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View Full Version : NOOO!!! TIME FOR A B16 REBUILD!



TheChosenOne
12-28-2006, 01:22 AM
To make a long story short, I missed third gear with no rev limiter on my ecu and I fried my piston rings(or at least thats what appears to be the case).

For now, I'm accepting any ideas on what I should do. Personally, I want to take the quickest way out so that I can get it running A.S.A.P. Then again, I want to keep my setup, but just have solid internals in it this time around.

So, with that being said, does any one out there know what I should do??? My friend said I should get a compression check done before I just to any conclusion, and that's a given. But after that, what's next. Do I just replace the rings? Do I replace the pistons and the rings?? Do I replace the pistons, the rings, and the rods??? I'm working with a tight budget, but not tight enough where I wanna just ghetto rig it back together.

I hate to do this, but I'm willing to put out all my information out there, PRAYING and HOPING that IA will again come to my aid.

MY SETUP: (Brian, correcct ,me if I'm wrong)
*(keep in mind some guy in florida built all of this)

*SiR b16 (supposedly a b16b head)
*Short ram intake
*Crane cams (stage unknown)
*2 chipped ecu's neither have a rev limiter(one has a launch controller at 3.5k)
*DC Header
*Custom straight throught exhaust (no cat or resonator)
*(supposed piston upgrade)

YES.... I know this is a noob move to just blurb out my shit like this, but I don't care, I just need to know what should I DO!!!!! What kind of pistons would be good to go with it??? Also, If anyone knows of a good shop that will fix me up, holla!

+++++out of desperation, please help++++++

Annihilation
12-28-2006, 03:24 AM
umm Piston rings? bad conclusion...... I say you fucked up your valves.....seriously

lmk i can come check it out ur down in Lville

ŁG2♣
12-28-2006, 03:24 AM
d sereis ftw

azianhustla
12-28-2006, 03:43 AM
I gotta back up JDM B18B Longblock for sale, While ur REBUILDIng.. asking 650..!

2.0civic
12-28-2006, 03:26 PM
I gotta back up JDM B18B Longblock for sale, While ur REBUILDIng.. asking 650..!

and your point is??

Allshow97
12-29-2006, 12:38 PM
I would more than likely say valves also... It's really hard to say sight unseen. Don't bet on it being something easy though I tried to do that with my H22 and have ended up spending $600 more than originally planned. Always plan on the worse going in to a rebuild.

99SI
12-29-2006, 01:40 PM
Is it locked up? Rattling? Smokiing? What is it doing since you missed the shift? Need more info.

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 03:33 PM
you dont fry rings from over revving.

you prob bent valves, or dropped a valve

how TIGHT is your budget, that helps to know to what your working with

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 04:13 PM
Is it locked up? Rattling? Smokiing? What is it doing since you missed the shift? Need more info.
well, when I turn my key, the engine turns, and everything sounds like its about to start, but it never does. It doesn't rattle or smoke, I just wont start.

Now that I think about it, I don't think there is any exhaust coming out of the pipe then I turn the key, but I'll confirm it 2morrow.:thinking:


lmk i can come check it out ur down in Lville
ya, I live right by the lawrenceville YMCA. Hit me up whenever you have some free time


how TIGHT is your budget, that helps to know to what your working with
Lets just say, Im a high schooler who makes $400 every two weeks sooooo... my budget is tighter than an asshole in prison. But I want it done right, so i'll save up as long as possible before I just get a half-ass job done on it.

But honestly, if it is the valves, how much would it cost to get her running again??? I know you haven't seen it yet, but I need a round about number to front to my parents;). Plus, this WAS my daily driver, so i need this car to run!

Thanks for all you help & keep it comin'!:goodjob:

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 04:16 PM
at the minimum you would need to pull the head an replace the valves if they are bent. thats assuming it didnt destroy any pistons.

rough estimate $750-850 for valves, labor, headgasket

99SI
12-29-2006, 04:35 PM
When you overrevved did it just quit? Or did you make it back home and it wouldn't crank up anymore?

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 04:35 PM
Does that exclude you taking the engine out and putting it back in???

I went to shift from 2nd to 3rd at about 8k, but I missed third and then I just put it in 5th. When I pushed the gas, the engine didn't accelerate, it just bogged and gradually lost rpm's. So then I put it in neutral and i pulled over into a neighborhood, and by that time, it had just cut off. I tried to start it, but it just kept turning over and never cutting on.

99SI
12-29-2006, 04:52 PM
Got to be a valve issue. Possibly worse. You are in bad shape I would say. Good luck on it. Hope it turns out better than what it sounds like.

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 04:55 PM
Possibly worse!?!?!?!?:cry: :eek: Worse like how??? Well, if that's the case, where do I start. i need to get this problem fixed asap. Is there a place that I could take it to get fixed for a good price. I mean, I can do the easy stuff, but some stuff, someones gunna have to help me with. FUCK!!!!

rupertaker
12-29-2006, 04:58 PM
Talk to Mike at Mainstream, he just built my 1000WHP EK hatch.

678-567-9384

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 05:03 PM
Everyone on here likes Mainstream, so it clearly seems to be the best, but im affraid to even call cause I don't wanna hear a extremely rediculous price. But it wouldn't hurt to try.

What about Autofab or Balance Performace???

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 05:04 PM
Most likely it dropped a valve or broke a valve off in the cylinder taking the bottom end with it.

what you need to do, is PULL THE SPARK PLUGS OUT. if one of your spark plugs is bit in half, or missing half itself, the answer is find another motor.

if its intact, then you have bent valves an it could be salvaeable. My price i quoted is for bent valves, which means you dont need to pull them otor out.

I would need to see the car to give you a full diagnosis.

you can trailor it to me an i can look at it tomrrow

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 05:08 PM
Everyone on here likes Mainstream, so it clearly seems to be the best, but im affraid to even call cause I don't wanna hear a extremely rediculous price. But it wouldn't hurt to try.

What about Autofab or Balance Performace???

there is no such thing as a "scared" phone call. even if you dont choose us, i will give you all the advice and help you need. thats what our shop is built on.

I think youll find i have the best prices , quality of work, and we are pretty much THE HONDA/Acura shop in Georgia. its what i specialize in.

We have over 20 years of experince combined between myself ,charles, and james.

I charge fair prices for the work i must perform, and i challenge you to find better pricing :)

sometimes with matters like INTERNAL ENGINE work, CHEAPEST is not neccesarily the best. youll def get your moneys worth from us.

But feel free to give me a call tomrrow, and ill talk to you about it more. my name is mike

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 05:10 PM
also, was this on one of the "chipped no rev limiter " ecus you have? if so, stock motors cant really handle an overrev like that, it prob went past 9500rpms if not more

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 05:10 PM
what time do ya'll close, cause i'm gunna have to find a way to get it there first. Sorry about all the questions man, i'm just tryin to weigh all my options. Right now I just got all my fingers crossed, hoping that I don't have to get a new motor.:(

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 05:12 PM
ill be here tomrrow from 9am-6pm

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 05:13 PM
ya, it was on the SiR chipped ecu. vtec kicks in at 4.1k.

Thanks Mike. I'll prolly go with you, mang!:goodjob:

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 05:14 PM
im out of here for tonight, but give me a call tomrrow morning, if i dont answer leave a message an i will call you right back.

silversol
12-29-2006, 07:06 PM
have you checked to see if the car is getting fire to the plugs? I had the same thing happen to me but it was just my coil that went out!

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 07:24 PM
have you checked to see if the car is getting fire to the plugs? I had the same thing happen to me but it was just my coil that went out! How do I check that???
Man, you guys are givin me good advice, it just sucks cause I'm not by my car right now. I think ima end up taking pictures through the whole rebuild so you can give more insight.

Vteckidd
12-29-2006, 09:38 PM
it would seem weird that his coil went out from over revving, but i suppose it is POSSIBLE, but highly unlikely.

BTEC
12-29-2006, 09:54 PM
yeah so i would say u bent valves or dropped a valve like mike said but i dnt know much about hondas so yeah. but id be like hell yeah, lets make some real power out of dis sumbitch.

i heard something about a shop called mainstream or mspi. they supposedly do some pimp ass work but i dnt let nobody touch my rides so ill never know. :dunno:

TheChosenOne
12-29-2006, 10:46 PM
shit... now that i think about it, i'll let him do whatever he wants, as long as its under $1000... and it runs.:yes:

green91
12-29-2006, 10:56 PM
you had vtec set to early and it bent your valves.

Benefit
12-30-2006, 12:46 AM
damn vtec

rupertaker
12-30-2006, 07:53 AM
If may be cheaper to do a Type R ECU instead of fixing the valves. If thats the route you want to go, I have one for sale.

PM me

99SI
12-30-2006, 09:24 AM
^^^lol. BTW, to THECHOSENONE, VTEC should never be at 4100 rpm.

TheChosenOne
12-30-2006, 01:33 PM
^^^lol. BTW, to THECHOSENONE, VTEC should never be at 4100 rpm.
I didn't set it there, I bought the car like that. Where should it be, 4.5???


If may be cheaper to do a Type R ECU instead of fixing the valves. If thats the route you want to go, I have one for sale.


So your saying that I can run by bent valves on a type r ecu?:screwy: Or are you saying go with stock valves and a type r ecu instead of aftermarket valves, springs and retainers???

Vteckidd
12-30-2006, 01:35 PM
Rupertaker is pulling your leg, the ECU has nothing to do with the actual motor

typerek
12-30-2006, 01:49 PM
hey use the other ecu i gave you the one where vtec kicks in at 5400 i'll try to stop by this week and take a look at it. instead of replacing the valves it might be cheaper to buy a new head. but i'll pull the spark plugs and check to see if yoiu're getting spark.

99SI
01-02-2007, 02:02 PM
I didn't set it there, I bought the car like that. Where should it be, 4.5???



So your saying that I can run by bent valves on a type r ecu?:screwy: Or are you saying go with stock valves and a type r ecu instead of aftermarket valves, springs and retainers???
my engagement point is at 6k and I am probably going to set it at 62-6300 rpm.

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 05:05 PM
Well, bad news just became worse news... My motor is blown!!!

I took it up to AutoFab (sorry Mike, but mainstream is just too far :rolleyes: ) and after they took off the head, it was all tears and sobs. Two of the valces had broke off and destroyed two pistons and the entire head was shot up and they were hole callore!

Now, I need to know what would be my best be as far as price is concerned. Since the car is already wired for the b16, would it be best to just get another b16, or should I get an ls for half the price and re-wire?

Also, if I go ls/vtec, could I keep the wiring the same?

Vteckidd
01-04-2007, 05:19 PM
chances are your head is toast as well if it broke valves, its fucked.

so, buy an LS motor, there is NO WIRING differences you just dont hook up the vtec wires.

if you want it back on the road ,get an LS or B20 motor

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 05:35 PM
NICE!:goodjob:

Dude, your a fucking honda guru!

Which one is better, b20 or ls. I heard that the b20 has more torque, but the only time I've every seen one run in real life, was on a b20/vtec. Isn't the only modification that has to be done is like a hole that has to be drilled for the oil line if I want to do a vtec conversion?

Vteckidd
01-04-2007, 05:37 PM
B20 is better IMO, cheaper, lower mileage and more TQ.

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 05:40 PM
Cheaper??? How much is a b20? The guy at the shop said that an ls was 500. and by the time he was finished, the total ls swap would cost me about $1600.

Last time I blew up my ls, it cost me about $900 for a new motor and to replace it. But I guess since he already took off the head of b16, thats where the extra labor cost comes in.:rolleyes:

Vteckidd
01-04-2007, 06:23 PM
Cheaper??? How much is a b20? The guy at the shop said that an ls was 500. and by the time he was finished, the total ls swap would cost me about $1600.

Last time I blew up my ls, it cost me about $900 for a new motor and to replace it. But I guess since he already took off the head of b16, thats where the extra labor cost comes in.:rolleyes:

i get all my motors from HMOTORSONLINE.COM or NADAUTO.com

thats the only places i trust for a motor.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/b18b.jpg
B18B 94-95 (LS) Long Block

Price: $ 749.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In stock

- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body
- Alternator
- Distributor

Long blocks average 25,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.



B20 Longblock
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/B20LongBlock.jpg

B20B 96-98 (CRV) Long Block

Price: $ 649.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In stock and ready to go. JDM Only

- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body*
- Distributor

Long blocks average 35,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.


as you can see the b20 is $100 cheaper. i dont know where Autofab gets their motors from, but $500 is the CHEAPEST i have ever heard of a good quality LS motor. unless they are buying it from a private party which may mean your getting a 100-150k mile motor.

but i dont know what they charge or where they get their motors from, you may want to ask

nofive-0
01-04-2007, 06:54 PM
Do the B20 and save for a vtec head.

And then DONT blow it up.

SLow_POke
01-04-2007, 06:55 PM
i get all my motors from HMOTORSONLINE.COM or NADAUTO.com

thats the only places i trust for a motor.

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/b18b.jpg
B18B 94-95 (LS) Long Block

Price: $ 749.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In stock

- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body
- Alternator
- Distributor

Long blocks average 25,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.



B20 Longblock
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/images/B20LongBlock.jpg

B20B 96-98 (CRV) Long Block

Price: $ 649.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In stock and ready to go. JDM Only

- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body*
- Distributor

Long blocks average 35,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.


as you can see the b20 is $100 cheaper. i dont know where Autofab gets their motors from, but $500 is the CHEAPEST i have ever heard of a good quality LS motor. unless they are buying it from a private party which may mean your getting a 100-150k mile motor.

but i dont know what they charge or where they get their motors from, you may want to ask

also on that note I'm not 100% sure but the last time I personlly tlk to the guy at Hmotors i beleived he supplied the engine to them(link) . he didnt give me a straight answer but might help

http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.asp?P_ID=140

2 ls for 1 k


-Ernie

nofive-0
01-04-2007, 06:58 PM
Those are b20b's If you have the option get the b20z. Im pretty sure it is the higher compression version. But I still thought that the b20b's made more than 126 hp.

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 07:06 PM
Do the B20 and save for a vtec head.

And then DONT blow it up.
lol:lmfao:

I know. I'll try not to.

I guess I'll ask Thomas (autofab guy) to order the b20 and just let them finish the job.

SLow_POke
01-04-2007, 07:09 PM
lol:lmfao:

I know. I'll try not to.

I guess I'll ask Thomas (autofab guy) to order the b20 and just let them finish the job.

you should consider what was mentioned earlier as about where they get there ,motors. NOT SAYING ITS BAD

since you al ready have a b series in it its only plug and play. and use your b16 series trans. all you'll need is a manifold and dizzy

MIami-boy
01-04-2007, 07:27 PM
i say go b20 more tq who need hp lol. then do a b20vtec u will love it. btw the b20 has good tq for your DA chasis GL

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 07:45 PM
So let me get this straight. The b2o should fit right in, and the exact wire harness will work, + some vtec wiring subtraction?

Will my SiR ecu work? Also, will my dc header fit?

nofive-0
01-04-2007, 08:15 PM
The ecu wont work. You will throw cels for vtec oil pressure and stuff. It will run but just not as good as say an ls ecu or something. I don't think the header will fit either because of the deck height but I am not sure.

TheChosenOne
01-04-2007, 08:21 PM
so basically once I would normally hit vtec, its gunna start running funny?

nofive-0
01-04-2007, 08:26 PM
itll probably run fat. You can get an ls ecu for really cheap.

Vteckidd
01-04-2007, 11:30 PM
sell your PR3 ECU for $100
Sell your PR3 Dizzy for $100
Sell your VTEC valve cover for $20
sell your vtec cams for $50

Buy an LS OBD0 or OBD1 distributor which is what you need anyway. buy a PR4 ECU. You will use your ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS. cant use RHD harnesses.

its all plug and play. ive done 6 b20 swaps in DAs, and i drive a DA with a b20 swap, its the easiest thing in the world

b20s have more TQ, lower mileage USUALLY compared to LS motors

ranj
01-04-2007, 11:57 PM
get an ecu with a rev limiter this time too.
lol

TheChosenOne
01-06-2007, 10:19 AM
get an ecu with a rev limiter this time too.
lol
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:
sure thing...

TheChosenOne
01-06-2007, 10:21 AM
And, oh ya... My wiring harness has been sliced and cut to fit the vtec. I don't know if it will just plug and play with the ls now. So, there is gunna have to be some slight wiring modifications.

SLow_POke
01-06-2007, 10:23 AM
And, oh ya... My wiring harness has been sliced and cut to fit the vtec. I don't know if it will just plug and play with the ls now. So, there is gunna have to be some slight wiring modifications.


:no: none needed. dont modify it you just wont plug the vtec sol and pressure switch on it

SLow_POke
01-06-2007, 10:26 AM
sell your PR3 ECU for $100
Sell your PR3 Dizzy for $100
Sell your VTEC valve cover for $20
sell your vtec cams for $50

Buy an LS OBD0 or OBD1 distributor which is what you need anyway. buy a PR4 ECU. You will use your ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS. cant use RHD harnesses.

its all plug and play. ive done 6 b20 swaps in DAs, and i drive a DA with a b20 swap, its the easiest thing in the world

b20s have more TQ, lower mileage USUALLY compared to LS motors



:yes: :yes: :yes: ..

TheChosenOne
01-11-2007, 07:11 PM
Hey, this thread isn't dead yet...

I was wondering how much it would cost to go ls/vtec if I already have a b18a block???

Vteckidd
01-11-2007, 07:27 PM
ask autofab :)

you should be asking the shop thats doing the work these questions

my .02

TheChosenOne
01-12-2007, 05:29 AM
lol... do I sense a little bit of jelousy...:yes: ...JK!

I got another car, so they don't have this one. :goodjob:


But, I mean, If I buy a head, and the coonversion kit, how much should it cost me to get it running. I heard somewhere that if you co ls/vtec with stock internals, your bound to blow your engine.

Vteckidd
01-12-2007, 08:06 AM
haha jealous?

no what i mean is, its hard if your a shop, and your vustomer is changing his mind every 5 min, or comes on the internet asking questions. if your doing the work yourself, ask away, if its at a shop, i would ask them, just so it doesnt confuse anyone.

oh and your going to haveto do a litle research yourself, there are PLENTY of threads STICKIED on LSVTEC and what not to do.

try Honda-Tech.com

99SI
01-12-2007, 09:24 AM
I believe there is an EXCELLENT write up stickied on this forum about the LS/VTEC conversion. EXTREMELY COMPLETE and well written. READ IT, TWICE , then if you still have questions, shout. Until then, get busy. :D

99SI
01-12-2007, 09:39 AM
http://forums.importatlanta.com/showthread.php?t=66414

latoilette
01-12-2007, 12:57 PM
Dude, I was reading this whole post... THECHOSENONE sucks... Mainstream guys were trying to help your ass out a lot...

at least from this post, i know that mainstream guys know what they are talking about. if my motor goes, i am gonna go there.

TheChosenOne
01-13-2007, 02:38 PM
Dude, I was reading this whole post... THECHOSENONE sucks... Mainstream guys were trying to help your ass out a lot...

at least from this post, i know that mainstream guys know what they are talking about. if my motor goes, i am gonna go there.

ummm... first off, fuck you latoilette, because I definintly thanked them for all there help, and the only reason I didn't go to mainstream is because its really far from where I live!

And, Mr.KiDD... I wasn't saing you were jealous. I was mocking myself because I realized that I was asking you a shit load of questions and I STILL didn't bring my car to you. The reason I was askign you is because the AutoFab guys went out of town for some Drift thing. Sorry for the misunderstanding, and next time I wont ask as many questions.

Vteckidd
01-13-2007, 04:40 PM
no there is not problem with asking questions, im here to help no matter what.

but what i meant was, sometimes its best to ask the shop for some info, because its hard to deal with so many people on the internet and with a shop doing work on your car.

thats all :)

TheChosenOne
01-14-2007, 09:01 AM
Thanks for your help mike, Seriously. I'll definitly be stopping by for a visit in the near future.

latoilette
01-22-2007, 11:43 AM
Thanks for your help mike, Seriously. I'll definitly be stopping by for a visit in the near future.

hey man, no need for profanity. after reading this whole thread, i thought it was unfair for you to ask all these questions and mock Mr. Vteckid.

just disrespecting..and that's not cool at all man.