• KEEP IT SIMPLE, Vteckidds Guide to NA

      I keep seeing these posts about these crazy setups that dont make any power, or people using these crazy JDM parts but dont make any power, and so on. Since I have owned some NA motors, built by me and built by others, i thought id share my .02.

      My Resume:
      187whp OEM built GSR
      237whp LSVTEC

      Now, where to start. Well ill start wit hyou guys with STOCK bottom ends. There is hope for you. You dont need to spend crazy money on big name parts to get power.

      First, pick a REALISTIC GOAL. What is your purpose for building? what is your BUDGET? how much time are you willing to take?

      On stock GSRs, 180whp is attainable with the right parts. I reccomend:
      ITR Cams
      -Be carefull about where you buy them as people claim STOCK GSR/B16 cams as ITR all the time. make sure you know what your buying, or buy them new.

      Skunk2 PRO1 Cams
      -Probably the BEST on the market. Great Midrange power, awesome topend power. VERY Affodable.

      Buddy Club 3+
      -Good cams, not bad power. Soft midrange, but decent top end. Would rather have PRO1s

      -Good cams, outdated profile, but proven. Too much money, PRO1s will make more power

      ValveSPrings and Retainers
      For MOST applications you can use Rocket Motorsports, OmniPower, Skunk2, Buddy CLub, TOda, etc.

      Rocket Motorsports Valvetrain: Kteller.com
      Skunk2 Pro Series Valvetrain: Nopi or Skunk2.com
      Omnipower: Kteller.com or Omnipowerusa.com
      Buddy CLub : Kteller.com

      If you use the BIGGER CAMS on the market (Skunk2 PRO2s, BC 4 or BC 5s) you need to use the Skunk2 PRO series valvesprings an retainers. Heres why:
      Their are certain characteristics to valvetrain that you need to be aware of when selecting your camshaft. High lift and duration camshafts have a great effect of causing coilbind. If you run WEAKER Springs rates with big cams, the springs will coilbind (touch) and cause you to drop a valve, smash valve stem seals, or cause upward force on the rocker arm pad which will wear out costly Honda rocker arms and your camshafts.

      Contrary to what people say, Titanium retainers are PERFECTLY FINE. i have used ROcket Motorsports, Omni power, SKunk2 numerous times over the last 4 years with NO ISSUES. as long as they are installed correctly, valve adjustments done when neccesary, and cams an head are inspected occasionally, youll have no problems. dont be scared to run them.

      Many people overlook valves. You definetly should NOT. If your spending $500 on cams and $300 on valvetrain, why are you going to trust 5-15 year old stock valves? FOr mild setups its ok. but once you switch to bigger cams, bigger springs and ret, its time to start looking at valves.

      Ferrea Valves
      Best in the business IMHO. Stainless steel, EXCELLENT quality, awesome price. you can get them if you look hard enough for $11 a piece, sometimes cheaper. They are excellent in terms of resistance to heat, detonation and breaking. WHat i always like about Ferreas is that 9/10 times if you get contact from them to a piston , they BEND, not BREAK. CHeaper valves break an shatter an usually take a piston or sleeve with them. Ferreas tend not to.

      Omnipower Valves
      Great flow characteristics, great price, shatter like glass LOL. These are REALLY good valves, but your giving up some things when you run them. THe omnis are a 2 piece design and made of a metal that likes to shatter. If you ever overrev or get conatc, they will shatter the face of the valve off and take your bottom end with them. Not a bad valve but be carefull .

      Skunk2 Valves
      Like Omnis, great valve, but can break if they encounter contact.

      Supertech Valves
      Very good company, very good product. Highly reccomend.

      REV Valves
      Very good company, very good product, have used, and would use again

      Unless your shooting for 260-300whp, KEEP STOCK VALVES. Running oversized valves just creates clearance problems and issues . YOu have to remember that in an NA motor, your running bigger cams, higher piston domes, and that means stuff operates VERY close to each other. Run an oversize valve, and your asking for valve to valve or valve to piston issues.

      DC JDM 4-1 with 2.5in collector
      -the MINIMUM you should be running. Tried an true, it can be found for as cheap as $200.

      Replica Headers (can be found on ebay or Honda-tech. I recommend the RMF Narrow Replica 4-1
      -Most power for the buck

      -Been around a LONG TIME, QUality is second to none, still hard to get ahold of as waits can last 4-6 weeks and longer. $650+


      This is probably the aspect of NA that gets overlooked or overtalked about. everyone is quick to throw around the words Port and Polish without really knowing what it means.

      It is my PERSONAL experience that Stock Honda heads can support 185-190whp before they hit a wall flow wise. I have buillt and dynoed OEM motors with stock heads (port and chamber wise) that have made 185whp. Now, heres my guidlines for porting a head:

      1) What year an what mileage is your cylinder head? if its a 14 year old B16 OBD0 head, you probably would be wise to invest in a 3 angle valve job and replace the valves. It would probably be wise to get all the guides checked as well.

      2) POrting as i said is not really neccesary on a stock bottom end. WHat will make a BIG Difference however is a VALVE JOB. Youd be suprised the amount of power you can pick up with a proper valve job.

      3) If you insist on having your head ported, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE leave it to a professional. Some places i reccomend are:
      DFE ENterprises
      Scots Machine Shop
      Ball ENgine and Machine
      Mainstream Performance
      RLZ Engineering


      Now if you decide that you want to swap pistons out, here is what i reccomend.

      If its a stock OEM piston you want to use, then i would reccomend the PR3 Piston from the B16 in a 1.8L motor. This piston in a GSR/LS block gives a nice moderate compression of around 11.5:1. Great for pump gas, street setups. Not alot of money to buy them.
      If you have a B16, your handicapped as any other B series OEM pistons will yield LESS than stock compression (with the exception of the CTR Piston)

      Highest compression is not the best. Stay away from CTR pistons in 1.8l blocks as you will have an astronomicaly high comp ratio and makes for a very inefficient motor.

      Ill reccomend a CTR Piston only in a B16 engine where you really have no other choice when it comes to an OEM piston.

      If you decide to go with a forged piston, Youve chosen a path with many options. This is the time to figure out what is the goal with your motor, do you plan to spray on it at anytime? what is a realistic HP goal, what cams will you be running, etc.

      CP Pistons:
      I love them, i ran them in my 2.0l LSVTEC motor , never had a problem out of them. Great design, great price, GREAT RINGS.

      JE Pistons:
      Good pistons, HATE their rings. JE has low tension oil control rings which are prone to making your motor smoke like a chimney. I would buy their pistons, but use CP RINGS.

      Wiseco Pistons:
      Great company, great product, built a few motors with their pistons , very similar to CP.


      Sp you chose to stay with factory ROds. Good for you, they are pretty strong.
      GSR RODS
      ARP Rod bolts are your friend. when building an OEM motor, be sure to spend the $50 to pick up a set. GSR rods with ARP bolts can withstand 9500rpm pulls pretty regularly.

      LS/B20 RODS
      The weakest of the B series rods, they have smaller rod bolts and wider bearings. Not good for high revs. If you have to stick with these, i would strongly reccomend ARP fasteners, and balancing. DO NOT SHOTPEEN. I would also get them cryo treated for added insurance, Pro-cryo.com does cryo by the pound, so its inexpensive for added security.

      B16 RODS
      THe old faithfull rods. Can be revved to 9000+rpms stock. Short stroke, well rounded motor. Id still use ARP fasteners, but they can last awhile at the high revs.


      When using FORGED PISTONS, purchase FORGED rods. Its almost too easy to get rods nowadays due to their price an abundance.

      Tried an true, cheap, can be found for under $300. Bullet proof, GET THE BIG BOLTS ARP2000 style. I revved mine to 9800rpms with no problems. A little on the heavy side, but will suffice.

      so you stepped up to the big plate big baller. these rods are lighter, stronger, custom made. you are the NA king, but it costs $800-1200 for rods now

      so you stepped up to the big plate big baller. these rods are lighter, stronger, custom made. you are the NA king, but it costs $800-1200 for rods now
      Stock is best. I see people "knife-edging" and doing all sorts of crazy shit. Its NOT NEEDED. I made 237whp with a STOCK OFF THE SHELF unworked LS crank. I reccomend that you balance and chamfer your crank, but otherwise leave it UNTOUCHED. there is no need to knife-edge or cut down a crank. your playing with a major engine compenent that was well thought of from the factory.

      Stroker kits , BAD NEWS. Stroker kits lessen the life of a motor drastically. Stroker kits were never designed to be bolt in affairs even though they claim to be. To really utilize a stroker kits potential, you need to figure out the ride size rod and right piston pin height along with deck height an compression. You also need to know what R/S ratio you are running to determine where the motor can rev to. They can work if BUILT and USED professionally, but thats almost never the case. Stroker cranks change the geometry of the motor, so you need to compensate for that.

      If you want discplacement, get it from the BORE.

      Boreing a motor is the safest way to get more power and discplacement. You can keep factory honda geometry of the rods, crank and get more liters by boring a motor out.

      Stock honda sleeves B16, LS, GSR can go up to .40/1mm over. Stock bore is 81mm. YOu cna go up to 82mm on a STREET motor.

      If you sleeve,
      84.5mm will make your 1.6L motor a 1.8L
      84.5mm will make your 1.8l motor a 2.0l

      Typically you bore when you get new pistons an ringsets. Most people will do a .10/.25mm or .20/.50mm over.

      Here are some engine combos that we have done an what power they have made, just to give you an idea what certain motors/parts can make.

      1) Username: Sticky
      Engine: GSR B18C1
      Block: OEM STOCK
      Head: OEM STOCK
      Camshafts: Integra Type-R
      Valvetrain: OEM Stock
      Header: Hytech/Rage header
      Intake manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series
      Throttle Body: 70mm Skunk2 Pro Series

      Engine Output: 179whp/125TQ

      2) Username: DA_UNKNOWN
      Engine: GSR B18C1
      Block: OEM ITR Pistons
      Head: Skunk2 Digital CNC Ported Head
      Camshafts: Skunk2 Pro1s
      Valvetrain: Skunk2 Pro Series Springs and Retainers/Skunk2 Valves
      Header: RMF Header
      Intake manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series
      Throttle Body: 70mm Skunk2 Pro Series

      Engine Output: 202whp/137TQ

      3) Username: Mr. Kidd
      Engine: LSVTEC sleeved 2.0L
      Block: CP Pistons, Eagle Rods
      Head: DFE Enterprises Street Ported Head
      Camshafts: Skunk2 Pro3s
      Valvetrain: Rocket Motorsports SLX Valvetrain/Ferrea Valves
      Header: RMF Header/Hytech/TDF
      Intake manifold: AEBS Lightly Ported by DFE Enterprises
      Throttle Body: 70mm Skunk2 Pro Series

      Engine Output: 237whp/159TQ

      4) Username: None
      Engine: H22
      Block: OEM STOCK
      Head: OEM STOCK
      Camshafts: Skunk2 Pro1s
      Valvetrain: Skunk2 Pro Series Springs and Retainers/Skunk2 Valves
      Header: RSR Header
      Intake manifold: OEM STOCK
      Throttle Body: OEM STOCK

      Engine Output: 192whp/146TQ
      This article was originally published in forum thread: KEEP IT SIMPLE, Vteckidds Guide to NA started by Vteckidd View original post
      Comments 158 Comments
      1. bigdare23's Avatar
        bigdare23 -
        damn, just leave a brother hanging!!! I'm trying to take notes here!
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
        ME TOO!!
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
        I've notice alot of tuners much rather build b and d series than the h series. Why is that? Dont get my wrong i LOVE any honda motor, but it seems b and d are more favorable.
      1. bigdare23's Avatar
        bigdare23 -
        it dont take that long to eat a meal!
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
        updated, ill add more later
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
        WOW which bible is he reading??
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
        Can I use this info 4 my H?
      1. o_bomb's Avatar
        o_bomb -
        Proper valve job(not porting) will pick up power in a stock block?
      1. wantboost's Avatar
        wantboost -
        Thank-you +1
      1. SLow_POke's Avatar
        SLow_POke -
        NICE mike you should STIcky for future questions. (when ur done)

        and you took my cheap OEM build and laid it out , most of it LOL.
        cant forget tuning,
        nice bible, lol

      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
        Quote Originally Posted by omar View Post
        Proper valve job(not porting) will pick up power in a stock block?
        yes. Most OEM bottom end builds dont have enough compression to push a good ported head. THats why a valve job will get you more power.

        Power is in the valve job. These theories and advice can be used with the H series as well. The H series are even more simple than B series. you can do stock Bottom ends with Cams, an a header an hit 200-210whp. Hell, Goinfasterthanu has a STOCK H22 with a DC Header that makes 193whp
      1. KevinT707's Avatar
        KevinT707 -
      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
        while i appreciate your input kevin, i have not seen proof that those EBAY headers make the same power as the DC Header. The DC uses bigger primaries, most of the headers i have seen of yours or EBAY style arent quite the same.

        Im listing PROVEN name brand products, until i see a PROVEN ebay company, im leaving it out. You get what you pay for

        VALVETRAIN and VALVES added in the middle
      1. 2.0civic's Avatar
        2.0civic -
        great write up +1. mike i got a write up ive been compiling for about a week that im going to post later tonight but ill let you scope it out when i get it complete
      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
      1. Big Baller's Avatar
        Big Baller -
        I've looked at a lot of Honda heads while hanging out and various shops and the one thing that I've noticed about most of the heads that made good power is that they have had very little material actually removed. Somebody didn't just go in and go buck wild with a grinder.

        Its about quality not quantity.
      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
        the V8 man speaketh the trutheth
      1. HalfBaked's Avatar
        HalfBaked -
        Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Vteckidd View Post
        If you sleeve,
        84.5mm will make your 1.6L motor a 1.8L
        84.5mm will make your 1.8L motor a 2.0L
        Is there a difference btwn L and l?
      1. Vteckidd's Avatar
        Vteckidd -
        yeah my lack of typing skills LOL
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