H23 all motor

[dakilla4ever]

Any suggestions on how to build my H23 all motor i thought heavily about boosting it but now im steering myself the opposite direction. I want to go all motor and build my car for Auto Cross/ Weekend-Drag racing/ Daily driving. And i refuse to switch to H22. Any ideas would help. Thanks- H23 LUDE

[IndianStig]

i really like this thread.

how about slappin an h22 head on there for VTEC? or do you have to go with an F23 head?


i'd rather go with an H22 head, anyone know who will do it or if it will work?

how about the F23 head?

[o_bomb]

:bump: :bump: An H22 will, without a doubt, fit on there and will have yourself a sick, stupid setup!!!!:bump: :bump: U WILL BE RYDAIN!!

[o_bomb]

Yo kilaa. Go boost. If u dont want a h22 head

[o_bomb]

Dont 4get if u use the h23 block u need to tap the block or buy a oil return kit 4 the VTEC.

[dakilla4ever]

But is the 23vtec setup reliable? What kind of numbers will it be pushing? What all would i need to make it daily drivable? And i don't want to go boost because there isn't a supercharger out for it and no one will answer my questions about turbos so i just decided to go N/A.

[Five*Star*]

I was thinking of building a pretty killer H23/vtec awhile back. You can definately make some serious street power out of that set-up. It has a longer stroke than the H22, yet will still be capable of revving to 8500 (built)...maybe more if built properly. I was planning to build one to rev to about 9K max maybe, and hopefully put down 245+whp and 175+ torque. Best bet is to get the H22 head, skunk cams, skunk intake manifold, 68mm throttlebody, 350cc+ injectors, 11.5:1 or 12:1 pistons, and some H-beam rods. Get everything machined and balanced, then get the motor tuned. If you are not willing to spend the money to atleast build the bottom end of the motor, then just go with an H22 and be happy with that.

You are probably looking at any easy $6,000+ build, but it will stomp B-series all day long.

It would also be wise to run an oil cooler on this bigger motor to help keep it a little more reliable. Cooler oil is always a good thing.


I have most of the parts to an H2B swap if you are looking for a setup to drop into a civic or integra. It is an H23 engine, and B16a tranny, plus other parts toward the swap.

LMK

[Ludester]

^^^I agree with what five star just said except the tranny part lol.^^^^^

as for your h23 Crower make some cams for it so you could start there. I can't see you breaking 190whp with the h23 n/a though.... just not enough support out there for that engine..

[dakilla4ever]

what about my crank and rods with h22 pistons and oil squirts. Would raising the compression also help it or would that be a waste of time? Cause i got an idea of putting those in the block and still swapping over the h22 head while putting Intake manifold, throttle body, and upgrading fuel system. But i heard that the h23 block can't handle over 6500 rpms, so right know im just lost. It doesn't seem like there are many options for prelude motors.

[Ludester]

there are plenty of support for the h series engines... there just expensive and you have to know where to look for them.

Honestly... If I had a h23 USDM or JDM I would boost it. Compression is low enough to support a nice setup with decent/good power and not have to sleeve the block. If you want H23/h22 vtec hybrid it will be very costly. Yes you'll make more power than a h22 (with a few acceptions) but I know of one person (a girl) here in GA that have pulled it off but I dont think the motor is running in tip top shape. So as far as reliability goes based on her I would say no its not reliable. And she has invested a lot of money in that motor.

If you really want to go n/a and build a h series I suggest getting a h22. Don't worry about a intake manifold becuase the h22 intake manny flows great already. Just port out the intake manny and the TB a little bit and your good.

So my suggests are:
get h22
get type s cams and pistons
get a good header (RMF, SMSP, kteller etc..)
GET A GOOD TUNE


that is the cheapest setup I can think of off the top of my head...

[dakilla4ever]

DC headers won't be a good choice? And what would the pistons raise the compression up to? What numbers would that put out? I really want to get ready for autocross.

[dakilla4ever]

So where would i be able to find a reliable h22 for a decent price?

[Five*Star*]

^^^I agree with what five star just said except the tranny part lol.^^^^^


Well, if you have a civic or Integra to drop the H-series into, the only way to go these days is with the H2B swap kit. It utilizes the stock tranny mounts for those chassis, and mates the H22 to the B-series tranny. This way the tranny is positioned exactly where it was meant to be, and no more broke/binding axles. Plus, the B-series gearing is closer and can make the car much better when running in vtec....especially with bigger cams that have a more peak-like vtec profile. ;)

[Ludester]

DC headers won't be a good choice? And what would the pistons raise the compression up to? What numbers would that put out? I really want to get ready for autocross.

with a h22 dc is the worse choice you can make. The runners and collectors are the same if not smaller than the stock ones are. its the worse way to invest 2-400 bux or however much the dc header cost.

The type s pistons are 11:1 compression pistons. If you plan on building the head then you can mill the head a little bit and you gain rough ~.2 to ~.5 more in Compression. That should put you at about ~11.5ish compression. Which is not bad for a n/a build on pump gas btw.

numbers? from the dynoes I've seen depending on how healthy the motor is you'll in the 200whp ball park. Might be a little higher.

[Ludester]

Well, if you have a civic or Integra to drop the H-series into, the only way to go these days is with the H2B swap kit. It utilizes the stock tranny mounts for those chassis, and mates the H22 to the B-series tranny. This way the tranny is positioned exactly where it was meant to be, and no more broke/binding axles. Plus, the B-series gearing is closer and can make the car much better when running in vtec....especially with bigger cams that have a more peak-like vtec profile. ;)


oh I agree with if you have an integra or civic. yes by all means h2b swap is the more practical bet.

now the better gearing part..... can you post up the gearing of a b series and I'll look at my chart I have right here will all 8 or 9 trannies for the h series and compare gearing that way. ;) I've never seen a gearing chart for the b series thats all.

On a side note: If they are worried about vtec I can honestly say from owning a fifth gen prelude, I will not fall out of vtec from launch to fifth gear...

[Ludester]

So where would i be able to find a reliable h22 for a decent price?

call bestjapanese off of cobb parkway.

Also

here is one just from doing a quick search on hmotorsonline.com

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30015

[dakilla4ever]

Don't worry about it i'm just going to go ahead and turbo it and call it a day. Any ideas?

[dakilla4ever]

it'll give me better horespower numbers to turbo it anyways. Plus i found a kit on ebay for 500 bucks. so with everything else i hope to get at least 250 to the wheels. 300 total and im good.

[o_bomb]

Turbo is the way to go with that motor, and remember PLEASE tune the car!!

[93H22ACX]

Dont 4get if u use the h23 block u need to tap the block or buy a oil return kit 4 the VTEC.

you do not need to get any oil lines or tap the block for vtec. everything is already there. all you need to do is remove the oil orfice out of the h23 block.
i had a H23VTEC hybrid about 2 years ago....


to the oringal thread starter....

if i had a h23 i would put a h22 head on it...other wise get a full h22. one of my friends did a all motor h23 just working on the head and made 180whp. for the amount of money he spent, he could have gotten a h22 head and made as much or more power just by getting the head. would have been cheaper..

if you dont really know what you are doing..i wouldnt suggest turboing a h-series with stock bottom end. alot of guys blow the bottom end up because of weak ringlands on the stock H motors.

[o_bomb]

H motors have really weak ringlands, but I thought that if motor never came with vtec and u make it have vtec tapping the block is a must. B, D, or H. Or a oil return kit.

[dakilla4ever]

how long did the motor last after you put the vtec head on it?

[dakilla4ever]

and i heard that i needed to change over the oil squirters from the 22vtecover to the 23 also.

[93H22ACX]

h22 and h23 block are the same block casting pretty much. all u need to do is remove the oil orfice. it lasted a long time and i sold the car with it.

reliability is always slim when u are building it for a race application.

if you want to learn more about it go to honda-tech.com and go into their prelude forum. in the FAQ there is alot of information on it.

[o_bomb]

:goodjob: Cool. Thanks for the info!

[HeLLo iM iZzY]

it'll give me better horespower numbers to turbo it anyways. Plus i found a kit on ebay for 500 bucks. so with everything else i hope to get at least 250 to the wheels. 300 total and im good.

ebay turbos FTL !!

[93H22ACX]

there are plenty of support for the h series engines... there just expensive and you have to know where to look for them.

Honestly... If I had a h23 USDM or JDM I would boost it. Compression is low enough to support a nice setup with decent/good power and not have to sleeve the block. If you want H23/h22 vtec hybrid it will be very costly. Yes you'll make more power than a h22 (with a few acceptions) but I know of one person (a girl) here in GA that have pulled it off but I dont think the motor is running in tip top shape. So as far as reliability goes based on her I would say no its not reliable. And she has invested a lot of money in that motor.

If you really want to go n/a and build a h series I suggest getting a h22. Don't worry about a intake manifold becuase the h22 intake manny flows great already. Just port out the intake manny and the TB a little bit and your good.

So my suggests are:
get h22
get type s cams and pistons
get a good header (RMF, SMSP, kteller etc..)
GET A GOOD TUNE


that is the cheapest setup I can think of off the top of my head...

just wanted to clear some stuff up... H23 is only USDM unless you are talking about H23VTEC from the accord wagon. H22/H23 hybrid is not that costly. All you'll need is a H22 head and anything h22 tbelt touches. thats kind of like a water pump and timing belt change. I would rather spend $300-$400 on a h22 head then a h23 header.

lastly, u cant really say its not reliable beacuse of 1 case....as i cant really say its reliable because mine lasted for a while :goodjob:

back to the topic...if you want to turbo it...i'd say get the mahle pistons and turbo it.... dont turbo the stock h22 or h23 block and expect it to last too long. it will last but not too long....

search on the web (especially Honda-Tech)...there are plenty of sources for any kind of builds...just have to choose what u believe is best and go with your own common sense.

[dakilla4ever]

Thats the best news i've heard preciate it.

[o_bomb]

:2cents: He is definitely right about boosting a stock h22 and h23 block. IT WILL NOT LAST LONG. My boy was having rod knock after 2 months. Its crazy! IMO H22's, 23 were never meant to be boosted!:2cents:

[Z33_kid]

get a h22 swap or a h23/ vtec only way :)

[dakilla4ever]

Thats fine by me but i've heard of plenty of h22 swap horror stories also. I know it ain't just a walk in the park but damn it looks like im shit out of luck either way i go. I mean even if i build the motor, will it then be able to handle the boost and still be reliable or should i just go with a set of Wiseco pistons and raise my compression ratio from 9.8:1 up to 13:1?

[Ludester]

just wanted to clear some stuff up... H23 is only USDM unless you are talking about H23VTEC from the accord wagon. H22/H23 hybrid is not that costly. All you'll need is a H22 head and anything h22 tbelt touches. thats kind of like a water pump and timing belt change. I would rather spend $300-$400 on a h22 head then a h23 header.

lastly, u cant really say its not reliable beacuse of 1 case....as i cant really say its reliable because mine lasted for a while :goodjob:

back to the topic...if you want to turbo it...i'd say get the mahle pistons and turbo it.... dont turbo the stock h22 or h23 block and expect it to last too long. it will last but not too long....

search on the web (especially Honda-Tech)...there are plenty of sources for any kind of builds...just have to choose what u believe is best and go with your own common sense.

who said anything about a h23 header?
the only vtec h23 is the eudm accord wagon with a tiptronic auto transmission.

I'm confident that there are plenty of hybrids that have lasted a while. but haven seen none documented. hence I use my one example.

I agree with the mahle pistons for boost. He can however boost the stock block with stock boost just have to get a really good tune and don't run too aggressive of a timing map. stOOpid on honda tech (don't remember his numbers off the top of my head. and Ludetech from preludepower makes 320whp on stock internals at 9psi daily driven for the past year and half to two years. but just like you I wouldn't boost on the stock block either. But can do it. tuning will be the key and how healthy that particular motor is.

[dakilla4ever]

So any ideas on what i else i would need to get besides the 13:1 pistons?

[93H22ACX]

who said anything about a h23 header?
the only vtec h23 is the eudm accord wagon with a tiptronic auto transmission.

I'm confident that there are plenty of hybrids that have lasted a while. but haven seen none documented. hence I use my one example.

I agree with the mahle pistons for boost. He can however boost the stock block with stock boost just have to get a really good tune and don't run too aggressive of a timing map. stOOpid on honda tech (don't remember his numbers off the top of my head. and Ludetech from preludepower makes 320whp on stock internals at 9psi daily driven for the past year and half to two years. but just like you I wouldn't boost on the stock block either. But can do it. tuning will be the key and how healthy that particular motor is.

i mentioned about the h23 header because this a NA forum and to upgrade or mod an engine...im sure first thing that comes to mind is a header. thats why i would recommend a h22 head instead of a header first.

yes i am aware of ST00PID on honda-tech as well as One-fab's h22 and a few others that were successful at boosting a stock H22....but there arent too many successful candidates in that arena besides the few.

[o_bomb]

Damn! 13 IS REALLY high! U better get some name brand rods, arp bolts, make sure the crank is balenced. High compression boost setup is not smart. I know u know that, but for u..... I dont know maybe build the shit out of the 2.3. Do u want VTEC? What do u want?

[dakilla4ever]

No i meant i was just going to go with the 13:1 compression all motor no boost. just all power from the jump. And no i don't want "VTEC" actually it irritates me. Cause it turned everyone i know into assholes cause they have "VTEC" snd they think they can conquer the world. I just want to be different. Thats why i bought the Prelude instead of a civic, integra, or 240sx. And to be even more different i want to stop a mud hole in a couple people with h22's that continue talking shit about my car saying its not a true prelude cause i don't have an h22. so all motor with 13 compression or turbo the shit out of it. It doesn't matter to me as long as i can walk an h22 like he's standing still.

[Goinfasterthanu]

with a h22 dc is the worse choice you can make. The runners and collectors are the same if not smaller than the stock ones are. its the worse way to invest 2-400 bux or however much the dc header cost.

The type s pistons are 11:1 compression pistons. If you plan on building the head then you can mill the head a little bit and you gain rough ~.2 to ~.5 more in Compression. That should put you at about ~11.5ish compression. Which is not bad for a n/a build on pump gas btw.

numbers? from the dynoes I've seen depending on how healthy the motor is you'll in the 200whp ball park. Might be a little higher.

Ok do NOT listen to this crap! I made 10 whp off a dc header!!! Have the dyno to prove it!

[o_bomb]

:boxing:Hey dakilla, thats sad that people talk shit about your car. Tell them to go hang themselves!! I hate that! I hope u get the right setup for your car! All this coming from a person that has a h22accord! Vtec is cool, but I dont think I can rule the world! Thats f*cked up. I hope u dust these fools! Then I will come in behind you and dust them again.:boxing:

[dakilla4ever]

Well thats fine but what kind of setup will i need to get those kind of power gains?

[o_bomb]

Upgrade everthing internally and proper tuning will most def give u your gains u want! Or at least get new sleeves so u can run high boost! GO DARTON!

[o_bomb]

How much power u got at the wheels buddy?^^ Just wonderin

[o_bomb]

Seems like a awesome setup, but I think buddy wants more.

[dakilla4ever]

Dont know "buddy" haven't dynoed it yet. And all im lookin for is around 300hp to the wheels. Not too much to ask from a 23 right? Cause if it is i'm really leaning towards all motor with 13:1 compression.

[o_bomb]

Right! I was really wanting to know how much power bjaccord had! All motor with 13:1? damn I cant even imagine the power.

[dakilla4ever]

Well right off the jump its probably somewhere around 400 whp.

[o_bomb]

Wow buddy sounds good to me! I wonder what I should do with my h22?:thinking: Im about to buy another block from Fivestar's buddy! I plan to either build it high compression or boost. I dont know. Should I just build the head on my block now and then build the spare block or what? What would u do? I want like 250whp!:yes:

[dakilla4ever]

it depends on what you have done already. Me personally i would build the spare block with an h22 stroker kit and be done with it. Pushin somewhere around 300-350 with a built head and running on 93 octane.

[o_bomb]

I heard stroker kits are not healthy for honda motors, but Im going to start to build that spare block!!

[dakilla4ever]

cool. how did you come across that block. i've been looking for a spare 23 block for the longest.

[93H22ACX]

cool. how did you come across that block. i've been looking for a spare 23 block for the longest.

If you needed just a spare block without a crank...u could have used the h22 block and just put the h23 crank in there....they are the same thing

[o_bomb]

Found the block on this site! Its a h22 block! It has a spun bearing, buts its better then the one I found with a cracked piston. How in the hell do u crack a piston??

[93H22ACX]

Found the block on this site! Its a h22 block! It has a spun bearing, buts its better then the one I found with a cracked piston. How in the hell do u crack a piston??

Running too lean, dropping a valve, hitting the piston with a 10lb hammer cause you're mad :D

[dakilla4ever]

well im just lookin for a spare block either h22 or 23. Doesn't matter but i don't want to spend a grip on it.

[o_bomb]

I heard that! More than grip u might as well hang yourself!!

[dakilla4ever]

whoa it ain't that serious. but i feel you.

[o_bomb]

whoa it ain't that serious. but i feel you.




:lmfao:

[o_bomb]

When I get the h22 block I will post pics!

[dakilla4ever]

cool. unless i find a dirt cheap h22 it looks like im going turbo. Preciate all the info.

[o_bomb]

NO problem mon!

[o_bomb]

The other day in kennesaw, I met a guy that had a f22b in a cb7 boosting 8lbs that had 200hp wit 200tq. Thats what he was claiming. i going to run him on thursday to see how fast it is. If he gets me by 2 or 3 cars then he is workin wit something!! What do u think. Its definitely a at home turbo kit he made off of cb7tuner.com

[dakilla4ever]

yeah you could have a good race on your hands. All depends on if he turns the boost up or not?

[o_bomb]

But his kit looked like garbage!

[o_bomb]

I need to do a 2nd gear 60mph drop on him to make it a race! When I got tuned at mainstream I put down 186hp 153tq! 8lbs on a f22b will make 200?

[92ex]

yes those numbers are correct. A member from cb7tuner.com told me about this thread. actual numbers are 205.1 wtq and 193.7 whp @ 8psi on a 14b. Those numbers are weak actually. And since then I've been experiencing a boost creep to 10psi. I'm actually in the process of re-tuning my ignition, so I may be a bit faster thursday... My setup does look like garbage, its all used parts and I did it about a year and a half ago. How many boosted members you know running that long? :taun: . We actually have about 6-10 cb7s coming out this thursday, its gonna be a good turnout so hope to see you there.

[dakilla4ever]

THIS THURSDAY? whats going on?

[92ex]

yeah, this thursday, a bunch of cb7s meet up and hang out since were all local. we do it every thursday, at least until it starts getting really cold

[dakilla4ever]

where do you meet up or is it only for accords?

[92ex]

its for everyone. In alpharetta, it's the babies r us by north point mall. Every thursday a bunch of people meet up there around 9pm in front of the babies r us. So we have a few cb7s local so we all meet up there and hang out. It's pretty cool. If anyone is in the area you should stop by

[o_bomb]

yes those numbers are correct. A member from cb7tuner.com told me about this thread. actual numbers are 205.1 wtq and 193.7 whp @ 8psi on a 14b. Those numbers are weak actually. And since then I've been experiencing a boost creep to 10psi. I'm actually in the process of re-tuning my ignition, so I may be a bit faster thursday... My setup does look like garbage, its all used parts and I did it about a year and a half ago. How many boosted members you know running that long? :taun: . We actually have about 6-10 cb7s coming out this thursday omar, its gonna be a good turnout so hope to see you there.



IS this rob?? Yo dude. Props to the garbage at home turbo kit!!:goodjob: I know it will be a good race!! Im going to try to come out thursday!! I really wanna see what your crew is working with!! Dont know 2 many people runnin that long!!

[IndianStig]

Damn, i wonder how my lude (stock h23) will fare out there. I ran a friend of mine with an RSX base today and we were neck and neck, we had 4 runs, best runs I will ever have I think, so close, we were both 2-2. I also lined up against my friend in a Teg LS with bolt ons and we went from a 40 kick, we were pretty even, me ahead by a little, but i had a passenger. I would love to run a CB7 sometime, lol, just like my old one (i miss my CB7, i wish i had gone ahead with my H22 swap), to see how the Lude would fare. Maybe one with bolt on's pushing 130-140whp (LOL what a beast).

I had a weird feeling today that i need to get ITB's, lol, I wonder how that would fare on a non-vtec h23 motor, probably be more loud then anytihng else, it would be kick arse tho. What do you guys think? I don't tihnk i will mod this H23, but how would ITB's be??



And Omar, how's the CD player search going man? Check my WTB headunit thread.

[92ex]

2 guys over on cb7tuner.com are slowly going through the process of itbs on the cb7s. one has the f22a bottom end with h23 head, and another jdm f22b i believe. The only complete itbs ive seen on a cb7 was 2point6, he has around 260whp on his h22. itbs are very nice, sounds very aggressive, a PITA to tune and get to idle properly for daily driving. but when your looking to get the most outta the h23, its a good step.

If you guys are looking to run cb7s, I don't really suggest you run any of the ones at north point, most of them are sleepers. lol.

[IndianStig]

2 guys over on cb7tuner.com are slowly going through the process of itbs on the cb7s. one has the f22a bottom end with h23 head, and another jdm f22b i believe. The only complete itbs ive seen on a cb7 was 2point6, he has around 260whp on his h22. itbs are very nice, sounds very aggressive, a PITA to tune and get to idle properly for daily driving. but when your looking to get the most outta the h23, its a good step.

If you guys are looking to run cb7s, I don't really suggest you run any of the ones at north point, most of them are sleepers. lol.

It's nothing serious with me, just nostalgia and sentiment, running my new car against my old car, haha. So yah, ITB's would be kick arse, but that would prolly cost me more then my car. How much power can an h23 handle reliably?

[92ex]

a bit over 200whp with the h23... it has pretty good potential.

[allmotoronly]

H23's always seen to have a problem with rod bearings and main bearings when you put the H22A VTEC head on it... Must be a problem with the oil journals on the stock H23 rods, which were not made to rev very high.

[dakilla4ever]

So what if you actually build the block. Can it withstand more power then?

[allmotoronly]

but building a h23 block would really be a waste, because you would be spending a lot of money to make it do what a stock h22a will do... if you replaced all the bearings with race bearings, it would be better, but the cost of tearing down the engine and prett ymuch rebuilding the bottom end would be pretty pricey. most of the gaskets would need replacing if you take it apart. If you want to auto-x the car a lot, leave it non-vtec.... look at toda's VTEC killer system... it eliminates the vtec on B series VTEC engines to prevent any oil pressure drop due to vtec engagement and also maks for a smoother powerband up high, with a slight loss of torque on the bottom end...

[dakilla4ever]

yeah but i've decided to go turbo. So building it is my best bet. And then shouldn't be a waste but be manditory. I've researched both mod types and i've found that boosting it will give me the power that i'm looking for. I'm going to use this car for drag and my next prelude for autocross.

[allmotoronly]

So I guess you should get this moved to forced induction instead of all-motor.

[dakilla4ever]

yeah i know but it originally started as a quest to find info on builing my 23 all motor. And it seemed pretty good until i said 13:1 compression and everyone flaked and said its no point in doing. See i have a prelude cause i don't like following the band wagon and getting a little civic or something, but i also want to go further away from the norm by sticking with the h23 intsead of "H22VTEC". Vtec ain't all that to me. All i want to do is really build the shit out of my 23 so i can stomp mudholes in h22 all day.

[allmotoronly]

so you can stomp mudholes in stock h22a's all day maybe... you will have to spend twice as much on a H23 as you would a H22A to get the same results.

[92ex]

yeah i mean, why bother with any stock motor, just slap a h22 in it and you'll be good. you'll be like every single other person out there, but you have almighty vtec.

Some people wanna be different, and a bit more original then swapping a h22. and more power to them. If you start off already owning the h23 motor, power/cost ratio would favor building the h23 then swapping the h22. Allbeit the h22 may have a higher potential, in all actuallity who is gonna build it to the fullest potential? Spending 2500-3000 on a h23 would walk any h22 with boltons everyday. power/cost.

cough*boost*cough lol

[allmotoronly]

yea if part of that 2500-3000 is a VTEC head..... you will have to spend way more than 2500-3000 if you plan to boost and have some real results... to start with, sleeving a h23 block will run about $1000, then you will need another $1000 worth of pistons, rods, and bearings. then $250 on a better oil pump, then another $1500 just to have someone do the work... thats already well over $3000 right there, and you havent even got to the turbo. sure you could turbo the stock engine... if you like your shit blowing up in the middle of nowhere. With a stock engine and basic bolt on turbo kit, you will be lucky to get 240-250whp... my H22A SiR S-Spec engine with intake and a catback made over 200whp. that was without opening it up or doing any work. No header, race cat, or reprogramming of any kind. I payed $3200 for it (with tranny) and it was very reliable and never gave me any problems.

I say you stay all motor and swap a jdm H22A type S head on it, throw in some pistons and rods, and get a programmable fuel system. That will probably put you well over the 200whp mark and it would not give you any of the problems you get with a really modified car... just my $.02

[o_bomb]

LOL!!

[o_bomb]

yeah i know but it originally started as a quest to find info on builing my 23 all motor. And it seemed pretty good until i said 13:1 compression and everyone flaked and said its no point in doing. See i have a prelude cause i don't like following the band wagon and getting a little civic or something, but i also want to go further away from the norm by sticking with the h23 intsead of "H22VTEC". Vtec ain't all that to me. All i want to do is really build the shit out of my 23 so i can stomp mudholes in h22 all day.


Dawg!! Boost the 23 and be done with it!!:goodjob:

[o_bomb]

yea if part of that 2500-3000 is a VTEC head..... you will have to spend way more than 2500-3000 if you plan to boost and have some real results... to start with, sleeving a h23 block will run about $1000, then you will need another $1000 worth of pistons, rods, and bearings. then $250 on a better oil pump, then another $1500 just to have someone do the work... thats already well over $3000 right there, and you havent even got to the turbo. sure you could turbo the stock engine... if you like your shit blowing up in the middle of nowhere. With a stock engine and basic bolt on turbo kit, you will be lucky to get 240-250whp... my H22A SiR S-Spec engine with intake and a catback made over 200whp. that was without opening it up or doing any work. No header, race cat, or reprogramming of any kind. I payed $3200 for it (with tranny) and it was very reliable and never gave me any problems.

I say you stay all motor and swap a jdm H22A type S head on it, throw in some pistons and rods, and get a programmable fuel system. That will probably put you well over the 200whp mark and it would not give you any of the problems you get with a really modified car... just my $.02



He has a point, your failing to realize dakilla wants to be different!!:goodjob:

[o_bomb]

its for everyone. In alpharetta, it's the babies r us by north point mall. Every thursday a bunch of people meet up there around 9pm in front of the babies r us. So we have a few cb7s local so we all meet up there and hang out. It's pretty cool. If anyone is in the area you should stop by


:( Sorry dude, but its not that cool. Since I came solo to your meet I need u to bring your "crew" to bp friday and sat. I promise you will see some good runs. O yea tell bjaccord "onewreckedrex wants to race,and boostedsvt!!. They said bring your shit. Since I pulled 92ex real bad his buddy with a white 2door cb7 boosted 9lbs wants to pic on me. Stock h22 vs dual cam motor(maybe h23), t3/t4, log manifold, delta cams, dsm 450 and whatever else. HELLO DUMBASS Im not going to race u!! I have a fukin stock h22 :screwy: Pussy ass dude wouldnt even let me see under the hood, but everyone saw what I had!! Like I said plz bring your crew to bp! I got people wanting race u bjaccord!! Must stand for blowjob!:lmfao:

[§treet_§peed]

yeah i know but it originally started as a quest to find info on builing my 23 all motor. And it seemed pretty good until i said 13:1 compression and everyone flaked and said its no point in doing. See i have a prelude cause i don't like following the band wagon and getting a little civic or something, but i also want to go further away from the norm by sticking with the h23 intsead of "H22VTEC". Vtec ain't all that to me. All i want to do is really build the shit out of my 23 so i can stomp mudholes in h22 all day. but dude...V-tec is JDM TyTe.....:goodjob: :D

[92ex]

I say you stay all motor and swap a jdm H22A type S head on it, throw in some pistons and rods, and get a programmable fuel system. That will probably put you well over the 200whp mark and it would not give you any of the problems you get with a really modified car... just my $.02
Nah, I wasn't saying boost it. I was saying for the price of buying a h22 + some installation, you could mildly build the h23 and it would be more powerful then the stock h22 for less money. power/cost. thats what i was getting at. I said nothing about boost until the end, just hinting at its the best way to go. Don't get me wrong, the h22 has GREAT potential, but I mean if you wanna be different its a way.



Sorry dude, but its not that cool. Since I came solo to your meet I need u to bring your "crew" to bp friday and sat. I promise you will see some good runs. O yea tell bjaccord "onewreckedrex wants to race,and boostedsvt!!. They said bring your shit. Since I pulled 92ex real bad his buddy with a white 2door cb7 boosted 9lbs wants to pic on me. Stock h22 vs dual cam motor(maybe h23), t3/t4, log manifold, delta cams, dsm 450 and whatever else. HELLO DUMBASS Im not going to race u!! I have a fukin stock h22 :screwy: Pussy ass dude wouldnt even let me see under the hood, but everyone saw what I had!! Like I said plz bring your crew to bp! I got people wanting race u bjaccord!! Must stand for blowjob!:lmfao:
as for this. All I have to say is grow up. No one forced you to go, I offered you to come hang out with some cb7s. "real bad", meaning you got a car on me from a 36mph roll? plus i garuantee i have compression leaks and blowby. I don't really care but don't exaggerate, you beat me, I'm a big boy i can handle it, you should learn to do the same. the races were just for fun. dont take everything so seriously. Mostly we don't care about street racing that much, we hang out and talk, sorry if you misinterpreted what we do. As for bjaccord, you only saw 5psi and a blown clutch. lol. i don't think we really care about going out and racing, its not like you were racing for money anyways.

[§treet_§peed]

:smileowne ???:D :lmfao:

[o_bomb]

Nah, I wasn't saying boost it. I was saying for the price of buying a h22 + some installation, you could mildly build the h23 and it would be more powerful then the stock h22 for less money. power/cost. thats what i was getting at. I said nothing about boost until the end, just hinting at its the best way to go. Don't get me wrong, the h22 has GREAT potential, but I mean if you wanna be different its a way.


as for this. All I have to say is grow up. No one forced you to go, I offered you to come hang out with some cb7s. "real bad", meaning you got a car on me from a 36mph roll? plus i garuantee i have compression leaks and blowby. I don't really care but don't exaggerate, you beat me, I'm a big boy i can handle it, you should learn to do the same. the races were just for fun. dont take everything so seriously. Mostly we don't care about street racing that much, we hang out and talk, sorry if you misinterpreted what we do. As for bjaccord, you only saw 5psi and a blown clutch. lol. i don't think we really care about going out and racing, its not like you were racing for money anyways.


Whatever guy! In Kennesaw u talking big sayin u would race any day of the week against me!! U remember! So I challenged u! DUH!:D It doesnt matter how I raced u. u claim u got 205whp and 193wtq on a boosted f22b, so think about it:thinking: , your supposed to be wasting me from any roll! dont be mad, it was a car and half up to at least 80 90mph before I let off. We are supposed to be posting this in kills! btw i didnt even race bjaccord, but i have peeps who do:yes: ITs not about money geek its about pride IMO! btw IM grown!!

[o_bomb]

yes those numbers are correct. A member from cb7tuner.com told me about this thread. actual numbers are 205.1 wtq and 193.7 whp @ 8psi on a 14b. Those numbers are weak actually. And since then I've been experiencing a boost creep to 10psi. I'm actually in the process of re-tuning my ignition, so I may be a bit faster thursday... My setup does look like garbage, its all used parts and I did it about a year and a half ago. How many boosted members you know running that long? :taun: . We actually have about 6-10 cb7s coming out this thursday, its gonna be a good turnout so hope to see you there.


#'s are not correct!! At least in your car its not!

[93H22ACX]

Nah, I wasn't saying boost it. I was saying for the price of buying a h22 + some installation, you could mildly build the h23 and it would be more powerful then the stock h22 for less money. power/cost. thats what i was getting at. I said nothing about boost until the end, just hinting at its the best way to go. Don't get me wrong, the h22 has GREAT potential, but I mean if you wanna be different its a way.



if you want to spend $1000's. there have been stock H22's making between 180-200whp in its stock form...

H23's will take alot of money to gain that much....NA is hard to gain 20+whp without spending $1000's....

but if you really want to then go for it... best hp to $$ would be to modify an already good flowing head like a H22 head.

anything can make power, its just how much money do you want to spend to get there...and is it really worth the cost of "being different"

[foxyred]

bjaccord, bring your shit!!

[o_bomb]

you do not need to get any oil lines or tap the block for vtec. everything is already there. all you need to do is remove the oil orfice out of the h23 block.
i had a H23VTEC hybrid about 2 years ago....


to the oringal thread starter....

if i had a h23 i would put a h22 head on it...other wise get a full h22. one of my friends did a all motor h23 just working on the head and made 180whp. for the amount of money he spent, he could have gotten a h22 head and made as much or more power just by getting the head. would have been cheaper..

if you dont really know what you are doing..i wouldnt suggest turboing a h-series with stock bottom end. alot of guys blow the bottom end up because of weak ringlands on the stock H motors.



agreed^^:goodjob:, but I think he wants to build before boost!

[bjaccord]

Whatever guy! In Kennesaw u talking big sayin u would race any day of the week against me!! U remember! So I challenged u! DUH!:D It doesnt matter how I raced u. u claim u got 205whp and 193wtq on a boosted f22b, so think about it:thinking: , your supposed to be wasting me from any roll! dont be mad, it was a car and half up to at least 80 90mph before I let off. We are supposed to be posting this in kills! btw i didnt even race bjaccord, but i have peeps who do:yes: ITs not about money geek its about pride IMO! btw IM grown!!


Didn't race me??????

Maybe I blanked out for 10 mins :rolleyes:

And who are your "Peeps who do :yes: "

Are they racing me now?
As I type?
Oh shit!!! I'm racing!!!!



I remember something slightly different.

You got a little jump on me, and with a slipping clutch I still pulled on you.

Don't deny the painfully obvious truth.

I'm not here to argue anyway, you beat 92ex, I beat you, so what...


We all have cb7's that are modded, 92ex and I took a different rout than you, get over it.

You were invited to hang out with us (Fellow cb7 owners) and that was all

Personaly I'd invite you out again if your attitude changed, otherwise you just don't fit in with the group.

We just hang out and chat, nothing more, nothing less.

Your the first person that I ever truly raced on the street (And most likely the last going on the little bitchfest that you've started) and I happened to beat you.


Anyway, back on subject....




(Sorry for posting useless non-sense in this thread, continue on)

[o_bomb]

Didn't race me??????

Maybe I blanked out for 10 mins :rolleyes:

And who are your "Peeps who do :yes: "

Are they racing me now?
As I type?
Oh shit!!! I'm racing!!!!



I remember something slightly different.

You got a little jump on me, and with a slipping clutch I still pulled on you.

Don't deny the painfully obvious truth.

I'm not here to argue anyway, you beat 92ex, I beat you, so what...


We all have cb7's that are modded, 92ex and I took a different rout than you, get over it.

You were invited to hang out with us (Fellow cb7 owners) and that was all

Personaly I'd invite you out again if your attitude changed, otherwise you just don't fit in with the group.

We just hang out and chat, nothing more, nothing less.

Your the first person that I ever truly raced on the street (And most likely the last going on the little bitchfest that you've started) and I happened to beat you.


Anyway, back on subject....




(Sorry for posting useless non-sense in this thread, continue on)


Yeah stop posting dumbass bullshit! I let off as soon as u took off idiot! Thats why u went out by whatever cars u think u fuckin geek! stfo IA!! Believe me I know I dont fit in the GEEK SQUAD, bring your cakeass to BP!! Try to fit in there!! Everyone told me also that its real fuckin lame there anywayz! Rob is the only one I would hang out with! As for the rest of u cakerboys... I dont really know!!

[dakilla4ever]

o.....k......So back to the subject. Would H22 pistons fit in my h23. I was thinking about putting the JE 11.5:1 H22 pistons in my 23, but i don't know if they would work. I found out that the cr would drop to about 11:1 thats fine by me. Its better than 9.8. But don't know if it will work need info/opinions/help.

[o_bomb]

I forgot what the hell was going on with all this BS in the air! Dakilla are u trying to boost or na? Ive never heard of 22pistons in 23! Go with the jE

[92ex]

h22 wouldn't work, you would need to have the rosd redone since h23 wont fit the h22 pistons. If your planning on boosting later down the road, don't up the compression

[Vteckidd]

1) All motor wise, do what Bee aka 93h22aCX said, GET AN H22 HEAD.
2) The h23 IMO is one of the SHITTIEST motors honda ever made. They blow headgaskets, spin rod bearings, and they are OLD. Its like doing an LSVTEC. AN h23 bottom end was NEVER designed to go to 8000rpms, so what push it there? Doing an H23VTEC gives you the VTEC power, but if you cant rev it out reliably, WHATS THE POINT?

Personally, i would Purchase an H22 longblock from a JDM importer. Or look for one USED in GOOD SHAPE. i have bought FULL 98-00 H22 LONGBLOCKS for as cheap as $650. The h22 was designed to rev high, its got VTEC, there are TONS of upgrades availabie for it from rods, pistons, cams, intake manifolds, ETC. why be DIFFERENT, when you can make power so easily. why reinvent the wheel?

We have dynoed STOCK h22s that make 175whp. Stock header, stock intake, stock cams. I have never heard of ANY h23 making over 155whp STOCK.

AccordM3 has a MILDLY built h22 making 227whp. He has Type-S pistons, Skunk2 Stage2 cams an valvetrain, EuroR manifold, Eagle rods. thats it.

Goinfasterthanu has a STOCK Internals H22, with a DC header and an intake an exhaust that put down 193whp. STOCK CAMS, STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD, STOCK BOTTOM END.

An h23, i wouldnt do shit to it, i woudlnt even boost it. not worth the money on such a crap ass motor LOL, sorry bee.

So, in closing, STAY ON TOPIC, if i read one more fucking time about the CB7 guys vs O-BOMB im banning people.

To the guy that posted this, get an H22 if you REALLY want to stay all motor. youll thank me an bee in the end

[allmotoronly]

1) All motor wise, do what Bee aka 93h22aCX said, GET AN H22 HEAD.
2) The h23 IMO is one of the SHITTIEST motors honda ever made. They blow headgaskets, spin rod bearings, and they are OLD. Its like doing an LSVTEC. AN h23 bottom end was NEVER designed to go to 8000rpms, so what push it there? Doing an H23VTEC gives you the VTEC power, but if you cant rev it out reliably, WHATS THE POINT?

Personally, i would Purchase an H22 longblock from a JDM importer. Or look for one USED in GOOD SHAPE. i have bought FULL 98-00 H22 LONGBLOCKS for as cheap as $650. The h22 was designed to rev high, its got VTEC, there are TONS of upgrades availabie for it from rods, pistons, cams, intake manifolds, ETC. why be DIFFERENT, when you can make power so easily. why reinvent the wheel?

We have dynoed STOCK h22s that make 175whp. Stock header, stock intake, stock cams. I have never heard of ANY h23 making over 155whp STOCK.

AccordM3 has a MILDLY built h22 making 227whp. He has Type-S pistons, Skunk2 Stage2 cams an valvetrain, EuroR manifold, Eagle rods. thats it.

Goinfasterthanu has a STOCK Internals H22, with a DC header and an intake an exhaust that put down 193whp. STOCK CAMS, STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD, STOCK BOTTOM END.

An h23, i wouldnt do shit to it, i woudlnt even boost it. not worth the money on such a crap ass motor LOL, sorry bee.

So, in closing, STAY ON TOPIC, if i read one more fucking time about the CB7 guys vs O-BOMB im banning people.

To the guy that posted this, get an H22 if you REALLY want to stay all motor. youll thank me an bee in the end

exactly what I said. maybe he will believe you Mr. 2jzkidd

[Vteckidd]

exactly what I said. maybe he will believe you Mr. 2jzkidd
BTW i was agreeing with yuo too LOL :goodjob:

[o_bomb]

1) All motor wise, do what Bee aka 93h22aCX said, GET AN H22 HEAD.
2) The h23 IMO is one of the SHITTIEST motors honda ever made. They blow headgaskets, spin rod bearings, and they are OLD. Its like doing an LSVTEC. AN h23 bottom end was NEVER designed to go to 8000rpms, so what push it there? Doing an H23VTEC gives you the VTEC power, but if you cant rev it out reliably, WHATS THE POINT?

Personally, i would Purchase an H22 longblock from a JDM importer. Or look for one USED in GOOD SHAPE. i have bought FULL 98-00 H22 LONGBLOCKS for as cheap as $650. The h22 was designed to rev high, its got VTEC, there are TONS of upgrades availabie for it from rods, pistons, cams, intake manifolds, ETC. why be DIFFERENT, when you can make power so easily. why reinvent the wheel?

We have dynoed STOCK h22s that make 175whp. Stock header, stock intake, stock cams. I have never heard of ANY h23 making over 155whp STOCK.

AccordM3 has a MILDLY built h22 making 227whp. He has Type-S pistons, Skunk2 Stage2 cams an valvetrain, EuroR manifold, Eagle rods. thats it.

Goinfasterthanu has a STOCK Internals H22, with a DC header and an intake an exhaust that put down 193whp. STOCK CAMS, STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD, STOCK BOTTOM END.

An h23, i wouldnt do shit to it, i woudlnt even boost it. not worth the money on such a crap ass motor LOL, sorry bee.

So, in closing, STAY ON TOPIC, if i read one more fucking time about the CB7 guys vs O-BOMB im banning people.

To the guy that posted this, get an H22 if you REALLY want to stay all motor. youll thank me an bee in the end




AMEN!

[§treet_§peed]

MIKE OWNZ...listen to him and all of his MASIIVE HONDA KNOWLEDGE....:werd:

[92ex]

or even better then the almighty h22....f23 bottom end(upgrade bearings), and a h22 head. Grab some 11:1 pistons, and h22s got nothing

[allmotoronly]

why would you waste your money on that? after you paid for all new bearings, a set of pistons, a set of rods (F23 are no where rated for 8k rpm), a shitload of fabbing to get the H22A head to bolt up correctly, custom timing belt, and who knows what else you could have bought 2 H22A's

[Vteckidd]

or even better then the almighty h22....f23 bottom end(upgrade bearings), and a h22 head. Grab some 11:1 pistons, and h22s got nothing
What abour R/S ratio? what about piston sideload?

so you want to rev a 2.3l Bottom end to 9000rpms?

The powerband of an NA motor is going to be high revving from a 4 cylinder, PERIOD. so you could try an be different, and use .1l of displacement more thinking its going to make GOBS MORE HORSEPOWER, when in reality, its not.

So insteand of building a shitty motor like the H23/F23, you could just buy an H22, an slap cams in it and make more power.

The amount of money it will cost you to build an F23/H22 hybrid negates the whole purpose. Maybe if you were building a purpose built race motor, that lasted 5-10 passes. But for the STREET, H22 with cams> any other H or F series motor, PERIOD.

[allmotoronly]

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Yea, oem timing belts are definantly custom.

And yea those oem or arp h22 headstuds are rediculously hard to find these days.

Anyway, to each there own. Yes the h22 has more easy potential, but if your building something (Not just swapping pistons, and maybe rods) I mean building something stout, why not take the extra displacement?

For your average build I agree, the h22, n/a, boost, nitrous whatever will satisfy most on the board.

L8r

last time I checked, the H22A timing belt is too long for a h22a head/F23 bottom end, and the F23 is of course too short. The oil passages between the block and head are different sizes and do not all line up.

if displacement is the only reason you suggested the f23, there are a few stroker kits for the H22A. I mean hell, you said building something stout... having a H22A block sleeved will run you about $900, a stroker kit will run about $2000, and will up displacement to 2.4L on most kits, and 2.5L on one (I cant remember which). Then you could spend another $1200 on the valvetrain, $500 on IM/TB, about $700 on injectors and hondata, $300 on an upgraded oil pump or oil pump gear, a $400 header and you will be set. thats about $5500... plus about $500 worth of gaskets and bearings and shit I forgot to add, and you will have an engine with more displacement than the F23, and cost way less than doing all that shit to a F23 bottom end (sleeving, rods, pistons, etc) since those parts are not as readily avaliable and more costly.

yea it would be cool but it would be a waste of time and money to do all that shit. The difference between 2.2L and 2.3L does not justify the price difference between F23 parts and H22A parts... its only 100cc's larger

heres a link to a thread where a guy swapped a h22 head onto a f23 bottom end... it was a pain in the ass and he had to close up a few cooling holes in the head. It is turbo and still only made 214whp.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1069869&page=1

[Vteckidd]

while i have no problem with H23s , boosted

all motor wise, if hes asking this question, then hes prob not going to do the work himself.

an h22 runs $1000

With a $1000 you could barely buy the H22 CRANK, Mahle PIstons an Eagle rods. Then you would still need bearings and assemble it himself. That leaves no money for machine work if its needed, an still a H23 head. he would have to pull the motor an dissasemble it to put the h22 crank in the h23 block. its definetly not for a novice mechanic.

A stock H22 swap from us would run you under $2000 (longblock only)

I dont think he can built an H23 for anwhere near that price. even if he did the work himself.

The power vs cost still favors the h22 longblock swap IMO
IMHO the h22 is better as far as parts availability, reliability when it comes to making NA POWER.

[Vteckidd]

oh but i respect your views, sorry to bash your motor ;)

[o_bomb]

why would you waste your money on that? after you paid for all new bearings, a set of pistons, a set of rods (F23 are no where rated for 8k rpm), a shitload of fabbing to get the H22A head to bolt up correctly, custom timing belt, and who knows what else you could have bought 2 H22A's



agreed!

[allmotoronly]

Well, I'm not here to argue, I guess if you feel that the g23 motor is just so difficult then we simply have different levels of mechanical capabilities and knowledge I guess.

I am actually not really a fan of them (The 2.3 vtec combo's) Not in my car atleast. They do seem to have more problems, but I have seen some great results from them as well. Aside from your example there have been a few (That I know of, so odds are there are more) that have went over 300whp with stock internals.

I'm not defending them, or trying to talk people into them, just looking at both sides of the topic.

I already have a boosted h23 in my car, and it's doing very well, I don't over rev it at all and it's been taking 8 psi for years, and is tuned to 10 for at the track (And at 10 aproaching the 300whp mark) and 100% stock (It even took a 25psi spike the other day when the bolt backed out of the boost/vacuum reference port on the wastegate)

Anyway, I'm working on building another block right now to use in the future and have been trying to source an h22 crank to use to essentialy build me an h22 with an h23 block code on the outside.

If this guy wanted to do the same, with a built motor for n/a it would be the same, use his h23 block (Identical in every way to the h22 block), get the h22 crank, buy your aftermarket rods and pistons (For the h22, and at h22 prices) and have him a built h22 bottom end, then it would be up to him on what head to use (Obviously if he's going n/a the ONLY choice is the h22/f20b heads if he wants to make good power.

He wouldn't have to go through the original purchase price of an h22 (Lets just say 1000 on average) and put that cash towards a built n/a motor.

Just my thoughts I guess, it's all up to him (Thread starter) in the end, take in all this advice and make his own decision.

Mainstream has impressed me with there shop, and Scotts tuning, and all the info they have posted here (Other than the h23 bashing, hurt my feelings a little bit ;) j/k) so I would check them out for the build and tuning.

L8r all


my mechanical capabilities huh.... my mechanical capabilities are fine... if anyone has a problem with capabilities, it is the person who thinks spending $5000 on a "G"23 is better than spending $1500 on a H22A longblock. that shit is unreliable except for a very very few cases. You have a bunch of people here who really know what they are talking about and know how its done. Obviously the guy doesn't have a huge budget or else he wouldnt be asking questions, he would pay someone else to figure it out. The cheapest and most realiable thing to do is to get a H22A longblock. I got one from south FLA performance once for $1500 for the longblock. They will sleeve it for an additional $900. add some low compression pistons, rods, and bearings while you are at it and you are still under $3500. throw in some better valve springs and bolt your turbo kit up and you can expect well over 350whp (with a programmable ECU of course). If you want to keep it simple, just swap in the H22A and add a few bolt-ons, maybe some type S cams and a Euro-R IM and there you can easily see 195+whp. It will get 23mpg and will not leave you sitting on the side of the road.

The guy already has a H23... If he is hell bent on boosting it, then he should just get a bolt on turbo kit. If he is looking for big numbers, then he is going to have to step it up and spend some money. The H23 was not meant to rev as high as the H22A. The F23 bottom end was definitely not made to rev that high. it has weak rods that are not as wide as H22/23 rods... It cant handle as much boost.

Save your money.

[dakilla4ever]

Sorry been busy all weekend. Ok here is what i have.
H23-completely stock block and head is h23 original no f23 parts at all
Msd Sci-ignition, wires, distributor cap, blaster ss coil
Ebay cold air Intake
DC Sports 4-2-1 Header
Magnaflow high-flow cat
Custom 2.25 exhaust
Nuespeed short shifter
With this setup i beat a base model Rsx last night. I mainly started cause yes of course im on a budget, but the main reason is to make affordable power with my h23. Whether its boost or n/a, I don't care. All i want is at the very least 250 whp, reliable daily-driver/ hell driven weekend warrior. Building just to have fun. Hope this clears things up. If anyone has any ideas after reading this. Plz inform me without bashing my motor/my car. You may think its a piece of shit but in the end its MY piece of shit. And i ripped plenty of ass holes with it.

[Ludester]

^^ go boosted man... n/a 250whp won't be cheap.

[allmotoronly]

^^ go boosted man... n/a 250whp won't be cheap.

250whp N/A would cost you twice as much as it would to turbo it.... just buy a basic bolt on kit. you can get a Drag kit for less than $3000.

[92ex]

lol, you know nothing about putting together a g23 vtec then. there no where near as hard as your trying to make it out. and at 8.4:1 compression, they make the same power as h22s...

[Vteckidd]

lol, you know nothing about putting together a g23 vtec then. there no where near as hard as your trying to make it out. and at 8.4:1 compression, they make the same power as h22s...

So you would rather build some hybrid combo that would require you to do ALOT MORE WORK than just buying an already assembled, ready to run motor?

plus, the F23 cant rev past 6500 reliably, period, so why even try to make it a 8000rpm motor? if you start buying F23 rods, then that gets expensive as i only think Road Race Engineering sells those rods, and they are EXPENSIVE. $800 a set IIRC

H22 still wins.

:D

[allmotoronly]

(directed at 92ex)



whatever man... did you not read any of my posts??? that shit is unreliable. I looked all over and found one that had made to to 20k miles... and its a F23 bottom end with a h23 non-vtec head. None with the H22A head last. partly because you have to block off 4 coolant passages, which eventually leads to warpage. Give it up. He has a H23, he wants to keep it a h23A... i guess you cant read what the guy who started this thread said. he wants to know how to get more power from his H23A not how to swap a F23 bottom end into it, which has shitty rods that are narrower and the hole on the crank shaft end is a lot smaller than the H22/23 rods.

what the hell makes you think a "G23" with a stock h22a head and no mods will beat a stock H22A in HP? the ones I have seen make 160whp at the most with some bolt on-s. Hell even the turbo one only made 212whp. My jdm SiR S-Spec H22A made 204whp stock with intake and a catback. So after all that shit, the guy with the turbo "G23" only made 8 more hp than me. The ones with 270-300whp are built. This guy does not want to spend that much money, and especially on something that is not going to last 15k miles and eat a rod bearing.

it seems you are the one who knows nothing of the "G23"

BTW, quit calling it a G series... Honda already has one. Its the G25 found in the 2.5TL.

The F23 bottom end/ H22A top end combination is a waste of time and money. Why not just buy a jdm H23 VTEC? you can get one for about $2300. Thats what it would cost you to build a "G23" that would last.

[allmotoronly]

H22 still wins.

:D

+1

[92ex]

i have seen one in person, and have helped tune it. It spun a bearing(naturally). It made h22 numbers.

As for staying h23, I said my opinion on how to make the h23 better, and all you guys can say is get an h22. I gave an alternative that's better then the h22, so:2up:

[Vteckidd]

i have seen one in person, and have helped tune it. It spun a bearing(naturally). It made h22 numbers.



H22>G23

[99SI]

Trying to push 250 from a stock block H23 is not a good idea. There is no way to do it cheaply or reliably. Good luck to the thread starter making 250 out of an H23, more power to you. There are limits and capabilities of all engines, there's only so much you can squeeze out of a stock engine before failure or power hits a wall then you are looking at costly options. BTW, this thread is full of stupid shit from a select few, if someone cleaned up the irrelevant, dumbass posts it might actually be something that people could learn something from.

[allmotoronly]

yea no more BS about "G23's". lets talk realistically about possibilities for the H23. I gave my opinion about the drag turbo kit (T04e)

[o_bomb]

(directed at 92ex)



whatever man... did you not read any of my posts??? that shit is unreliable. I looked all over and found one that had made to to 20k miles... and its a F23 bottom end with a h23 non-vtec head. None with the H22A head last. partly because you have to block off 4 coolant passages, which eventually leads to warpage. Give it up. He has a H23, he wants to keep it a h23A... i guess you cant read what the guy who started this thread said. he wants to know how to get more power from his H23A not how to swap a F23 bottom end into it, which has shitty rods that are narrower and the hole on the crank shaft end is a lot smaller than the H22/23 rods.

what the hell makes you think a "G23" with a stock h22a head and no mods will beat a stock H22A in HP? the ones I have seen make 160whp at the most with some bolt on-s. Hell even the turbo one only made 212whp. My jdm SiR S-Spec H22A made 204whp stock with intake and a catback. So after all that shit, the guy with the turbo "G23" only made 8 more hp than me. The ones with 270-300whp are built. This guy does not want to spend that much money, and especially on something that is not going to last 15k miles and eat a rod bearing.

it seems you are the one who knows nothing of the "G23"

BTW, quit calling it a G series... Honda already has one. Its the G25 found in the 2.5TL.

The F23 bottom end/ H22A top end combination is a waste of time and money. Why not just buy a jdm H23 VTEC? you can get one for about $2300. Thats what it would cost you to build a "G23" that would last.


Agreed!! listen to the man! DAMN!!:yes:

[allmotoronly]

Post number 42 in this thread:

Log manifold
t3/to4e
wastegate-external dump
FMIC
DSM 450cc injectors
Delta Cams-260 duration (Very mild, didn't change idle or anything)
3" exhaust
Wideband tuning @ 9psi

With my older setup I put down 247 hp 231 tq

That was with the stock h23, 8 psi, oem cams and everything else mentioned above (I have 550cc injectors but thats irellevant, I mentioned the 450's due to price)

He wanted 250whp, thats about the best way to do it. He could even use the cams (200 bux) and run slightly less boost to get those numbers, with less wear and tear on the motor.

L8r

how much $$$ do you think you have in that setup? supposedly the Drag kit is good for about 240whp or so... it runs anywhere from $2500-3000.
heres an add for the drag kit.
DRAG Turbo kit includes:
- Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
- Turbonetics T4/T3 TO4E High flow turbocharger assembly
- Turbonetics Delta gate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
- Drag High Flow front mount intercooler w/ polished cast aluminum end tanks
- Blitz blow-off valve
- Drag mandrel bent high flow chrome plated pipes
- Drag mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe
- Drag wastegate dump tube assembly
- Drag Blue silicone hose and hose clamps
- Drag High pressure/High volume inline fuel pump
- Boost dependent FMU fuel regulator
- Intake air filter assembly
- Map sensor bypass valves
- Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings
- Oil return assembly
- All necessary hardware and fittings
- All necessary hose and hose clamps
- All necessary gaskets
- Installation manual
Product Features:
- Dyno-proven to add 100+ HP on average.
- Capable of supporting up to 450 HP
- Capable of max boost of 25 PSI.
- Work with both automatic and 5-speed manual transmission.
- Work with/without factory air conditioning.

you could get a turbonetics stage 2 kit for about 500 more and it comes with 450cc injectors and a fuel controller.

[dakilla4ever]

Well thats what i was planning on doing. I want to do put everything on myself but let someone else tune it for me. I've heard that piecing a turbo kit together comes out cheaper than buying an actual kit from a manufacturer. Anyways i just need more power for the moment. So i guess i'll just get some aggressive cams from crower and be done until i save up some more money.

[allmotoronly]

piecing a kit together yourself is cheaper, but when companies such as DRAG and turbonetics put a kit together, they test it and know exactly which turbo and what trim size works best. You might save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself, but just buying one complete kit that comes with directions and all the little extra shit (oil lines, silicon boots, etc) is worth it in the end.

[Ludester]

piecing a kit together yourself is cheaper, but when companies such as DRAG and turbonetics put a kit together, they test it and know exactly which turbo and what trim size works best. You might save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself, but just buying one complete kit that comes with directions and all the little extra shit (oil lines, silicon boots, etc) is worth it in the end.

dakiller listen to this guy. Hell he has posted pretty much what I would've typed throughout the entire thread:goodjob:

plus one for you :D

[allmotoronly]

thanks buddy!!!

[dakilla4ever]

Cool preciate it.

[dakilla4ever]

So what all would i need to do to my motor as far as prep work, so i know it will last a long time with setup?

[allmotoronly]

ACL bearings, upgraded oil pump or oil pump gear, balanced crank/rods/pistons, and either a block brace or preferrably sleeves. Then you can do whatever you want. have the work done by a reputiable machine shop.

[dakilla4ever]

h23a1 · · darton iron sleeves · je pistons 9:1 gude race head · -Port and Polished Head · -Performance valve kit -Drag intake manifold · AEM Cam Gears · ARP Head Studs · AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator · AEM Fuel Rail · Walbro 255 Intank fuel pump full 3" exhaust · Apexi N1 muffler

[o_bomb]

u on the right track!!

[allmotoronly]

u on the right track!!
yea sounds like it

[dakilla4ever]

But is there anyway to get some custom pistons made for the h23? Cause if i could ge JE, or Wiseco to make me some pistons for the 23 i would still go all motor but with 12.5:1 compression.

[dakilla4ever]

My main goal is to be faster but keeping all my reliability. I'm a fan of boost but my heart is all motor. So if i dont get anywhere near 250 whp i'll be fine as long as i have at least 200 i'm good. I'll still be able to walk h22's all day. :)

[Maddog84555]

i just bought a car that has a h23a1...in it..i was wondering if anyone could point me in the right area to buy a h22 vtec head and everything i need for a vtec swap.



EMAIL me at [email protected]

[dakilla4ever]

Ok well lets stay on subject here and stop thread jacking. Hows this sound type-s pistons cams, balanced crank, and titanium springs and retainers.

[Maddog84555]

Lame.

[dakilla4ever]

O...K..... back to subject. So what should i go with? Turbo kit or h22 type-s pistons in the h23 all motor running 12.5:1 compression on all oem parts.

[Big J]

Turbo............just tell me when you want start.

[dakilla4ever]

Yeah well its still up in the air for right now. I don't know which one would be best for autocross.