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Thread: The OIL thread.

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    Default The OIL thread.

    discuss what oil you use and why you use it. Going to provide some information that led me to deciding what oils i use in hopes of assisting everyone in making their cars last as long as possible.

    One thing you may not know.......
    Just because it says synthetic on the bottle, doesnt mean it actually is!

    It wouldnt be America if large corporations couldnt lie directly to your face would it? I know Castrol is a very popular oil and rightfully so, there's no denying that it's pretty good stuff, BUT.... Castrol actually does not offer a single synthetic oil in their entire line up of oils offered, regardless of what the bottle says. At one time Mobil decided to take other oil companies to court and sue them for even calling their oils synthetic. Mobil not only wanted to be the only "synthetic" oil on the shelf, but obviously it's good for business to make your competition look like liars. After a court case between Mobil and Castrol in which Mobil was suing Castrol for god only knows how much money..... because Castrol used 100% crude oil (dinosaur juice) in their "synthetic" oil, the judges decides that Castrol was allowed to call their modified crude oil synthetic and set the precedent for other oils to also start using crude oil as a base for their "synthetic" since it was much cheaper than actually making real synthetic oil. So youre saying the legal system didnt "stick it to" an oil giant? inorite...LOL

    Only 3 companies made in the united states actually offer real synthetic oil.
    Every oil sitting on the shelf is selling you refined 100% crude oil if theyre not labeled Mobil-1, Amsoil, or Royal Purple. Every other oil brand in the united states uses crude oil as a starting point for their labeled synthetic since the result of the legal case between Mobil and Castrol.

    Does it matter?
    well, no, not really. Synthetic is just the process of making the oil, it doesnt necessarily mean that the end result isnt a good product. However, the PAOs used in real synthetic do last significantly longer than anything made with a crude base. For short intervals, you might not notice the difference. If you want to insure that your oil doesnt break down before you change it, synthetic lasts longer and breaks down slower. but....before the oil breaks down, conventional may be just as good and sometimes better. You've probably already figured that out by now since im sure a lot of you have a variety of different oils you would swear by. Crude oil is exactly what it implies, crude. The molecules are not perfect and have different characteristics. Comparing synthetic to crude oil would be about the same as comparing a soup to a bisk. Soup has chunks of potatoes and meat in it and a bisk is smooth and creamy. If you threw both bowls at a wall, the smooth and creamy bisk would stick to the wall evenly and some of the soup would stick and some wouldnt. It works about the same way with the molecules in oil. Synthetic oil is man made to be perfectly engineered and have even properties. The "synthetic crude oil" that everyone else sales is oil that was refined to be the same way. Essentially, they put the soup in a blender and called it a bisk.

    What does matter then?
    in my opinion..... cheating. Molybdenum disulfide is a hard metal that many other forms of lubricant like grease use because the molecules in "Moly" attract to metal and fill in the pores in the metals surface. So rather than having an oil film between your metal parts, moly actually forms a metal film over them filling in the pores of the existing metal. When oil companies first started using this method, they had problems with the moly sinking to the bottom of the bottle and obviously also sinking to the bottom of the engine, they eventually modified the moly so that it stays suspended in the oil and doesnt get filtered out. Know how you hear those rumors about "i used RP and my engine blew up" but nobody is around to confirm them, well... maybe that story was true, maybe it wasnt.... in a civil suit, obviously RP would put a nondisclosure clause in. That's why you wouldnt see anybody talking about it. Yes, this sounds exactly like what it is. The moly film can build up. The moly film can get thick enough to interfere with a motorcycles wet clutch. So, use your own judgement if you think it's a fantastic idea for your VTEC engine or if it's good for your lifters. This is the #1 factor that separates "motorcycle oil" and "car oil", the moly has too many negative side effects to be ran in the tolerances of high performance motorcycle engines.

    Royal Purple
    Has more Molybdenum disulfide in it than any other oil on the shelf. RP's detractors say that this is the only reason for their success. RP is packed with detergent and packed with Moly. RP tests nearly flawlessly in bearing tests. RP is packed with detergents and moly. Most people who use RP in a brand new engine swear by it. RP keeps the engine polished and with fresh new metals, the moly fills the pores of the metal evenly. You can use your own judgment on how well this may or may not work with a high mileage engine with different wear characteristics.

    Semi trucks are on the road 24/7 and go for millions of miles, what do they use?
    semis, much like motorcycles, have already determined across the board that moly is a "nono" for their engines. Using moly in oil is a race car trick that found its way into your street vehicle. Someone like John Force wouldnt care about moly build up in his engine since his engine is going to get rebuilt after each race. The moly lubricates better than any oil substance in existence, but as mentioned before, negative side effects come with it. Semis are on the road for far to long to run oils with moly in them. The semi/tractor specific oils are actually extremely good for this exact reason. Semi/tractor oil is made with 2 things in mind.... it needs to stand up to heat and not sheer down, since semis are constantly running and it needs to not contain moly, since the engine's lifespan is far too long to constantly be adding metal to your engine. You're probably thinking, "that sounds great, why cant i use it in my car?" you can.... Shell oil "rotella" and other oils aimed at tractors actually work really well in cars. I use rotella t6 in my motorcycles and a lot of my cars. If you do some research, you will see there is a cult following for rotella "nonmotorcycle" t6 oil in motorcycles.... yes... the oil they sell at the gas station with pictures of farm equipment on it. It's in my motorcycle right now.

    So in your (expert) opinion, what oil is best?
    I think it varies per application, but there are a few oils you can stand by. I tend to avoid oils with Moly and in engines i care about, i prefer to stay with synthetics. Those 2 factors narrow the selection a good bit. You should also factor in price. If you're someone who religiously changes your oil every 2500 miles, then synthetic is probably going to be a waste of money for you. Pre-breakdown, your conventional oil might actually be just as good if not better than synthetic. For people who go long intervals, you might not want to chance the oil breaking down before you change it. Mobil synthetic vs non synthetic tests almost exactly the same in bearing tests. Obviously your oil is more complex than a bearing, but you get the point. Judging lubrication vs lubrication, theyre relatively equal. I'll answer this question in a variety of ways.

    I change my oil every 2500 miles so price is a big factor for me
    Valvoline Durablend performs better than nearly every oil sitting on the shelf in wear tests. Durablend tests nearly as good as the "pricey" oils. It out performs mobil synthetic, Redline, Motul, and castrol in 4ball wear tests. Does that mean it's clearly "better"? no, a 4ball test is not an engine, but this is a good sign that valvoline performs above it's price range.

    I change my oil every 5000 or so miles or whenever i get to it, but i still factor price
    Since longevity is becoming an issue, you should start looking into synthetics. I would recommend using Rotella or Mobil. Rotella is cheap and readily available, its made for the "long haul".... literally..... and it doesnt contain Moly or harsh detergent.

    I just want the best, dont care about price.
    Amsoil.



    Let the debate begin...... for those of you willing to read something longer than a text message anyways.

    Last edited by Sinfix_15; 07-16-2012 at 12:06 PM.

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    one more thing, there's always gonna be "QD"s in the world that say "ive always done this and it always worked" and that's sometimes 100% true. I have an uncle like that who i respect as much as any mechanic ive ever met. He's used the same oils all of his life and i've seen every vehicle he's ever owned last insanely long amounts of time. He commutes long distances to work and i've seen a lot of his vehicles surpass the 400k mile range with literally no major maintenance at all. Using the ole trusty Castrol and STP oil treatment mix. It wasnt until recently that i converted him to modern technology and proved that not all oils were created equally. Oil is not a guessing game, you can get scientific lab results done on your oil and mailed to your house. I'm currently collecting samples to compare Amsoil vs Mobil-1 vs Harley Davidson oils in Vtwins. If you REALLY want to know whats going on in your engine.... get an oil analysis, it costs $35. If you use Fram filters.... be prepared for them to tell you that they found a shit ton of dirt and filter particles in your oil. Even if what youre doing is good enough, some will still want to do it better and know that what theyre doing is the best thing they can do for their engine.

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    Used to use mobil synthetic on my ka. I realized that my engine is burning oil and has to fill a quart a few times in between oil changes.

    Now i used rotella 15w40. Less burn but affects the mpg of the car.


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    I used to run Castrol High Mileage, but then on a whim, I decided to try regular Castrol, and it seems like my car's been getting less gas mileage since then. I might go back to High mileage for the next one, or I might try a whole new brand. Thanks for the info though.

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    bobistheoilguy.com

    Read and educate yourself.


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    Here is the complete list that you should know:

    The Engine Oil Bible - Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
    More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Oil - all_oilfaq_v1.2
    What you need to know about Synthetic Oil - Importance or Oil & Filter Services
    The Truth about Slick50 - FOR YOUR INFORMATION: December 16, 1997
    Bob Is The Oil Guy - Great Site - - Bob is the Oil Guy
    Felix's Rotary FAQ (Mazda RX7s and Oil) - Felix's Car FAQ Text
    "Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen

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    I used to use Valvoline, plain ol 5/10w30. Kept it in my 175k or so SC400 with the OEM filter when I got it and always changed it at app 3k and it always came out looking just a shade or two darker than when it went in. Then I got my 300ZX and I've used Amsoil 5w30 and Amsoil filter. It's finally about time for the second oil change, but sticking with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinfix_15 View Post
    one more thing, there's always gonna be "QD"s in the world that say "ive always done this and it always worked" and that's sometimes 100% true.
    I just saw this thread and am only posting because of the reference to me, lolol. I use Purolator filters and Autozone oil in my cars. Later, QD.
    FOR MORE INFO, CLICK THE PIC!!!


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    Quote Originally Posted by David88vert View Post
    Here is the complete list that you should know:

    The Engine Oil Bible - Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
    More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Oil - all_oilfaq_v1.2
    What you need to know about Synthetic Oil - Importance or Oil & Filter Services
    The Truth about Slick50 - FOR YOUR INFORMATION: December 16, 1997
    Bob Is The Oil Guy - Great Site - - Bob is the Oil Guy
    Felix's Rotary FAQ (Mazda RX7s and Oil) - Felix's Car FAQ Text
    here's another good one......

    Motor Oil Specification Comparisons - The Motor Oil Evaluator

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    IA's Pedo-cord tdurr's Avatar
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    This is a good thread. Way too easy to read.


    Idk if the link is still in my sig but major oil companies were/are/have phased out adding zinc(I think) to oils. No biggie fore newer motors but for the older cars on the road it wasn't good. I'll look for info again.

    And side note: royal purple is the shit.

    Save ur engines!
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdurr View Post
    This is a good thread. Way too easy to read.


    Idk if the link is still in my sig but major oil companies were/are/have phased out adding zinc(I think) to oils. No biggie fore newer motors but for the older cars on the road it wasn't good. I'll look for info again.

    And side note: royal purple is the shit.
    Oil is changing because of environmental regulations, not because its improving for your vehicle. Zink was a better additive than moly, but moly is better for the environment. Royal purple is a scam. if you're willing to spend that much on oil, you should be using AMSOIL.

    AMSOIL tests better in every category vs royal purple. Even produced higher dyno numbers than RP which is pretty much RP's ace of spades in the oil debate. RP is a gimmick oil, it's loaded with moly and detergent.

    To summarize it................... RP is an oil specifically made to pass(cheat) oil tests..... and it still performs worse than AMSOIL.

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    Certified Gearhead Durtie's Avatar
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    Isn't that high price of amsoil justified by how long it stays in your car? You change it every year or 10,000 miles. I'm currently running Amsoil. I just changed it last month and paid 65 bucks for the oil and filter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Durtie View Post
    Isn't that high price of amsoil justified by how long it stays in your car? You change it every year or 10,000 miles. I'm currently running Amsoil. I just changed it last month and paid 65 bucks for the oil and filter.
    Every car is different. If you purchase a new car, start it on amsoil and never change.... it would probably go 20k miles on an oil change. How dirty your engine is, what type of oil was in it before can all change how long the amsoil will last. What most people do when they switch to amsoil is get a UOA at 5k miles and follow the recommendation from there. After a change or two, you'll be near the 10k mile mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinfix_15 View Post
    Every car is different. If you purchase a new car, start it on amsoil and never change.... it would probably go 20k miles on an oil change. How dirty your engine is, what type of oil was in it before can all change how long the amsoil will last. What most people do when they switch to amsoil is get a UOA at 5k miles and follow the recommendation from there. After a change or two, you'll be near the 10k mile mark.
    So my car is a 2000 and I waited ten months for my next oil change. Did I hurt anything? My dealer didn't say anything about what your saying. I guess you never can trust a salesman.

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    Hell, I've been using the Rotella T6 for a long time..and before that, the regular Rotella 15/40 in my old cars. I also only use Mazda OE filters. Only recently had people on the forum I hang out a lot on, MiataTurbo, did people start doing a bunch of oil analysis and proving the T6 is tits and comes back with superb results. Personally I think Mobil1 is a big scam. Somehow or another they're indoctrined so many people to believe it is the end-all best oil on the market. I've tried to spread the word about Rotella for years.
    02' Miata




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    Quote Originally Posted by Durtie View Post
    So my car is a 2000 and I waited ten months for my next oil change. Did I hurt anything? My dealer didn't say anything about what your saying. I guess you never can trust a salesman.
    What kind of car and mileage? there's really no way to tell you a solid answer without a tests, i can make an assumption... but the only way to know is a test. Lets say you had a 2010 Honda accord.... it would be safe to assume your Honda engine is running pristine and not leaking any coolant or fuel into your oil, knowing that your oil is not contaminated, i could confidently say yes, your amsoil would go 10k miles easily. Flip that script and use a 98 Cavalier as your example vehicle.... fuel could pass the rings, may have a small coolant leak ect ect that can contaminate the oil. These are all things that a $35 UOA can tell you in specific detail. Based on the information you got back from the UOA, you could then decide what oil is best for you. Lets say your car had elevated fuel levels in the oil shortening it's lifespan, then you might decide that a cheaper oil and more frequent changes was a better route for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
    Hell, I've been using the Rotella T6 for a long time..and before that, the regular Rotella 15/40 in my old cars. I also only use Mazda OE filters. Only recently had people on the forum I hang out a lot on, MiataTurbo, did people start doing a bunch of oil analysis and proving the T6 is tits and comes back with superb results. Personally I think Mobil1 is a big scam. Somehow or another they're indoctrined so many people to believe it is the end-all best oil on the market. I've tried to spread the word about Rotella for years.
    Yeah, rotella is fantastic oil. What sucks is that people are usually trying to do the right thing by buying the expensive, well advertised oil at the store.... but the best option isnt always the most expensive one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by quickdodge® View Post
    I just saw this thread and am only posting because of the reference to me, lolol. I use Purolator filters and Autozone oil in my cars. Later, QD.
    Autozone oil is made by Coastal. Pretty poor testing oil. The only thing good you could say about it is that it contains fairly low metal levels. The viscosity falls off rapidly. It has very low TBN and doesnt offer much to condition metals or neutralize acids. If you're using 30w, it's probably sheering down to 20w before you change it. rotella is only $17 a jug and tests way better than any store brand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinfix_15 View Post
    What kind of car and mileage? there's really no way to tell you a solid answer without a tests, i can make an assumption... but the only way to know is a test. Lets say you had a 2010 Honda accord.... it would be safe to assume your Honda engine is running pristine and not leaking any coolant or fuel into your oil, knowing that your oil is not contaminated, i could confidently say yes, your amsoil would go 10k miles easily. Flip that script and use a 98 Cavalier as your example vehicle.... fuel could pass the rings, may have a small coolant leak ect ect that can contaminate the oil. These are all things that a $35 UOA can tell you in specific detail. Based on the information you got back from the UOA, you could then decide what oil is best for you. Lets say your car had elevated fuel levels in the oil shortening it's lifespan, then you might decide that a cheaper oil and more frequent changes was a better route for you.
    I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS. It runs great, no leaks. 112000 miles on it. I drive my Talon around every where so I only put about 3000 miles on it in those ten months just joy riding. So I guess I'm good. I'll do more research next time just in case.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Durtie View Post
    I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS. It runs great, no leaks. 112000 miles on it. I drive my Talon around every where so I only put about 3000 miles on it in those ten months just joy riding. So I guess I'm good. I'll do more research next time just in case.
    "Leaks" wont be something you can see. I'm talking about fuel seeping past rings, pinholes in gaskets allowing small amounts of water into the oil. The outside of your engine could be spotless. My guess is that you're just fine goin 5-7k on a 00 celica, if you want to know for sure, test is the only way.

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    Thanks, I'll send it off then.

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    Is that a hose clamp and safety wire holding your filter in place? Interesting and understand the purpose, but never seen that done.
    02' Miata




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    From a lubrication standpoint synthetics in general may be better in a high RPM or race engine setting, but have no real benefits for lubrication in a otherwise stock engine. There are negligible mpg savings as long as the weight is the same.

    Also, synthetic and good fossil oils both suffer the same fate in a combustion engine: contamination from the combustion process. Meaning in the same amount of mileage they will be equally contaminated. This is why I always run plain mobil or castrol 5w30 for 5k miles in my vehicles with OEM filters.

    I remember a several years back we had a Corolla customer come in to my previous work. Vehicle had 35k on the engine and 2 oil changes with AMSOIL. Spun bearing. Only one i'd ever seen on a low mileage engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
    Is that a hose clamp and safety wire holding your filter in place? Interesting and understand the purpose, but never seen that done.
    yeah, filter screwed tight and the wire+clamp to prevent it from loosening.

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    Quote Originally Posted by green91 View Post
    From a lubrication standpoint synthetics in general may be better in a high RPM or race engine setting, but have no real benefits for lubrication in a otherwise stock engine. There are negligible mpg savings as long as the weight is the same.

    Also, synthetic and good fossil oils both suffer the same fate in a combustion engine: contamination from the combustion process. Meaning in the same amount of mileage they will be equally contaminated. This is why I always run plain mobil or castrol 5w30 for 5k miles in my vehicles with OEM filters.

    I remember a several years back we had a Corolla customer come in to my previous work. Vehicle had 35k on the engine and 2 oil changes with AMSOIL. Spun bearing. Only one i'd ever seen on a low mileage engine.
    repeating what i said, but not understanding the most crucial point. While synthetic vs nonsynthetic is not that major of a deal..... oils are not created equally.

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    I understand the "crucial point" very well. I certainly understand that not all oils are equal. Hence why i also specified the brands that i generally run personally rather than the cheapest oil you can buy.

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    Thats some good stuff. Found these to sort of validate what i've read in this thread -

    Castrol Syntec is not a Synthetic Oil - F150online Forums

    Which are true(!) PAO (Class IV) Motor Oil brands? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

    For me i'd rather use a "Class 4" oil. So i guess back to Mobil 1 it is for me. I like knowing my money is going towards a true synthetic for my motor.

    So Amsoil - Does this oil test better than Mobil 1? And provide longer change intervals?

    I see the website and read information about it and just seemed so infomercial like. Maybe that's where Mobil 1 wins in the marketing strategy.


    Honda - supplying products of the highest quality at a reasonable cost. Member of the high mileage club.

    BODHI - "whats the lowest you will take" then dont even bother posting in this thread! i dont have the time wasting on fuckin dumbfucks who dont know how shit works -- which is me, selling a phone and expecting someone to buy it. At least have some balls to tell me that youre too cheap to buy or say - fuck shoot me a pm if youre too embarrassed

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    Quote Originally Posted by green91 View Post
    I understand the "crucial point" very well. I certainly understand that not all oils are equal. Hence why i also specified the brands that i generally run personally rather than the cheapest oil you can buy.
    yeah, but you said there's "no lubrication benefit to synthetic" which isnt exactly true either. Synthetic degrades slower than crude and maintains it's viscosity longer. Even if Xbrand crude tests about the same as Xbrand synthetic, the crude is going to sheer down quicker than the synthetic. Most typical shelf brands drop a weight half way thru the interval.... vs the synthetics which allow you to drop a weight below your recommendation since it's more sheer stable. Temperature is a bigger factor than being a "high rpm race engine" a jeep going on a camping trip in arizona would put much more stress on a oil than a corvette on road atlanta.

    Quote Originally Posted by civicturbo10 View Post
    Thats some good stuff. Found these to sort of validate what i've read in this thread -

    Castrol Syntec is not a Synthetic Oil - F150online Forums

    Which are true(!) PAO (Class IV) Motor Oil brands? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

    For me i'd rather use a "Class 4" oil. So i guess back to Mobil 1 it is for me. I like knowing my money is going towards a true synthetic for my motor.

    So Amsoil - Does this oil test better than Mobil 1? And provide longer change intervals?

    I see the website and read information about it and just seemed so infomercial like. Maybe that's where Mobil 1 wins in the marketing strategy.
    Amsoil tests better than Mobil and lasts longer. Mobil is good oil though and like you said, is a true synthetic.

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    Since you all know alot more about oil than me let me ask you this...

    2006 G's are known to have oil consumption issues, would using a certain type or weight or brand of oil help prevent me from having OC issues? I don't notice any OC issue yet in my specific car(an 06 G), but I've only had it 2 months and I want to make sure I do everything I can so it doesn't burn excessive oil.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RL... View Post
    Since you all know alot more about oil than me let me ask you this...

    2006 G's are known to have oil consumption issues, would using a certain type or weight or brand of oil help prevent me from having OC issues? I don't notice any OC issue yet in my specific car(an 06 G), but I've only had it 2 months and I want to make sure I do everything I can so it doesn't burn excessive oil.
    Usually when a car consumes oil with age, the only remedy for it is thicker oil so that it leaks out slower. Some people use additives like lucas oil stabilizer, but those are just thickeners and have no real positive chemical properties outside of oil thickening. So you're better off just stepping up a weight in whatever good quality oil you chose.

    but...... Nissans are a little different. Theyre real sensitive about crank case ventilation. Need to keep your PCVs clean. The oil youre consuming is probably just being sucked down your intake.

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