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Thread: Potential problems w/ the supra- Flammers please stay out SERIOUS THREAD

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    Default Potential problems w/ the supra- Flammers please stay out SERIOUS THREAD

    Well as everyone knows.. I ran a 15.1 at the track this weekend.. and I was searching on Mkiv.com and supraforums on normal track times and dynos for a BPU AUTO supra cause the 15.1 just didnt seem right to me.. Well I found some interesting stuff.. This is one of the many comments I got from alot of the guys on there (and all the comments say pretty much the same thing)...

    Ren,

    Yes your conclusion is correct! Something is wrong with your car:
    338RWHP! that is just downpipe mod let alone full bpu!

    You dyno'ed 338 then you have also lost more power then that now. 99.5 Trap you are lucky to have 270RWHP (that is less then stock). Even at 338 (which again is very low) you should be aroun 112 in an auto.

    Check this recent threat about a low dyno:

    http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=358483

    Here are some basics:

    Boost Leak
    Plugs (heat range or 2 colder and gap them down)
    turbo on it's way out
    Low compression motor (at 338HP has to VERY low @ 18psi)
    Wastegate spring weak (spring mod)
    Or you have a BPU'ed++ 7MGTE in your MK4

    As an Auto BPU you should have no less then 400RWHP @ 18psi with 93-94 octane.

    Thanks,

    ( I am keeping the name out of this for now)

    I will keep everyone informed on what we figure out...


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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    hmmm damn, i hope everything gets worked out, i did think that trap was low, hope its an easy fix!
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    So Do I.. I kept looking at my slip.. and as shitty as my 60' was.. 15.1 just didnt seem right when the NA supra in front of me ran a 16.1... I really hope its just a boost leak or something. What kills me is when I bought the car the owner was very upfront about everything and everything checked out. He also told me they had done a compression test previously and everything was good to go.. so when I bought it I never did one.. Now im thinking that was a huge mistake..
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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    it sounds more like boost leak or spark problems then compression. what was ur 60 fter if u dont mind me asking?
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    also, mods to the car at time of run?
    When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    also, mods to the car at time of run?
    '93 Octane gas
    Mods:
    RMM Dp
    HKS superdragger
    GReddy BCC
    HKS EVC
    Random Technology Hi Flow Cat 3" cat
    Aluminum Hardpipes to the SMIC
    (I have other mods but these seem to be the ones that count)

    and my 60' was a 2.7
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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    hmmmm. it deff doesnt sound like ur makin the power you should like the guy on supraforums.com told you. i dont think it sounds like compression problems tho. boost leak sounds reasonable. oh, and dont let people hate, thats not a bad 60ft for ur first time.
    When I was a child, I used to talk as a child, think as a child, reason as a child; when I became a man, I put aside childish things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    hmmmm. it deff doesnt sound like ur makin the power you should like the guy on supraforums.com told you. i dont think it sounds like compression problems tho. boost leak sounds reasonable. oh, and dont let people hate, thats not a bad 60ft for ur first time.
    Aww thanks! Im really hoping thats what it is.. The HKS EVC is the first one so its like 12 years old.. So Im wondering if maybe it could be the boost controller. When I turned it on I didnt feel my car any faster, it actually felt like it lagged more (not sure if thats how its supposed to feel).. I just want to get my car working right..
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    i am jill's nipple. fight club's Avatar
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    with a higher boost level id assume the transition from full boost to no boost <shift point> would lag more in an auto since u cant rev match, stay in boost. hmmmm. this is intriguing keep us posted!
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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    with a higher boost level id assume the transition from full boost to no boost <shift point> would lag more. hmmmm. this is intriguing keep us posted!
    I definatly will.. The day we fixed my boost controller (it was hooked up wrong when I bought the darn car) we dyno'd my car a few times.. and here is one of the better dyno's of the day
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dynobg-jpg  
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    Quote Originally Posted by cherry kool aid
    with a higher boost level id assume the transition from full boost to no boost <shift point> would lag more in an auto since u cant rev match, stay in boost. hmmmm. this is intriguing keep us posted!

    there is no transition with an auto. you put your foot to the floor and hold it until the end of the strip, you don't let up for the auto to shift.

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    definitely check all your hoses - esp the vacuum ones
    also it'd help to check your spark plugs ( have you ever changed them since you've gotten the car? they were one of the few reasons why my car had only put out 202hp when cars with less mods were putting out like 257 )

    -edit- another thing - check your A/F ratios, see if they're way out of line or anything ( just assuming since I didnt see anything about aftermarket a/f stuff )


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    I just replaced my spark plugs in feb
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    My car is completely untuned as well
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    that could have something to do with ur low power levels. im not sure how supras specifically react to tuning but i bet with a good tuner u could get ur power levels where they should be.
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    yes get tuned and get some colder plugs. 7 or 8 range for cars with mods. 8s are normally on cars with nitrous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Ren
    Or you have a BPU'ed++ 7MGTE in your MK4 [img]

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    well if its untuned, get it tuned first - your A/F might just be off

    my car was running 4-5bar ( 25% over ) rich.... lol


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    Just out of curiousity karen... are you powerbraking on the launches?

    My first time out to the track sucked... nevermind the fact that i had an intermittent headgasket leak... I've really learned how to drive the car since then. It doesn't explain why you are putting down so little power, but maybe you were just getting some really shitty launches.

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    It doesnt matter if your tuned. You put out more power than stock, a stock car runs faster. That has nothing to do with a tune. 340 hp untuned> 276 stock. You make more power thats what is important.

    I think you need more time at the track.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1439/2000
    I think you need more time at the track.
    yes

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    im sure this is a dumb question, but how do you get better 60s in an auto car? i mean, its just putting the right foot down. dont have to worry as much about revs at launch or how to work the clutch
    93 turbo mr2
    99 buell S3

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    Quote Originally Posted by ECMgarrett
    im sure this is a dumb question, but how do you get better 60s in an auto car? i mean, its just putting the right foot down. dont have to worry as much about revs at launch or how to work the clutch

    you can "torque launch" the car by holding the brake pedal and gas at the same time. this will built boost on the line and load up the tires/suspension for launch.

    the 2.76 60' time could only be attributed to easing off the line very slowly and not really getting into it, because that car should pull an easy 2.4 or so just by flooring it from the get-go... the auto tranny would keep traction and not require any special pedalwork to keep it going. going on the same numbers, the biggest problem sounds like your right foot over anything else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiPSI
    you can "torque launch" the car by holding the brake pedal and gas at the same time. this will built boost on the line and load up the tires/suspension for launch.

    the 2.76 60' time could only be attributed to easing off the line very slowly and not really getting into it, because that car should pull an easy 2.4 or so just by flooring it from the get-go... the auto tranny would keep traction and not require any special pedalwork to keep it going. going on the same numbers, the biggest problem sounds like your right foot over anything else.



    Very well said... Just remember that "practice makes perfect".... Now that your living in my area you are a hell of a lot closer to the track. That means you dont have any reason not to be nailing the tree...Hit me up if you wanna practice some launches...
    The XUV !!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by One Tuning Tuner
    Very well said... Just remember that "practice makes perfect".... Now that your living in my area you are a hell of a lot closer to the track. That means you dont have any reason not to be nailing the tree...Hit me up if you wanna practice some launches...
    Hell yeah.. tell me when and where and Im there
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    POST THE A/F RATIO OTHERWISE THAT DYNO IS WORTHLESS
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    Spool time, DRIVER SKILL has alot to do with it. If your not making the power that you should, well , then we need to see the a/f ratio. You SHOULD be making around 350-400 give or take with those mods. I know our single turbo 2JZ makes 417whp on 15psi. Its a single with EMS, but everything else is stock, it ran 13.0 with no second gear at commerce, it runs 11.5s now (granted this is a much lighter 240sx chasis but still)

    STOCK STOCK SUpras should still run mid 14s with ease. Making 350whp you should be in the 13s ESPECIALLY with a RWD car. Brake boost at the line an get your 60 fott down.
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    also, i dont think your making tons less power than you should. we will have to see the rest of the dyno to see what it looks like.
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    Quote Originally Posted by vteckidd
    also, i dont think your making tons less power than you should. we will have to see the rest of the dyno to see what it looks like.
    We Never did my a/f when we did the dyno.. but we will find out tommorow how everything looks..
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    ouch, you NEED to do A/F on any car, even the tailpipe sniffer, expecially if you have a car you have never run before.

    i remember your car, that thing smoked like a freight train. it was running RICH as hell, which will make your turbo spool slower, an your power stay down.

    TUNING , all the mods in hte world mean NOTHING without tuning. Ditch all the bullshit electronics. Use your Greddy Boost COntroller an a SAFC, keep it simple, you arent making 1000whp an you wont make 600whp. You can make 400whp with a SAFC an a Boost Controller, we have done it several times. Ditch all that other crap, make some money, an go make some power, youll be MUCH happier i guarantee it
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    Well here is the result... On the compression test valves 1-3 were between 160 and 165, valve #4-120, Valve #5-162, & Valve #6-155
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    piston ring
    2006 Evo IX - Bolt ons

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    Quote Originally Posted by TIGERJC
    piston ring
    yep.. and right now I dont have the money to rip apart the black
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    The civic still running at least?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CRAMERIZKING
    The civic still running at least?

    yeah we got that fixed a few weeks back.. 120 isnt horrible.. but i definatly have to keep low boost for now on.. I am still ganna go single like i wanted and when/if it drops to low 100s or below, I plan on building the engine...
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    the VALVES? or the CYLINDER?

    do a leak down, i would like to know more before i tore into a motor making 350whp UNTUNED
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    Quote Originally Posted by vteckidd
    the VALVES? or the CYLINDER?

    do a leak down, i would like to know more before i tore into a motor making 350whp UNTUNED

    Well like I said for the immediate future Im not too worried about it.. unless it drops below 110.. Im ganna continue doing the same thing as usual.. specially since I never drive w/ the boost controller on
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    does it burn oil? what im saying is, a COMPRESSION test will give you a number. It doesnt tell you whats wrong with it.

    for instance, you could have a bent valve or a bad piston. A leakdown will tell you the amount of air getting past the particular cylinder. an tell you if its the bottom end or the top end.

    i guess i have heard how so many Supra motors especailly TURBO GTEs are indestructable an good for 600whp, i find it EXTREMELY hard to beleive your bottom end went out.

    You need to know what a/f ratio you are at, perhaps is so rich it washed a ring out. you need more info before you decide to rebuild it.

    ask more questions get more info
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    Quote Originally Posted by vteckidd
    does it burn oil? what im saying is, a COMPRESSION test will give you a number. It doesnt tell you whats wrong with it.

    for instance, you could have a bent valve or a bad piston. A leakdown will tell you the amount of air getting past the particular cylinder. an tell you if its the bottom end or the top end.

    i guess i have heard how so many Supra motors especailly TURBO GTEs are indestructable an good for 600whp, i find it EXTREMELY hard to beleive your bottom end went out.

    You need to know what a/f ratio you are at, perhaps is so rich it washed a ring out. you need more info before you decide to rebuild it.

    ask more questions get more info
    No I agree with you.. But I dont really run my car hard anyways ya know? So for the immediate future.. atleast I know whats causing my power loss.. Now what is the exact thing causing it... that i dont know yet
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    Quote Originally Posted by vteckidd
    does it burn oil? what im saying is, a COMPRESSION test will give you a number. It doesnt tell you whats wrong with it.

    for instance, you could have a bent valve or a bad piston. A leakdown will tell you the amount of air getting past the particular cylinder. an tell you if its the bottom end or the top end.

    i guess i have heard how so many Supra motors especailly TURBO GTEs are indestructable an good for 600whp, i find it EXTREMELY hard to beleive your bottom end went out.

    You need to know what a/f ratio you are at, perhaps is so rich it washed a ring out. you need more info before you decide to rebuild it.

    ask more questions get more info


    Well said Mike.




    I would get to the root of the problem before doing any other upgrades/modifications. The bottom ends on those cars are damn near indistructable. Doing the work on those things are SO SIMPLE.... Its really nothing to remove the head from it if it is a valve or anything else in the head. To continually drive the vehicle with ANY type of symptom or problem is only going to cause more inevitable damage to the engine. If you have some other means of transportation than I suggest you use it. Stop driving it till you know exactly what is wrong with it. It makes no sense to keep wounding the motor when you don't have too. Just my $.02 so take it how you may... Hit me up if you want or need any help. I am not too far from you in Winder....
    The XUV !!!

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About us
ImportAtlanta is a community of gearheads and car enthusiasts. It does not matter what kind of car or bike you drive, IA is an open community for any gearhead. Whether you're looking for advice on a performance build or posting your wheels for sale, you're welcome here!
Announcement
Welcome back to ImportAtlanta. We are currently undergoing many changes, so please report any issues you encounter with the site using the 'Contact Us' button below. Thank you!