My D15B8 is burning oil but not smoking, not sure why please help!!!
I have a 94 coupe DD with a D15B8 engine in it. It only has 150k miles on it and it burns oil like crazy. It doesnt smoke at all, it runs strong, it drops about 2 oz of oil every 3,000 miles (between oil changes) but I have to add about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. Where is this oil going?
leaking
Check the driveway. If it's not smoking then it's not burning.
that's how I roll
not leaking, i drop maybe 2oz between oil changes. I know im burning it. And you can burn oil without it smoking.
check your coolant for chocolate
it's all in the motor that's where it's going
thats where oil is regardless
if your burning oil, YOU'LL SEE IT. especially that much oil.
What you are experiencing is the "Angel's share," common problem with older hondas. Usually as you are describing, around every 1,000 miles or so an Angel swoops into your oil pan while youre sleeping and uses 1qt of oil to lubricate its wings. If you search for a fix to the issue, it will make the angels very angry and will bring you very bad karma. Id suggest leaving it alone.
But in all seriousness its probably your valve stem seals.
Originally Posted by Echonova
are we making irish whiskey, or are we talking oil consumption with the Angel's Share... lol
valve stem seals are my guess as well. likely smokes for a second or 2 on start up, then stops. burns it while driving down the road, and can cause little/no smoke...
You're right - I have no idea what I'm talking about...
I was wondering if anyone around here would know what i was talking about. lulzare we making irish whiskey, or are we talking oil consumption with the Angel's Share... lol
valve stem seals are my guess as well. likely smokes for a second or 2 on start up, then stops. burns it while driving down the road, and can cause little/no smoke...
So it does in fact then smoke?are we making irish whiskey, or are we talking oil consumption with the Angel's Share... lol
valve stem seals are my guess as well. likely smokes for a second or 2 on start up, then stops. burns it while driving down the road, and can cause little/no smoke...
that's how I roll
Thanks for the help, between you and slostang, its apparant that you two are the only people on this thread that want to actually help someone with there problem rather than post stupid usless crap to make there posts number go up. I hate punk kids.are we making irish whiskey, or are we talking oil consumption with the Angel's Share... lol
valve stem seals are my guess as well. likely smokes for a second or 2 on start up, then stops. burns it while driving down the road, and can cause little/no smoke...
Last edited by r.etheridge; 02-10-2011 at 08:29 AM.
could it also be piston rings as well as the valve stem seals? This is my son's dd and he says he babies it but you know how that goes with 16 year olds.are we making irish whiskey, or are we talking oil consumption with the Angel's Share... lol
valve stem seals are my guess as well. likely smokes for a second or 2 on start up, then stops. burns it while driving down the road, and can cause little/no smoke...
Last edited by r.etheridge; 02-10-2011 at 08:30 AM.
It's magic oil. Now you see it, now you dont
bro my lude burns and leaks so much oil..
i put half a quart to a quart evrry 300 miles
my motor always has fresh oil!!
damn....
could be piston rings, in the morning when the engine is cold.. stand behind it and let someone crank the car up. bad valve seals will cause alot of blue smoke to appear upon startup
I think its the valve seals. I know your not supposed to reuse head gaskets but the one I have on it is only a couple months old and im really not trying to pull the head again and spend another $60 on another head gasket. Would that one be ok to use again if when I pull the head it stays in tack? Im assuming that I have to pull the head to change the valve seals
reusing a old headgasket is a failure within a failure, slap yourself Lolol. if you pull the head, have it checked for warpage and get a NEW gasket from autozone.. you will thank yourself in the long run
I know I know just kills me to shell out another $60 got a head gasket when I just did but ill suck it up. When I pulled it last time I checked for warpage and it was flat so I will pull it again and change the valve seals and check to make sure the valve guides abd valves are still straight
Could possibly be rings, not not very likely. Valve stem seals are WAY more common of an issue vs ring issues.
Simple way to test rings, do a compression test when the engine is bone cold. The readings should be atleast 150psi.
What weight oil are you running?
5w20
So I have a haynes manual but it doesnt say how to perform a compression test or leak down test. Could someone PM me and walk me through it or send me a link? Im mechanically inclined! lol also, cold or warm?
Last edited by r.etheridge; 02-11-2011 at 05:22 PM.
Step your oil up to a 15w40 rotella. It should take care of most of it.
As for a compression test, go to auto zone and rent a compression tester. remove all 4 spark plugs and screw the testers tube in spark plug hole and spin the car over for atleast 5 seconds. repeat that process for all 4 cylinders and youll have results.
I got the compression test set, do i need to do the test with a warm or cold engine?
Sorry i forgot that. Cold. Or both if you feel spunky.
Id be almost willing to bet it not your rings though.
you do NOT need to pull the head to do valve seals.
simply remove the valvecover, cams.
get an ohc valve spring compressor (under $100 at auto parts stores, cheaper at harbor freight).
also buy a (forget what it's "technical" name is) adapter that connects to an air line, and screws into a spark plug hole. this will pressurize the cylinder, hold the valve in the head, and allow you to change out the seals.
google what i am talking about for pics and such - on car valve seal job or something along that line...
You're right - I have no idea what I'm talking about...
I think a leak down test kit will pressurize the cylinder and I have one if so. Cool, so I think it while I have all this stuff apart, I will change out the valve guides as well and I suspect that it can be done without pulling the head as well?
you can't replace valve guides without pulling the head. they are pressed in and out. plus, the valve is in them, and will fall into the engine if you manage to get a guide out while doing this...
just do the valve stem seals.
You're right - I have no idea what I'm talking about...
so my compression was starting with the cylinder on the driverside and the last # being the far left on the pass. side 150-160-130-160. all are in spec 184psi max 135 min. but not withing 28psi from the highest # to the lowest. What do i do next?
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