it, or if you wired the crank angle sensor wires improperly.

    do the injectors have power or are they getting a pulsed ground signal?

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    Yes the cel comes on and stays on, but the led on the ecu doesn't come on if I don't jump the main relay. If I DO jump the main relay, the main relay itself clicks once, the cel AND the led on the ecu comes on for about 2 seconds, then the main relay clicks again and the cel and the led on the ecu turns off...so if I send power to the trigger wire on the main relay, Yes the ecu gets power. This is the stock wiring harness that came on the single cam.
    I think it could definatley be a wire that has been pinched and grounding itself out. About how long is the led in the ecu supposed to stay lit up?
    Quote Originally Posted by 1flysi
    Does the cel come on when you turn the key on?
    Do you get power to the ecu? when you turn the key on does the light on the ecu blink once? Are you using the original motor harness?

    I had something like this happen to me years ago.
    It turned out to be a pinched wire grounding out.
    Last edited by EK Hotch; 03-18-2008 at 09:43 AM.
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    I haven't probed the ecu to check for power yet because i don't know which ones are supposed to be 12v+(i can't find my dam ef tech-book!!). But it is getting some kind of power if I jump 12v+ to the trigger terminal on the main relay because the red led in the ecu lights for about 2 seconds and I regain spark but no 12v+ to the injectors(I checked before and after the resistor pack) nor do the injectors get grounded out by the ecu and still no power to the fuel pump...so no power or pulse to the injectors. I checked my noid light on my car to make sure it was working & it is fine.
    I double and triple and quadruple checked all of the wires that i ran(2 for injector #2 & #4 and 2 more for the crank angle sensor) into the engine bay and all of my connections on the ecu harness. Everything is soldered and heat shrinked.
    I have done a decent amount of wiring before, but this thing.....man it has got me lost.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2rotor
    you said it's LIKE the ecu isnt getting power or ground, have you check to see if it was? (that part was kind of vague, you said you checked the grounds)

    have you rechecked your dpfi to mpfi wiring? im not sure if your post is a little vague about it, or if you wired the crank angle sensor wires improperly.

    do the injectors have power or are they getting a pulsed ground signal?
    Last edited by EK Hotch; 03-18-2008 at 09:37 AM.
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    hey 1flysi, which wire was pinched?
    Swamp

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    Accord->Evo EmminoDaGreat's Avatar
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    We can fix it, 678-567-9384.

    The EMPIRE

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    I already told him that yall could do it faster than i can, but he said that he doesn't have enough $. I have faith that I can get going....eventually.
    Swamp

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    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    Sorry i re-read it and my answer didn't help you any
    Last edited by green91; 03-19-2008 at 03:41 PM.

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    ALRIGHT!!! I got it running yesterday. It was the alternator fuse...seemed kinda strange, but the wiring schematics says 12v+ goes from the key switch, through the alternator fuse, to the main relay, and then to the ecu. It was running pretty good at first(cel is on) and it drove decent, but I shut it off to make a throttle cabe bracket and to fix the codes and now it will not rev past 3,000ish!? I didn't change anything except for the throttle bracket. I got the distributor without any plugs on it, so I had to match and solder the old faded-out wires to another plug. The codes are crank angle sensor(4), tdc position sensor(8), and cylinder no.1 position sensor(9). I re-checked the connections i made at the distributor, but like I said..these wires are really faded out.
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    The square plug on the car's harness has each of the sensors for the dizzy are in pairs one above the other. kinda like this:
    crank angle. .tdc position
    crank angle. .tdc position
    ?.
    and where the wires go through rubber grommet on my obd0 ls dizzy I have laying around, the the sensor are in pairs side by side. kinda like this:
    tdc. .tdc
    ca. .ca .?
    cyl. .cyl
    With that being said, I should be able to line them up, right?
    Swamp

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    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    Scratch that last idea. I took the distributor apart and the wires arent in the same position between the obd0 ls and obd0 b16 distributor. It's running fine now, I just had it take it apart to find what wires were for what sensor, and the wire colors didn't match up. Maybe it was an aftermarket dizzy...
    Swamp

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