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turbogixxer is correct. going with a different geared tranny will affect the tune some. the car should be retuned when the tranny and fuel pump conversion is done. the pump conversion alone will throw the tune off as well since it will change the flow characteristics of fuel if it's working it heart out right now.
when mony's car was leaning out because of pump (reason 1 was it was a 190 when he thought it was a 255), but when he did the power upgrade it allowed to pump to fuel a little more when it got to higher cycles and obviously provided more fuel.
turbogixxer...on a side note, are you down in west palm beach? a couple people down there have called me to come down to tune their cars because their tuner is moving. i have no problem going down there since i have friends down there, but i'm looking for a lower cost alternative for the customer than for me to travel all the way down there.
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damn... sounds like Josh Green isnt a complete idiot after all.....
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updates??? tranny in yet??? whats up? :cheers:
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he ordered a tranny, but i doubt it will make much past 650ish. Its pretty much maxed out.
but the trans should allow him to actually track it
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it's called a tip table, and sometimes the tranny can have something to do with the tune. I have never tuned with any of the stuff you guys use. Just FAST, EFI Solutions, and the SCT Pro Racer Programs. But still it's all pretty much the same stuff.
One question for the owner of the car. Why don't you have the new tranny's gears face plated? it will still be streetable unlike building a proshifted tranny. And it will handle anything you can throw at it. Plus it's 10x quicker than a normal tranny. The only draw back is that it requires more maintainence. But look at it this way you drive a 600hp+ honda.... it's gonna need alotta upkeep.
700, hell even 600hp is very impressive on a single 255 Walbro, but the only thing is running 100% cycle duty on those pumps is harse. Just one recomendation to the tuner, or anybody who is using a pump that only needs a little more, or maybe a little more security can use a pump driver which is like a voltage amplifier. A bigger pump is not always the answer... to make it simple you have a 12v operating system. @ 12v a 255 LPH pump theoredically should run 255 LPH running a pump driver @ 17v produce up to 385 LPH WITHOUT killing the pump. And actaully Walbro has done many test running the pumps @ 17v with no problems, no current drops, nothing, but great results. Having too small of pump can also kill your injectors. Running those late night street races, running high voltage ignition systems, and even car stereo system robb your fuel pumps voltage... maybe your getting 11v-12.8vdc to your pump... well, it's killing it self to keep up with the injectors, and at this time, most of the tuners will have the injectors hung open in WOT @ 100% cycle duty, now your killing your injectors. Oh yeah... all the excess work from your pump & injectors causes more heat soak in the fuel. Fuel likes to be cold... this helps out with that too...
I know, I kinda went overboard on this, but oh well...
I'm only trying to help. I like to see shit like this...
PM me for more infomation.
-Andrew
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if i remember correctly there is an external relay and larger gauge wire to keep the pump voltage from sagging. also there are custom lines ran as well and the inj aren't maxed (thank god).
you're absolutely right and anyone thinking of making 450whp or more should always consider the pump mod and make sure to have an the next larger inj than you think you'll need. pushing inj at very high duty cycles is like playing a sub at full blast on a smaller amp for long periods of time w/ small gauge wire...the amp will get very hot, may fry the amp (cut off if it has thermal protection), or melt the fuse.
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this peice is like a line driver for an amplifier, ups the voltage to 17vdc @ the pump where larger wire and a relay you MAY seen 13.8vdc. if the battery is getting a decent charge 14v-14.4vdc. The other draw back is the correct way to utilize this is you will have a small spike in a/f until the hobbs switch from a source of vaccum reach boost, or a certain level of sensitivity. Many people will ask, why not run it the whole time? to tell you the truth, I can't truthfuly answer the question, I was just told by pump engineers that it's not a wise idea for the rest of the fuel system.
i have seen 375 LPH supply enough fuel to 55lb low impedence injectors to 805hp. 386 LPH should be more than plenty for reaching your goals unless your lines/fuel rail(s) are too small.
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your talking abouta fuel pump relay, SHHHHHH not everyone knows about that ;)
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Transmission was ordered last Friday. Should be here in the coming days.
Honestly, I'm happy with the power my car is making now. It's more than I'd ever *need* to use. Once I get some slicks, I'll be happy with my car.
At this point, all I want is a fine tune. I could care less if I don't make anymore power. If I make more power, cool. If we make the same power on less boost, great!
Only reason I'd want more power is to brag about it and make me feel cooler. In reality, 660HP vs 700HP won't make enough difference to me to put that much more stress on the engine.
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yeah while my engine is blown, i think im going to look at my tranny some.
