Big J
04-29-2006, 09:07 PM
I thought I'd share some of my tricks with you guys. Yea, my camera sucks, but I got mad fab skills:D*****If you don't have confidance in your skills think before you attempt this***** Overall it took about 1.5 hours (should be able to do it in about 45 mins), thats with basic hand tools, stopping to take pictures, disassebling and putting back together, testing, and not taking my ADD meds.Works great. The idea was to add a second post the gear select assembly on the transmission.
In the picture below are the following item I bought at Lowes: 1/4 x 20 stainless bolts x2 $1.73. 1/4 x20 tap and drill bit $4.98. ***These come in a set for a reason.*** 1/4x5/16x3/4 bronze bushing $2.53. Bronze is softer than the metals it will be in contact with so it won't wear hard on the other parts.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo001.jpg
Here is the hole drilled and tapped, you will have to move some stuff to get to this, and get the drill in place. Measure, measure, measure, if you jack this part up and drill in the wrong place, the mod is over. Use a punch to minimize bit walk, and drill as perpendicular as possible. No harm done if you do f**k up, just tell your self the hole is there to make your car lighter and put everything back together.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo006.jpg
When the hole is done, use the bolt and bushing to put it together and test for binding, excessive contact with other moving parts, if everything is cool it's time to prep the bolt. Cut off the head of the bolt, not too short, not too long, you need the extra legnth to cut a slot for a flat head screw driver. You can use a die grinder or Dremel tool for both. Use the bushing placed at where the shank starts to measure where the hole for the cotter pin will be drilled. once all this "complicated machine" work is done it should look somthing like this:
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo008.jpg
Now clean the hole and your new post to remove all oil, loctite likes this step. Screw it in, hook everything up.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo011.jpg
DONE:
new third
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo014.jpg
new forth
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo015.jpg
old third
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo017.jpg
old forth
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo018.jpg
The throw is shortened about %50. The whole pattern is moved foward, including neutral.
If you look at the 4th picture, the best way to determine where the hole need to be is to: make sure the trans is in neutral, place the cable end between the post and the pivot point/fulcrum, shim it with a drivers license or cerdit card on BOTH sides and mark the center (I just eyeballed it, the shim idea came to me later), with a punch make a pilot divot.
In the picture below are the following item I bought at Lowes: 1/4 x 20 stainless bolts x2 $1.73. 1/4 x20 tap and drill bit $4.98. ***These come in a set for a reason.*** 1/4x5/16x3/4 bronze bushing $2.53. Bronze is softer than the metals it will be in contact with so it won't wear hard on the other parts.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo001.jpg
Here is the hole drilled and tapped, you will have to move some stuff to get to this, and get the drill in place. Measure, measure, measure, if you jack this part up and drill in the wrong place, the mod is over. Use a punch to minimize bit walk, and drill as perpendicular as possible. No harm done if you do f**k up, just tell your self the hole is there to make your car lighter and put everything back together.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo006.jpg
When the hole is done, use the bolt and bushing to put it together and test for binding, excessive contact with other moving parts, if everything is cool it's time to prep the bolt. Cut off the head of the bolt, not too short, not too long, you need the extra legnth to cut a slot for a flat head screw driver. You can use a die grinder or Dremel tool for both. Use the bushing placed at where the shank starts to measure where the hole for the cotter pin will be drilled. once all this "complicated machine" work is done it should look somthing like this:
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo008.jpg
Now clean the hole and your new post to remove all oil, loctite likes this step. Screw it in, hook everything up.
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo011.jpg
DONE:
new third
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo014.jpg
new forth
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo015.jpg
old third
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo017.jpg
old forth
http://gallery.thevboard.com/showpic.php?dispsize=Original&album=Big%20J&pic=Photo018.jpg
The throw is shortened about %50. The whole pattern is moved foward, including neutral.
If you look at the 4th picture, the best way to determine where the hole need to be is to: make sure the trans is in neutral, place the cable end between the post and the pivot point/fulcrum, shim it with a drivers license or cerdit card on BOTH sides and mark the center (I just eyeballed it, the shim idea came to me later), with a punch make a pilot divot.