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Thread: H23 all motor

  1. #121
    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92ex
    i have seen one in person, and have helped tune it. It spun a bearing(naturally). It made h22 numbers.
    H22>G23
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  2. #122
    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Trying to push 250 from a stock block H23 is not a good idea. There is no way to do it cheaply or reliably. Good luck to the thread starter making 250 out of an H23, more power to you. There are limits and capabilities of all engines, there's only so much you can squeeze out of a stock engine before failure or power hits a wall then you are looking at costly options. BTW, this thread is full of stupid shit from a select few, if someone cleaned up the irrelevant, dumbass posts it might actually be something that people could learn something from.

  3. #123
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    yea no more BS about "G23's". lets talk realistically about possibilities for the H23. I gave my opinion about the drag turbo kit (T04e)
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotoronly
    (directed at 92ex)



    whatever man... did you not read any of my posts??? that shit is unreliable. I looked all over and found one that had made to to 20k miles... and its a F23 bottom end with a h23 non-vtec head. None with the H22A head last. partly because you have to block off 4 coolant passages, which eventually leads to warpage. Give it up. He has a H23, he wants to keep it a h23A... i guess you cant read what the guy who started this thread said. he wants to know how to get more power from his H23A not how to swap a F23 bottom end into it, which has shitty rods that are narrower and the hole on the crank shaft end is a lot smaller than the H22/23 rods.

    what the hell makes you think a "G23" with a stock h22a head and no mods will beat a stock H22A in HP? the ones I have seen make 160whp at the most with some bolt on-s. Hell even the turbo one only made 212whp. My jdm SiR S-Spec H22A made 204whp stock with intake and a catback. So after all that shit, the guy with the turbo "G23" only made 8 more hp than me. The ones with 270-300whp are built. This guy does not want to spend that much money, and especially on something that is not going to last 15k miles and eat a rod bearing.

    it seems you are the one who knows nothing of the "G23"

    BTW, quit calling it a G series... Honda already has one. Its the G25 found in the 2.5TL.

    The F23 bottom end/ H22A top end combination is a waste of time and money. Why not just buy a jdm H23 VTEC? you can get one for about $2300. Thats what it would cost you to build a "G23" that would last.

    Agreed!! listen to the man! DAMN!!

  5. #125
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjaccord
    Post number 42 in this thread:

    Log manifold
    t3/to4e
    wastegate-external dump
    FMIC
    DSM 450cc injectors
    Delta Cams-260 duration (Very mild, didn't change idle or anything)
    3" exhaust
    Wideband tuning @ 9psi

    With my older setup I put down 247 hp 231 tq

    That was with the stock h23, 8 psi, oem cams and everything else mentioned above (I have 550cc injectors but thats irellevant, I mentioned the 450's due to price)

    He wanted 250whp, thats about the best way to do it. He could even use the cams (200 bux) and run slightly less boost to get those numbers, with less wear and tear on the motor.

    L8r
    how much $$$ do you think you have in that setup? supposedly the Drag kit is good for about 240whp or so... it runs anywhere from $2500-3000.
    heres an add for the drag kit.
    DRAG Turbo kit includes:
    - Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
    - Turbonetics T4/T3 TO4E High flow turbocharger assembly
    - Turbonetics Delta gate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
    - Drag High Flow front mount intercooler w/ polished cast aluminum end tanks
    - Blitz blow-off valve
    - Drag mandrel bent high flow chrome plated pipes
    - Drag mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe
    - Drag wastegate dump tube assembly
    - Drag Blue silicone hose and hose clamps
    - Drag High pressure/High volume inline fuel pump
    - Boost dependent FMU fuel regulator
    - Intake air filter assembly
    - Map sensor bypass valves
    - Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings
    - Oil return assembly
    - All necessary hardware and fittings
    - All necessary hose and hose clamps
    - All necessary gaskets
    - Installation manual
    Product Features:
    - Dyno-proven to add 100+ HP on average.
    - Capable of supporting up to 450 HP
    - Capable of max boost of 25 PSI.
    - Work with both automatic and 5-speed manual transmission.
    - Work with/without factory air conditioning.

    you could get a turbonetics stage 2 kit for about 500 more and it comes with 450cc injectors and a fuel controller.
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  6. #126
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Well thats what i was planning on doing. I want to do put everything on myself but let someone else tune it for me. I've heard that piecing a turbo kit together comes out cheaper than buying an actual kit from a manufacturer. Anyways i just need more power for the moment. So i guess i'll just get some aggressive cams from crower and be done until i save up some more money.

  7. #127
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    piecing a kit together yourself is cheaper, but when companies such as DRAG and turbonetics put a kit together, they test it and know exactly which turbo and what trim size works best. You might save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself, but just buying one complete kit that comes with directions and all the little extra shit (oil lines, silicon boots, etc) is worth it in the end.
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  8. #128
    Move yuh blood claat! Ludester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotoronly
    piecing a kit together yourself is cheaper, but when companies such as DRAG and turbonetics put a kit together, they test it and know exactly which turbo and what trim size works best. You might save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself, but just buying one complete kit that comes with directions and all the little extra shit (oil lines, silicon boots, etc) is worth it in the end.
    dakiller listen to this guy. Hell he has posted pretty much what I would've typed throughout the entire thread

    plus one for you

  9. #129
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    thanks buddy!!!
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  10. #130
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Cool preciate it.

  11. #131
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    So what all would i need to do to my motor as far as prep work, so i know it will last a long time with setup?

  12. #132
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    ACL bearings, upgraded oil pump or oil pump gear, balanced crank/rods/pistons, and either a block brace or preferrably sleeves. Then you can do whatever you want. have the work done by a reputiable machine shop.
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  13. #133
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    h23a1 · · darton iron sleeves · je pistons 9:1 gude race head · -Port and Polished Head · -Performance valve kit -Drag intake manifold · AEM Cam Gears · ARP Head Studs · AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator · AEM Fuel Rail · Walbro 255 Intank fuel pump full 3" exhaust · Apexi N1 muffler

  14. #134
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    u on the right track!!

  15. #135
    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by o_bomb
    u on the right track!!
    yea sounds like it
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

  16. #136
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    But is there anyway to get some custom pistons made for the h23? Cause if i could ge JE, or Wiseco to make me some pistons for the 23 i would still go all motor but with 12.5:1 compression.

  17. #137
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    My main goal is to be faster but keeping all my reliability. I'm a fan of boost but my heart is all motor. So if i dont get anywhere near 250 whp i'll be fine as long as i have at least 200 i'm good. I'll still be able to walk h22's all day.

  18. #138
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    i just bought a car that has a h23a1...in it..i was wondering if anyone could point me in the right area to buy a h22 vtec head and everything i need for a vtec swap.



    EMAIL me at [email protected]

  19. #139
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Ok well lets stay on subject here and stop thread jacking. Hows this sound type-s pistons cams, balanced crank, and titanium springs and retainers.
    Fast+Cheap= Not Reliable

    Cheap+Reliable=Not Fast

    Fast+Reliable=Not Cheap



    THE DARK LUDE SPEAKS

  20. #140
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    Lame.

  21. #141
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    O...K..... back to subject. So what should i go with? Turbo kit or h22 type-s pistons in the h23 all motor running 12.5:1 compression on all oem parts.
    Fast+Cheap= Not Reliable

    Cheap+Reliable=Not Fast

    Fast+Reliable=Not Cheap



    THE DARK LUDE SPEAKS

  22. #142
    JDM swaped shortbus Big J's Avatar
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    Turbo............just tell me when you want start.

  23. #143
    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Yeah well its still up in the air for right now. I don't know which one would be best for autocross.
    Fast+Cheap= Not Reliable

    Cheap+Reliable=Not Fast

    Fast+Reliable=Not Cheap



    THE DARK LUDE SPEAKS

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