89 S13 coupe
So I am running out of time coming up with cash and I'm going to Europe for a year. I'm going to need cereal cash to have fun with so I think I's gonna have to sell my car.
Chassis:
early 89 240sx coupe with unknown mileage on the chassis/motor. The tachometer had ~220k miles on it when I bought the car about 2 years ago and it never worked when I had it. When I bought it it had been sitting for a number of years and was in rough shape. I have no idea on accident history, but as with most 240's I imagine it's had at least one. Having said that it doesn't dog track and it aligns just fine. The body work is all done, just needs to be prepped and painted. I plan on doing the remainder of the prep work and possibly priming the whole car.
I bought an S&W around the dash cage and didn't realize it until a while later so I installed it anyways. The stock dash was not going back in with the SW cage so I made a custom sheet-metal dash that fits in place of the stock one. The VIN was transferred to this custom dash. The door bars and around the dash A-pillar bars have been replaced with much better fitting ones made from 1.75 x .095 DOM tubing.
Wiring:
The car was entirely re-wired with a summit universal 18-circuit harness. I pulled out a couple circuits because I didn't need them, but I kept the wires and they will be included. Everything necessary to drive it is wired up and functions properly on the switch panel I made(hi/low wipers, turn signals, electric fan, lights, back up lights, still working on the hazards circuit). The battery was moved to the passenger-side rear seat. The battery is wired to two cut-off switches, one mounted to the passenger side of the cage and the other in the switch panel in the dash. Both are simple key-type cut-off switches. All of the wiring is sheathed in wire-loom and routed with push in zip-tie holders.
Engine-control:
The engine is wired up with a Megasquirt II with PCB 3.0 and the megasquirt relay board. The megasquirt wiring is routed the same way as the chassis harness, and both are completely seperate and could be pulled from the car in maybe an hour. The megasquirt is set-up to control the engine as a stand-alone and has a ton of capabilities beyond what its set up for. It's just a matter of researching and implementing it. The system is simple enough and everything seems to be functioning properly with it. I deleted all the emissions equipment in the process.
Engine:
The engine is basically stock, I deleted all the emissions equipment from the motor, including the butterfly system right at the head that is vacuum operated normally. It has an e-bay stainless steel header wrapped in header wrap and painted in black hi-temp paint. The exhaust is a home-made 2 1/4" with only a simple muffler at the end(it sounds decent and is relatively quiet). I made a custom aluminum 2.75" intake with some mandrel bent tubing and TIG'ed it together. The radiator is replaced with a cx-racing aluminum radiator from e-bay with dual 12" fans controlled by a switch. It has an oil filter relocation kit on it plumbed to an FC rx-7 oil-cooler which is GIANT.
Drive-train:
The flywheel was lightened down to ~16-17 lbs. and the clutch is just an oem replacement with plenty of wear left in it. The drive-shaft is an aluminum one-piece that weighs 11 pounds. The entire rear sub-frame was replaced around the time I bought the car and swapped with a VLSD one.
Brakes:
Brake lines are all swapped to SS braided lines, as well as the clutch line. The front discs are EBC slotted rotors, and the rears are stock replacement rotors. The car has Hawk HP+ pads all around. Clutch slave and master are both about a year old.
Interior:
The Car has a single ebay Fiberglass bucket seat and a stock S13 passenger seat. D/S has an RCI 5/6-point harness and passenger side just a lap belt. The steering wheel is a Sparco wheel with a quick-release and hub on it. Gauges are tach/fuel level/voltmeter/oil pressure/water temp. There's room in the gauge cluster slot for two larger gauges(speedo and tach) current tach is mounted on top of the dash.
Suspension:
I put in solid aluminum sub-frame bushings, swapped out the lower ball joints, put in poly bushings on the LCA's and sway bars, and the remaining arms were replaced with heim joint end adjustable ones. The car also has adjustable tensions rods and tein outer tie-rods with peak performance inners. The car has Buddy Club D-Spec coilovers on it which are brand new. Rear sway-bar was swapped for the larger oem one off the rear subframe I bought.
Wheels are Borbets 15x7 +35 set of 4, 6 diamond racing 15x8 +0 4x114.3 wheels, 4 are still brand new in box and 2 are on the car. The fronts look to fit fine without any fender rolling, and haven't tried them on the rears yet. The studs are ARP extended studs that are I think 2.5" long.
I've done absolutely everything on this car, so if you have any questions I can definitely answer any of them and feel free to ask. As the car sits I'd like $6000 with all the wheels, $5400 with just the borbets or $5700 with just the diamond racing wheels. I know it seems like a lot, but it's pretty much a competition ready car minus power. With the megasquirt if you popped in a built ka you could boost and be done. Any questions E-mail or phone are the quickest contacts: [email protected], six sevun ate-nein three six-sevun too too ate.
If you want more pictures I can take detailed pictures any time of anything you want.
PHOTOS!:
Vin is: JN1HS34P1KW008794
price is OBO
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Originally Posted by zachscar
Not to beat a dead horse... but you're never gonna get 6k for that car. 6k towards a rolling chassis puts you on a serious project car. Something like this cost less than 6k rolling. Is that KA worth $5k? im missing something when i add this up.
