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Thread: b20 idle problem?

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    Im blunt,Get over it blacknightteg's Avatar
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    Default b20 idle problem?

    alright so i got a new engine my car a week ago and i love it, i love the way it pulls and what have you. but i am a little concerned. when i start the car up in the morning after sitting all night it idles at about 1500 then it drops down to what looks to be between 7-500 rpm. i adjusted the idler screw to see if that would solve to problem as far as it idling to low a few days ago now it seems like it starts up high and then still kinda idles low. any idea on why that could be?
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    im down right fierce hadouken's Avatar
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    idle air control valve?
    or maybe the throttle cable is messed up?

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    IACV def. both of my b20's had the same problem....just swap them out




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    they normally idle high during warmup, but should drop to 750-850 when warm. iacv or fast idle valve if the tb has it is your issue. this is all assuming you're running the stock b20 ecu.

    other question...any cel?
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    im running my ls ecu on it. not the b20
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    my b16 idles high, like 1500 rpm on warm-up then drops to 7-750, that is normal, but if it is idling up and down after warm up then look at the IACV. i'm not sure but on your rear car do you have a sevice connector that you have to "jump" before doing throttle adj, timing, etc. my si is obd2-b and i have to jump the service connector first, if not whatever i adjust the ecu overrides. check your timing too and make sure it's good, then adjust the idle. what year is your car/ecu, etc i'll look it up in my book to see if you have a service connector.
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    what you said is all jibberish to me honestly. i have no idea about engines at all really. my car is a 94 teg.
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    part of the prob is poss using the ls ecu...lower displacement and different head=different fuel and timing maps than the b20.

    if you get a chipped ecu i can tune it or get a b20 ecu.
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    ^^ i would try that first. If that doesn't work, clean the iacv and see how that works.
    :idb:

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    fast idle thermal valve, tighten it almost all the way down. thats what we had to do to my boyfriends... fixed it, now its perfect!

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    does it jump from 1500 to 750 up and down, after its warmed up? Or does it just do this when you start it up when its cold.. if it does it just at startup...than thats normal warmup i thought?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scttydb411
    part of the prob is poss using the ls ecu...lower displacement and different head=different fuel and timing maps than the b20.

    if you get a chipped ecu i can tune it or get a b20 ecu.
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    i am planning on getting it tuned or chipped or what have you. but the only concern i have doing that is being able to pass emissions afterwards. since they scan vins of car and engine. i dont want to have those problems come december.
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacknightteg
    i am planning on getting it tuned or chipped or what have you. but the only concern i have doing that is being able to pass emissions afterwards. since they scan vins of car and engine. i dont want to have those problems come december.
    we just did DB4LYFEs b20 swap and it passed emissions perfectly so do wat amandda said, it works

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    did you adjust the idle properly?

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=195

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    Quote Originally Posted by se7en
    did you adjust the idle properly?

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=195

    -jonathan

    i was not told to disconnnect the IACv.
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacknightteg
    i was not told to disconnnect the IACv.
    reset the idle, i bet it fixes the majority of your issue.

    If you turn in the idle screw in while the IACV is online (to lower the idle) - it's just going to open further to pull more air in past the screw. Same story goes if you turn it in an attempt to raise it. The IACVs job is to keep that idle at the designated rpm (750+-50 in this case) - it does its best to do that regardless of where you put the screw until it maxes itself out internally (which is when the improper screw adjustment would become effective i guess).

    You might have known all that - but then again - maybe not.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scttydb411
    part of the prob is poss using the ls ecu...lower displacement and different head=different fuel and timing maps than the b20.

    if you get a chipped ecu i can tune it or get a b20 ecu.
    amen to the right ecu.
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    bump. i still am experiencing every once and a while a "putt" when in idle, what could that be?
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    going to get that on occasion if you've opened up the exhaust and not tuned it...you still may hear new noises like this after tuning. once it's tuned it should run and perform much better.
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    i may try to recet the idle again tomorrow. i did the disconnect of the IACv and the check engine light came on and freaked me the hell out. now when i did disconnect it, i didnt see it dop to 100 or what ever it was supposed to be at. what i wouldnt understand is if you disconnect the IACv, how are you going to get an accurate reading of the idle if it is not engaged?
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    the iacv isn't there to idle your car. It is there to smooth fluctuations and "catch" the engine when it drops from say 2k rpms to 0% throttle. Without it, the engine would die almost instantly.

    Your idle screw is what manually sets the idle, the iacv takes over from there.

    Yes, the engine is going to bog down and almost die when you unplug it with the engine running, however, that's just the name of the game. Its not going to hurt your engine if it stalls itself, but if you're having an issue with this - just back the screw out a few complete turns. The car will idle pretty high, but that's okay too. Turn the screw in increments of 1/4 turns, and you'll get it just fine.

    Good luck man
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    hmmm my crx with b20 swap idles a bit weird too and simliar to your case. Maybe ill get an answer from this thread as well lol. I did clean my IACV and it still fluctuates at idle. And no, my throttle body doesnt have a FITV which i heard contribute to the idling problem as well.

    However, I am running on a PR4 ECU which is obd1 since my car got converted from obd0 to ob1. As for your concern with emission related, it passes emission with flying color though.

    Also since u said that your rpm didnt drop 100 when removing the plug from the IACV i think it means that u might need a new one as stated from that site.

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    bump! im going to clean out my iacv, tomorrow. any ideas still?
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacknightteg
    bump! im going to clean out my iacv, tomorrow. any ideas still?
    Any updates on idling problem?

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