B20Z mild NA build, need some opinions...

[honduh]

I have a b20z in the car already. I'm looking into stage 2 cams, skunk 2 intake mani and t/b, different header and exhaust setup than I have now, and later on running a 75 shot with a good safe tune.

What are some good cams to go with and what sizes would be recommended?
What size t/b should I go with also I have the options of a 60, 66, and 70?

oh and also, I'm throwing an engine codee 1337 i think it was, its a ckf?? is this the samething as the crank position sensor??

[FasTech]

Sell me the head and get you another one to build!..lol

[honduh]

haha, 500 bucks

[southside]

Crower 404s are good cams but you will have to upgrade valve springs.whizkid has a skunk2 intake manifold for sale.Headers I would get hytech reps. from the vtecckid and exhaust I would use 2.5.Also invest in drag radials or slicks

[southside]

you might also wanna check on a port and polish job.To get that head flowing but thats just my

[DC2NR]

you might also wanna check on a port and polish job.To get that head flowing but thats just my

and a valve job

[southside]

^^^forgot about that.Three angle valve job

[southside]

nonvtec.com has alot of info on b20 and ls motors

[honduh]

alright sweet thanks a lot man!!

[Barefoot]

oh and also, I'm throwing an engine codee 1337 i think it was, its a ckf?? is this the samething as the crank position sensor??

a few things that can be
1. a short
2. bad crankshsft fluctuation sensor
3. bad ecu

personally i dont think its an ecu or a short unless uve had some recent work done in that area.

im going to go with a bad sensor

[93delsol15]

i think you should just sell your car and go play in traffic...

[TheChosenOne]

i think you should just sell your car and go play in traffic...

Dammm... that's phucked up.

To answer your question, it all depends on three things:
1. Time
2. Money
3. Power Goals

If you have alot of the first two and you want as much power as possible, the you can afford to build the bottomend with high compression forged pistons. Also, if money and time aren't a factor, I would also suggest the Port & Polish with the 3-5 angle valve job. Get the head shaved, and slap a full valvetrain rehaul in that bad boy! Full top-of-the-line bolt ons from there...

... That's in an idealistic world that few of us get to live in. Since you said, it's already in the car, all of this would only be able to be achieved if you baught a whole other motor build while you still drove the other one. Get a good header, intake, and a mild cam, and tune it. Spray... 50 shot.

The tourque of the B20 mathced with the added power from the upgraded flow will equal a nice moderate streetable setup. But, for more power, more money and time will be required.

[allmotorX]

Dammm... that's phucked up.

yea it is

[southside]

Dammm... that's phucked up.

To answer your question, it all depends on three things:
1. Time
2. Money
3. Power Goals

If you have alot of the first two and you want as much power as possible, the you can afford to build the bottomend with high compression forged pistons. Also, if money and time aren't a factor, I would also suggest the Port & Polish with the 3-5 angle valve job. Get the head shaved, and slap a full valvetrain rehaul in that bad boy! Full top-of-the-line bolt ons from there...

... That's in an idealistic world that few of us get to live in. Since you said, it's already in the car, all of this would only be able to be achieved if you baught a whole other motor build while you still drove the other one. Get a good header, intake, and a mild cam, and tune it. Spray... 50 shot.

The tourque of the B20 mathced with the added power from the upgraded flow will equal a nice moderate streetable setup. But, for more power, more money and time will be required.

why do some many give advice to spray. I've seen the horrible things that,it does its worser than seeing crackheads on rock.