if i do a 13B turbo engine swap can i keep my auto?

[OneSlow5pt0]

no automatic hating please,just want to know

[kfzemx3]

hmmmm so long as it within spec of how much power the auto can hold, i dont see why you couldn't. you would have to build the turbo setup to work with your tranny runs i would think

[HalfBaked]

You could buy a 13b clip with an auto tranny and I don't see why that wouldn't work.

[sean8564]

Exactly you need to check and make sur the motor is ok first before you put it in. You can easly do that with a clip just hook up a Fuel bottle

[David88vert]

Worse case scenario, I have a auto tranny from a 20B that would probably work.

[Bridged]

The N/A manual transmission is so brittle and weak the trans will break before you get out of first and that's a manual. Automatic N/A trannies on FC's are worse. They won't even hold the stock HP the T2 S4 puts out though all gears, let alone an S5 (because you would have to use an S5 13BT). So you could do the swap and never drive the car unless you want to replace your tranny every 10 miles.

If you went with the 20B transmission, you would need a custom driveshaft, halfshafts, and 20b rearend. And good luck finding those, lol. If you do! Hope you have the cash, just all that will run you around 10k, not including your T2 engine price or installing any of the parts.

Also Jspec rotaries are a gamble. I have heard MANY horror stories about purchasing them. Go to RX7Club.com and search for jspec. You will want to throw up at what kinda of condition these motors are in when they are shipped to the buyer.

In my opinion you have 3 options..

1. learn clutch.

2. save for your whole life and do a 20B swap. Around 40k or so for a half ass swap.

3. rebuild and port your N/A. You can't go over Extended streetport though because a bridgeport and up needs a TurboII Transmission to handle the power. (Bport puts out around 230-280 on a S5 N/A.)

Halfbaked- The TurboII engine (the 13BT not the 13B) never came in automatic. Not even in japan.

Sorry to disappoint. :goodjob:

[OneSlow5pt0]

yea,iv been looking at 20Bs with auto trann..and they are bout $2K-3K JDM,and my uncle has his own Rotary shop,so,i could save alot of $$$$

[Bridged]

You will not find a good 20B for less than 4k-6k, that's not even with the transmission. 99.9% Jspec import place have no warrenty of rotaries what so ever. A 20B swap in the car and cranks runs about... 20k, that's without installing fees. Also if you have been researching this swap you also know you will have to run a single turbo setup and get rid of the twin turbo, seeing that the twin turbo setup doesn't fit in the engine bay, that's about 2k. Plus you will need a standalone like Haltech because the 20b or the n/a will run the fully custom engine setup you will need to make the car run, another 1-2k. Then there's the fuel, have to custom make your own Engine mounts and custom cooling lines, upgraded radiator, ignition, etc. I could go into the whole detail of how to do this seeing me and a friend done 2 of these swaps, but i'm too lazy. Here is an idea though....

20B engine $4,000
Engine mounts $500
Custom Turbo exhaust manifold $700, seeing that the win wont work
Turbo T72 $1,500, whats the point of doing this swap and then downgrading it with a crappy 500 buck turbo.
Oil/water lines (for turbo) $200
Intake pipe (for turbo) $100
Custom Downpipe $100
Exhaust system $800} This might be optional. If you already have a (larger) aftermarket exhaust system, this might not be necessary. $500 average for a good "cat back" exhaust, and $300 added for a pre-silencer section to be made.
Front-mount intercooler $1,200 3rotors puts out a heatload of heat under boost.
Oil cooler lines $200
Upgrade radiator $500
Custom radiator hoses to fit the 20B inlet/outlets $50-100
Cosmo water pump + housing $300
MSD coils $200
MSD DIS-4 $700
Bosch upgrade fuel pump $200
SS fuel lines and fittings $500
SX FPR $200 Required to control fuel rail pressure
Fuel filters $100 You'd be crazy to not run fuel filters.
Haltech E11 $2,000
Front anti-sway bar $500 Needed the handle the extra weight on an N/A car.
you can see that's way over 10k right there without transmission pricing.

But you said you can do a 20b for around 2-3k seeing that your family can help you out. So when you get it in, post some pics. I would love to see a 20B swap that runs with less than 7k spent. :goodjob:

[OneSlow5pt0]

You will not find a good 20B for less than 4k-6k, that's not even with the transmission. 99.9% Jspec import place have no warrenty of rotaries what so ever. A 20B swap in the car and cranks runs about... 20k, that's without installing fees. Also if you have been researching this swap you also know you will have to run a single turbo setup and get rid of the twin turbo, seeing that the twin turbo setup doesn't fit in the engine bay, that's about 2k. Plus you will need a standalone like Haltech because the 20b or the n/a will run the fully custom engine setup you will need to make the car run, another 1-2k. Then there's the fuel, have to custom make your own Engine mounts and custom cooling lines, upgraded radiator, ignition, etc. I could go into the whole detail of how to do this seeing me and a friend done 2 of these swaps, but i'm too lazy. Here is an idea though....

20B engine $4,000
Engine mounts $500
Custom Turbo exhaust manifold $700, seeing that the win wont work
Turbo T72 $1,500, whats the point of doing this swap and then downgrading it with a crappy 500 buck turbo.
Oil/water lines (for turbo) $200
Intake pipe (for turbo) $100
Custom Downpipe $100
Exhaust system $800} This might be optional. If you already have a (larger) aftermarket exhaust system, this might not be necessary. $500 average for a good "cat back" exhaust, and $300 added for a pre-silencer section to be made.
Front-mount intercooler $1,200 3rotors puts out a heatload of heat under boost.
Oil cooler lines $200
Upgrade radiator $500
Custom radiator hoses to fit the 20B inlet/outlets $50-100
Cosmo water pump + housing $300
MSD coils $200
MSD DIS-4 $700
Bosch upgrade fuel pump $200
SS fuel lines and fittings $500
SX FPR $200 Required to control fuel rail pressure
Fuel filters $100 You'd be crazy to not run fuel filters.
Haltech E11 $2,000
Front anti-sway bar $500 Needed the handle the extra weight on an N/A car.
you can see that's way over 10k right there without transmission pricing.

But you said you can do a 20b for around 2-3k seeing that your family can help you out. So when you get it in, post some pics. I would love to see a 20B swap that runs with less than 7k spent. :goodjob:

thanks for all help though,u really help me,by laying out the stuff

[Doppelgänger]

You will not find a good 20B for less than 4k-6k, that's not even with the transmission. 99.9% Jspec import place have no warrenty of rotaries what so ever. A 20B swap in the car and cranks runs about... 20k, that's without installing fees. Also if you have been researching this swap you also know you will have to run a single turbo setup and get rid of the twin turbo, seeing that the twin turbo setup doesn't fit in the engine bay, that's about 2k. Plus you will need a standalone like Haltech because the 20b or the n/a will run the fully custom engine setup you will need to make the car run, another 1-2k. Then there's the fuel, have to custom make your own Engine mounts and custom cooling lines, upgraded radiator, ignition, etc. I could go into the whole detail of how to do this seeing me and a friend done 2 of these swaps, but i'm too lazy. Here is an idea though....

20B engine $4,000
Engine mounts $500
Custom Turbo exhaust manifold $700, seeing that the win wont work
Turbo T72 $1,500, whats the point of doing this swap and then downgrading it with a crappy 500 buck turbo.
Oil/water lines (for turbo) $200
Intake pipe (for turbo) $100
Custom Downpipe $100
Exhaust system $800} This might be optional. If you already have a (larger) aftermarket exhaust system, this might not be necessary. $500 average for a good "cat back" exhaust, and $300 added for a pre-silencer section to be made.
Front-mount intercooler $1,200 3rotors puts out a heatload of heat under boost.
Oil cooler lines $200
Upgrade radiator $500
Custom radiator hoses to fit the 20B inlet/outlets $50-100
Cosmo water pump + housing $300
MSD coils $200
MSD DIS-4 $700
Bosch upgrade fuel pump $200
SS fuel lines and fittings $500
SX FPR $200 Required to control fuel rail pressure
Fuel filters $100 You'd be crazy to not run fuel filters.
Haltech E11 $2,000
Front anti-sway bar $500 Needed the handle the extra weight on an N/A car.
you can see that's way over 10k right there without transmission pricing.

But you said you can do a 20b for around 2-3k seeing that your family can help you out. So when you get it in, post some pics. I would love to see a 20B swap that runs with less than 7k spent. :goodjob:

Fuck it... a well tuned n/a 20B will still make more power the nmost street 13bt's :) Throw a mild port on the now n/a 20B and you're looking at 300+rwhp.

I know Downing took a 20b and made a custom intake manifold and exhaust and tuned it and made something like 320-330hp...without porting.
Still dont get why a low demand motor is priced so high. I know a guy up in Sugar Hill who has many 20B's just sitting around still in the wrap they came in from shipping... and he wont sell them.

[Bridged]

Fuck it... a well tuned n/a 20B will still make more power the nmost street 13bt's :) Throw a mild port on the now n/a 20B and you're looking at 300+rwhp.

I know Downing took a 20b and made a custom intake manifold and exhaust and tuned it and made something like 320-330hp...without porting.
Still dont get why a low demand motor is priced so high. I know a guy up in Sugar Hill who has many 20B's just sitting around still in the wrap they came in from shipping... and he wont sell them.
I bet my cars title a stock FC with just the minium for a 20B swap with an n/a setup with a mild port would not go over 250whp. A 26A is a differnet story.

When people come up to me and ask for a Mild port I laugh and tell them it's not even worth my time opening up the engine to do it. You get MAYBE 5 to 10% gain, and that's with tuning and proper setup.

PS: I want a picture of this man you speak of with all the 20b's in his yard, I would like to have it as a wallpaper for my PC, cause that's crazy!

Now what you could do is 20B and N/A it and use Renesis Rotors, Ceramic Seals, and Extended port. Would put you around the 300hp range.

[David88vert]

I have to disagree with you Bridged. Why? Based on personal experience. A 20B done N/A with no porting (tuned right) is approx 300hp. There are a couple in Florida that I know of.
A S4 N/A tranny can hold 250rwhp. I've done it on my old FB. There are a lot more factors than just horsepower in tranny strength, and I've gone into with lata on here. Granted, drag launchs will kill it a lot faster than street driving.
A 20B tranny is not very difficult to put in - if you know what you are doing. Driveshafts are easy to make. Tranny crossmembers are easy to make. And you could use a T2 rear end. It's no different than putting the T2 tranny in on the rear end.
Even better, I think that I might have a couple of auto FD trannys sitting. I know that I have at least one.

Now as to cost of putting in a 20B in a FC, I totally agree with Bridged. Youa re looking at $17K-$20K to do the swap - if you do it yourself. If you are really cheap, possibly $12K. If you have access to tons of rotary parts, like I do, maybe, you could do $7K-8K, but not easily. The cheapest that I have found a good 20B for was $2800 in Miami. More often, they are $3500-$5000. And if you go through the trouble of putting in a 20B, and doing it right, get a good manual tranny and a good rearend. Because you will abuse it. If you don't, you don't deserve it ......

BTW - I see you are in Columbus. Do you know the PR guys down there?

[OneSlow5pt0]

so i best bet..is get the T2,and get a auto FD or auto Cosmo transmission

[Doppelgänger]

PS: I want a picture of this man you speak of with all the 20b's in his yard, I would like to have it as a wallpaper for my PC, cause that's crazy!


A man by the name of Dennis Spensor owns the shop. I worked there in the composites side of the bldg. and saw them over there. They were running a 20br in a ALMS LMP. He bought the motos thinking he could use them as interchange parts with his race car....but it turns out the Cosmo 20b's and the mazdacomp 20b's he had were different. Not the Cosmo 20b's just collect dust. If you really want to try, a company by the name of Composite Technologies, call them and get the other shops number (same bulding). Place is in Buford Ga.

Sorry, no pics... worked there a few years ago and last i heard the engines were still there.

[David88vert]

so i best bet..is get the T2,and get a auto FD or auto Cosmo transmission

No, your best bet is keep the one you have, PLUS get a T2 for a play car, and keep it manual. Forget the automatic, unless you plan to make it a drag car.

For your current car, get a RB exhaust, mild suspension, and put a small nitrous shot on it for when you feel the need for some power. Notice I said small shot.

Converting your car to a T2 is more expensive than taking that money, selling your FC, and taking all of the cash to buy a really nice FC, or even an ok FD.

[David88vert]

A man by the name of Dennis Spensor owns the shop. I worked there in the composites side of the bldg. and saw them over there. They were running a 20br in a ALMS LMP. He bought the motos thinking he could use them as interchange parts with his race car....but it turns out the Cosmo 20b's and the mazdacomp 20b's he had were different. Not the Cosmo 20b's just collect dust. If you really want to try, a company by the name of Composite Technologies, call them and get the other shops number (same bulding). Place is in Buford Ga.

Sorry, no pics... worked there a few years ago and last i heard the engines were still there.

You're talking about Team Spencer. Very good shop. HITman used to do some of their tunning for the race cars. They spend big money to do it right.
http://www.teamspencer.com/ (http://www.teamspencer.com/2005/)