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Thread: LSvtec "break-in" time..?

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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    Default LSvtec "break-in" time..?

    i just built an lsvtec, and am just getting it running with ARP head studs, rebuilt head and such.. i was wondering how long should i drive it to let all my internal parts settle down before i can start hitting vtAk and having a bit of fun with it? One of my friends said about 100 - 150 miles. I'm not sure though.


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    run that bish wide open

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    Oh Snap you finally got the engine built that is cool as hell man I can drive my car agian soon so I will be out and about on the 10th


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    If you allready went threw the idle process when you first cranked it up.. and you have been driving it allready...

    SHIT man Give that bitch HELL and break it in! seriously


    O and change your oil FIRST

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    Light Tuned
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    change ur oil after about 30miles then get the brand u want then just run it nothing will go wrong unless u didnt build it right

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    pshh in a week he will rebuild it again haha joel
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    just because I came in late I am leaving one two open haha

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    Barefoot Motorsports
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    i tell my customers to get to idle for 20 minutes shut down tow to dyno and while they are tuning it will break in.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot View Post
    i tell my customers to get to idle for 20 minutes shut down tow to dyno and while they are tuning it will break in.
    yep...especially since there isn't a "stock" computer that has the correct fuel/timing parameters for a ls/vtec.

    1. crank up and idle, while it's warming up bleed the cooling system. idle for 20-30 min.
    2. pop the throttle a few times after it's warm to help seat the rings. not really nec.
    3. change oil.
    4. tune.
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    x2^ what dos your build consist of?

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    ^ yes TUNE

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    ls/vtak slut! SlamminCRX's Avatar
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    when your slowing down try and just drop gears 1 by 1 and let them rideeeeeeee, heard it compresses the rings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SlamminCRX View Post
    when your slowing down try and just drop gears 1 by 1 and let them rideeeeeeee, heard it compresses the rings.
    i dont see a reason it would but correct me if im wrong.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot View Post
    i dont see a reason it would but correct me if im wrong.
    "It creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the shit out of the motor"

    learned that on honda tech and i did it to my motor, my shit ran great

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    Quote Originally Posted by SlamminCRX View Post
    "It creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the shit out of the motor"

    learned that on honda tech and i did it to my motor, my shit ran great
    can anybody confirm this?


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    Giggity Giggity Goo! southside's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot View Post
    can anybody confirm this?
    Yes that is true it helps the rings.You drive your car go into like second,Go through the rpms and little and let off.Its suppose to create vacuum and help rings seat.But Idk I still wait a thousand miles for mines to break in.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot View Post
    can anybody confirm this?
    popping the throttle a few times while it's idling will do the same thing while you're bleeding the cooling system and you're not far from home.
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    just dont lugg the motor

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    ^

    dnt think so..

    all of the rings should have been fine after the fist start/warm up....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black4DrEK View Post
    ^

    dnt think so..

    all of the rings should have been fine after the fist start/warm up....
    thats what i remember learning in school. after the first heat cycle your good.


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    ls/vtak slut! SlamminCRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot View Post
    thats what i remember learning in school. after the first heat cycle your good.
    yea i know that, when i did mine i just downshifted a lot for like he first 30 minutes, changed the oil and then just beat the fuck out of it lol

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    DONT FUCKING DOUBT BAREFOOT NOOB
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    you should of taken it to the track and break it in there.. imo:.
    or wide open on the dyno
    edit- on the motors i build, i usually on the first start up vary the rpms from idle to around 4.(going up and down with it). for a few mins then from 4 to 6 or 7 for another few mins. for a good total of around 15 mins then shut it off.
    then either take it to the track or dyno.
    (pops tought me that, and never have any problems with any of the motors i put together since.)
    Last edited by .:Stirfry:.; 09-30-2009 at 07:41 AM.

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    To help your rings seat, you want to decel and brake using the transmission. This creates the most amount of vacuum in the cylinder which pushes the rings out.

    If you had a QUALITY hone job and correct ring gaps, the rings should seat in the first 20-30min. If you have a shitty hone, then decel braking can help wear the rings in correctly
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    Quote Originally Posted by scttydb411 View Post
    popping the throttle a few times while it's idling will do the same thing while you're bleeding the cooling system and you're not far from home.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    To help your rings seat, you want to decel and brake using the transmission. This creates the most amount of vacuum in the cylinder which pushes the rings out.

    If you had a QUALITY hone job and correct ring gaps, the rings should seat in the first 20-30min. If you have a shitty hone, then decel braking can help wear the rings in correctly


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    also after it has ran a while , let it cool off and re-adjust the valves after they seat in they can be off a bit., every motor ive done i let it run about 20-30min , and do a oil change. if the motor is done rite you shouldent have to wait to get on it .it will hold together wheather if its 5 miles or 5,000.

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