Long term effects

[GIXXERDK]

Will I get new rattles in the car after a long use of subs? Thinking about getting a 12inch JLw7.

[mocha latte cupcake]

what? i can't hear you my subs are too loud.... dynamat is your friend

[kingkong]

^^^^^ what he said

[WHT_EP3]

dynamat is expensive... but it works

[patrick4588]

its not too bad after employee discount

[SRCRX]

its not too bad after employee discount

X2^^,But yes to answer your question, it will losen things up over time
What kind of car??

[GIXXERDK]

04 TL

Is it possible to lay dynamat all over your car and not just your doors, trunk, and floor?

[bandydesign]

04 TL

Is it possible to lay dynamat all over your car and not just your doors, trunk, and floor?

Depends how much you want to take apart, it'll stick to anthing lol. Anybody know if the aftermarket "Dynamats" are just as good???

[SRCRX]

Depends how much you want to take apart, it'll stick to anthing lol. Anybody know if the aftermarket "Dynamats" are just as good???

What are you talking about??>> "Dynamats"

[bandydesign]

Dynamat is the brand that makes the sound insulation that you put in cars, am I correct? I know that other various brands make imitation versions. What I am asking if the Dynamat brand is superior.

[DrewS2K]

i had dynamat in my trunk and it didnt stop alot of the rattling... and it looks ugly when its exposed

[SRCRX]

O, ok,There are some others,I've never used anything else,
It's just like everything else in the world you get what you pay for!!

If you use Dynamat, stick with Xtreme!!

[bandydesign]

O, ok,There are some others,I've never used anything else,
It's just like everything else in the world you get what you pay for!!

If you use Dynamat, stick with Xtreme!!

Xtreme.. ok :noted:

[TypeRPersonality]

Dynamat is overrated. It's expensive because of its name. It does work though, but you have to use a lot of it. B-Quiet is a cheaper and better alternative as it works better than Dynamat.

[bandydesign]

Dynamat is overrated. It's expensive because of its name. It does work though, but you have to use a lot of it. B-Quiet is a cheaper and better alternative as it works better than Dynamat.

Hey! There's the answer to my question reps bro thx.

[SRCRX]

Dynamat is overrated. It's expensive because of its name. It does work though, but you have to use a lot of it. B-Quiet is a cheaper and better alternative as it works better than Dynamat.

It's cheaper, But how is it better??

[yerrow]

add raamat too

[bandydesign]

raamat? Interesting never heard of it.

[bandydesign]

^^ x2

[TypeRPersonality]

B-Quiet is lighter, thinner, cheaper, and it's better because it reduces outside noise more than Dynamat.

http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

I haven't used it personally, but from the reviews I've read, I'll be installing this instead of Dynamat.

[SRCRX]

B-Quiet is lighter, thinner, cheaper, and it's better because it reduces outside noise more than Dynamat.

http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

I haven't used it personally, but from the reviews I've read, I'll be installing this instead of Dynamat.

http://www.b-quiet.com/civic.html <<My friends Civic, He was given a Some
to try, what he put on his ceiling came off in a mouth!!

I was looking at the installs and found his car which he did some SQ
stuff last yr.

[TypeRPersonality]

http://www.b-quiet.com/civic.html <<My friends Civic, He was given a Some
to try, what he put on his ceiling came off in a mouth!!

I was looking at the installs and found his car which he did some SQ
stuff last yr.

First off, you mean that Civic on that page is your friend's car? And was it installed properly? Meaning did he clean it free of dirt and oil and use a heat gun to apply?

That's a bit strange for it to fall off. I don't plan to use it for my headliner anyways though. I've used Dynamat before, it's okay I guess. But I'm willing to give this a try.

[SRCRX]

First off, you mean that Civic on that page is your friend's car? And was it installed properly? Meaning did he clean it free of dirt and oil and use a heat gun to apply?

That's a bit strange for it to fall off. I don't plan to use it for my headliner anyways though. I've used Dynamat before, it's okay I guess. But I'm willing to give this a try.

Ya, He Was givin some a FEW years back, so they could put a civic on there site, I had forgoten about it until we started talking about the brand, He
tryed to get me to use some, But at the time I had no need for it
he used a heat gun (I'm Sure ) . He had great things to say about it
until summer time, when it started to melt down thru his suade headliner

But,I would guess the Dynmat could do the same thing, Has anyone used
dynamat on there headliner??

[sina518]

dynamat extreme, no need to clean and prep like you do with all other brands just peel and stick and you dont want thin, and light because the whole point is to stop vibration, and it just simply works.

[TypeRPersonality]

dynamat extreme, no need to clean and prep like you do with all other brands just peel and stick and you dont want thin, and light because the whole point is to stop vibration, and it just simply works.

Even with Dynamat, you're supposed to clean and prep. If it's thinner and lighter and works better, there's no reason I wouldn't give it a try. I haven't heard anything bad about any sound deadener. As far as I'm concerned, it's all the same.

[JDMef88]

**** b-quiet and dyanamat...turn your subs up louder and u wont here the rattles anymore ...ghetto rattle remover FTW

[SRCRX]

LoL

[.blank cd]

Brown bread is superior to all

[Allstar3.8T]

It can rattle the car a bit, I had a 99 Si w/ 8 12"s and 4400 watts on them, no dynamat, no rattles, ever. Ask anyone who heard it, it would pound, and it was my daily driver also. Dynamat helps alot, but if the car is new and tight, you dont have to start there, I sold my car before it got to be a rattletrap.

[redgst97]

Not all sound dampers are created equally. Not by a long shot. Thats like saying all steaks are created equally. Test the difference between a cube-steak from a Hungry Man dinner and a filet mignon from Stoney River....NOT the same. Sound dampers are the same way...there are differences thicknesses and qualities. Different designs are made for different results (problems).

There are also sound dampers (to help prevent rattles (distortion)) as well as sound absorbers (to help limit (or block) reflections). Sound absorbers are things like foam. Depending on the thickness, material, and makeup of the foam, it will have different results. A closed-cell foam will have different sonic effects compared to an open-cell foam. Nowdays, there are several combination foams with both a closed cell and open cell foam in 1 material. A good use for something like this is the firewall or floorboard. Put the closed cell side face down, which will help block transmission and road noise, and the open cell side face up, which will help absorb reflections. However, most typically put carpet back over the foam, which also helps.

With sound dampers, there are also a few different types. The least commong used today (but still effective) is a liquid (typically paste consistency) that you apply to panels. This transfers the vibrations of the panel into low grade heat. Not enough heat to worry about it heating up the car or panel, but still heat. Another type, and more common, is a mass loading mat. This is mostly what the mats are. They are designed to add mass (or weight) to the panel. This lowers the resonant frequency of the panel. By resonant frequency, I mean "rattle". A third type is call (sometimes) acoustical barrier or constrained layer. This is something like Dynamat Extreme. It takes the principles of mass loading (adding weight) a bit further, by adding a second layer of material (usually aluminum or similar). So, the metal of the panel you apply it to, and the otter portion of the mat are both metal. Togehter, they act as shock absorber, and will limit the amount ov vibration. Also, remember, that there is still the mass loading effect of the mat itself. So, you get a lower resonant frequency by adding weight, as well as a constraining layer to help lesses even more of the vibrations.

Older style mats are were asphalt based, which is why we had to run around town for a month with the windows rolled bown all the time...they car smelled like they just paved the trunk... Which is also why we had to burn our fingers with a heat gun...the asphalt based mat was thick and not pliable (wouldnt bend to the countours of a car door or floor panel). We heated it up so it would bend and conform to the panel. Also, they typically used heat activated adhesives. If you dont get the adhesive hot, it wont stick.

Next was the vinyl based mats. These were a progression from the basic mass loading mat, but not quite an aluminum backed constrained layer mat. They lessened the odor of the asphalt mats, but did not quite hit the mark of the aluminum backed mats. Problem was (IMO) adhesive would seperated from the mat itself over time, which would result in it falling off or releasing. They did not like to be frozen, which is not as much a problem here in Georgia as it might be in upstate New York. They became brittle over time.

So, whats the best formula? Depends.

ANY damping you do will help in some way.

I have a car with ALL of the above mentioned materials within the car. There are 7 gallons of liquid damping, boxes upon boxes of Dynamat Extreme, and about 4 different types of foam within the car. I have had Dynamat on the roof of the car for almost 10 years now with zero issues.

For those thinking putting mat on the roof af the car....the roof is typically the largest flat manel with the car...it will vibrate the most. The floor of you car has ridges in ti. This is for strength, and helps eliminate vibration (rattles). The doors and trunk area are ususally the first to get matted. Why? the energy from the speakers causes the panels to vibrate/rattle. If the door metal you mounted the speaker to was 1/4" thick...it probably wound rattle as much. Thats because it more ridgid, weighs more, and therefore has a lower resonant frequency (frequency at which it will vibrate/rattle).

Just a bit of information I picked up along the way.....

[ahmonrah]

Not all sound dampers are created equally. Not by a long shot. Thats like saying all steaks are created equally. Test the difference between a cube-steak from a Hungry Man dinner and a filet mignon from Stoney River....NOT the same. Sound dampers are the same way...there are differences thicknesses and qualities. Different designs are made for different results (problems).

There are also sound dampers (to help prevent rattles (distortion)) as well as sound absorbers (to help limit (or block) reflections). Sound absorbers are things like foam. Depending on the thickness, material, and makeup of the foam, it will have different results. A closed-cell foam will have different sonic effects compared to an open-cell foam. Nowdays, there are several combination foams with both a closed cell and open cell foam in 1 material. A good use for something like this is the firewall or floorboard. Put the closed cell side face down, which will help block transmission and road noise, and the open cell side face up, which will help absorb reflections. However, most typically put carpet back over the foam, which also helps.

With sound dampers, there are also a few different types. The least commong used today (but still effective) is a liquid (typically paste consistency) that you apply to panels. This transfers the vibrations of the panel into low grade heat. Not enough heat to worry about it heating up the car or panel, but still heat. Another type, and more common, is a mass loading mat. This is mostly what the mats are. They are designed to add mass (or weight) to the panel. This lowers the resonant frequency of the panel. By resonant frequency, I mean "rattle". A third type is call (sometimes) acoustical barrier or constrained layer. This is something like Dynamat Extreme. It takes the principles of mass loading (adding weight) a bit further, by adding a second layer of material (usually aluminum or similar). So, the metal of the panel you apply it to, and the otter portion of the mat are both metal. Togehter, they act as shock absorber, and will limit the amount ov vibration. Also, remember, that there is still the mass loading effect of the mat itself. So, you get a lower resonant frequency by adding weight, as well as a constraining layer to help lesses even more of the vibrations.

Older style mats are were asphalt based, which is why we had to run around town for a month with the windows rolled bown all the time...they car smelled like they just paved the trunk... Which is also why we had to burn our fingers with a heat gun...the asphalt based mat was thick and not pliable (wouldnt bend to the countours of a car door or floor panel). We heated it up so it would bend and conform to the panel. Also, they typically used heat activated adhesives. If you dont get the adhesive hot, it wont stick.

Next was the vinyl based mats. These were a progression from the basic mass loading mat, but not quite an aluminum backed constrained layer mat. They lessened the odor of the asphalt mats, but did not quite hit the mark of the aluminum backed mats. Problem was (IMO) adhesive would seperated from the mat itself over time, which would result in it falling off or releasing. They did not like to be frozen, which is not as much a problem here in Georgia as it might be in upstate New York. They became brittle over time.

So, whats the best formula? Depends.

ANY damping you do will help in some way.

I have a car with ALL of the above mentioned materials within the car. There are 7 gallons of liquid damping, boxes upon boxes of Dynamat Extreme, and about 4 different types of foam within the car. I have had Dynamat on the roof of the car for almost 10 years now with zero issues.

For those thinking putting mat on the roof af the car....the roof is typically the largest flat manel with the car...it will vibrate the most. The floor of you car has ridges in ti. This is for strength, and helps eliminate vibration (rattles). The doors and trunk area are ususally the first to get matted. Why? the energy from the speakers causes the panels to vibrate/rattle. If the door metal you mounted the speaker to was 1/4" thick...it probably wound rattle as much. Thats because it more ridgid, weighs more, and therefore has a lower resonant frequency (frequency at which it will vibrate/rattle).

Just a bit of information I picked up along the way.....

ummm......HOLEE SHYT!

"I'LL JUST GUT MY INTERIOR AND TAKE MY CAR TO HIM...."

[redgst97]

ummm......HOLEE SHYT!

"I'LL JUST GUT MY INTERIOR AND TAKE MY CAR TO HIM...."

OK.

[5thgcelica]

^^^^ id listen to him, he knows what he's talkin about


mr J Marsh, how have you been sir?

[Allstar3.8T]

John....ouch, my brain hurts now.
Ironic how he most noise he's made on these forums in a year is related to sound deadening....isn't it.

[5thgcelica]

John....ouch, my brain hurts now.
Ironic how he most noise he's made on these forums in a year is related to sound deadening....isn't it.

hey chupp.. what the hell u been doin... stop by the shop sometime soon!

[JessAlba452]

Everyone of you need to check out this REVIEW of nearly all sound deadening sheets that are made.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Totally agree with you redgst97

I did a whole lot of research before sound deadening my car. I had rattles on the deck with the stock bose subwoofer so you know that if I went with anything more it would be horrible.

Countless nights of looking up product reviews, customer feedback, then comparing prices to the quantity and quality of material took forever.

Reading up on which had the most (mm) of deadening I finally finally decided on Damplifier. It was the best bang for the buck.


The few sound deadening products I considered were: (In Order)

Sound Deadening Sheets
Cascade Audio - VB2-HD
Second Skin Audio - Damplifier / Pro
Dynamat - Dynamat / Extreme
Elemental Designs - Edead V1-SE
Stinger - Road Kill



Liquid Sound Deadening:
Second Skin Audio - Spectrum Sludge
Elemental Designs - Edead V3



-Cascade Audio really was my first choice, but their products even though well made were a bit too much for my budget and harder to work with. For the VB2-HD you will need a heatgun to apply the product. Unheated it resembles hard vinyl. Which is why I still have an unused roll.

-Dynamat and Dynamat Extreme were just overly expensive for the amount of deadening you received. Good quality material though.

-Elemental Designs was the cheapest of all, but sometimes you do get what you pay for. The material was very thin and can be compared to asphalt roofing sheets.

-Stinger Road Kill didn't offer enough sound deadening in bulk and hard to find other than on Ebay. A well known company in the car audio scene so I believe they have a good product.


I have looked into buying liquid sound deadening, but it is just a bit messier than using sheets. You will need to air out the car so that everything dries. I do have some Second Skin Spectrum Sludge, which I have not had the time to test out. So I will add onto this post later once I do.


Searching E-bay prices weren't low enough for sound deadening products. Once you added in shipping prices compared to the brick & mortar stores it was nearly the same price plus don't forget you have to wait on shipping.


I was VERY tempted to buy RAAMAT offered on E-bay for such low prices. Until I read the review I posted above, oh and read feedback about the smell.


What you have to watch out for with MANY of the other companies other than Dynamat is that they sometimes advertise that they are butyl based. In turn they really aren't and turn out to be "asphalt" based which once it gets hot makes your car smell like...well...asphalt. So keep that in mind.


Second Skin Audio is a small company based out in Arizona so their products have to withstand a lot of heat. I was interested in the fact I don't want my deadening material peeling and falling off in the hot GA summer.


Their prices are very bearable. I spent about $300 for over 160 sq ft of dampening material along with 50ft of their Overkill Pro line of foam dampening.


Customer service was awesome, and if you ever get to speak with Anthony himself he is a great guy. He has a lot of tips if you're just starting out.


Best of luck to anyone trying to get rid of those pesky rattles

PS: Don't forget to wear gloves. After 6 hours of working on deadening my hands were sliced up from the aluminum backing.

[myyellowspec]

Any opinions on fatmat? Way cheaper than dynamat and all of the reviews seem good.

[JessAlba452]

Any opinions on fatmat? Way cheaper than dynamat and all of the reviews seem good.

Fatmat and RAAmat are comparable products I believe.

Once you have your brands narrowed down.

What to pay attention for when buying deadener...

What base? (Butyl or Asphalt?)
Thickness? (mm)
Material? (Sq Ft)
How much? ($/Sq Ft)

That's how you will get the most for your money is by comparing the thickness of the sheet along with square feet you are getting for how much you'll be spending.

[MusicManG3]

Second skin seems to be the best you can get. Dynamat is just expensive. Hell you can get 12 dollar a roll home depot **** that is a aluminum covered butyl rubber. It'll take a few layers but is the same stuff. Something is far better than nothing. Even if you don't have rattles you'll hear a difference.

A single JL W7 should not shake your car to pieces though over time. If its going to rattle it'll rattle from day one. The only thing that will really cause additional rattles is ripping panels on and off.

[audiowiz]

hushmat is about half the price of dynamat. it comes in standard "tin and tar" as well as a black face material and three thicknesses of a foam damping material. its cool stuff. thier 58 sq. ft. pack is about the same price retail as the 36 sq. ft. dynamat extreme pack.