troubleshooting help. think hard.

[volk_ef9]

well we all know its better to think with more than one head combined.. i just put another b18a1 head in my da because the old head has a bent valve and i picked this head up for 50 bucks... long story short the head had nothing on it but the valvetrain.. all the sensors had to come off the old head,also i reused my intake mani and upper water neck. well long story short i got the car running today, but upon crank up it started idling at 3,000-3,400 rpm range, then as the motor warmed up it started to flux idle... i adjusted the fast idle screw all the way down and the lowest it got upon it warming up was 1,500-1,800 rpms... also the temp gauge goes straight to H. even in acc 3 it is still pegged on hot. so.. i got to thinking maybe a bad ground? but the only ground i busted loose was the valve cover ground.... if you pull the clip for the ect gauge sending unit it drops to cold on the gauge cluster but throws a check engine and and runs like ass..... i have bronchitis or however the fuck you spell it and my magnum is killing me on gas all i wanna do is fix this problem, so my brains pretty much crap right now so maybe someone can help or something... i still think bad ground somewhere but i didnt take any other ground loose, and sensors never threw a check engine before and there is nothing diff but the head. thanks and sorry for all the confusion!

[volk_ef9]

no one?

[cardesignz]

Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all of the vacuum lines - if they are old, I would go ahead and replace them. Did you use a new gasket on the intake manifold and clean off the old one really well? You did replace the head gasket and make sure the head and block were straight, right? Are all of the sensors screwed in completely? Is the temp gauge going up to H immediately or after it warms up? If it is immediate, something is wrong with the switch. If it is after it warms up, it's probably overheating. The fast idle screw should be screwed in and then backed off a turn.

[volk_ef9]

Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all of the vacuum lines - if they are old, I would go ahead and replace them. Did you use a new gasket on the intake manifold and clean off the old one really well? You did replace the head gasket and make sure the head and block were straight, right? Are all of the sensors screwed in completely? Is the temp gauge going up to H immediately or after it warms up? If it is immediate, something is wrong with the switch. If it is after it warms up, it's probably overheating. The fast idle screw should be screwed in and then backed off a turn.

all vaccums are where they need to go, i dremel'd off the old paper gasket and replaced it on the intake mani. headgasket is on properly and torqued to specs and is facing the right way up. the coolant gauge will go to hot when the car isnt even running it does it in accessory 3 position and yes the sensors are screwed in completly... im going to try and replace that one sensor tomorrow after i do a valve adjustment. its the damndest thing im going to look over wiring tomorrow too.. somewhere it seems something isnt making a proper ground..... because i have no CEL unless i unplug the ect sensor on the head.... its always something...

[volk_ef9]

i guess i will do it the old fashoined way.. seeing as there is no check engine light i guess there has to be a air leak somewhere so ill just use the old fashioned carb and choke trick and figure it out..... as far as the haywire temp gauge idk... maybe its faulty somehow even though it worked good in the other head.... i should be able to figure it out......

[volk_ef9]

Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all of the vacuum lines - if they are old, I would go ahead and replace them. Did you use a new gasket on the intake manifold and clean off the old one really well? You did replace the head gasket and make sure the head and block were straight, right? Are all of the sensors screwed in completely? Is the temp gauge going up to H immediately or after it warms up? If it is immediate, something is wrong with the switch. If it is after it warms up, it's probably overheating. The fast idle screw should be screwed in and then backed off a turn.

thanks for your input, when i figure out whats wrong with it i will let you know for future refrence in case someone else may have this problem.

[silverDA]

if this is a recent swap,check your main heater hose from the firewall and make sure its in the right inlet/outlet.there is 2 inlet/outlets side by side and same size,the main hose should be on the left not the right if that makes sense/

i had this hose in the wrong place and mine did the same thing read hott very quickly/

[volk_ef9]

cars timing was off by a tooth. it has a bottom end knock and i think the ect sensor is bad. im just gonna buy a b1 tomorrow and start fresh. so that explains the high idle and sputtering. but its ok. 10 more hp FTW.