I might be getting a rx-7

[TIGERJC]

what are a few things i should watch out for when buying a 93-95 rx-7

[EJ25RUN]

hmmmmmm

Blown engines

burning oil

overheating

oww and watch out for driving it, it really adds to those other 3

[TIGERJC]

some cars have certain notorious problem, jackass

[EJ25RUN]

some cars have certain notorious problem, jackass

calm dowm. ;)

i love fd's,

just think id be happier getting rotary fun with an fc for the $


nooo...... 1979 corolla wagon with 20b hella boost and n20.... :cool:

[BID BAD 13-B]

those are the basics,dont run lean,watch temp ,oil,and fuel,vacume leaks are bad,make sure u upgrade the cooling system!dont rev over 4 grand until warmed up.little things like that make the motor last longer. anything that is fd is going to b pricy.

[i4_garage]

FC is better

[Doppelgänger]

what are a few things i should watch out for when buying a 93-95 rx-7
better have a GOOD paying job and deep pockets....... and know how to work on one....

FD is a horrable car for someone who does not already know them. Sure they look pretty, but unless you build it right, you'll be building it a lot. If you want to start, get a 1st gen and start learning...or get a TII if you have more money to put into one....

FD - $9000-$15,000+++
Your first blown motor - $3000-$4000+ unless you know a good rotary mechanic.

Remember, one knock of defonation will KILL the engine (not always, but very possable)

[BID BAD 13-B]

my gas gauge was broke,i ran outa gas,detonated the motor.fds are deep pocket wheels,i coulda had a used 911 turbo.

[TIGERJC]

o i know, but i will be getting a deal for this rx-7 with a motor that has 15k on the motor and im going to buy me a bet up truck as my daily. i know rx-7 are expensive, friend told me not that rx7 repairs cost a little more than a mr2. but he did say that more things go wrong with the rx-7

[Russ]

meh FC better

[Doppelgänger]

o i know, but i will be getting a deal for this rx-7 with a motor that has 15k on the motor and im going to buy me a bet up truck as my daily. i know rx-7 are expensive, friend told me not that rx7 repairs cost a little more than a mr2. but he did say that more things go wrong with the rx-7
if you have to compare a MR2 to a RX-7....you need to forget about buying a FD. Like i said, initial cost of the car is the smallist purchace you will make owning that car.

[Doppelgänger]

oh... you might want to spend your money on a english class or two.

[Five*Star*]

What's up JC?


Hey, if you plan on getting an FD, just remember that you may have to be dropping it off at the shop pretty often for little things to be replaced, unless the whole underhood problems have been addressed and the 5th gear doesn't go bad. Plus, if the chassis has over approx. 75K miles, the rear suspension will rattle and cluck because the pillow bushings wear out after that mileage.


I say, if you are going to buy an FD, do some heavy research, and make shure you are ready to do it right. Otherwise you will end up with a car that sits alot, and takes a ton of money on new parts to make it run properly.


If you are ready, go for it, I will gladly service and repair the car for you or do all of the preventative maintenence, and reliability mods. Definately set aside $1000-$2000 when you get the car if you intend to drive it. That way you can get some of the mods done and all maintenence up to date. That car is not very easy to work on, and therefore costs more in labor than a honda or MR2 in most cases.


Hit me up if you get one!


Michael

[PSINXS]

here is my post from 300zxclub.com. taken from sport compact car

I will quote the mag here on the rx-7 first:
Recalls:
1. Fuel Line recall ( replace original with more heat resistant lines and add a fan control unit to run fans if coolant gets toohot even if engine is off)

2.Cooling System recall (replacing the water pump bearing housing, the water level sensor and upper radiator hose, the thermostat gasket, and ALL water hoses above the engine.

3.Brake Recall ( replacing a vacuum check valve and hose leading to the brake booster. Original may stick preventing power assist when braking.

Other problems:
- no boost above 4500rpm
-oil pressure gauge reads 0 psi
-hood squeaks and rattles
-hand brake light comeso n while driving
-low coolant alarm goes off
-radio flashes "err" code (who cares about this one?)
-paint problems
-battery failure n leakage
- brake rotor warping
-suspension clunk
-cracking factory wheels
-oil pan leak
-interior parts cracking and breaking

Make sure u get a bost reading of 10psi up to 4500rpm and drop to 8 psi by redline. I f not there is a vacuum issue.

Apex seal and O-Ring problem. If not repaired will require a complete rebuild.
In other words prepare to spend some dough.

[David88vert]

150K miles on my FD - I have spent very little on maintenance. You just have to know what you are doing whenever you have any high performance car. ANY car that was designed to give performance is going to wear out components faster.
If you are not confident that you can handle it, get an Accord or similar - a commuter car.

[TIGERJC]

150K miles on my FD - I have spent very little on maintenance. You just have to know what you are doing whenever you have any high performance car. ANY car that was designed to give performance is going to wear out components faster.
If you are not confident that you can handle it, get an Accord or similar - a commuter car.

i am doing my research on the car, If my mr2 doesnt sell, i might have to wait for a couple months to get my rx7. but i do think the extra time would allow me to do some more research. Jut think about it - mr2 as a daily driver and then to have a rx7 for the track. O i cant wait.

[TIGERJC]

oh... you might want to spend your money on a english class or two.

o im so sorry. I just dont care to use good grammer on forums. :blah: :blah: :blah:

[Five*Star*]

Jut think about it - mr2 as a daily driver and then to have a rx7 for the track. O i cant wait.


You can't wait for what? Bankruptcy? Those are two high maintenence turbo sports cars. Not very wise in the least.

Sorry to sound so harsh, but that would not be logical unless you were a very good mechanic and had a hook-up on parts.

[TIGERJC]

o im getting a beater truck, but the rx7 is on hold b/c im going to keep the mr2.
Thanks for your concern. Im going to keep my mr2 and i will be getting it painted this week.

[Russ]

You can't wait for what? Bankruptcy? Those are two high maintenence turbo sports cars. Not very wise in the least.

Sorry to sound so harsh, but that would not be logical unless you were a very good mechanic and had a hook-up on parts.

O_O, im a tech student and i work at a parts store. ^_^ I got it good.

[YoshiFD3S]

My first rotary was an upgraded Turbo II...had a blown Series 4 motor...got a Series 5 longblock, and swapped parts over from the blown S4... worked great...not bad for a first try rotary-'mechanic'.

Car ran great...quick...TONS of potential...170 miles per tank, though.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/YoshiFD3S/FC3S-DriftMeet02.jpg

I wish I still had it. It'd be over 400hp by now, decked out visually as well.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/YoshiFD3S/MyFD-19.jpg

And here's the FD...

Better gas-mileage...1,000,000,000 more complicated to work on...numerous stupid things that have gone wrong, and it cost 6 times more money just to buy the thing.

In the end:

FC > FD


Unless you make $3,000+ a month, easy. At that income level, you can at least afford to fix something in a month or two, like a rebuild, and afford modifications on a regular basis.

I make half that.

Bad idea.

Do NOT get an FD as your first rotary vehicle.

Like David said before....an FC is best. Not too old, not too new...and not too complicated to work on, whether it's N/A or Turbo II.

My next NICE car will be another Turbo II, absolutely.

Please don't buy an FD.

[TIGERJC]

aight thanks for the wisdom and i think i will go the FC route

[man]

+1 for FC route

[Russ]

+2 for FC route and +1 for a sexy FC and -1000 for getting rid of it

[YoshiFD3S]

+2 for FC route and +1 for a sexy FC and -1000 for getting rid of it

*e-slap*

Believe me, I regret it.

I'm thinking about getting another in the future.

For now, though, with ~90 mile commutes to/from work every day, I don't need nor want to be dumping money into ANYTHING except my 375 miles per tank Honduh.

[BID BAD 13-B]

fd was my first..took 3 years to get it right...plan to spend some cheeze on the dyno if you go extreme under the hood.