DIY swapping an AE92 4AGZE into a zenki AE86 GT-S.

[shubert]

the time has come.....

so ive had an ae86 coupe with a 20v.....meh, ive had an ae100 sedan with GZE....meh.
ive had an ae86 with a mild build 16v bigport.....uh, got a 16v bigport carbbed.....eh, its alright for now.

but the time has come to build an ae86 with gze. the gze was the first swap ive ever done.....but it was in a FWD configuration......that was about 11-12 years ago and it was a 94' geo prizm with an aw11 gze....drove that thing to high school in 99' back before toyotas were cool, and i dont think the geo's ever caught the cool trend.

so anyway, about a month ago i drove down to nad auto and picked up an ae92 levin front cut (btw i still have the good front clip if anyone wants to do an ae92 gt-s levin front conversion). destined to be an ae86 powerplant, it sat dormant in a storage building till last week. with priority of getting the carbed hatch daily reliable, so id have a reliable mode of transportation taking top priority, id take my test runs back and forth to the storage building. id take a few parts off the clip , adjust the carbs , go home, adjust the carbs, back to the shop, take off more parts....this went on , most of last week.

so as of friday afternoon, i had the gze free of the clip, loaded on a truck and at my house, getting tore down of all of its FWD configured parts. Saturday was spent getting the coupe in place, and prepped for its heart transplant. by saturday night i had the coupe engine hanging in the engine bay , with the exhaust header giving me problems.

sunday morning , im up at 8am , and under the hachi at 9, with an angle grinder...........bye bye exhaust. by noon , with the help of the wife the old 3 rib big ports sits on the ground with the tranny in front of the coupe. wash hands, clean up , eat lunch, grab camera.....

going into this , i want to give big thanks to "dilbeckskate" MSD has been a huge help with this project thus far.

[shubert]

so if your reading this , im assuming you have knowledge of pulling an engine. this guide starts with both engines side by side, what needs to be swapped , modified, or converted.

right off , i want to post this link. its pretty universal to all 4ag's. and has a table of torque specs. ive never had a problem following this PDF manual.
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_ca...agerebuild.pdf




1. you should have something that looks like this.......







2. remove this bracket 1st. this bracket asts as a brace for the bell housing against the block.






(A)

(B)

(C)

3. (A)next remove the top alternator bracket. (B)and swing the alternator down out of your way to get to the main bracket bolts. (C)remove the bolts and nuts that hold the bracket to the block. so far youve only used a 12mm and 14mm wrench, socket and ratchet.







4. now that the alternator main bracket is out of your way , you can get to the passenger side motor mount, remove it.








5. flip to the driver side of the engine, and remove the starter.









6. remove the driver side bell housing support brace.








7. remove 4 12mm bolts holding the a/c compressor onto its cradle. once the a/c comp. is moved youll see the assortment of 12mm and 14mm bolts holding the driver side accessory bracket on.





(A)

(B)

8. (A)once you remove the driver side accessory bracket, (B)the driver side engine mount bracket will slide right off.







9. remove the 4 17mm bolts holding the bell housing to the block , once these are removed you may need to use a prybar and rubber mallot to seperate the tranny from the block . remember the backing plate/dust sheild stays with the block. DO NOT strike the bell housing with a metal hammer!!! youll regret it if you do.

10. remove the 6 12mm bolts holding your clutch pressure plate to the flywheel, once bolts are out , it may take a few good taps on it , to free it from the dowel pins.

11. remove the 8 14mm flywheel bolts......yes , they are on there!!! no you wont break them.

12. remove the bell housing to block "flex plate" or "dust sheild". 2 10mm bolts.








you should now be looking at this.....

[shubert]

your gze block.....its easier to go ahead right off the bat and pull your wiring harness from your gze. youll have to remove a few things to completely remove the harness. i didnt get pictures of this , but these things include....

intercooler
intake to TB pipe
throttle body
J-pipe from TB to S/C
intake manifold from I/C plenum
cold start injector and hose
fuel rail and injectors
fuel line
timing gear cover
throttle cable bracket

i know this seems like alot , but it actually goes pretty smoothly. and might take 30 minutes tops, but being comfortable while doing harness conversions , will make you life alot easier. it sucks to be bent over a hood of a car sorting out wiring , and can wear your back out pretty quick. ill cover the wiring conversions, later in this thread when i get there.

remove the FWD clutch, flywheel , and dust cover in the same steps as the RWD above. the gze flywheel cannot be used with the gt-s bellhousing.


so now you have your gze minus wiring harness and some of the intake plumbing and accessories. should have something like this.......

[shubert]

(A)

(B)

13.(A) remove the gze FWD dust cover. (B) install your RWD gt-s dust cover in its place. if the rear main seal of your new engine needs to be changed....this is the best time to do it.






14. bolt the gt-s 3 rib flywheel onto the gze crank. these bolts are to be torqued down to 54 ft.lbs. in a star/criss cross patern like lugnuts on a wheel. using the back end(ratchet side) of an 11/16ths socket, hold the pilot bearing in place and gently tap the socket with a rubber mallot to seat the pilot bearing into the crank. youll know when your there.





(A)

(B)

15. (A)using your pilot tool , that comes with just about every clutch kit (if not, 7/8" 21 spline from auto parts store) slide the clutch plate onto it , then center the nipple into the pilot bearing.(B) align pressure plate with dowel pins and bolt holes. finger thread the 6 12mm bolts back into their places. these bolts are supposed to be torqued at 47 ft.lbs. and also tightened in a star pattern like lugnuts on a wheel.





to be continued...........

[dilbeckskate]

ha u can see my hands and legs like 2 times , cant wait for this shit to be done dude seriously