Differences Between Tires (Slicks, DR's, Street Slicks, ect)

[Sayajin]

Okay guys.

First and foremost let me ask that you please excuse the ignorance of an AWD man. I have never really had cause to HAVE to do the research on anything but high quality street tires. So, while I realize that this question will seem simple to most of you, I personally have never had a reason to find out the answer.

Anyway, so recently I have been talking to a few RWD guys about their cars and setups and stuff, and we came to talking about tires. Of course I have heard of slicks and both DR's and I thought I knew what they were. However after talking to them, it seems that the tire info is much more complicated than I thought.

So here is my question:

What is the difference between all of the different type of tires? IE. Slicks, DR's, DOT Slicks, ect.?

I had thought that the answer was this:

Slicks are of course a slick tire with no tread. They cant be driven at high speeds for an elongated amount of time and they can not be driven in wet conditions. They are exclusively supposed to be used on the drag strip.


DR's are similar to slicks however they have a tiny bit of tread in them. They dont have quite the same traction abilities as slicks, however they can be used on the street to drive home from the track and such. However once again these are NOT to be used in wet conditions.

Finally, I thought that DOT slicks were like the same as DR's. They are slicks that have a bit of tread in them allowing you to drive them on the street to and from the track. However once again are not to be used in the rain.

Anyway, what is the true differences between them all? As I said above, forgive me for the simple question to some of you, as an AWD man for a number of years, I never had cause to worry about it.

Thanks guys.


-Sayajin

[Lankhoss]

I think you have DOT and DR's backwards. I'm not the expert, but DR's are generally the "next step up" from a regular street tire. They just have a softer compound, and will get stickier than a street tire if you heat them up. Their tread pattern is not good for wet conditions and they are also bad in cold weather.

DOT tires are very much like slicks, yet they will have a couple of grooves in them that are considered "tread".

Like I say, I'm not the expert....but I think that's how it goes.

[TIGERJC]

slicks - have no tread pattern and dont deform under load. Great for dry condition and high hp cars

dot slicks - are heavier than the regular slicks so that can pass the dot requirements. They are tube-type tires, which means deflation is slow which makes it more streetable

DR - soft compound tires that have tread pattern and is great for high hp cars that like to drive on the street


*this is my definition of tires, so I might be wrong*

[Sayajin]

Hummm...

I am also assuming that all of these tires should ONLY be used to go in a straight line? Meaning, if you were running them on the way to the races, you need to brake extra for when that corner comes?

Also, does that mean that most of us would run DR's as opposed to slicks or DOT slicks? As it seems that DR's are the ones that can be run both on the street in the dry and on the track?

-Sayajin

[TIGERJC]

dr can be driven on the street with, but should not be driven in wet weather. dot slicks / slicks are just meant for 1/4 mile runs either on the street or the track. Slicks do not have a long tread life compared to DR. YOU WILL GET MORE TRACTION WITH SLICKS THAN WITH DR'S.

Seeing how you launch your car, you are going to have to have slicks for the track.

[Sayajin]

Hummmm....

But the question is Tiger, how plausible is it to actually run slicks on the street then? I mean say you were going to a race, you obviously wouldnt change tires when you get there, so you would put them on at home and drive there. Is that something that is okay to do with slicks? I mean of course if you were at the track, its no big deal to change them once you get there, but thats a little hard to do on the street. From what I have been told, you NEVER want to run slicks on the street, even if its on the way to a race.

I mean I realize that slicks are the best for traction, im just wondering how plausible they are? Or would you do this: Have a set of track/race wheels and normally keep DR's on them. Then when you are about to go to the track you mount your slicks onto them? I mean I suppose that could work as we dont go to the track THAT much.... just it seems like extra hassle to have to switch tires on the wheels..

-Sayajin

[TIGERJC]

Hummmm....

But the question is Tiger, how plausible is it to actually run slicks on the street then? I mean say you were going to a race, you obviously wouldnt change tires when you get there, so you would put them on at home and drive there. Is that something that is okay to do with slicks? I mean of course if you were at the track, its no big deal to change them once you get there, but thats a little hard to do on the street. From what I have been told, you NEVER want to run slicks on the street, even if its on the way to a race.

Once I sell the mr2, the car I am planning on getting I will have to run slicks on the street if I want to run from a dig. Everyone I know that uses slicks on the street, drives to the location with their drs and change over to slicks once they are about to run.

If you dont like changing your tires everytime you want to run from a dig, I suggest slipping the clutch and get gear dependent boost controller.

I mean I realize that slicks are the best for traction, im just wondering how plausible they are? Or would you do this: Have a set of track/race wheels and normally keep DR's on them. Then when you are about to go to the track you mount your slicks onto them? I mean I suppose that could work as we dont go to the track THAT much.... just it seems like extra hassle to have to switch tires on the wheels..
-Sayajin

I would just buy another set of rims for your slicks

[Sayajin]

Thx for the info Tiger.

Yea, I didint know if people actually changed out their tires once they got to the place. I mean that would make sense if you were staying at one location and were going to run all night, however we always seem to go from location to location. I just didint think people stopped and changed wheels every time they were going to drive to a new location.

Yea, it seems I will need a new set of wheels anyway. I dont think MT even makes tires for an 18' rim in anything less than 305 lol. I had heard that ideally you want 16in wheels and 17in at the max to run slicks. Would you say that it correct?

Also, how much more traction do you really get out of full slicks than say a set of MT DOT slicks?

-Sayajin

[TIGERJC]

I cam guarantee you that you will snap your axles every time you launch on slicks,or break your transfer case. Your launching style (to me) is too hard for stock parts and with all that traction I know for a fact stuff is going to break about every 2-3 passes.

Dot slicks will be find if you need slicks, remember you have awd so you really dont need that much traction. The more traction you get, the more shit you're going to break.

I think DR will get the job done

Dont you have a carbon clutch, if so dont be afraid to slip it.

[Sayajin]

Thanks for the info Tiger. I will keep it in mind.

btw as an aside, Here is som info I picked up from BFG about slicks and radials.

They do not recommend running DR's on a manual tranny car as a DR does not absorb the shock of a clutch drop as slicks do. They suggest only running DR's on auto vehicles.

Now that not to say it CANT be done, so dont come in here saying "well I run them all the time" or anything like that. Im just saying its not recommended, at least from them.

Anyone else ever heard that?

btw, Tiger so you know, a carbon clutch is a non slippable clutch. it is made to be dumped. The manual actually strictly prohibits slipping it. I appreciate the concern for my parts/components however.

-Sayajin

[TIGERJC]

Thanks for the info Tiger. I will keep it in mind.

btw as an aside, Here is som info I picked up from BFG about slicks and radials.

They do not recommend running DR's on a manual tranny car as a DR does not absorb the shock of a clutch drop as slicks do. They suggest only running DR's on auto vehicles.

Now that not to say it CANT be done, so dont come in here saying "well I run them all the time" or anything like that. Im just saying its not recommended, at least from them.

DR do not provide the traction that slciks can, but you need a beefed up drivetrain inorder to dump a clutch on slicks

btw, Tiger so you know, a carbon clutch is a non slippable clutch. it is made to be dumped. The manual actually strictly prohibits slipping it. I appreciate the concern for my parts/components however.

-Sayajin

Carbon clutches are made too take the tough abuse of launching. You can slip or dump it. You have a awd car, if you dump the clutch straight off the line with slicks I bet money you will break something in your drivetrain in 1-3 passes. All you have to do is slip the clutch enough to get the car moving and then you can dump it to get going (that way you wont shock your drivetrain)

This is the guy you should be talking to and u might want to read how he launches
Sticky this bitch: Shallow staging and launching

[TransAmWS6]

There are mustangs running 7 sec 1/4 miles on 10.5 BFG drag radials w/ 1.3 60fts.....they provide plenty of traction

[Lankhoss]

I didn't read the whole thread, but I saw one of your questions.....

Slicks can actually be used at road courses, too. Hoosiers are great for that.

[Leadfoot_mf]

here is some info from another site.

Tips on Drag Slicks

How to Get a Grip and Screw Them to the Rim

By Marko Radielovic

Photography: Marko Radielovic, Steve Magnante

You’ve just put the finishing touches on your new hi-po mill and dropped it in your street machine. It sounds great and runs strong, but every time you mash the throttle, all that increased torque blows the tires away and sends your rod sideways. You’ve come to realize that it’s no faster out of the hole than when it had that old two-barrel lump under hood. The problem is a lack of traction. What to do? You could opt for a set of slicks, go the drag radial route, or walk the middle ground with a D.O.T.-legal slick. Here are a few pointers about picking tires, how to take care of them, and also a simple method for making sure they stick to the rims.

As indicated by their name, drag radials have a radial carcass designed to maximize off-the-line traction by using a soft compound and a reduced tread depth. Unlike slicks, drag radials maintain a stiff sidewall that ensures stability at high speeds, making them the most streetable of the three types of drag tires. While offering superior traction compared to ordinary radials, we’ll focus on slicks as they require a different approach to care and feeding.

There are several D.O.T.-legal slicks available and they all share some common features—a soft compound and a two-ply wrinkle-wall construction, just like their cousin the drag slick. These tires are virtually slicks, but with grooves so they are legal for street use. (That doesn’t mean, however, that they are suitable on rain-slicked streets.)

Drag slicks are racing tires which offer uncompromised traction. As the name implies, slicks have no tread so as to maximize the contact of the tire. Like the D.O.T.-legal slicks, drag slicks feature a soft compound and a soft, two-ply sidewall designed to wrinkle on launch. These tires should never be used on the street. If you were to get caught in the rain or drive through a puddle, they would instantly hydroplane. Also, due to their soft construction, slicks are prone to punctures, and handling is compromised.

Are Tubes Necessary?

Hoosier Racing Tires recommends that when its ’’Quick Time’’ DOT tires are used on the street, they should have an inner tube because race tires are inherently susceptible to air leakage. That’s because they’re constructed of a very light-gauge material needed to perform in various racing applications. In contrast, a radial tire’s stiff wall construction lends itself to an excellent mechanical seal against the rim. A slick’s soft sidewall is at a disadvantage in this regard. So, if your car spends any time on the street with DOT slicks and you don’t want to refill them every few days, then by all means run an inner tube. Also, a tube will stiffen the sidewall of your slick, and possibly enable it to respond more quickly off the line by providing a more effective coupling between the rim and pavement. When having your slicks mounted, soapy water can be used to lubricate, but wax should be avoided as it may cause the tire to slip more easily on the rim (see sidebar below on how to screw tires to the rim).

Studying Your Footprints

How does tire pressure affect traction? Proper inflation is one of the single most important factors in the performance of a drag slick (this includes slicks of the DOT-legal variety). Traction can be dialed-in by adjusting tire pressure up or down. In order to determine how much pressure your particular tires require you must find a clean piece of pavement, preferably off the highway. Next, make sure that both rear tires have identical air pressure. Then, do a short burnout and examine the marks. As the pictures indicate, an over-inflated tire will leave a mark that is dark in the center, but light on the edges. This is known as ’’crowning.’’ An under-inflated tire on the other hand will show dark edges and a light center indicating that the tire is cupping. This procedure can also be used on radial tires. The final picture of this series shows what the proper pressure looks like: an even contact patch the entire width of the slick.

That’s not all there is to it, though. Small incremental changes in tire pressure can have a meaningful affect on traction. Mickey Thompson Tires recommends adjusting your tire pressure up or down in half pound increments to precisely tune your slicks to the race track’s conditions. Tire pressure will affect your reaction time. Keep in mind that an underinflated tire reacts more slowly than one with more air pressure.

So, you keep reducing the pressure in your tires and your 60-foot time (also known as your short time) keeps dropping. All well and good, but you also begin noticing that the car is no longer stable on the other end of the track. Reducing air pressure in your slicks often improves traction, but often the tradeoff is reduced stabilty. They say you haven’t lived until you’ve done the ’’slick dance’’ through the lights at a buck-fifteen-plus. Remember, eight pounds of tire pressure is great at the starting line, but those same eight pounds are holding up the back end of the car while you are hurtling down the track. Be sensible with tire pressure. It’s better to give up a couple of hundredths of a second on your 60-foot time to avoid a catastrophe on the big end.

How do you get a handle on air pressure? Don’t expect to use an ordinary auto parts store tire gauge; you know, the type that fits in your pocket like a pen. The instrument used to measure tire pressure in a drag slick needs to be capable of reading accurately at low pressures. Any mail-order parts house offers a variety of good tire gauges for this purpose. Expect to pay between $20.00 and $250.00—it’s a worthwhile investment.

Hazing the Hides

Now imagine yourself in the staging lanes at the local dragstrip, new slicks mounted on the back, waiting for a turn in the water box. A million things are going through your head: Do I roll through the water? Do I do my burnout in the water? How long of a burnout should I do?

Every slick manufacturer recommends a different burnout procedure with their tires, and most racers have their own techniques as well. The manufacturer’s suggestions should be followed, but ultimately, the method you use is better determined through testing and tuning of a particular combination. After their burnout, some racers perform dry-hops—barking the tires without the aid of water. Others prefer to immediately stage after smoking the hides. The burnout accomplishes two important tasks: 1) It cleans the surface of the slick allowing it to perform to its capacity; and 2) It heats the tire, softening the rubber, enabling it provide traction.

Mickey Thompson recommends that the first burnout of the day be a hard one while subsequent burnouts should be light. Some slicks require a minimal burnout to clean and soften the rubber. Racers sometimes employ traction enhancing chemicals on the starting line surface. These traction compounds, such as VHT, greatly enhance the traction capabilities of a slick-type tire. It is used on the starting line for racers to do their burnouts providing a surface that works like glue. VHT allows for an even more aggressive launch.

Handle With Care

Unlike street tires, slicks require special handling. Under no circumstances should slicks be stored outdoors, because this will accelerate dry rot. A slick with cracked sidewalls is unsafe and should be discarded. If stored off of a vehicle, slicks should be sealed in opaque plastic bags and kept out of direct light, either sunlight or fluorescent, also extremes in temperature. If stored on a vehicle, weight should be taken off of them by elevating the rear of the car with jack stands (never use a jack for this purpose!). The weight of a vehicle can eventually distort a pair of slicks. These tires should be treated with the utmost respect as they play a crucial role in your car’s performance and your safety.

[Leadfoot_mf]

NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE: All Hoosier Racing Tires including DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires are designed for racing purposes only on specified racing surfaces and are not to be operated on public roadways. DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department Of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and possible injury or death.

[Leadfoot_mf]

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/performance_tires/

[Leadfoot_mf]

http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild...st_comparison/

[Hunter02SS]

Keep in mind that the slick's are a biased tire also. Drag radial's are designed to have the air let out them also but not like a slick is.Drag radial's for the street and slick's for the track.Unless you get MT et street's which are a slick for the street.:boobies:

[secondgencamaro]

I'm actually looking into getting the Hoosier Quick-Time Pro DOT tires on a second set of wheels for the weekends. In regards to the issue with highway use, from most of the info I have looked at they'll do fine around town with tubes, but under consistent use on the freeway at freeway speeds, the tires will blister due to their soft compound. From what I've seen/heard short trips on the freeway are fine. If the thread is still up after I pinch the pennies to get the tires, I'll post back up my thoughts on them.

NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE: All Hoosier Racing Tires including DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires are designed for racing purposes only on specified racing surfaces and are not to be operated on public roadways. DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department Of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and possible injury or death.

[Init2winit]

In a short, slicks usually have a soft compound, and soft sidewall. Drag Radials have a little harder compound, and a stiffer sidewall, and of course are belted radial tires. Dot slicks are basically a drag slick with grooves, but have a little bit harder compound and sidewall, but not belted.

[Brick]

Pictures make life easy...

Drag Radials...



DOT Slicks


Slicks




To add to the thread, I've had Nitto Drag Radials (the second example of DRs) on a daily driven car before. It's not too horribly bad in the wet if you're careful. I'd never do it with DOT slicks though. I've also known people to drive 50 miles or so on slicks on the way home, just in case some after track play time was needed. However, they swap back to their street tires after home.