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Thread: Sentra of Death (200whp NA B13 SE-R)

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    Add-Water-Mod TheSnail's Avatar
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    Default Sentra of Death (200whp NA B13 SE-R)

    *SOLD*

    Introduction
    Finally decided to sell the Sentra. It has been sitting in the garage for 6months ever since I broke the transmission casing at the track from wheel hop (I’ll go into detail later). I have been telling myself I’ll throw in the spare trans sitting next to it the whole time and have yet to lift a finger so I came to the realization that I am done wrenching. I just bought a new crotch rocket so the Sentra must go to make room for it. As you will see, Im selling it for cheap, so I would assume it won’t last long.

    Description
    This is a rust free 92 Sentra SE-R that I bought about 4 years ago. It had 105k on it when I bought it and has 131k on it now. The previous owner I bought it from, bought it new. He was one of those crazy old people that record everything. He kept all repairs/ oil changes / psi in tires etc… Everytime he got gas from day one, he recorded the name of the station, amount of gas, cost of gas, and the mileage on the car at the time. So I’ll be happy to pass that bible sized folder/s to the new owner lol. Anyway, I bought an entire VE front clip, and had it professionally installed, had a custom ve ecu burned from New Zealand that is programmed to the stock ve maf/dizzy/harness and the N1 cams and 370cc injectors I have installed. It runs open loop so you don’t run an O2 sensor. There is no speed limiter, and the revlimiter is 8500 so there really is no need to upgrade the ecu. The car is 200whp +/- 2hp. I have about 80 dyno pulls recorded since I first got the VE. 60 of those pulls are above 190. And it has just sat at 200 for the past 20 pulls. It weighed in at 2280lbs so with its 200whp it will run low 13’s and still get 30 or so mpg.
    The motor is in perfect condition, I can do a compression check in front of serious buyers if wanted. It really has been trouble free.

    Chassis
    VIN: 1N4GB32A0NC806996
    1992 SE-R (131k on chassis)
    Repainted factory charcoal grey 3 years ago.
    Two sets of SE-R wheels

    Engine and Modifications
    Sr20ve entire front clip (105,000km=65.2k miles) + my 15k miles = 80ish k miles [1600]
    Polyurethane Mounts [50]
    Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit Part # 06902 ( just broken in @ 3k miles on the clutch) [280]
    11lb flywheel (Steel not Aluminum) [280]
    N1 camshafts [600]
    370cc sr20det injectors [80]
    Custom burned VE ECU [300]
    Custom 4-2-1 race header [900]
    Custom 2.5” maderel exhaust with resonator and muffler [$115 muffler, $30 resonator, $250 maderel tig welded piping, two piece catback with brackets, gaskets and hangers.
    Custom intake with velocity stack [110]
    Aeromotive FPR+gauge+fittings [175]
    2X Nismo fuel rail fittings [2x35]
    Primera Fuel pump [free with clip]
    UR Crank Pulley [150]

    The Bad
    Crack in dash
    Crack in windshield
    Headliner
    Took off AC for weight. (still have it all though if buyer wants to install)
    Transmission needs to be welded or replaced with tranny provided.


    Transmission Situation
    About 6 months ago I took it to the track, got wheel hop from the stock suspension so bad that it put a crack in the transmission housing right at the rear mount and poured tanny fluid all the way down the track. I didn’t realize anything was wrong until someone pointed out that there was a puddle of fluid under my car 30min later while I was sitting and talking. I called it quits and had it towed home. I took a look at it and am pretty sure you can tig weld the crack. I have two extra trannys that go with the car. One is a open diff that I got for 450 and had to buy an open diff axle for 200. If you want to run an open diff you can just swap them out. The other trans is a lsd. The internals of that transmission are perfect as the transmission was rebuilt for $850 20k miles ago. The problem was I ran a crappy clutch whose tolerances were very loose so disk wore down the input shaft splines on the disk aswell as the transmission. So if you want to run the lsd transmission, you can combine the two lsd transmissions by either swapping out the input shaft or swapping out a casing. The clutch is a just broken in Exedy so its already to go, just pick a tranny that you want to go with. You can drive it home as it sits right now though I would not recommend it as you will fry and ruin the transmission within 30 miles. If you don’t want to run the tranny that’s on it now, drive it home, race someone on the way back it will still run 13s until the tranny starts to whine. Personally I wouldn’t drive it any distance, but at that point its upto the new owner.

    Price
    $3000

    I know I would make much more if I parted it out, but like I said I am done with wrenching so don’t ask if I will part it out.

    PM me or email me at [email protected]

    Thanks, Voya


























































    Race Header


    Race Header vs 2.5 SSAC
    Last edited by TheSnail; 07-09-2010 at 05:48 PM.

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