I bet your EGT's are pretty high
Printable View
I bet your EGT's are pretty high
those 11.7 AFR's are perfectly fine.
I bet his EGTs arent high, 11.7 should keep them nice and cool as long as the timing isnt way advanced
things that i would look at have pretty much been answered in the preceeding pages. things to look at when there are issues such as yours:
1. ngk plugs 7's or 8's (7's fine for your power level) gapped down like you have them
2. honda cap, rotor, and wires
3. 93 octane. you laugh, but i've seen my share of cars come to the dyno with 87 octane in them.
4. restriction in the exhuast, cat, etc
5. too small of an air filter
6. no intake pipe on the turbo and no wastegate dump or poorly placed dump that dumps exhaust right near/into the turbo.
7. base timing/dizzy wrong (too low or too high)
8. cam timing off. h series have been known to jump timing
9. too much/too little timing in the map
10. poor flowing manifold/poor flowing intake pipes
11. wrong sized turbo
12. imbalanced turbo that slightly scrubs housing restricting flow.
13. hurt motor
ask yourself these questions and do a compression test to rule out the motor itself.
hope that helps. feel free to give me a call if you want to discuss.
Pardon my ignorance....but could you elaborate a little more? :???:Quote:
Originally Posted by Big J
EGT=exhaust gas tempQuote:
Originally Posted by 19'sPrelude
He thinks because your turbo is so small, and the graph is so choppy that you have high EGTs.
I disagree because:
1) Ed knows when a car is detonating, and when EGTs are too hot
2) 11.7:1 a/f shouldnt cause high EGTs unless your timing is way retarded
cross flow cylinder heads bring cool intake heat in one side and push hot exhaust out the other side, the slower that exhaust can be evacuated the more heat soak of the components that occure and higher compressive forces are required to evacuate exhaust. Compression = heat. The cooling system will pull heat and other components will transfere heat, but enough restriction will cause heat build up and higher EGTs. Once the intake manifold pressure to exhauset manifold pressure ratio swings higher towards the exhaust side, you're going to get more exhaust reversion into the intake manifold and retention in the cylinder. That is going to occure at high flow, ie high RPM WOT, intake charge contamination will kill power output. Your running a turbo on an NA grind so fi you swing the manifolld pressure ratios too far off you're gping to get reversion, heat retention, poor power out put, and preignition/detination just to start. Most likely preignition due to heat, exhaust gasses in the cumbustion cycle lowers peak cylinder pressure by acting as a netural gas and a cumbustion buffer, like an EGR system does. Find a car with a working EGR, disconnect it, do a dyno pull, reconnect it, hang it wide open then do another pull. You work on the exhaust side of that turbo and you should pick up 25-50 hp, I bet you :2cents:.Quote:
Originally Posted by Batlground
yes not enough flow in the turbo could rise the temps but not to unsafe levels.
Well there's definitely no detonation through all RPM ranges. I spent quite a few hours with Ed on the dyno and we went over more information than my brain could handle in that time period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Batlground
Another problem that I'm running into is compressor surge. I'm guessing (from what I've gathered in this thread) that my compressor is making more air than my exhaust housing can get rid of, thus, resulting in my compressor surge. I've got a RFL blow off valve but the spring in it is SUPER strong and I'm only blowing off at higher boost pulls. I've also got a HKS SSQV sitting in my garage, would the HKS be a better/more adjustable blow off valve to put on the car. I'm trying to relieve some of the compressor surge at lower/mid rpms.
OEM Honda plug wires? What are you tuning with?
Yes, I havent (yet) upgraded any of my ignition, dizzy, wires, ect. Tuning with HondataQuote:
Originally Posted by speedminded
Your turbo's exhaust housing is too small.
It's the T34E57T36048 right? http://www.pagparts.com/turbodetail.asp?id=17716Quote:
Originally Posted by GAtegs
Dont take it personally :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Big J
i just disagree its an EGT problem
All of you are prob right, his exhaust housing is too small, causing compressor surge and the wavy graph
yes that seems to be the one, but I can't find garretts model number for it. I've looked high and low on the turbo and had no luckQuote:
Originally Posted by speedminded
Did you ever get that 4th bolt back on the flange and everything tightened?Quote:
Originally Posted by 19'sPrelude
:thinking: What are you talking about? Where was a bolt missing? Where did you see this at?Quote:
Originally Posted by speedminded
NM, i'm thinking about someone I met the other day! Qualude, bodykit, turbo just put on, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19'sPrelude
Get a bigger turbo.
about your compressor surge, this will solve it. i promise.
http://www.advancespeedshop.com/syna...6c87c7af1a8934
a bigger wastegate can also solve his problem...... Not that thats the proper solution but it would fix the problem.
Ha, yeah us "ricers" all look the same these days huh :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by speedminded
Well, I think that seems like the right thing to do. So I'm thinking...GT32?Quote:
Originally Posted by bRiAnMcIvIcS
Well, seeing how I've already spent quite a bit of money on two other blow off valves, I'm going to throw this HKS SSQV on when I get my new turbo and see how that does.Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick4588
Yeah, I'm not 100% happy with my Turbonetics wastegate. I seem to be getting a little creep from it. Tial 38mm FTW :boobies:Quote:
Originally Posted by josh green
exhaust has to go out the WG or throught the turbo. Since you turbo is kinda small, it requires less exhaust for the turbo to reach a certain speed, so more exhaust needs to go out of the WG to maintain boost than w/ a larger turbo. Once your WG is maxing in terms of flow, the one place exhaust is going to go is out the turbo. The turbo speeds up, more boost is made, boost creaps up as more exhaust is made.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19'sPrelude
.
So...whenever I get my new turbo (with a suitable exhaust a/r) I shouldn't see the creep?Quote:
Originally Posted by Big J
its a possibility but I havent really seen anything turbonetics worth a damn anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by 19'sPrelude
"Turblownetics"
Turdbonetics"
you get the idea
turbonetics has some decent products on the standard end of things, their flow control products are always good. If you have a properly sized gate you wont see creep. usually a small housing wont cause creep, thats usually always centered around the wastegate.
Just bought a Tial 38mm and have a brand new HKS SSQV. Now just need to purchase the new turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
hahaah, there's such a bunch of crap in this thread.
you're running .48 exhaust housing, so 10hp per pound is about right. Yes it can be more, but you have small exhaust housing, so deal with it.
considering that your engine/cam timing/dizzy timing are fine, the simple solution for you is CRANK UP THE DAMN BOOST ... duh, till you make 300whp, and call it a day
why did you get stuck at 7psi anywayzzzz
--
now if you have increased the boost and played with the timing and no power increase, then PM me that I can come and look at your thread again and list you a bunch of other reasons about why it could happen like that.
Thank you for your input. However, I'm still running this engine on stock internals so I dont know that "cranking up the damn boost" would be the best idea. I got "stuck" at 7psi for two reasons. One being that I only had a 7psi spring in my wastegate and the second being that I'm still on stock internals.Quote:
Originally Posted by miro_gt
psi doesnt determine how hard you should push stock internals, whp does. making 250whp on 18psi on one turbo is safer than 300whp on 8psi on another. whp is what matters, not psi
I stand corrected :goodjob:Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick4588
the "stage 1" turbine wheel in combo with the .48 housing is the issueQuote:
Originally Posted by miro_gt
I just ordered my T3 60-1 T04S .63A/R so i'll figure out if that was my problem exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big J
that's not quite trueQuote:
Originally Posted by patrick4588
What matters is how you are making the power that you are making. Or in other words, you can have two same engines with different turbo setups and both making 250whp - one of 'um safely and the other not !
I have over 230whp in my stock D at 14psi (it runs at 15 daily), even with the stock fuel pump (lol), and the car has been running hard for over an year (15K miles), where as others blow engines like mine at 160whp ..
Unfortunately, sometimes some people get lucky and negate everything that is "right".
Well, I've got all the "right" stuff for now on a stock block. I just needed to get the right turbo.
So does anyone have any experience on what turbo I should be getting? I'm strongly looking at a T3 60-1 T04S .63A/R hotside. Any other suggestions and numbers to back them up?