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Thread: 97 Integra Bogging Issues

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    Default 97 Integra Bogging Issues

    Hey Everyone, I was needing some advice on my car. I have a 97 Integra LS and the other night while I was on the Interstate I was just cruising at 80 mph and all the sudden my car bogs down, so I push the gas to accelerate and it hesitated and I felt a lot of resistance. I noticed if I stayed 60 mph or less it wouldn't really do it, but if I tried going over 60 mph or at high rpms (3,500 or more) it would start doing it and wouldn't let me accelerate anymore. Then my CEL started blinking. I replaced my plugs/wires about 2 months ago and my distributor cap/ rotor button about 6 months ago. So I was thinking It could be the Distributor, o2 sensor or fuel filter. But one thing I am concerned with is about 6 months ago my timing belt snapped and I replaced it, well it ran fine for a bit but it didn't run the same as before.. So I'm thinking I bent a valve or 2 or the timing was off a tad bit.. but regardless if it was the valves it would have done this from the get go right?? Also, I did a manual conversion in my car about 3 years ago and when I did it my CEL has been on and I cant get it to go off, well I know it runs like crap when the light is on anyways but I always thought my car under heated itself because of the light being on, but as I did my research on thermostats it said you can hear loud clunking noises from time to time and I always thought it was my compressor or something but it made sense that it makes that noise when it forces itself to open or close I forgot exactly which one.. but basically the thermostat opening up and constantly dumping coolant/ water and said it can cause problems with your compression.. So I was wondering if that could be a factor as well? Any helpful advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much!
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    You should do a compression or leak down test, to test if your engine is still holding proper pressure. If your timing belt snapped a while back, and you noticed a difference in performance; then you probably bent or chipped a valve. Check your engine light codes as well, narrow down the issue, and go from there. About your coolant lines, did you bleed the coolant to relieve any air bubbles when you did the timing belt and water pump? I believe there should be a bleeder valve to do so, correct me if I'm wrong guys.
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    could have bent valves and it progressively got worse, but doubt it. Need to do leakdown test to be sure.

    Do your RPMs jump around at all? Sounds to me like your distributor is going out, that will def cause the bogging and sluggish feel. Its easy to fix, just swap to a friends known good dizzy and see if it changes. Most likely its the ignitor inside going bad. The tach will jump around if it does it.

    As far as cooling, shouldnt hear any noises at all. thermostat is way to quiet and doesnt work like that. Replace it, $15 cost. If your car is staying cool, it could be from the thermostat being stuck OPEN.

    Only waY thermostat causes compression issues is if you have a blown headgasket
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    Ok that makes sense. Yes I bled the coolant when I did the timing belt and water pump, but I have not done a compression or leak down test yet. I didn't notice my RPMs jumping around, but I guess I will take my friends dizzy off to check and see if that is the problem.. but could that still be the issue if the RPMs aren't jumping around? I am also replacing the thermostat. I definitely know its throwing an o2 code.. but its the one that I have to wire in.. So I have to replace that as well.
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    O2 wont make the car run noticably different . youll get worse MPG but its not a power or drivability issue.

    Yes it can still be the dizzy even if RPMs arent affected. Usually, the car will run better cold , as temps rise under the hood, the ignitor contacts short out and the car will run crappy in the higher speeds and RPMs.

    i would change the dizzy to eliminate that as a possibility, then check your timing and compression/leakdown after that
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    also i apologze for the chicken scratch,, im typing with a broken finger, and too lazy to change mispellings lol
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    Ok, so I did a compression test and leak down test and everything turned out fine. Replaced fuel filter, Cleaned IACV, gutted the cat (just in case it was clogged lol the honeycomb structure on the inside was coming apart) Ive pretty much done everything possible that it could be minor wise.. Now im beginning to think its the fuel injectors or ECU or something of that nature. Everytime I drive it and hold it at 60 mph or hold the rpms at 3,000+ rpms, It starts sounding like its misfiring really bad and bogs down, it only does it under load at 3,000 rpms and above. The CEL codes say that its misfiring on Cyl 1,2,3,4 and it will give the multiple misfire on all cylinders code. I took it to a shop and they tinkered with it and said the injectors are working.. But I am thinking that they might be clogged maybe? I am getting frustrated because I take it to a shop and tell them what I think it may be and they replace all of the crap ive already replaced and charge me for it and wont listen to me, I guess because I am a female and I don't know what I am talking about.. I am just tired of dumping money into not really sure of what the problem is, I know I can take a chance and send my injectors off to get cleaned but theres that chance of them not being clogged and wasting money that I could've put the money towards fixing the problem. Sorry I know I sound hardheaded and I know Im always gonna have to put money into it, I just wish I could find the problem and fix it so I can get the emissions passed and I can drive it again.
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    Distributor, misfire is almost always Distributor/ignitor/coil
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    Ok, makes sense. Replaced them so it must be the dizzy after all *sighs* lol
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    Starting to sound like an electrical issue now, maybe. You think it could be the fuel pump issue instead? Also, try getting someone to plug their OBD2 scanner to decipher what is going on. Try to get some live data on what the engine is doing and see what codes you are throwing again. Try to perform a couple of test on the distributor with a digital volt meter. Check the ignition coil. Does your car overheat or knock? Can you recall what the temp gauge was showing?
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    I replaced the coil already, But no it doesn't overheat or knock or anything. All of the gauges stay the same. I keep leaning toward it being a fuel related issue because it runs fine cruising under 60 and as long as I don't reach 3,000+ rpms.. Its like when the car requires more fuel at higher speeds that's when it starts to misfire really bad, like it cant keep up if that makes sense. Almost like the combustion chamber isn't getting fuel sprayed in there everytime like it needs to be and causing it to hesitate and feel resistance and bog down. Sorry im trying to type it where it makes sense lol
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    Coil is only 1/2 the problem, usually its the ignitor.

    Seriously just try a known good distributor from someone else , just to eliminate that as the problem. Out of the 75 Hondas i have owned, ive only had a Resistor box go bad in relation to anything fuel related.

    Fuel pump either works or it doesnt. Sure the sock could be clogged but i doubt it. Uswually when an ECU is throwing misfire codes that is 100% Ignition/timing related. Almost never fuel
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    ICM right? If so, that was replaced too.. I replaced the coil and ICM at the same time.
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    Cap? Rotor button? Wires?
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    Yep everything lol
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    OK, if that's the case, try another known good ecu. After that check timing on the belt. After that I would look to map sensor/tps ,fuel pump
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    I had a 180sx one time that did the same thing but it was a rusty gas tank. Swapped tank and lines out and ran like a dream.

    But unless your car sat for A LONG time I doubt that was it
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    Well my buddy loaned me his injectors, So I am putting those in tomorrow to scratch that off of the list. The fun part is gonna be finding someone with an ECU for me to try out lol All of my buddies have VTEC engines and that does me no good haha Do yall think mainstream or somewhere like that has ECUs laying around to test problems like that or will they charge me for a full diagnostic on the car?
    </3 R.I.P. *JAMES CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON III* </3

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    It'll throw VTEC codes, but car should run right.

    If you have an LS motor you can run a GSR ECU , it'll operate the car fine will just throw codes for VTEC solenoid,pressure switch etc.
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    Sounds like a fuel related issue. I have had a fuel pump start to lose pressure around the 4k mark, put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and drove down the street and seen the pressure start to drop from 32psi to 20psi causing the car to bog down at 4k. Put a new fuel pump in and it took care of the problem. Check fuel pressure and see where your at... If it's the fuel pump you will see the problem on the gauge and know it's the pump since it reads pressure before it reaches the injectors. You could also use injector noid lights to diagnose bad injectors instead of swapping parts that could potentially cause another issue down the road.

    Remember combustion engines need 3 things to run, air, fuel, and spark. If it's not getting one or only getting a portion of it you will experience drivability issues. So when diagnosing drivability issues those are the 3 thing you check first, after that then you start looking for the weird stuff like ECU's or wiring issues etc...

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    Also check the Fuel pressure regulator that's is on your fuel rail.

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