PAINT problem...

[Ronsam2006]

Guys, here is the problem,
I have very little knowledge of paint and im trying to spray paint a car part.

I know it will probably work better or cheaper by taking the part somewhere to get it professionally painted, but I want to do this on my own. I am somewhat of an artist..so I like painting stuff. Its a pride thing.

I am spray painting a stock spoiler of a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI BLACK

1st and only Attempt so far:
Parts
1. Krylon Plastic (no sanding, no primer required) spray paint.
2. 300 grit sandpaper
3. Sanding block

I sanded it down really well (couple of hours) and then applied multiple thin coats of this Krylon spray paint and let time to dry and all that. It didnt look that great as it had a flat black appearance to it....., so when I go to put it on the car...I get a small scratch from a fingernail. I was like FU*K...all that work and paint that didn't even last for ten minutes.

Then I asked a buddy who is a professional painter....mainly known on IA for painting high quality rims and engine covers. He said the best spray paint option is to use Duplicolor Truck, Van and SUV paint, then clear coat it and then sand with high (like 1000) grit paper. Another friend suggested using good finishing compound after the painting is done. I really just want a decent lasting, glossy black finish...but there are so many spray paints out there..I dont want to waste a sh1t load of money.

Can someone please guide me....REPS and appreciation will definitely be added.. Thanks

[SLOWR/T]

just take that sh!t to Superstar Customs and pay to have if done right.

[bandydesign]

Let me preface with the fact that I dont have any experience with painting notably.

I don't believe it is the quality of the paint so much as the technique of the painter. Numerous thin coats of color and clear with superfine wetsanding in between delivers factory paint quality. Some modern cars have near 15 coats of paint, many of which are clear. I believe taking your time is your key to success with a never ending sanding phase. G/L, I apologize if my info is incorrect or not useful.

[Ronsam2006]

just take that sh!t to Superstar Customs and pay to have if done right.

That is my last option...but I really want to see how close I can get doing this in my own garage. I love using elbow grease

[Ronsam2006]

Let me preface with the fact that I dont have any experience with painting notably.

I don't believe it is the quality of the paint so much as the technique of the painter. Numerous thin coats of color and clear with superfine wetsanding in between delivers factory paint quality. Some modern cars have near 15 coats of paint, many of which are clear. I believe taking your time is your key to success with a never ending sanding phase. G/L, I apologize if my info is incorrect or not useful.

I think what you are saying makes perfect sense. Someone suggested that to me...I mean it does take a while to do so. Someone else also said that it is the way it is being applied...that is...spray can paint, spray gun, etc. Have you ever tried this technique on anything, im asking to see result quality?

[The BUCKY]

ok man. get the paint i told you. get a can of grey high build primer. a can of black truck and van stuff and can of the same clear. you can get all 3 at the parts store. spray the primer on in moderate coats. take a sheet of 1000 grit and wet sand it smooth. lay down moderate coats of black paint. dont dust it no need takes to long. but dont lay it on super thick either. once its covered well spray the clear on. do a light coat first. let it get tacky then do a couple thick coats. if you do it right you prob wont have to buff it. i have never tried to buff a spray can clear so i dont know how it would work but i promise you it will be more trouble than a spray can paint job is worth.

[Ronsam2006]

ok man. get the paint i told you. get a can of grey high build primer. a can of black truck and van stuff and can of the same clear. you can get all 3 at the parts store. spray the primer on in moderate coats. take a sheet of 1000 grit and wet sand it smooth. lay down moderate coats of black paint. dont dust it no need takes to long. but dont lay it on super thick either. once its covered well spray the clear on. do a light coat first. let it get tacky then do a couple thick coats. if you do it right you prob wont have to buff it. i have never tried to buff a spray can clear so i dont know how it would work but i promise you it will be more trouble than a spray can paint job is worth.

Thanks a lot man. I dont want it to look too good either, the paint including the black top on my car is fading. But one more thing...should I use some finishing compound after that?

[JessAlba452]

Okay here is a quiiiick how-to. Lots of elbow grease just as a warning.

Make sure your surface has been sanded or at least scuffed up. For plastics I prefer 600 grit, for metal 400grit is fine.

Use a primer first this will help the paint adhere to something.

Then sand the primer smooth with 600 grit.

Paint with color (Preferably Duplicolor)

Spray on lightly and let dry. Do this a few times until you achieve a good durable layer.

Clear coat using the same "type" of clear. Don't mix paints like laquer and enamel, or you will end up with wrinkled paint.

Same technique light layers, until a nice coat is built up. Make sure that it is at least 4-5 layers to protect it.

Sand the clear with 600 and move on to...800>1000>1500>2000. Be sure not to cut through the clear and into the color coat. Then go ahead and take a rubbing compound and work at it. After that use a Polishing Compound. If you want you can wax it, but let the paint cure at least a few weeks before you do.

If you need any help you can contact me. I can show you how to do it if it will help.

Here is something I did for a friend of mine to show you how it will look.

Working on the last stage clearcoat sanded and working on rubbing + polishing compound to bring out color.




Finished product.

[Ronsam2006]

Okay here is a quiiiick how-to. Lots of elbow grease just as a warning.

Make sure your surface has been sanded or at least scuffed up. For plastics I prefer 600 grit, for metal 400grit is fine.

Use a primer first this will help the paint adhere to something.

Then sand the primer smooth with 600 grit.

Paint with color (Preferably Duplicolor)

Spray on lightly and let dry. Do this a few times until you achieve a good durable layer.

Clear coat using the same "type" of clear. Don't mix paints like laquer and enamel, or you will end up with wrinkled paint.

Same technique light layers, until a nice coat is built up. Make sure that it is at least 4-5 layers to protect it.

Sand the clear with 600 and move on to...800>1000>1500>2000. Be sure not to cut through the clear and into the color coat. Then go ahead and take a rubbing compound and work at it. After that use a Polishing Compound. If you want you can wax it, but let the paint cure at least a few weeks before you do.

If you need any help you can contact me. I can show you how to do it if it will help.

Here is something I did for a friend of mine to show you how it will look.

Working on the last stage clearcoat sanded and working on rubbing + polishing compound to bring out color.




Finished product.

Wow that really turned out well...I sent you a PM.

[The BUCKY]

lol spray paint ftl

[JessAlba452]

Your PM has been replied.

[boostedb16]

buy a gun and automotive paint and do it right. you said your top was faded so the gun would come in handy later.

[JessAlba452]

buy a gun and automotive paint and do it right. you said your top was faded so the gun would come in handy later.

Don't forget he'd also need an air compressor lol Bit on the expensive side if you plan to only do one thing. But if you're doing a whole car it's worth it.

[QuickBrick]

Just curious Bucky, does the primer have an adhesive promoter? Not knowing the material he’s shooting on (heck could be a metal spoiler) I think might help if plastic, fiber glass or gel coat based. Also would you suggest giving the part rough sand (say 220) before premiering?

Keep in mind I haven’t shot a complete car in 25 years and the materials/prep I used back in that day are far from what is used now, so in no way am I arguing your suggestions…

Tom

[The BUCKY]

well the thing is i have told the guy the same thing like 3 times. i also told him that i could paint it for $100 with real paint if he came and helped a bit. then he would know what to do in the future if he decided to take the project on. he is prob gonna have like $40-$50 in the project with spray paint if he keeps redoing it.


but yes he should prep it before with 400. spray can primer wont fill anything lower than that. i was hoping he would know to rough it up prior.

[boostedb16]

Don't forget he'd also need an air compressor lol Bit on the expensive side if you plan to only do one thing. But if you're doing a whole car it's worth it.

i was not telling to go buy a sata or anything. go to home depot and buy one. i am just not a fan of rattle can jobs. he said he like's to paint stuff and thats why i suggested the gun idea because it sounds like he will be doing it again.

[JessAlba452]

i was not telling to go buy a sata or anything. go to home depot and buy one. i am just not a fan of rattle can jobs. he said he like's to paint stuff and thats why i suggested the gun idea because it sounds like he will be doing it again.

sata or not you're still going to need an air compressor to power it

Or do what I do and get a friend that already has an air compressor lol

[Ronsam2006]

buy a gun and automotive paint and do it right. you said your top was faded so the gun would come in handy later.

I was thinking about that and that sounds really tempting but I dont know. I was thinking it might just turn out to be a wannabe painter project.

[rickgiblin]

SSC FTMFW... but dude, honestly... just take it to ssc and let him show you. thats how i learned. i watched for a good bit. now i teach people what i know. but if you want to use rattle can, go to walmart and see if you can find black primer high build or just grey highbuild... then go to the modle (sp) cars and they have house of color spraycans there, and that will leave you with a great finish and with very light sanding to do... good luck and post pics on the process. also, try to do it when it is a nice temp outside with no rain or humidity. good luck

[Ronsam2006]

well the thing is i have told the guy the same thing like 3 times. i also told him that i could paint it for $100 with real paint if he came and helped a bit. then he would know what to do in the future if he decided to take the project on. he is prob gonna have like $40-$50 in the project with spray paint if he keeps redoing it.


but yes he should prep it before with 400. spray can primer wont fill anything lower than that. i was hoping he would know to rough it up prior.

Man Bucky I feel you...I know you are thinking "he could have just brought it to me, hes gonna F*CK it up anyways". But this is something I really want to do this one by myself. Worst case, it will be a learning experience and Ill come to you for help.

[QuickBrick]

well the thing is i have told the guy the same thing like 3 times. i also told him that i could paint it for $100 with real paint if he came and helped a bit. then he would know what to do in the future if he decided to take the project on. he is prob gonna have like $40-$50 in the project with spray paint if he keeps redoing it.


but yes he should prep it before with 400. spray can primer wont fill anything lower than that. i was hoping he would know to rough it up prior.

I can see why you’re getting upset after 3 times bro. And for 100 you’re willing to teach and shoot, Ronsam2006 you might want to rethink what he's offering!!!

Tom

[boostedb16]

I was thinking about that and that sounds really tempting but I dont know. I was thinking it might just turn out to be a wannabe painter project.

you gotta start somewhere.

[CWChapman26]

Ok look been there and done all that its calles trial and error. But i will help first of if i am not mistaken the wing is fiberglass, so yeah you did right by sanding but you also have to clean it afterwards and see where you may have missed cause believe me the paint will show you if you dont find it first then you will do it all over again.


Step 1: Sand and clean with (denatured alochol) get that at a hrdware store. Make sure you wipe down then get you some primer from any auto store and make sure it has high build so the it may fill in any little holes. Then sand that down real good make sure all even. Clen before painting.

Step 2: Then you can paint, but i always you a promoter before i spray that way you are guarenteed a good tacking. Then lightly spray a goat twice. Then you can get real down on that paint and make it shine but not to much or it will run or start geiing crows feet.

[Ronsam2006]

SSC FTMFW... but dude, honestly... just take it to ssc and let him show you. thats how i learned. i watched for a good bit. now i teach people what i know. but if you want to use rattle can, go to walmart and see if you can find black primer high build or just grey highbuild... then go to the modle (sp) cars and they have house of color spraycans there, and that will leave you with a great finish and with very light sanding to do... good luck and post pics on the process. also, try to do it when it is a nice temp outside with no rain or humidity. good luck

Thanks for the info man...I will def post some pics ONLY if it turns out nice. Otherwise its someone elses turn. lol

[bandydesign]

Thanks for the info man...I will def post some pics ONLY if it turns out nice. Otherwise its someone elses turn. lol

lol, you shouldn't be ashamed of posting your progress regaurdless. Put up progressive pictures and explain your technique. I think it would benefit all of us to have an honest post, rather than smoke and mirrors.

[Ronsam2006]

lol, you shouldn't be ashamed of posting your progress regaurdless. Put up progressive pictures and explain your technique. I think it would benefit all of us to have an honest post, rather than smoke and mirrors.

Ok I will no doubt. just let this weather get better.

[loudap1]

if its urethane... wash it really well with soap and water first. using a grey or white scotch brite pad.

dont be scared to wash it a few times. once its dried really well get the appropriate plastics adhesion promoter.. SEM makes some really good plastic paint and prep materials we use it a good bit at my shop. they dont sell it at the parts stores but any automotive body and paint supply shop will carry it. apply the adhesion promotor as instructed on the label ( directions vary depending on what type of plastic you have so read the label). no high build primer is needed. what most people are forgetting is that plastic and urethane stuff is flexible, some more so than other and rattle cans dont have flex agents in them... definitly not high build primer **** will crack and flake off). if you have got any deep scratches in it then wet sand them out first before you apply anything, then wash well, ahesion promo and so on.. ). after the ahesion promoter is applied go to the color stage. rattle can dries really thin so it will take a few good coats 3-5 for full coverage. use a can that has a fan tip not the round type ( on most fan tip cans the nozzle is blue). like someone else wrote in the duplicolor stuff is really good for spray can. the first coat should be light and even dont try to make it slick and fully colored on the first coat, depending on the temperature wait 5-10 mins and come back with another coat this time a little heavier than before, overlapping slightly to eliminate any stripping from happening, wait another 5 or so and come over it again. after 3 coats if you dont have any holidays or stripes you should be good to wait and put down some clear. if you dont have any problems in the black let it dry the recommended time then move onto clear. apply the clear in the same way. light first coat, then medium wet coats after that. the last coat you put on you want to be wet and smooth dont run it but make sure its pretty shinny. dont worry if the entire thing is not totally glossy as your spraying you will see some orange peel but shortly after you spray the last coat as its curring it will float out and lay down slick and leave you with a decent spray bomb job. good luck. i paint high end muscle cars and collector cars for a living so if you need any help let me know. my shops is near buford hwy off pleasant dale. pm me if needed. hope some of this was helpful