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Thread: EURO DYNO DAY Sat. Aug 20th (100$ cash prize)

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    Default EURO DYNO DAY Sat. Aug 20th (100$ cash prize)

    EURO DYNO DAY Sat. Aug 20th (100$ cash prize)

    Presented by: Importatlanta.com, Batlground Engineering, & Eurotech

    We have room for 20 prereg spots post up if you wanna join in the fun:

    1. Paul "admin" Golf 2001 1.8t
    2. Joey "Clipz99" TT 2002 1.8t (225 Quatro LAMS)
    3. Walker 2000 1.8t Jetta
    4. Brady 05 Volvo S40 T5
    5. LUIS 02GTI 1.8T
    6. Robert Bishop 02 GTI 1.8T
    7. Kevin Fayerweather aka kevr6 2004 R32
    8. Jordan, 01.5 Passat 1.8T
    9.Tommy Atkins 2001 A4 Avant 1.8TQ
    10. Hugo 2000 Audi S4
    11. Leo '00 Audi A4 QMS
    12. Darko. 98 A4 1.8t FWD K04
    13. John "Rengu" 2002 VW GTI 1.8T
    14. Felix Folster 2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro
    15. Alen 00 Audi A4 1.8TQ
    16. david 96 vw gti vr6
    17. Nick Foster VW R32
    18. Scott 2002 1.8t Jetta (South Carolina)
    19. Bonham 2001.5 S4
    20.
    \/
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -eurodd-jpg  
    Last edited by 4dmin; 08-19-2005 at 09:31 AM.

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    Last edited by Clipz99; 07-07-2010 at 08:42 PM.

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    ^ everything is in the flyer: 30$ to runs which is a good deal for awd and Aug 20th Saturday, 12pm-5pm

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    Last edited by Clipz99; 07-07-2010 at 08:42 PM.

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    www.BatlGround.com Tracy's Avatar
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    YAY Euro stuff! Se ya'll here.
    Val for president!

    Facebook.com/TracyATL

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    20valves of fury DeutscheBAG!'s Avatar
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    sign me up
    Walker 2000 1.8t Jetta

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    IA's other Volvo Guy s four t5's Avatar
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    I'm in for sure....Brady 05 Volvo S40 T5
    05 S fourty-t 5
    Volvo power baby
    Classic Collision can suck it

    New delievery guy

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    added

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    SIGN ME UP..... LUIS 02GTI 1.8T

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    added

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    When negotiations fail... Ruiner's Avatar
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    Unlike my 911 turbo, some cars don't required mechanically linked drums to yield accurate readings without burning up clutch/dif packs. I have a specific AWD setup that requires this, however.The drums are different sizes on the Dynojet (I believe that this is correct), and they are not mechanically linked. If the center dif were to seize, you could potentially see the car jump right off of the dyno and into the brick wall.

    I would have to disconnect the front drive shaft in order to dyno on an AWD Dynojet. The front diffs will not handle the AWD system on the Dynojet. The only AWD system that is currently used on a standard basis for the 911 turbo is the AWD Mustang dyno (unless we disconnect the front drive shaft).
    AIM: RuinerTT
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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    ^ i dunno call dan to see if that is possible

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    What"s up vanilla face? Tracer's Avatar
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    Hey guys do you think if I put a VW logo on my car, you guys will count it as an Euro car?

    If so........SIGN ME UP!!!!!!

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    if we need some alternate cars i'll let ya know

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    What"s up vanilla face? Tracer's Avatar
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    I'm sure Tracy won't mind......but its up to you Paul.

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    hey ruiner its Dan with the Talon from way back...actually I think Dan dyno'd a porsche recently, it involved removing some fuse or something, but it worked, im sure of it.

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    www.BatlGround.com Tracy's Avatar
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    We actually got this new RPM pickup to go with the dyno. We don't have to use the old RPM pick up thing that we had to use in the past. It works on Porche's. We actually bought it so that we can dyno Proche's and Diesel's.
    Val for president!

    Facebook.com/TracyATL

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    www.BatlGround.com Tracy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruiner
    Unlike my 911 turbo, some cars don't required mechanically linked drums to yield accurate readings without burning up clutch/dif packs. I have a specific AWD setup that requires this, however.The drums are different sizes on the Dynojet (I believe that this is correct), and they are not mechanically linked. If the center dif were to seize, you could potentially see the car jump right off of the dyno and into the brick wall.

    I would have to disconnect the front drive shaft in order to dyno on an AWD Dynojet. The front diffs will not handle the AWD system on the Dynojet. The only AWD system that is currently used on a standard basis for the 911 turbo is the AWD Mustang dyno (unless we disconnect the front drive shaft).

    You actually have to change a setting on the dyno (I think it has something to do with the calibration od something. I'm not sure). We recently learned this from dynojet. I'm going to forward this to Dan so that he can explain it better.
    Val for president!

    Facebook.com/TracyATL

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    Hey sign me up (Robert Bishop 02 GTI 1.8T), I've been wantin to meet some dub folks for awhile and see what kinda numbers my chipped car is putting out. Hopefully it'll be running right by then. Thanks

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    When negotiations fail... Ruiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bling
    hey ruiner its Dan with the Talon from way back...actually I think Dan dyno'd a porsche recently, it involved removing some fuse or something, but it worked, im sure of it.
    It was a silver '02 with chip and exhaust. I sent him to Batlground. However, we found out later (from our Porsche experts) that we got lucky and could have fried the diff.
    AIM: RuinerTT
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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    Krazy VW chmura's Avatar
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    I'll be in..... prop with the getta, maybe golf for show.........


    I will try to get my sis out there and her friends....

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruiner
    Unlike my 911 turbo, some cars don't required mechanically linked drums to yield accurate readings without burning up clutch/dif packs. I have a specific AWD setup that requires this, however.The drums are different sizes on the Dynojet (I believe that this is correct), and they are not mechanically linked. If the center dif were to seize, you could potentially see the car jump right off of the dyno and into the brick wall.

    I would have to disconnect the front drive shaft in order to dyno on an AWD Dynojet. The front diffs will not handle the AWD system on the Dynojet. The only AWD system that is currently used on a standard basis for the 911 turbo is the AWD Mustang dyno (unless we disconnect the front drive shaft).
    hey ruiner,
    the mustang dyno is not mechanically linked, the dyno dynamics is not eitheir. the mustang has a brake control program to make sure that both drums decelerate at the same rate. the accleration is fine, its the decel that makes the difference. we have a sysetm on our dyno at batlground to dial in the decel speeds of both drums so that they both decelerate at the same rate and stop at the same time.
    dan

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    emartu
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    i'll try to talk my brother into it...he was just up at eurotech wednesday getting his ECU flashed for the S4, thanks for the heads up on that paul, he said the guy was really nice and they took good care of him.

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    ^ no prob brian and them are very good w/ the dubs... hope to see the S4 out

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    old school fool Allstar3.8T's Avatar
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    I'm in, hook me up on the list Paul! (If I still have the car...if not I'll do the GLI.)
    Greg
    86 Buick GN
    07 Passat Wagon
    01 Frontier

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    Blah.... rollininstyle2004's Avatar
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    Im in:
    Jordan, 01.5 Passat 1.8T (Paul, I am the one with the Black Passat, we talked at Import Frenzy)

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    sweet glad to see you on the board

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    what do those vw's normally put down?

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    ^ just varys... my stock 2001 1.8t put 150hp 160lbs down... now a k03s which would be 02-04 should put down alittle more stock, all bolt on's plus chip should yeild 200-250hp 250-300lbs range; just depends. and that TT should be alittle higher than the 1.8ts

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    Senior Member drupason's Avatar
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    i should be in town..ill prob come by

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    Quote Originally Posted by admin
    ^ just varys... my stock 2001 1.8t put 150hp 160lbs down... now a k03s which would be 02-04 should put down alittle more stock, all bolt on's plus chip should yeild 200-250hp 250-300lbs range; just depends. and that TT should be alittle higher than the 1.8ts
    cool. ill try and make it. i was dissapointed on my last dyno pulls. hopefully ill have my m50 intake manifold(i have a bmw328i) on by then.

  32. #32
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    nice i'm working on trying to get abd maniforld by then... what do you have done to the 328i, i think nick my come out i sent him a pm about it he has a sc 330.

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    nick is a cool guy. his car is sooooooooo badass
    MODS--
    shark injector
    conforti cai
    uri crank pulley
    borla catback
    eibach/bilstein suspension
    OEM x-brace
    e46 RSM's w/ z3 reinforcement plates
    ^
    i think that is all

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    When negotiations fail... Ruiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by namahs
    hey ruiner,
    the mustang dyno is not mechanically linked, the dyno dynamics is not eitheir. the mustang has a brake control program to make sure that both drums decelerate at the same rate. the accleration is fine, its the decel that makes the difference. we have a sysetm on our dyno at batlground to dial in the decel speeds of both drums so that they both decelerate at the same rate and stop at the same time.
    dan
    Dan, I was looking at some Mustang Dyno literature and came across this:

    http://www.mustangdyne.com/pdfs/High...mance%2004.pdf

    Today’s AWD cars use sophisticated driveline setups, ranging from simple differential-types to computercontrolled clutches and viscous couplings. When treated right, these parts are extremely durable. But a careless run on a dyno can spell disaster—unless you’re using a Mustang AWD dyno . With a Mustang dyno, the front and rear rolls are mechanically linked, so there is no chance of center differential damage due to the front and rear axles turning at different speeds. This is exactly how all-wheel-drive works in the real world—why take chances with non coupled rollers, or with rollers that are speed syncronized via master-slave control techniques?


    and this...

    TEST BOTH AXLES
    An MD-AWD-500 Series AWD dynamometer is one of the most useful tools you can put in your shop. With it, you can test both axles of any AWD vehicle under the same load and speed just like in the real world. This is crucial to prevent damage to expensive center differentials and torque bias systems as well as to get accurate readings. In many AWD vehicles, if slippage is detected, engine power is transferred between the front and rear axles automatically. On a dyno without linked front and rear rolls, this can happen constantly, generating destructive heat in the center differential and other AWD system components. The MD-AWD-500 Series front and rear roll sets are connected by indestructible Aramid-fiber belts. Our rugged belt-drive transmissions have nearly zero back-lash, absorb shock load well, and are a perfect choice for speed / load synchronization. An optional pnuematic clutch makes switching between AWD and 2WD Mode possible from the operator station
    Last edited by Ruiner; 07-12-2005 at 01:51 PM.
    AIM: RuinerTT
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE

  35. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruiner
    Dan, I was looking at some Mustang Dyno literature and came across this:

    http://www.mustangdyne.com/pdfs/High...mance%2004.pdf

    Today’s AWD cars use sophisticated driveline setups, ranging from simple differential-types to computercontrolled clutches and viscous couplings. When treated right, these parts are extremely durable. But a careless run on a dyno can spell disaster—unless you’re using a Mustang AWD dyno . With a Mustang dyno, the front and rear rolls are mechanically linked, so there is no chance of center differential damage due to the front and rear axles turning at different speeds. This is exactly how all-wheel-drive works in the real world—why take chances with non coupled rollers, or with rollers that are speed syncronized via master-slave control techniques?


    and this...

    TEST BOTH AXLES
    An MD-AWD-500 Series AWD dynamometer is one of the most useful tools you can put in your shop. With it, you can test both axles of any AWD vehicle under the same load and speed just like in the real world. This is crucial to prevent damage to expensive center differentials and torque bias systems as well as to get accurate readings. In many AWD vehicles, if slippage is detected, engine power is transferred between the front and rear axles automatically. On a dyno without linked front and rear rolls, this can happen constantly, generating destructive heat in the center differential and other AWD system components. The MD-AWD-500 Series front and rear roll sets are connected by indestructible Aramid-fiber belts. Our rugged belt-drive transmissions have nearly zero back-lash, absorb shock load well, and are a perfect choice for speed / load synchronization. An optional pnuematic clutch makes switching between AWD and 2WD Mode possible from the operator station
    That is very cool stuff, maybee i will look into adding one of those machines to our shop. It is a great idea to link the rollers but what happens when you are on the street and your car spins the rear or front tires first? All wheel drive cars are not perfectly weighted and the friction between the front tires and the road and the rear tires and the road are not equal. There are also differences in the amount of power that gets distributed to the front and rear wheels. These differences will allow for non equal acceleration and wheel speed between the front tires and the rear tires. This is not so much a problem on low power all wheel drive vehicles. It is not much difference in acceleration and rotational speed and it does not hurt anything on the street.

    The reason why there is a coupler between the front differential and the rear differential is to distribute the power. The viscous coupler or clutch type transfer case is built to do a job, its job is to distribute power to the front and rear tires and to absorb differences in wheel speeds due to slip.

    I think the main thing to look out for is dynos that are not calibrated to specific cars. we take time to balance the rollers before a tuning session to ensure that we keep the front to rear transfer case happy. the biggest problem is decelerating the front and rear wheels at different speeds, that is what causes catastrophic failure.
    dan
    Last edited by namahs; 07-13-2005 at 06:03 PM.

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    When negotiations fail... Ruiner's Avatar
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    Dan, I understand completely. I just want to be careful with my drivetrain as I am now out of warranty.
    AIM: RuinerTT
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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    ...
    Last edited by Clipz99; 07-07-2010 at 08:29 PM.

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    When negotiations fail... Ruiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clipz99
    does that mean I cant run my awd tt?
    You can, but my AWD setup is a bit different. It is heavily RWD biased. My system varies from 95% rear up to 40% front if it detects slippage. My car is the exception for AWD (for the most part) while most other cars do just fine on the dynojet.
    AIM: RuinerTT
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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    Elite - Member uberdude328i's Avatar
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    Wow all this talk about a 911Turbo makes me think I'll just come by and park my stock 328i (with 106K) a few blocks away. I'd rather just hang out than get laughed at.

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    we got 9 people keep it coming

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