what exactly does a cam do for your engine.. Like replacing a stock cam with the skunk2 pro 1's etc.. what does that do to your engine? does it add power or what? thanks
what exactly does a cam do for your engine.. Like replacing a stock cam with the skunk2 pro 1's etc.. what does that do to your engine? does it add power or what? thanks
higher lift/duration = more intake / exhaust
you definetly do not need to put a Skunk2 Pro series on a stock motor
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what do you suggest doing to the motor? first off?
basic bolt on's such as: CAI, Header, test pipe or high flow cat(depending on your counties emisions bs), then maybe like some high power spark plugs, wires, distributor cap rotoary button and ignition coil, bigger gorund wires,...btw what kind of car and motor is it?
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its a 97 civic hx with a 1.8 VTEC
yea if i have to pass emmisions i take a test pipe or high flow wouldnt be the best idea since i will prolly need my catalatic converter eventually?
you can get a high flow cat that will pass emissions. Stick to the bolt ons and possibly a different fuel map on your ecu. Maybe even an aftrmarket intake manifold( blox, AEBS, Skunk2, etc.)
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For STAGE 1, you will want at least a I/H/E.
Pro 1s, even tho skunk2 dosnt reccomend it, you will need Dual Valve springs and Ti Retainers.
same goes for any higher cam.
whats i/h/e?
INTAKE/HEADER/EXHAUST
IM ASSUMING YOU HAVE A C1 CORRECT?
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intake header and exhaust
AND IMHO THE ONLY PEOPLE I WOULD LISTEN TO ON B SERIES MOTORS ARE BOOSTEDLUDE, ANNIHILATION (GOD DAMN I KNOW I MISPELLED IT LOL) AND MR 2JZKIDD....REALISTICALLY, THESE ARE THE ONLY SELF WRENCHERS I WOULD TRUST TO DO SHIT/TAKE ADVICE ON A HONDA ON THIS ENTIRE SITE
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i have a high flow cat , and cat back on a 91 D16a6 , with headers and intake , and i passed my emmisions with flyin colors! i woulndt worry so much about doin those things!
dnwp
whoa we typed the same thing at the same time
seriously if you have a STOCK CAR, just look at getting bolt on stuff
Intake Header Exhaust Clutch Intake Manifold TB then possibly look into getting some ITR cams or something similar.
Only reason i would suggest buying cams, if you have the motor out of the car and you are doing a build, with some exceptions
if you have the motor out , spend the extra cash on stuff , lighter flywheel , pulley , clutch , poly mounts , headers . etc , it is sooooooooooo much easier
dnwp
from what i hear poly mounts are a bitch on holes and you feel ALOT more shit as far as vibrations through bumps and thingsOriginally Posted by drunk.scotsm
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lol werd..i don't know a shit load about the real technical shit..prety much here and there things lol...but it's a pretty good amount of stuff that i have learned from mike aka Mr.2jzkiddOriginally Posted by b18hatch
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yeah LIRL the funniest thing happened to me the other day...my boss at my part time gig found an old hour sheet....11/07/02-11/15/02....look at my profile and do the math on how long ive been doing stupid shit on cars....Originally Posted by §treet_§peed
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i wouldnt have SOLID mounts on a daily driver
with that being said my motor mounts came in the other day
It is gonna suck
nice!
dnwp
lol
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thank you.. yea i made a mistake with my earlier post it is a 97 civic HX with a 1.6 VTEC... B18hatch? would you even reccomend putting money into this motor as far as bolt ons or should i start off with a clean motor and build it up? and if i do put money in as bolt ons i should get and CAI, header, and an exhaust system? then after that is done where should i go from there. cause i still want to keep the car in good shape to drive without butchering it. thank you..
thats a good foundation...me personally is i would save up, get a ls (or a b20 block) and go ls/vtec. you will have more torque that way and IMHO be bang for your buck better than nickeling and diming on cold air intakes and bolt ons...
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how much do ls motors or b20 blocks cost.. and if i have a b20 block do i have to go ahead and replace the whole head of the engine also right?
IF YOU GO LS OR B20, USE YOUR VTEC HEAD YOU HAVE NOW. IVE SEEN LS MOTORS (JUST MOTORS) BETWEEN 300-700...MIKE (MR. 2JZKIDD) HAS MORE HANDS ON WITH B20'S. YOU PULL THE NON VTEC HEAD OFF THE BLOCKS, PUT YOUR VTEC HEAD ON, VTEC DIZZY, LS/V CONVERSION AND A FEW OTHER PARTS (WATER PUMP, OIL PUMP, TBELT) AND YOURE SET
SORRY BOUT THE CAPS.
BUT YOU FIGURE
HEADER- HELL WE'LL SAY ~$200-400 DEPENDING ON MODEL
INTAKE MANIFOLD-$100+
COLD AIR INTAKE- $100+ IF YOU GO NAME BRAND
PLUGS, WIRES, AND OTHER MINUSCUKE BULLSHIT- ??
JUST IN THE PRICES LISTED, YOU COULD PROBABLY FIND A GOOD USED LS BLOCK AND HAVE MORE POWER THAN THE AFORE MENTIONED PARTS
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thanks man..
hey one more question though.. if i switch and get a B20 block would i have to get a new tranny and clutch and shit or would the tranny i have now bolt right up?
or you could just get off brand parts for way less that work the same...just as good for CAI/H/E
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i got a no name tach , headers , high flow cat , muffler , and short shifter off EGAY , for about $150 shipped!
dnwp
how can you tell if the quality is still good though? is it pretty much all the same?
so far the quality for me has been good , and also good on my wallet! lol , unless you are pushin for some serious hp , no name brands will work fine , when you start boostin and major over hauls , thats when you start hittin up name brands! just my
dnwp
^^ yup.. i mean if your just wanting simple bolt-ons to gain simple power until you plain on and/or save up for say a bigger build... Ebay parts will work just as good..i've had my CAI for almost 2 years never had a problem, my Header fotr almost 1 year and a half never had a problem, only had a problem with the first header cause i accidently bent it before i put it on my car lol, High flow cat and cat-back 2.5 exhaust for almost 1 year and a half...still works good, and is perfectly fine cept for the muffler being diurty cause i'm to lazy to go out in cold a clean it lol..o yeah and how can i ferget my strut tower bars, almost year and a half with them and they aare fine as well..but i'm prolly gonna get a different one once i swap my motor lol..and a short throw shifter off ebay as well been almost 2 years with it and it is perfect as wel..and i shift hard alot..i've broke a fancy pants skunks 2 short throw and a dc sport short throw in my friends cars..lol lucky for me they didn't give a shit..
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thanks..
no problem
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the reason you pay more for name brand parts is cause of the R&D that go into the parts....prime example....google turbonetics....$$$ but quality....google SSautochrome....cheap but shitty...
fast + cheap=not reliable
cheap + reliable=not fast
fast + reliable= not cheap
choose two
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hey come on now bro..nothing wrong with buying simple stuff like what we was talking about from ebay..
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n one has really asked, but is it a B16 DOHC VTEC or is it the SOHC VTEC 1.6L?Originally Posted by Mangrum
the HX is a sohc VTEC. or is this car swapped?
if its a B16, i wouldnt do PRO1s from SKunk2. I would prob do Skunk2 Stage 1s or Skunk2 Stage2s.
PRO SERIES CAMS FROM SKUNK2 REQUIRE VALVETRAIN UPGRADES PERIOD.
Skunk2 Stage1s can run on stock valvetrain.
If you have the SOHC HX motor, TURBO IT. youll make more power than any swap an its cheap.
DONT DO LSVTEC unless your BUILDING the bottom end. cant say it enough, LSVTECs SUCK unless THEY ARE BUILD WITH FORGED INTERNALS.
B16 is a terrible motor to go NA with, they make weak TQ numbers, require alot to make any kind of decent power. GSRs are better .
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thank you and yes it is a SOHC.. stock motor that came with car..
then the PRO cams from skunk are only for the DOHC motors.
You need to be looking at Crower if your interested in a camshaft for your SOHC. but honetly, its not worth the money.
Boost it, its too hard to make any kind of power with a SOHC ALL motor
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