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Thread: some amp help

  1. 09-23-2009, 03:06 PM #1
    Just_lookin
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    Default some amp help

    ok so im trying to wire a second amp into my car to run my components... how would i run power to the second amp... i tried to just tap into my existing amp via power to power ground to ground and remote to remote... but i blew the fuse....

    any help would be appreciated and rep'd
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  2. 09-23-2009, 03:16 PM #2
    garrick
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    get a distribution block. They some for two or three amps, thats the most ive seen tho. You can ground it to the same place you ground your first amp and the remote wire can be ran from the first amp to the second.
    95 240sx
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  3. 09-23-2009, 03:17 PM #3
    garrick
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    http://img.alibaba.com/photo/5090285...tion_Block.jpg
    95 240sx
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  4. 09-23-2009, 10:38 PM #4
    Just_lookin
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    much appreciated man
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  5. 09-23-2009, 11:06 PM #5
    DynamicSound
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    You keep blowing the fuses because the amount of power both amps are pulling are too much for the fuse in place...maybe the gauge wiring too. Adding a D. Block will not help unless you up the fuse up front and maybe run larger wires.

    If you let me know what exact amps you are running and what gauge wire you have, I can tell you for sure.

    Ideally, you will want to run a large enough wire from the battery to where the amps are mounted. Then use a fused d. block to split the power to go to the amps. Then ground them seperately. You can also use a ground d. block if the wires are short enough.
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  6. 09-23-2009, 11:12 PM #6
    Just_lookin
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    Quote Originally Posted by DynamicSound View Post
    You keep blowing the fuses because the amount of power both amps are pulling are too much for the fuse in place...maybe the gauge wiring too. Adding a D. Block will not help unless you up the fuse up front and maybe run larger wires.

    If you let me know what exact amps you are running and what gauge wire you have, I can tell you for sure.

    Ideally, you will want to run a large enough wire from the battery to where the amps are mounted. Then use a fused d. block to split the power to go to the amps. Then ground them seperately. You can also use a ground d. block if the wires are short enough.

    well i was blowing the fuse to the amp i was trying to hook up... i have a 4g power wire running from my batt... its huge had to trim it down to fit in my amp... the amp is a power acoustiks 1250 watt bamf.. (used for my sub) and i am trying to hook up a amercan pro 200watt amp to power my boston cross overs... the amp i have hooked up hs to much power for the components... thanks for your help mann it is much appreciated
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  7. 09-23-2009, 11:21 PM #7
    DynamicSound
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_lookin View Post
    well i was blowing the fuse to the amp i was trying to hook up... i have a 4g power wire running from my batt... its huge had to trim it down to fit in my amp... the amp is a power acoustiks 1250 watt bamf.. (used for my sub) and i am trying to hook up a amercan pro 200watt amp to power my boston cross overs... the amp i have hooked up hs to much power for the components... thanks for your help mann it is much appreciated
    Just add a fused d. block to the 4 gauge wire. Then run 8 gauge wiring to each amp. Say 100 amp fuse up front, 40 amp fuse to the american pro amp, and 60 amp fuse to the power acoustiks. The Power Acoustiks amp only puts out 560rms bridged...so 8 gauge is more than enough.
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  8. 09-23-2009, 11:25 PM #8
    Just_lookin
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    Quote Originally Posted by DynamicSound View Post
    Just add a fused d. block to the 4 gauge wire. Then run 8 gauge wiring to each amp. Say 100 amp fuse up front, 40 amp fuse to the american pro amp, and 60 amp fuse to the power acoustiks. The Power Acoustiks amp only puts out 560rms bridged...so 8 gauge is more than enough.

    only 560 bridged???? so how would i get the 1250 out of it? or how can they even say its a 1250watt??? im sorry but car audio has always had me
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  9. 09-23-2009, 11:28 PM #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_lookin View Post
    only 560 bridged???? so how would i get the 1250 out of it? or how can they even say its a 1250watt??? im sorry but car audio has always had me
    That amp doesn't put out 1250 watts...that is their max BS rating. 560rms is the most true power you will get out of it and that is bridged at 4ohms. Even then, that might be overrated. To be honest, Power Acoustik is a very low quality amp.

    http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/...O_amp_BAMF.htm
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  10. 09-23-2009, 11:30 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DynamicSound View Post
    That amp doesn't put out 1250 watts...that is their max BS rating. 560rms is the most true power you will get out of it and that is bridged at 4ohms. Even then, that might be overrated. To be honest, Power Acoustik is a very low quality amp.

    http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/...O_amp_BAMF.htm


    well damn.... i guess its a good thing i only paid 65$ for it @ a pawn shop
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  11. 09-23-2009, 11:32 PM #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_lookin View Post
    well damn.... i guess its a good thing i only paid 65$ for it @ a pawn shop
    Yeah, can't beat $65.
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  12. 09-23-2009, 11:35 PM #12
    Just_lookin
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    Quote Originally Posted by DynamicSound View Post
    Yeah, can't beat $65.

    not at all... thanks again for the help mann... i realy do appreciate it...

    oh i have ben lookin at your site... exactly how much will it be to put hid's on my 240?
    i have ben told i would have to but a new housing cuz its a sealed beam.. is that true?
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  13. 09-23-2009, 11:38 PM #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_lookin View Post
    not at all... thanks again for the help mann... i realy do appreciate it...

    oh i have ben lookin at your site... exactly how much will it be to put hid's on my 240?
    i have ben told i would have to but a new housing cuz its a sealed beam.. is that true?
    Yes, that is correct. Here you go...

    Sealed Beam Conversion - $40
    Lo Beam Only HID Kit - $55
    Hi/Lo Beam HID Kit - $85
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  14. 09-23-2009, 11:41 PM #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DynamicSound View Post
    Yes, that is correct. Here you go...

    Sealed Beam Conversion - $40
    Lo Beam Only HID Kit - $55
    Hi/Lo Beam HID Kit - $85

    so 95-125

    now is that installed or just the kits alone

    and thats the price for all colors and i guess you call it heat... ie 800k-1200k
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  15. 09-23-2009, 11:43 PM #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just_lookin View Post
    so 95-125

    now is that installed or just the kits alone

    and thats the price for all colors and i guess you call it heat... ie 800k-1200k
    That is for the product alone. I am working out some new installation prices, so I can have something to you by next week. All colors are included.
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  16. 09-23-2009, 11:47 PM #16
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    that works... now i have to try and come up w/ some $$$$$$ lol... but still thats a good price... id rep u all day if i could... you have ben very helpful.. and i will try and send some customers your way when i get the word for ppl lookin
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  17. 09-26-2009, 02:08 PM #17
    garrick
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    Also, about the amp blowin fuses (correct me if im wrong). When amps get old they will start to melt fuses... I had a cheap pk amp do that after a couple years.
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  18. 09-26-2009, 03:00 PM #18
    lovinmydodge
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    hey I'm off Cooper rd in loganville. If you still have problems or need an extra hand pm me and we can get together Audio is my thing lol. just lemme know!
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