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Thread: URGENT!! new ls/vtec get gas in the oil and bottom of the block!!! please help!!!!

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    Exclamation URGENT!! new ls/vtec get gas in the oil and bottom of the block!!! please help!!!!

    alright i have a new 0 miles ls/vtec with brand new internals everywhere, had everything connected and the timming set and it turned on with a virgen p28 ecu, let it warm up for 25 mins, just idleding, no smoke at all, no gas odor just straight pipe smell, turned it off change the oil since it has already warmed up, put new oil and got an ls/vtec basemap and i wired the the vtec myself(dont know if that why it got fucked up) after the car turned on and after like 5 seconds(while it was on smelled like gas alot, looked at the header and its leaking some kinda fluid i get some of it in my hands and it was gas maybe with a lilttle oil idk, tried again and it didnt start, looked at the oil and it smeeled like gas and the oil was kinda watery guessing because of the gas, so i changed that oil, checked the spark plugs and where little black and had gas in them, so got all 4 out cleaned them, left the oil drain plug open all night to get ALL the fluid out also unpluged the 7.5 fuse on the engine bay(fuel injector fuse or somenthing like that), this morning i put brand new oil, new filter and go to build up preassure with no starter nothing, get everything plugged again and try, same thing turned on and off in like 1 second, checked the oil and same thing gas in there, the rings, walls everything is new and it turned on with the p28 maybe running way too rich??


    thanks and sorry for the long reading was trying to give all info i could.
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    well the gas in the oil could be its running rich. Gas only comes from the tank, through a supply line , to the fuel rail through the injectors. So its not like its pooling up somewhere. You may have a stuck injector or something.

    what you could have is a leak or problem in the LSVTEC headgasket or conversion and oil from the cylinder could be mixing with the gas in the cylinder.

    Id do a compression test and see what the numbers say first
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    1)how to know if i have a stuck injector.
    2)its stock ls headgasket.
    3)yea ill do the test tonight hopefully.

    but question, it turned on with the p28 ran fine, absolutly no gas in the oil after being on for 25-30 mins all this happened after i got the new ls/vtec basemap.

    thanks for the help.
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    Run it on the p28 then, just drive normal. Its possible that the base map is on the rich side to be safe, but shouldn't pour fuel... Also new motors take a little bit to seat rings, which can also lead to gas/oil mix

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat View Post
    Run it on the p28 then, just drive normal. Its possible that the base map is on the rich side to be safe, but shouldn't pour fuel... Also new motors take a little bit to seat rings, which can also lead to gas/oil mix
    cant run it on the p28 cause remenber scotty chipped it and put a ls/vtec basemap friday remenber, guessing it running too rich, idk about pouring fuel but the dipstick has a very strong gas smell, the oil is kinda watery cause of the gas, question if the rings were not set it worked fine and now with the ls/vtec basemap wont even turn on and mixes fuel with oil??

    thanks.
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    cut jumper J1 to return it to stock
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    cut jumper J1 to return it to stock

    just cut the j1 jumper???
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    Dont do that. If you want it will run ok on the p28 for you to drive it up here, and we can remap... scotty may have done the map for 390's

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat View Post
    Dont do that. If you want it will run ok on the p28 for you to drive it up here, and we can remap... scotty may have done the map for 390's
    your saying not do what vteckkid told me to do??? what will run ok on the p28, the car wont even turn on and i made sure he didnt use the 390s.
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotor-teg View Post
    your saying not do what vteckkid told me to do??? what will run ok on the p28, the car wont even turn on and i made sure he didnt use the 390s.
    you need to cut the J1 JUMPER on the ECU to return the ECU back to stock. or you can find another STOCK ecu, the map may be wrong or corrupted.

    whatever you do do NOT run it or drive it you will wash the cylinders out.

    find a stock D Series ecu and plug it in
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    you need to cut the J1 JUMPER on the ECU to return the ECU back to stock. or you can find another STOCK ecu, the map may be wrong or corrupted.

    whatever you do do NOT run it or drive it you will wash the cylinders out.

    find a stock D Series ecu and plug it in
    1)alright so if i cut the j1 jumper it will go back to stock p28 ecu??
    2)i sure wont drive it or run it like that but the car wont even turn on.
    3)dont think i will get a stock d series ecu
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    or bring the ECU by mainstream to have scotty remap it and see what is wrong (if anything) with it
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    or bring the ECU by mainstream to have scotty remap it and see what is wrong (if anything) with it
    cant do that cause scotty wont be back for one and a half weeks.
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    Do you have any cel's with the ecu plugged in?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat View Post
    Do you have any cel's with the ecu plugged in?
    dont have no lights on but the srs on the dash and how to check that the cels??? going to get a comp reading on the head(really need to check that right??) should i change oil before i try to do the compression test, since it has oil and gas??
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    after work ill get home and do a comp test and ill post the reading on each cylender.
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    change oil, contamination can eat bearings over time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat View Post
    change oil, contamination can eat bearings over time.

    so change the oil and then try to do the compression test??
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    Well if its not running it wont hurt it, but dont drive it without changing the oil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmminoDaGreat View Post
    Well if its not running it wont hurt it, but dont drive it without changing the oil.
    yea is not running, like it doesnt turn on so is not making damage to the rings or walls?? the head does not smell like oil at all, but the dipstick does, so how can i fix that flooding problem, cause i dont want to keep wasting oil for no reason,i wired the vtec myself like scotty told me but if i wired it wrong can that be the cause of it flooding?? and had problems yesturday so couldnt do the test should do it today if everything goes well, need to get the car moving asap.
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    sigh

    Ok lets solve ONE thing at a time.

    1) GET A STOCK D SERIES ECU OR CUT JUMPER J1. If you want to know how to cut the j1 jumper, GOOGLE it, its everywhere. This will return your ECU back to the stock map. And its easy for scotty to resolder it later on.


    2) Once you have verified you have a STOCK ecu, (since you say the car ran fine UNTIL you got a new map and wired VTEC in, i suggest you start with getting the ECU back to stock), i would retrace your "vtec" wires. I would also unplug the solenoid and see if it trips a "NO VTEC" CEL.

    3) CHANGE THE OIL

    4) CHANGE SPARK PLUGS

    5) TRY TO CRANK CAR UP AGAIN

    6) IF IT FAILS TO START AGAIN, DO A COMPRESSION TEST. REPORT BACK HERE WITH THE NUMBERS

    7) IF IT DOES START, LET IT WARM UP, MONITOR THE TEMP, IF ITS SAFE TO DRIVE, DRIVE IT TO GET TUNED ASAP
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    the comp was 92.5 90 85 92.5 that was with brand new oil, unplugged dizzy.
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    did the comp was 92.5 90 85 92.5 that was with brand new oil, unplugged dizzy, im extreamly dissapointed about those numbers, but still dont seem to understand how i washed the rings with the car not even starting and only trying 3 times.
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    thats not that bad for a new build especially if it poured gas in.

    Get a stock ecu and try that
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    thats not that bad for a new build especially if it poured gas in.

    Get a stock ecu and try that
    1)alright ill cut the j1 and it will be a stock p28 again correct???
    2)so after cutting that j1 just try to turn the car on??
    3)if it turns on like normal it was just that ecu running extreamly rich correct??
    4)think i might have washed the walls and rings??
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    sorry i forgot to say that i didnt hold the gas pedal wide open i didnt touch it at all, idk but maybe it helps in a way.
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    yes itll return to a stock ecu (google how to do it itllexplain everything).

    Try to start it, put fresh plugs in. if it runs, the ecu you got or the map on it was corrupted , wrong injector size, or just way too rich, which sometimes happens.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    yes itll return to a stock ecu (google how to do it itllexplain everything).

    Try to start it, put fresh plugs in. if it runs, the ecu you got or the map on it was corrupted , wrong injector size, or just way too rich, which sometimes happens.

    thanks ill try that tonight, not sure if not holding the gas pedal wide open will make any difference on the reading cause i didnt touch the pedal at all and i talked to scotty and he told me to snip it in the center and just spread it apart so he can reconnect it.
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    alright, so i did that and it turned on and everything, i was going to drive it around 5 miles very easy no past 3k and i it moved everything but i had absolutly no tq, had to do a u turn and go back home couldnt pull up the driveway, had it to the floor and the rpm wouldnt move at all, dont know whats going on now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotor-teg View Post
    alright, so i did that and it turned on and everything, i was going to drive it around 5 miles very easy no past 3k and i it moved everything but i had absolutly no tq, had to do a u turn and go back home couldnt pull up the driveway, had it to the floor and the rpm wouldnt move at all, dont know whats going on now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00Civic View Post
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    reply just to write me my siG???
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    do a compression test again, if possible.. do a compression test after the engine has been running for about 20 minutes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBS View Post
    do a compression test again, if possible.. do a compression test after the engine has been running for about 20 minutes.

    alright i will try to do that, but if its running very lean will it really make that much of a difference??? lets say it reads 85-95 all across the boards, shouldnt run ver bad since 0 rpm cause it ran very good when i wasent going up hill, only got the 3000 rpm but up hil it stayed at 1500 and it will not go up at all made a uturn going a lil down hill and it was fine again, saw absolutly no smoke at all, maybe is the virgen p28??
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotor-teg View Post
    alright i will try to do that, but if its running very lean will it really make that much of a difference??? lets say it reads 85-95 all across the boards, shouldnt run ver bad since 0 rpm cause it ran very good when i wasent going up hill, only got the 3000 rpm but up hil it stayed at 1500 and it will not go up at all made a uturn going a lil down hill and it was fine again, saw absolutly no smoke at all, maybe is the virgen p28??
    all Honda B,D,H,F(accord) engines run just fine in terms of driveability with a factory P28.

    what kind of injectors are you using? if you dont know you should consult your engine builder as he/him/her should know ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by RBS View Post
    all Honda B,D,H,F(accord) engines run just fine in terms of driveability with a factory P28.

    what kind of injectors are you using? if you dont know you should consult your engine builder as he/him/her should know ...

    using stock ls one but i have 390 and walbro fuel pump going to put on it when i get it tuned and scotty get better. hopefully
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    what if the timming is 1-2 teeth off, might that be the cause??
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