Is it bad too take to much weight off the crank?

[-S Double C-]

Im heard that once you take so much weight off the crank you actually lose horsepower.

Im thinking about buying a fidanza 7.5lbs flywheel but i read on honda-tech a big post about you shouldnt buy a lighter flywheel the 9.5 lbs cause you will lose horepower..im also thinking of getting the UR crank pulley which is 5lbs lighter and alternator pulley which is 2lbs lighter then the stock. Letme know your thoughts.

[LS2ner]

im sure too much weight off the crank would cause it to be weak but other than that i dont have a clue.

[Vteckidd]

in all motor applications, the crank weight plays a HUGE role. but only in SUPER high hp applications.

Stock cranks can support 260whp all motor, and 700-800whp FI. The most i would ever do to a crankshaft is balance it. There really is no reason to lighten it so to speak. not unless your doing a trick motor in a drag car.

THe lighten flywheel part, well there is a deep divided stance on what to run. I like a light flywheel. will you lose HP, no, tq, yes. But hondas dont have TQ anyways so who cares. and we arent talking about 20 ft/lbs. we are talking MAYBE 5 ft/lbs at the most, if you lose any at all.

I would much rather have a car that revved quick and got me to my power band as fast as possible, than have an extra 5 TQ. However, lightened flywheels can cause traction problems. the motor will spin that much faster, so the transfer of power is much more instant, than if you ran a heavy flywheel.

I would run a 9lb. thats about the Norm, thats what i run. the 6-7lbs are crazy light, and i have seen problems with them warping. you also want a flywheel that is not all aluminum. they warp easy, especially with a strong clutch. I would look for a lightweight Steel or steel alloy.

As far as the underdrive pulleys go, they SUCK. i hate them. Run the CTR pulley for the crankshaft pulley and leave the rest alone. unless you like to break belts and have them warp on you.

[-S Double C-]

in all motor applications, the crank weight plays a HUGE role. but only in SUPER high hp applications.

Stock cranks can support 260whp all motor, and 700-800whp FI. The most i would ever do to a crankshaft is balance it. There really is no reason to lighten it so to speak. not unless your doing a trick motor in a drag car.

THe lighten flywheel part, well there is a deep divided stance on what to run. I like a light flywheel. will you lose HP, no, tq, yes. But hondas dont have TQ anyways so who cares. and we arent talking about 20 ft/lbs. we are talking MAYBE 5 ft/lbs at the most, if you lose any at all.

I would much rather have a car that revved quick and got me to my power band as fast as possible, than have an extra 5 TQ. However, lightened flywheels can cause traction problems. the motor will spin that much faster, so the transfer of power is much more instant, than if you ran a heavy flywheel.

I would run a 9lb. thats about the Norm, thats what i run. the 6-7lbs are crazy light, and i have seen problems with them warping. you also want a flywheel that is not all aluminum. they warp easy, especially with a strong clutch. I would look for a lightweight Steel or steel alloy.

As far as the underdrive pulleys go, they SUCK. i hate them. Run the CTR pulley for the crankshaft pulley and leave the rest alone. unless you like to break belts and have them warp on you.

ok thanks that sums it all up for me you helped me decide to go with a exedy 9.4 lbs flywheel and ctr pulley..lol

[LS2ner]

Does the apply to Unorthodox Pulleys as well?2478

[-S Double C-]

Does the apply to Unorthodox Pulleys as well?2478

not sure i guess those are the ones i was talking about getting though.

[Vteckidd]

yes
the Unorthodox pulley and the AEM pulleys i cant stand. Hell. pick one up and hold it, do you trust it ? I have seen them warp and cause more trouble than they are worth. 99SIs cr blew up 3 alternator belts cause of his AEM pulley, and his PS one broke off.

he also revs his very high. but i would MUCH rather run the CTR pulley. i have run them on all my motors without fail, and its OEM honda. you lose PS and AC though

[-S Double C-]

lol..p/s and a/c=GHEY!

[HiPSI]

lol..p/s and a/c=GHEY!

keep saying that when it's 100* outside

[-S Double C-]

keep saying that when it's 100* outside

when that happens i take the targa top off

[LS2ner]

Damn, i always heard the unorthodox pulley's and shit were pretty damn good. But i guess that shit was false.

[Vteckidd]

well, they arent bad, but i personally dont like them.

I mean, pick one up, you see how flimsy and paper thin they are? do you trust that on your engine? i dont.

I have seen them warp and cause damage and i have seen them shred belts and fuck things up. ask 99SI, his b16 ate 3 belts at high rpm. I bleeive his PS belt shot off too when he was at the track or something.

I got him to switch back to OEM pulleys, and he hasnt really had any problems

[99SI]

I had AEM alternator, power steering, and crank pulleys on my car. When we built my engine and finished the break and the initial tune, within 100 miles my power steering belt shredded and flew into my a/c belt throwing it off as well. Then we fixed that and within another 100 miles the alternator belt shredded and flew off. Fixed that and a few weeks later while I was making my first pass down the track my alternator belt shredded and got slung again. After that I limped it to my shop. The next day I called Honda and ordered every single pulley OEM and installed them. That has been almost a year with no problems at all. If I were dead set on getting the underdrive pulleys it would be the unorthodox but unless you are making uber horsepower I doubt if it will do anymore than 1-3whp at any given time. The claims they make of 30whp and shit is on a highly built boosted engine that is making 500-600 whp.

[LS2ner]

Thats AEM...i was referring to Unorthodox. Ive heard ALOT of bad things about AEM's pulleys and gears.

[Vteckidd]

ive seen unorthodox do the same things as AEM

[kaotickaozpunk]

yea its alright to do a little knife edge but dont over do it...besides i'd rather get the crank balanced..

[GTScoob]

Lucky guys being able to run 9lb flywheels.

I've got a 12 lb flywheel waiting for my next clutch swap but the WRX ECUs hate anything less than 13 and you'll get random misfire check engine lights.

[speedminded]

As for the flywheel...stay away from the multipiece aluminum ones with the ring gears, they all come apart...including the Comptech. Look for a one piece Chromoly...both Toda and Cusco makes them around 8.5 to 9.0 lbs. and I got my Cusco off eBay for $200 shipped.

As for the pulley's...i haven't seen any problems with the AEM as long as everything is correct but our engines are barely pushing 200 at the wheels. We had one come off during practice before an endurance race just because the machine shop that did some work on one of the engines seemed to have forgotten 3 of the 8 or so things on the list given to them. One being the threads for one of the sparkplugs and that really sucks when you assemble a complete engine just before putting on a trailer to hit the road and the damn spark plug won't go in...anyways. We lost that pulley, found it on the backstretch up at VIR and I think it's still in the trailer from last years race.

Now on the alternator pulley (either unorthodox or aem, can't remember) we did have a problem once...just because it had once less rib compared to the oem honda belt and it would shred it within a few laps. Sucks because we were 2nd place at 11.5 hrs into a 13 hr race and the alternator went out...this is 9:30-10pm at night running over 140mph and the headlights kept going out *ugh* Didn't realize the pulley was slightly differant and we just threw the alternator on behind the wall and came back around with a broken belt on the first or 2nd lap out...already lost one belt when the crank pulley went MIA so on our last belt with an hour left in the race we took a knife and cut off a 1/4 inch so it wouldn't get shreded again...finished the race in 25th out of 100 cars to start and 50 to finish.

This year we got smart...had a custom bracket machined that put the alternator in the same spot as the A/C compressor....7 minutes to remove the old one and install the new one and don't even have to take off the left front wheel

[F22B2slow]

lighter flywheels make u rev quicker, but if i understand correctly you lose speed quicker when going up hills, so u have to downshift sooner. i guess thats what vteckidd was talking about regarding lower tq.