Mobil1, What is the deal???

[speedminded]

Apparently Mobil 1 EP [Extended Performace] and maybe other lines has too gone to a Group III oil but without telling the public?

Okay boys and girls, take a seat cause you aren't going to like this.

The new M1 EP 5W-30 SM dated Oct 2006 just came out of the G.C. and it is MOSTLY mineral oil, presumably Group III. It also contains a good slug of AN and some PAO, but little or no ester. Will have more data tomorrow.

Just for the record, I intend to still use M1 EP, in spite of their slide down the slippery slope.

Tom

My understanding is Mobil1 users are paying Group IV prices for Group III oil. Mobil1's only public comments are is it's "fully synthetic". Amsoil made the switch to Group III with their XL line and told the public, yet they still call it "fully synthetic".

Can anyone add anything or correct me?

Reference:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...rt=1&vc=1&nt=9

[brads94accord]

interesante...

I was about to go pick some up in the next few days to do an oil change.

[{X}Echo419]

interesante...

I was about to go pick some up in the next few days to do an oil change.

5QT jugs @ Wal-Mart for like $24.99. they have regular and EP. I just grab the regular

[ct9a gsr]

Mobil 1 sucks... but don't tell the millions of ppl who swear by it that... they'll get angry for no reason, lol.

[speedminded]

Mobil 1 sucks... but don't tell the millions of ppl who swear by it that... they'll get angry for no reason, lol.

Mobil 1's REAL full synthetic has been proven to be the best over and over again by far. (Short of Group V) Fan's of Amsoil and nearly everything other oil imagineable will still contest for it but don't want to pay the additional cost.

The point is not what the best oil is, it's companies selling Group III oil as "Fully Synthetic" when it is not.

5QT jugs @ Wal-Mart for like $24.99. they have regular and EP. I just grab the regular

Usually $23.87 Used to be $18 and some change at Sam's Club and just under $20 at Wal-Mart before Mobil 1 went to the buy 6 get one free mail in the UPC bonus rewards thing...it's still $30-32+ at Autozone & PepBoys for 6.

[speedminded]

ok, i give up....i'm just going to start manufacturing my own oil!

This link helps explain all about engine oil and even has a little bit of humor added:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

[ct9a gsr]

While on the issue of oil... wanna do some research for me?

Valvoline Racing 20w-50 Series Oil...

There's conventional, synthetic, and "VR1"

Find me what's so significant about the VR1, thanks. =D

[speedminded]

While on the issue of oil... wanna do some research for me?

Valvoline Racing 20w-50 Series Oil...

There's conventional, synthetic, and "VR1"

Find me what's so significant about the VR1, thanks. =D

I write off anything that says Racing....very VERY few of us use our cars under race conditions only. Just because something is used in a car that's started up ONCE under ideal conditions, run at redline at normally ideal conditions, shutdown, then torn apart and rebuilt with fresh oil and filter every 500-1,500 miles or less has absolutely nothing in common with 99.999% of the cars on the road. Not mentioning most full blown all out race cars have a special mix formulated specific to their situation...with additives and detergents not being a concern when they are more worried about heat resistance.

As for the VR1, Valvoline refuses to publicize what their base is on the VR1. I'm going to assume it's a group III oil blend with a little POA like the rest of the "synthetics"...especially considering it's price.

i'm discouraged by it all, don't know what to say or what to do....it's like looking for the corner in a round room

[Turbodude06]

use the regular stuff do you'r oil changes on time, save money, always have clean oil, clean oil means clean motor, clean motor means beter gas mileage, OK u get the point all I'm saying is synthetic is made to last what 5,000 miles rather then the average 3,000 but its like 4 times as much do the math....

[speedminded]

use the regular stuff do you'r oil changes on time, save money, always have clean oil, clean oil means clean motor, clean motor means beter gas mileage, OK u get the point all I'm saying is synthetic is made to last what 5,000 miles rather then the average 3,000 but its like 4 times as much do the math....

no matter how often you change a lower grade oil there is going to be buildup with it...I'd still rather use a better oil and change it just as much

I'm looking at making a formula using a real synthetic made for diesel engines, they seem to have the most detergents but I'm trying to figure out what mixing it with an ester based oil will do. Technically will be a group IV-V oil. Just have to keep all the tolerences within spec for our climate.

[Sushi]

I use mobil1 and I still change my oil every 3k miles.

[Z U L8R]

make me some 7.5w-30

i just don't feel peace with 2 qts of 10w-30 and 2 qts of 5w-30 = 7.5w-30 LOL

i'm using 5w-30 with lucas.....which by the way was really expensive so it better do something magical....it better lubricate my muffler bearings

[speedminded]

make me some 7.5w-30

i just don't feel peace with 2 qts of 10w-30 and 2 qts of 5w-30 = 7.5w-30 LOL

i'm using 5w-30 with lucas.....which by the way was really expensive so it better do something magical....it better lubricate my muffler bearings

I assume you're using the 'Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer'? It is available in 55 gallon drums

Creating 7.5w just means you can crank it in temperatures down to -22.5°C (-8.5°F) and the oil pump should be able to pick it up down to -32.5°C (-26.5°F) Really minor changes in that first number isn't that big of a deal, only a 5° differance between 5w & 10w.