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    Banned LS2ner's Avatar
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    Default How would you...

    Build a LS block for a ls/vtec all motor engine? I was thinking of over boring to like 84.5 maybe and sleeving, running CP or Type R pistons to bump the compression up to 12+:1 and using eagle connectiong rods. That sound like a decent idea? From what a few people on H-T say, the LS/vtec isnt a reliable all motor engine.. is there any truth in that?

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Just talk to Vteckidd, he is currently building an Lsvtec for his personal car. He can tell you how reliable they are.

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    IA Juinor Member Mr_S13®'s Avatar
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    In my personal opinion, an ls/vtec is just as reliable as any motor out there if it is built correctly. The only drawbacks from an ls/vtec result from the factory bottom end not being designed to rev to the point where this setup is going to make the most power. But if you do something to correct this such as balancing the rotating assembly, reinforcing everything and installing better than factory parts, you should have a very powerful and reliable all motor car.
    [SIGPIC]

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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    I am waiting on a book from vteckidd. lol

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    LS/VTEC

    if you want it RELIABLE you must do AT LEAST THE FOLLOWING IMO.

    Tear down LS block, bore and hone, BALANCE ROTATING ASSEMBLY.
    -YOu cannot bore a FACTORY block past 82mm. If you want 84mm+ you have to sleeve it, that makes the block a 2.0 with that big of a bore.

    Sleeving costs $1000 MINIMUM

    IMO, Throw PR3 pistons (B16), ARP 2000 series rod bolts so you can rev it to 8500rpms. Rod bolts are the weak point, not the rods.

    with a GSR head your compression will be like 11.5:1+
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    Banned LS2ner's Avatar
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    Yea if i was gonna bore i was most definately gonna sleeve with some GE's. So the block isnt all the important to build? Im just trying to figure out how to squeeze as much power out as possible without spending 12k+

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    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2ner
    Yea if i was gonna bore i was most definately gonna sleeve with some GE's. So the block isnt all the important to build? Im just trying to figure out how to squeeze as much power out as possible without spending 12k+
    well if you dont sleeve it, you can run OEM pistons and get the compression you want. OEM =cheaper than forged.

    If you go 84.5mm aka sleeve it, your looking at $1000 minimum for the block, $800-900 for forged rods and pistons

    its gets expensive, but its definetly worth it
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