Rb's

[B00stLek]

I want in and outs of all the rb's hp ranges, problems, and swap problems in S13 :???:

[sean8564]

not to many problems the
RB20 is rated 215 BHp
RB25 is rated 250 Bhp
Rb26 is the grandaddy of them all 280 Hp

all of them are straight 6
to install it into a S-13
you need eather R32 crossmember
or a set of mounts from eather Top hat or mckinney
the RB25 you need a driveshaft made as well
the RB26 you need a custom DP if you want to keep twin turbos
RB20 Tranny for 400 HP RB25 Tranny for more like 700 Hp
and a Rb25 oil pan plus a drive shaft.
then just the wiring harness and if you want a tach for a 6 cyl

[B00stLek]

thanks :goodjob:

[sean8564]

If you have more questions just ask

[HalfBaked]

The problem with an rb20 is that it is a piece of shit.

Super heavy motor with shitty displacement.

[sean8564]

Seems to work very well in the R32.

[HalfBaked]

Seems to work very well in the R32.
The gts is a piece of shit.

[sean8564]

:screwy: :screwy:

[Maki]

rb24 ftw. Oh yeah and i have mounts all day long......

[Krazykouki]

Don't do an RB. If you do anything do an SR. It will cost you alot of money to get your RB where you want it to be, I know where you and Jeff want to be with your cars and its going to cost ALOT of money.

If you do choose RB's you know where I live and you know I know more about them than pretty much everyone on this site.

[sean8564]

Don't do an RB. If you do anything do an SR. It will cost you alot of money to get your RB where you want it to be, I know where you and Jeff want to be with your cars and its going to cost ALOT of money.


This is not exactly true. The RB can be made to make decent power pretty easy and parts are fairly easy to come by as well. The SR in my opinion is a very inferior motor to the RB25 which can be had for a little less than the SR motor set. By the time you add the drive shaft and mounts and install you are looking at a car that is 40BHp more torque and is faster for around the same price as a SR swap. We put a RB in to our Sileighty which is from Japan and it pulled harder and it is faster stock than a friends S-14 with a FMIC Boost controller exhaust BOV and a few other minor upgrades the 180 will pull on that car all day long. and the only aftermarket part on the motor is a HKS SSQV. The SR swap is the fanboy thing to do hell in our JDM car we are swaping out for diffrent motors.

[Krazykouki]

This is not exactly true. The RB can be made to make decent power pretty easy and parts are fairly easy to come by as well. The SR in my opinion is a very inferior motor to the RB25 which can be had for a little less than the SR motor set. By the time you add the drive shaft and mounts and install you are looking at a car that is 40BHp more torque and is faster for around the same price as a SR swap. We put a RB in to our Sileighty which is from Japan and it pulled harder and it is faster stock than a friends S-14 with a FMIC Boost controller exhaust BOV and a few other minor upgrades the 180 will pull on that car all day long. and the only aftermarket part on the motor is a HKS SSQV. The SR swap is the fanboy thing to do hell in our JDM car we are swaping out for diffrent motors.

you want my honest opinion..well..FUCK RB20/25/26...fuck SR's...

RB30 all the way...6G72 all the way...2JZGTE...all the way...

RB25 is a weak motor, its worse than the RB20..RB25 will never be what the Rb20 or 25 was...its a piece of shit...my bone stock RB 20 I had beat an RB25 car. Then my friend beat a RB26 power 240sx and him and I are just as fast as one another. My opinion...best bang for your buck is not an RB at all...

6G72 or 2JZ

[Capt._Ron]

It all depends on what you want to do with the car. The light weight sr will give you as close to a 50/50 weight ratio but the rb does have 2 more cylinders and an extra .5 liter. but its an iron block. Just say no to the rb 20 its pointless.

[StupidBikerBoy]

you want my honest opinion..well..FUCK RB20/25/26...fuck SR's...

RB30 all the way...6G72 all the way...2JZGTE...all the way...

RB25 is a weak motor, its worse than the RB20..RB25 will never be what the Rb20 or 25 was...its a piece of shit...my bone stock RB 20 I had beat an RB25 car. Then my friend beat a RB26 power 240sx and him and I are just as fast as one another. My opinion...best bang for your buck is not an RB at all...

6G72 or 2JZ

Best bang for your buck is not an RB in most situations, but I wouldn't take any motor over my RB26. Yes 2JZ is cheaper, but thats the only advantage it has. And they don't have the powerband an RB26 has. A stock RB26 redlines over 1000 rpm higher, and can go quite higher with small amounts of work. Which is really nice when you slap a big single on it.

An RB25 is MUCH stronger than an RB20, and the RB26 is on another level. You may have outran an RB25, but that doesn't really mean anything. Hell, I outran a vette in a civic once.

I say RB25 if you're on a budget, or go all they way with the 26. You can easily put down 300+ with no issues on the stock 25 and without spending much money.

And if you are willing to crossbreed, don't bother with anything other than an LS1, its the only one worth crossbreeding IMO. Reliable 400+ HP and 25+ mpg. That is if you can get over the sound.:lmfao:

Oh, and an RB30 block is quite a bit taller than the other RB's and won't fit in a 240 unless don't mind running a hole on your hood or a big ole mullet hood scoop.

[StupidBikerBoy]

It all depends on what you want to do with the car. Deffinately:goodjob:


Just say no to the rb 20 its pointless.

Not entirely true. General rule of thumb, more valve surface = more power.

But the other advantages of the SR usually outweigh the advantages of the rb20. Personally, if wouldn't do an RB swap unless it was atleast a 25.

[Krazykouki]

Best bang for your buck is not an RB in most situations, but I wouldn't take any motor over my RB26. Yes 2JZ is cheaper, but thats the only advantage it has. And they don't have the powerband an RB26 has. A stock RB26 redlines over 1000 rpm higher, and can go quite higher with small amounts of work. Which is really nice when you slap a big single on it. On moch up, with a set of certian mounts all you have to do is trim a little off the hood reinforcement, thats it..other than that the RB30 looks like an everyday RB25.

An RB25 is MUCH stronger than an RB20, and the RB26 is on another level. You may have outran an RB25, but that doesn't really mean anything. Hell, I outran a vette in a civic once.

I say RB25 if you're on a budget, or go all they way with the 26. You can easily put down 300+ with no issues on the stock 25 and without spending much money.

And if you are willing to crossbreed, don't bother with anything other than an LS1, its the only one worth crossbreeding IMO. Reliable 400+ HP and 25+ mpg. That is if you can get over the sound.:lmfao:

Oh, and an RB30 block is quite a bit taller than the other RB's and won't fit in a 240 unless don't mind running a hole on your hood or a big ole mullet hood scoop.

You know how many times I have heard that before?..LOL..I can make an RB30 fit with no problems. Shit I helped make a VH45DETT with a 5 speed fit into a 300zx...it runs and drives today..and everyday...for the past 2 years....yes...we did have to cut the hood on that but everyone said it could not be done. The RB30 isnt but about an inch taller than the RB20 if the RB25DE head is used.

Im not going to talk to much shit about it but I know if I put 5g's into 6g72 or an rb26...with the RB26 being in a 240sx chassis...the 6g72 will destroy the the RB26.

RB period in a 240sx is not smart...to do it right and get correct power you need ALOT of money..thing about..one KEY factor is its a front sump engine in the 240sx...you need a custom pan...thats 1200+/- right there. Mount kits, wiring, etc..etc..etc..SR is cheaper and its faster in a 240sx.

[StupidBikerBoy]

You know how many times I have heard that before?..LOL..I can make an RB30 fit with no problems. Shit I helped make a VH45DETT with a 5 speed fit into a 300zx...it runs and drives today..and everyday...for the past 2 years....yes...we did have to cut the hood on that but everyone said it could not be done. The RB30 isnt but about an inch taller than the RB20 if the RB25DE head is used .

I believe thats exactly what I said, you'd have to cut the hood. And to be exact, the RB30 block is 44mm taller than the 25 or 26 block.


Im not going to talk to much shit about it but I know if I put 5g's into 6g72 or an rb26...with the RB26 being in a 240sx chassis...the 6g72 will destroy the the RB26.

We can internet race all night long. Im sure thats possible, and so is the opposite. It depends on quite a bit. Parts for a 6G72 are typically more expensive and theres not really a big following for them. And you have to be joking about a 6G72 destroying an RB26 240. 1000 lbs less weight AND more power potential.

What does your 6g72 put down? I have less than $5k in my RB26 build.


RB period in a 240sx is not smart...to do it right and get correct power you need ALOT of money..thing about..one KEY factor is its a front sump engine in the 240sx...you need a custom pan...thats 1200+/- right there. Mount kits, wiring, etc..etc..etc..


See now I'm starting to think you don't know anything about RB's or swapping them in a 240. You're way off.

1. Show me one person that spent $1200 on the oil pan. Mine cost $120 shipped BRAND NEW. And you only need that on the 26 swap.

2. To do it right and get "correct power" doesn't require any more than any other engine would, especially an SR. This is not the 90's, RB parts are not hard to get anymore.

3. Driveshaft and IC piping is the ONLY things you have to have custom. You can mount an RB in a 240 with STOCK parts.

4. Wiring is an issue with any swap


SR is cheaper and its faster in a 240sx.

As I said before, RB is not always the best bang for the buck. Yes an RB25 swap is a little more than an SR, but it has more potential. Stock for stock the RB25 would kill the SR.

To say that an SR is faster in a 240 is just rediculous.Yes you can make one faster than a mild RB, but at the cost of reliability. The RB has more displacement, flows better, more valve area, has a MUCH stronger bottom end, more potential, etc. The only advantage the SR has is weight. The 26 is essentially Nissans race engine. It is capable of 400+ just by tweaking it in stock trim. Theres plenty of RB26's running around the US pushing 600+ on stock bottoms with ne issues. There was a GTR that dragged in aussie land that put down 1800 HP on the stock bottom. You may do 1/3 of that on a stock bottom SR.:lmfao:

[HalfBaked]

Why waste your time with an rb25. I'd rather rb20 then 25. Just for the fact that the 20 atleast revs high.

[StupidBikerBoy]

Why waste your time with an rb25. I'd rather rb20 then 25. Just for the fact that the 20 atleast revs high.

Whats the redline on the 20? Never dealt with one. I know the 25 redlines at 7k right? About the same as a 2JZ

[Krazykouki]

.

I believe thats exactly what I said, you'd have to cut the hood. And to be exact, the RB30 block is 44mm taller than the 25 or 26 block.

Yes, right at 2 inchs...I can make it fit without cutting the hood.



We can internet race all night long. Im sure thats possible, and so is the opposite. It depends on quite a bit. Parts for a 6G72 are typically more expensive and theres not really a big following for them. And you have to be joking about a 6G72 destroying an RB26 240. 1000 lbs less weight AND more power potential.

What does your 6g72 put down? I have less than $5k in my RB26 build.

it puts down 320 stock, I turned the boost up to 14psi from 7psi. I put about 5k into it and I have 600~650 awhp. Its not about how heavy or light the cars are. Its how you get that power to the ground and keep it there. Just look at a Ferrari, some of them weigh 3800pounds but they sure as fuck will haul ass. Shit the Bently GT weighs about 4200 if I am not mistaken and its fast as fuck.



See now I'm starting to think you don't know anything about RB's or swapping them in a 240. You're way off.

Think what you want, I have been working on RB's for almost 5 years now. I worked on more RB cars than you have ever seen...worked on more Sr cars than you have ever seen. I DO NOT like RB's in 240sx I dont mind RB20's in 240sx because its not too much for the chassis although it does weigh alot and makes it nose heavy. Now...RB26 in a Skyline is fun because you have AWD..

1. Show me one person that spent $1200 on the oil pan. Mine cost $120 shipped BRAND NEW. And you only need that on the 26 swap.

Since when has a CUSTOM oil pan cost 120? maybe a stock pan...but not a custom pan which is what I am refering too.

2. To do it right and get "correct power" doesn't require any more than any other engine would, especially an SR. This is not the 90's, RB parts are not hard to get anymore.

get it right...

RB20 will require at least 3000 to get the right power reliably.

RB25 will be ok for a while but its a POS engine to begin with.

RB26 is a great motor, dont get me wrong, but in a 240sx it is TOO MUCH without AWD...my AWD would destroy your RB26 car on a track, I have raced RB's they are nose heavy and have oversteer like a mofo...you are either going to burn up your breaks or burn up your tires and your suspension is going to get a hell of a workout as long as you dont speed shift the transmission and blow a syncro.

3. Driveshaft and IC piping is the ONLY things you have to have custom. You can mount an RB in a 240 with STOCK parts.

You are wrong again. You can use a stock driveshaft on RB20. You can use stock intercooler piping on all of them. You NEED mounts or a crossmember. Down pipes for all of them.

4. Wiring is an issue with any swap

Not to me it isnt.



As I said before, RB is not always the best bang for the buck. Yes an RB25 swap is a little more than an SR, but it has more potential. Stock for stock the RB25 would kill the SR.

To say that an SR is faster in a 240 is just rediculous.Yes you can make one faster than a mild RB, but at the cost of reliability. The RB has more displacement, flows better, more valve area, has a MUCH stronger bottom end, more potential, etc. The only advantage the SR has is weight. The 26 is essentially Nissans race engine. It is capable of 400+ just by tweaking it in stock trim. Theres plenty of RB26's running around the US pushing 600+ on stock bottoms with ne issues. There was a GTR that dragged in aussie land that put down 1800 HP on the stock bottom. You may do 1/3 of that on a stock bottom SR.:lmfao:

Non-N1 bottom end RB26 cant handle more than 550 and be reliable. RB20 bottom end cant handle more than 380 and be reliable. Rb25 is just a POS..I have yet to see one run for a solid year of what I put my old RB20 through.

Was it you who raced Ch@dbee with the RB26 powered 240sx and lost??

[Krazykouki]

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/nismo200r/motivator55848.jpg

nuff said.

[sean8564]

Now I saw a cool swap when i visited my friend who works for nissan North America they had a 350Z that was built by Nismo and Zexal in japan it had a NUr spec RB26 and it was AWD the motor looked and fit beautiful in the car I think I have some Picsk of the motor in a Option magazine. but the car was built for the pike peak race

[zoborax]

How about a NEO RB25DET? Comes with 280 hp stock in the R34 GTT skyline. Probably a bit pricey though

[sebastianHoff]

firstly, redline on the r33 rb25 is 6850 rpm, i have seen it with an ohm meter not a tach. the rb20 redline is lower than that (its like 6800 or 6700), more bs started by unstable (if you dont know who unstable is get the fuck out) and carried on by others to sell the cheaper swap to people who didnt know better.
-all the r32 motors and the r33 rb20/25(nissan put rb20s in r33s and r34s, they are used as fleet vehical) all have the same oil pump crank snout problem.
-the r32 rb26 has been known to have problems with crank walk, WHEN THE FACTORY SPEC BOTTOM END WAS PUSHED PAST 9K RPM IN GROUP A RACING. you will be hard pressed to find a well maintained r32 rb26 that has any of these issues, look at "the snails" old car.
-a smart person would use the rb26 oil pan by removing the driveshaft bits and getting the holes pluged. people pay $150+ finned aluminium oil pans for srs, you could make one for your rb less than the cost of a 25 oil pan.
-the r32/r33 rb20/25 motors have the exact same problems when it comes to the ring lands. both have weak pistons/rods and both have the same shit turbo.
-both motors were overrated from the factory, the rb25 actually makes around 230hp and the rb20 makes less than 200hp. the sr did make 202hp so yeah the rb20 actually makes less power than a redtop.
-it is easy to bring both motors up to factory specs by changing plugs and bumping the timing.
-the rb25 trans will hold more than 1000hp, the rb20 trans is a ka/sr trans with a diff bell. there are 600-700hp srs using the factory trans.
-rb30 block is like 1" taller than the 25/26 block. use a 26 top end or a greddy manifold on a 25 and you dont need to adjust the mounts. use the factory 25 plumbing and you need that extra inch. most people go to a solid mount thats 1" shorter than the factory rubber mount. since theres an 1.5" between the oil pan and the xmember in a 240 i think that would do it.

i cant speak for the dsm motor, its "greatness" probably has more to the awd system it was matched with, kinda like a gtr being great because of attessa. you get no arguement from me about the 2j. they are expensive though, a 2j with the 6spd trans will run you north of $5500. the rb25 neo has a gtr bottom end(non of the old problems) and a stronger trans. nad auto is selling neo front cuts for $3500 plus shipping, so which is cheaper? $2k will buy you a stupid big turbo and the injectors to go with it. personally i like my redtop and in the search for more power there is a reason im dumping the rb25 for a domestic v8.

[Krazykouki]

firstly, redline on the r33 rb25 is 6850 rpm, i have seen it with an ohm meter not a tach. the rb20 redline is lower than that (its like 6800 or 6700), more bs started by unstable (if you dont know who unstable is get the fuck out) and carried on by others to sell the cheaper swap to people who didnt know better.

LOL@ STATEMENT...you obviously have never worked on an RB before. You know nothing.

-all the r32 motors and the r33 rb20/25(nissan put rb20s in r33s and r34s, they are used as fleet vehical) all have the same oil pump crank snout problem.

There again you are incorrect. Late model RB's did NOT have the crank snout issue.

-the r32 rb26 has been known to have problems with crank walk, WHEN THE FACTORY SPEC BOTTOM END WAS PUSHED PAST 9K RPM IN GROUP A RACING. you will be hard pressed to find a well maintained r32 rb26 that has any of these issues, look at "the snails" old car.

ANOTHER incorrect statement. It DOES NOT HAVE FUCKING CRANK WALK!...Crank walk is caused from the pressure plate on the clutch, RB25 has more crank issues than any. They have Valve Float.

-a smart person would use the rb26 oil pan by removing the driveshaft bits and getting the holes pluged. people pay $150+ finned aluminium oil pans for srs, you could make one for your rb less than the cost of a 25 oil pan.

That would be one ghetto looking oil pan.

-the r32/r33 rb20/25 motors have the exact same problems when it comes to the ring lands. both have weak pistons/rods and both have the same shit turbo.

How could they have the same exact problems? RB25/26 share same Dome toped piston. RB20 has Flat tops. Very different from the RB25/26.

-both motors were overrated from the factory, the rb25 actually makes around 230hp and the rb20 makes less than 200hp. the sr did make 202hp so yeah the rb20 actually makes less power than a redtop.

FSM says differently. So do dyno results. Check bottom of post.

-it is easy to bring both motors up to factory specs by changing plugs and bumping the timing.

Um...no...over time you loose compression...valve springs loose rate....valve seats dont seal properly....sensors get old...

-the rb25 trans will hold more than 1000hp, the rb20 trans is a ka/sr trans with a diff bell. there are 600-700hp srs using the factory trans.

Incorrect. Ka gearing is different. RB25 gearing and 300zx Gearing are very similar and RB25 trans can RELIABLY handle 800. That has been proven many times.

-rb30 block is like 1" taller than the 25/26 block. use a 26 top end or a greddy manifold on a 25 and you dont need to adjust the mounts. use the factory 25 plumbing and you need that extra inch. most people go to a solid mount thats 1" shorter than the factory rubber mount. since theres an 1.5" between the oil pan and the xmember in a 240 i think that would do it.

JESUS FUCKING CRIST...IF YOU USE THE FUCKING RB26 HEAD..YOU HAVE TO USE THE SPACER OR HAVE HEAD WORK DONE. IT IS NOT AN RB30 WITH AN RB26 HEAD. IT IS ONLY A FULL RB30 WITH A RB25DE HEAD.

THE FUCKING MOTOR WILL CLEAR THE HOOD WITH ALL STOCK MANIFOLD. YOU ALSO FORGOT THAT WHEN USING THE SKYLINE CROSSMEMBER THE MOTOR SITS OVER AN INCH HIGHER THAN JUST USING MOUNTS. EVEN THEN YOU CANNOT LOWER THE MOTOR ANYMORE, THE SWAY BAR WILL HIT THE OIL PAN.

i cant speak for the dsm motor, its "greatness" probably has more to the awd system it was matched with, kinda like a gtr being great because of attessa. you get no arguement from me about the 2j. they are expensive though, a 2j with the 6spd trans will run you north of $5500. the rb25 neo has a gtr bottom end(non of the old problems) and a stronger trans. nad auto is selling neo front cuts for $3500 plus shipping, so which is cheaper? $2k will buy you a stupid big turbo and the injectors to go with it. personally i like my redtop and in the search for more power there is a reason im dumping the rb25 for a domestic v8.

Im sorry dude, but I think you know nothing about RB's. Im not saying I know it all but its obvious you have never worked on them, you are obviously going by what people have said..what magazines have said and what other kids on the internet have said. I can tell you OEM AMERICAN alternators you can buy to fit RB's, coils, throttle bodies, sensor compatability, injectors..etc..etc..basically, I know my fucking shit and what color it is.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m74/nismo200r/RBpic.jpg

[StupidBikerBoy]

Non-N1 bottom end RB26 cant handle more than 550 and be reliable. RB20 bottom end cant handle more than 380 and be reliable. Rb25 is just a POS..I have yet to see one run for a solid year of what I put my old RB20 through.

Was it you who raced Ch@dbee with the RB26 powered 240sx and lost??

No, wasn't me. And considering the the 26 is actually 320 to 350hp stock depending on year and a 240 is lighter, Chad obviously out drove him or he had issues. Im putting down close to you with no problems and I drive the shit out of it....:blah:

I cant speak for RB20's but I have seen more than a few RB26's putting down over 550 "reliably". And a 26 will DAMN SURE handle more power than a 6G72. What good is 600 whp if you cant use it?:lmfao:


it puts down 320 stock, I turned the boost up to 14psi from 7psi. I put about 5k into it and I have 600~650 awhp

Thats funny, I have less than that in my build and put down similar numbers. And I even spent a little extra on a few parts just for extra reliability. And have 4000 rpm of full boost to play with.


Since when has a CUSTOM oil pan cost 120? maybe a stock pan...but not a custom pan which is what I am refering too

Let me drop a little knowledge on you. A RB25 pan will bolt right up to a 26. If you really have been working on RB26's for 5 years, you should have known that. So why would you use a custom pan if its not needed?

As for the others, its not needed.


RB26 is a great motor, dont get me wrong, but in a 240sx it is TOO MUCH without AWD...my AWD would destroy your RB26 car on a track, I have raced RB's they are nose heavy and have oversteer like a mofo...you are either going to burn up your breaks or burn up your tires and your suspension is going to get a hell of a workout as long as you dont speed shift the transmission and blow a syncro.

Sounds like you have only dealt with s13's. Not a big issue in S14's, and nothing a little suspension work can't handle on either..

As far as a 4000lb. car destroying mine on the track, my 2880 lb. car with 13 in. brakes, tein flex suspension, and similar power thinks that is funny.

But IMO a less powerful SR would be a better choice if road course is your thing.


You are wrong again. You can use a stock driveshaft on RB20. You can use stock intercooler piping on all of them. You NEED mounts or a crossmember. Down pipes for all of them.


I have more experience with 26's. On a 26 YOU CANNOT use stock intercooler piping without atleast modifying the hot and cold pipes. You CAN use an R33 cross-member to mount the 26 (would come with the clip), which as I said is a stock nissan part. Downpipes are a given. So, no I am not wrong, and I have a car that can prove it.


Not to me it isnt

:thinking: Dude, you brought up the wiring, not me. Wiring has to be done on any swap, so there was no point in even pointing out.


Think what you want, I have been working on RB's for almost 5 years now. I worked on more RB cars than you have ever seen...worked on more Sr cars than you have ever seen. I DO NOT like RB's in 240sx I dont mind RB20's in 240sx because its not too much for the chassis although it does weigh alot and makes it nose heavy. Now...RB26 in a Skyline is fun because you have AWD..


Im glad you can assume that you know more about RB's than me, but you obviously have only dealt with 20's and 25's. Personally I wouldn't waste my time swapping one of those, only 26's. Don't mind 20's in a 240??? They are just as heavy as a 25! :thinking: As far as not liking RB's in 240's, you are entitled to your opinion, but I find that funny coming from someone with a 4000lb. mitsubishi. There's a reason why there's not many around modified. Enjoy it while it lasts.

You are giving out a lot of misinformation. Im not going to continue to argue with someone that doesn't even know what he's talking about.

I challenge you to prove anything I have said as false.

To the OP, check out freshalloy.com or skylinesdownunder.com, they have a lot more info.

[StupidBikerBoy]

Think what you want, I have been working on RB's for almost 5 years now. I worked on more RB cars than you have ever seen...worked on more Sr cars than you have ever seen.

I just looked at your profile. So you're trying to tell me you've been working on RB's since you were 16?? :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:

Sorry dude, Ima have to call BS on this. You've had to much misinformation for you to be telling the truth.

Let me guess, you had an RB20 or helped a friend with a 25, and now you think you know it all about RB's?:lmfao:

[TheSnail]

lol

[Maki]

This has been very interesting. Please continue

[Krazykouki]

No, wasn't me. And considering the the 26 is actually 320 to 350hp stock depending on year and a 240 is lighter, Chad obviously out drove him or he had issues. Im putting down close to you with no problems and I drive the shit out of it....:blah:

I cant speak for RB20's but I have seen more than a few RB26's putting down over 550 "reliably". And a 26 will DAMN SURE handle more power than a 6G72. What good is 600 whp if you cant use it?:lmfao:

6g72 can handle 700hp with no issues but 600 reliably. Go speed shift your RB25 Tranny..lol..Getrag OWNS you bitch.

Thats funny, I have less than that in my build and put down similar numbers. And I even spent a little extra on a few parts just for extra reliability. And have 4000 rpm of full boost to play with.

My 3000GT is stock. 320 is stock. I have 0$ in my build...LOL..fucking dumbass.

Let me drop a little knowledge on you. A RB25 pan will bolt right up to a 26. If you really have been working on RB26's for 5 years, you should have known that. So why would you use a custom pan if its not needed?

Hmm..I already know that you twat. I am talking about a custom Aluminum/Stainless Oil pan. Go ahead..build your "drag" rb26...when you starve the engine of oil I will laugh. You need a custom oil pan with baffles for your front sump RB26. Oh and the stock RB25 oil pan has to be notched fucking dumbass or else the oil return will not clear, that would make it not bolt on. Also just so you know, go ahead and leave out the head return lines for the oil...so when your engine oil pools in the head I will laugh at you as well.

As for the others, its not needed.



Sounds like you have only dealt with s13's. Not a big issue in S14's, and nothing a little suspension work can't handle on either..

Yes I have primarily delt with S13 RB's but s14 RB26's. I know my shit man and would spin circles around you.

As far as a 4000lb. car destroying mine on the track, my 2880 lb. car with 13 in. brakes, tein flex suspension, and similar power thinks that is funny.

WOW...you have some money in your car...WOW...LOL..AWD will OWN you on a close circuit track. I hate to inform you but you will be having issues with oversteer while I have torque steer that is keeping me in the corner, thus...helping me get out of the corner ALOT faster. You have 300zx brakes and they are not 13"s. Your caliper will explode if they are the aluminum ones and you over brake the car. Please go weigh your car, 2880 is more like 3200. You probably dont even know how to properly adjust your suspension to make it work in your benefit.

But IMO a less powerful SR would be a better choice if road course is your thing.

I hate SR's, I like RB20/30. thats it. I got my 3000GT because after I put in 5g's I have 600+ at the wheels. No no labor included, I do my own work.



I have more experience with 26's. On a 26 YOU CANNOT use stock intercooler piping without atleast modifying the hot and cold pipes. You CAN use an R33 cross-member to mount the 26 (would come with the clip), which as I said is a stock nissan part. Downpipes are a given. So, no I am not wrong, and I have a car that can prove it.

want a cookie, you have the car..WOW..I already know what you can and cant use. with a mount kit you CAN use stock intercooler piping so STFU.



:thinking: Dude, you brought up the wiring, not me. Wiring has to be done on any swap, so there was no point in even pointing out.



Im glad you can assume that you know more about RB's than me, but you obviously have only dealt with 20's and 25's. Personally I wouldn't waste my time swapping one of those, only 26's. Don't mind 20's in a 240??? They are just as heavy as a 25! :thinking: As far as not liking RB's in 240's, you are entitled to your opinion, but I find that funny coming from someone with a 4000lb. mitsubishi. There's a reason why there's not many around modified. Enjoy it while it lasts.

You are giving out a lot of misinformation. Im not going to continue to argue with someone that doesn't even know what he's talking about.

I challenge you to prove anything I have said as false.

To the OP, check out freshalloy.com or skylinesdownunder.com, they have a lot more info.

I have been on Skylinesdownunder for quite some time, so LOL@YOU. I have every FSM and shit...I have a shed full of RB parts...Nissans SUCK anyway..I got away from Nissans because it cost way too much to make them decently fast without burning off tires. Power does not matter if you cant keep it on the ground.



I just looked at your profile. So you're trying to tell me you've been working on RB's since you were 16?? :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:

See you dont know me. Call BS if you like.

Sorry dude, Ima have to call BS on this. You've had to much misinformation for you to be telling the truth.

Let me guess, you had an RB20 or helped a friend with a 25, and now you

LMAO
think you know it all about RB's?:lmfao:

-:ninja:

[Lownismo17]

not sure if someone said it yet but the only problem i have seen from them is the oil pumps failing after alot of hp.. so everyone buys the N1 models or nismo

[Krazykouki]

not sure if someone said it yet but the only problem i have seen from them is the oil pumps failing after alot of hp.. so everyone buys the N1 models or nismo

Even with the N1 oil pump you need to buy the oil feed reducer that goes on the deck or you it will pump your engine dry.

EDIT:

Tomei sells the oil feed reducer

[BigBoosting]

Even with the N1 oil pump you need to buy the oil feed reducer that goes on the deck or you it will pump your engine dry.

EDIT:

Tomei sells the oil feed reducer

thats only for long exposure to high rpms , which is only relevant if your tracking the car on a road course. Its not a nessecity for a mostly street car

[StupidBikerBoy]

it puts down 320 stock, I turned the boost up to 14psi from 7psi. I put about 5k into it and I have 600~650 awhp.


My 3000GT is stock. 320 is stock. I have 0$ in my build...LOL..fucking dumbass.

Seems like somebody can't get thier lies straight. According to the earlier post, you had 600 ~ 650 awhp.:thinking: This is what I was refering to when I said similar power, because thats closer to what I'm pushing with no issues yet idiot. I have less than 5k in mine.


6g72 can handle 700hp with no issues but 600 reliably. Go speed shift your RB25 Tranny..lol..Getrag OWNS you bitch.

On a stock motor, really? :lmfao: Prove it. Yeah, getrags are great, but you'd need one in a 4200 lb. car.:lmfao:


Hmm..I already know that you twat. I am talking about a custom Aluminum/Stainless Oil pan. Go ahead..build your "drag" rb26...when you starve the engine of oil I will laugh. You need a custom oil pan with baffles for your front sump RB26. Oh and the stock RB25 oil pan has to be notched fucking dumbass or else the oil return will not clear, that would make it not bolt on. Also just so you know, go ahead and leave out the head return lines for the oil...so when your engine oil pools in the head I will laugh at you as well.

Well, looks like somebody finally ran and did a little research before making up shit. And good way to back track on what you said. And yes, my RB26 has an oil return line ran from the back of the head. But thats really only needed if you plan on going to 8K or above constantly. I'd like the see your 6G72 do that.:lmfao:


WOW...you have some money in your car...WOW...LOL..AWD will OWN you on a close circuit track. I hate to inform you but you will be having issues with oversteer while I have torque steer that is keeping me in the corner, thus...helping me get out of the corner ALOT faster. You have 300zx brakes and they are not 13"s. Your caliper will explode if they are the aluminum ones and you over brake the car. Please go weigh your car, 2880 is more like 3200. You probably dont even know how to properly adjust your suspension to make it work in your benefit.


WOW, you're really good at internet racing, with your STOCK 3000GT:lmfao:

Where did I say I had 300zx brakes? Are you speaking out of your ass again? Let me help you. I DON'T HAVE 300ZX BRAKES. They are 13" brakes as I stated kid.

And yes, I have weighed my car, and thats where I got my 2880 lb. figure from. :screwy:


I have been on Skylinesdownunder for quite some time, so LOL@YOU. I have every FSM and shit...I have a shed full of RB parts..


WOW!! You've got FSM's!! Shit then you must know your shit!.:lmfao:
Yeah, Im sure you have a shed full of RB parts. :rolleyes: You work at TopHat and you're 21, so you MUST know everything! LOL @ you assuming shit, talking out of you're ass and then running to somebody at TopHat that has been working on RB's for 5 years for info. Good job backtracking:goodjob: And good job representing TopHat for the WHOLE WEEK that you've actually worked there.


Nissans SUCK anyway..I got away from Nissans because it cost way too much to make them decently fast without burning off tires.

So you went to a 3000GT!! BWAHAHAHAHAHA. You went backwards. And as far as you "putting down 320 stock" as you claimed earlier, try around 220 ~ 240 awhp because thats what 3000gt's usually put down stock.


I know my shit man and would spin circles around you

Obviously.:rolleyes: Especially considering I'm not the only person to correct you in this thread. Kid, I was doing this when you were learning to ride a bike for the first time. :lmfao: I suggest you stop assuming things and talking out your ass.

I'm done with you kid. Fuss all you want, but you aint fooling anybody. If it makes you feel any better, good job on the last minute researching and trying to save face.