Photography advice needed

[-EnVus-]

I use a Canon Xsi 12.2mp What is the best lens for taking photos within 10feet or portraits that give great quality without costing arm/leg ?
I tried 50mm 1.8 but i just didn't like the quality and all i hear is you must find the right lens.

[RandomGuy]

the stock lens or the 50mm would are OK for that IMO.

Instead of changing lenses, try messing with a tripod,lighting, and photoshop/lightroom.

[-EnVus-]

The stock lens gives me grain and distortion id like to get some shots like this....

[quickdodge®]

I don't think changing lenses and cameras and using tripods are going to help. Unless she's superimposed on the lens or something, you're going to have to find that girl and a beach to take pictures like that.

Duh.

[David88vert]

On crop sensors, I like the 85mm f/1.4 and the 200 f/2.
They are expensive.

Alternatives are the 85mm f/1.8 and the 70-200 f/2.8. I prefer the 85mm f/1.8 for what you are asking. Just step a little further back with it.

[Just_CHill]

If you do consider the 85 f/1.4, be sure to look into the Canon 60mm 2.8. You can buy it new for $419 from B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/371176-USA/Canon_0284B002_EF_S_60mm_f_2_8_Macro.html) or you may be able to find it cheaper. If you plan on taking mostly portraits and cars, then you wouldn't need a faster lens IMO.

[-EnVus-]

If you do consider the 85 f/1.4, be sure to look into the Canon 60mm 2.8. You can buy it new for $419 from B&H (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/371176-USA/Canon_0284B002_EF_S_60mm_f_2_8_Macro.html) or you may be able to find it cheaper. If you plan on taking mostly portraits and cars, then you wouldn't need a faster lens IMO.
I have never taken a photo of cars my camera is sowly used for my new baby girl and documenting her as she grows :)
All I need it a good portrait or family photo taking lens with out all the Distortion like i get from the kit lens.

[Just_CHill]

I have never taken a photo of cars my camera is sowly used for my new baby girl and documenting her as she grows :)
All I need it a good portrait or family photo taking lens with out all the Distortion like i get from the kit lens.

Good times! I bought my camera for the same reason. My 60mm does wonders when it comes to my baby girl. But it has worked for many other things as well. Here are some examples:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8425610822_f6046ba824.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8425610822/)
All Aboard (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8425610822/) by pbman13 (http://www.flickr.com/people/just_chill_photog/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8405015368_627be7c24f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8405015368/)
Chris1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8405015368/) by pbman13 (http://www.flickr.com/people/just_chill_photog/), on Flickr

They were edited a little bit with photoshop (clarity, exposure, sharpness) but only because I couldn't get perfect shots. Distortion was not a problem.

Now the next question would be, are you shooting in Manual mode or Automatic? Also, if you haven't already, check out this forum for primarily Canon camera's: Canon Digital Photography Forums - Powered by vBulletin (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php) Tons of information! There are sections for just about anything you can think of when it comes to photography, and most of the people are happy to help out and answer question. You can even post up pictures (if you choose) to be critiqued so that people that has been doing this longer that you and I can give you advice.

[.blank cd]

If you can't get quality out of a canon 50mm 1.8 and an XSi, no amount of lens purchases is gonna fix that. It's time to think about your technique.

[-EnVus-]

Good times! I bought my camera for the same reason. My 60mm does wonders when it comes to my baby girl. But it has worked for many other things as well. Here are some examples:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8425610822_f6046ba824.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8425610822/)
All Aboard (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8425610822/) by pbman13 (http://www.flickr.com/people/just_chill_photog/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8405015368_627be7c24f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8405015368/)
Chris1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/just_chill_photog/8405015368/) by pbman13 (http://www.flickr.com/people/just_chill_photog/), on Flickr

They were edited a little bit with photoshop (clarity, exposure, sharpness) but only because I couldn't get perfect shots. Distortion was not a problem.

Now the next question would be, are you shooting in Manual mode or Automatic? Also, if you haven't already, check out this forum for primarily Canon camera's: Canon Digital Photography Forums - Powered by vBulletin (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php) Tons of information! There are sections for just about anything you can think of when it comes to photography, and most of the people are happy to help out and answer question. You can even post up pictures (if you choose) to be critiqued so that people that has been doing this longer that you and I can give you advice.
I do use a little of both modes those are sme good shots what camera you use ?


If you can't get quality out of a canon 50mm 1.8 and an XSi, no amount of lens purchases is gonna fix that. It's time to think about your technique.
It just was not worth the price now if it was the 50mm 1.4 or 1.2 then id know its me and not lens lol

[Just_CHill]

I do use a little of both modes those are sme good shots what camera you use ?

I just have a T3i with a few lenses. But I kinda agree with what .blank_cd is saying. I asked about the modes that you are shooting with because some of the modes adjusts your setting (ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed, White Balance, etc) that might give you horrible looking shots. If you are not already, I would recommended shooting in manual most of the time and figuring out the settings. That's what I (and many others) had to do and my shots went from garbage to what you see today and I'm still learning new stuff from reading and going on that forum!

[.blank cd]

It just was not worth the price now if it was the 50mm 1.4 or 1.2 then id know its me and not lens lolDont get those. Wayyyy to expensive for most casual shooters. Only a couple stops of light difference you probably won't notice.

Post some examples up and I'll see where you might need some help

[Manny Naber]

Don't mean to thread jack but I just bought a Canon rebel xsi also and I was playing around with some lenses and stuff that I had, and I put this "fisheye" wide lense on the end of the lens and I tried messing with it flipped around on both sides of the fisheye lens.

Now my camera can't focus on anything! The red dot's don't show up, and everything close up and far away is blurry as hell. HELP PLEASE!!! I'm a nubix cube with Camera's/

[.blank cd]

Don't mean to thread jack but I just bought a Canon rebel xsi also and I was playing around with some lenses and stuff that I had, and I put this "fisheye" wide lense on the end of the lens and I tried messing with it flipped around on both sides of the fisheye lens.

Now my camera can't focus on anything! The red dot's don't show up, and everything close up and far away is blurry as hell. HELP PLEASE!!! I'm a nubix cube with Camera's/

You probably touched some settings

[Manny Naber]

You probably touched some settings


Can someone point me in the right direction? Im pretty positive it stayed on auto

EDIT:

I'm an idiot. I had a small micro lense still attached and didn't notice. Carry on

[-EnVus-]

Dont get those. Wayyyy to expensive for most casual shooters. Only a couple stops of light difference you probably won't notice.

Post some examples up and I'll see where you might need some help

here

[.blank cd]

here

Are you using the pop up flash?

[-EnVus-]

Are you using the pop up flash?
Yeah

[.blank cd]

The pop up flash sucks. I don't even know why they put those on DSLRs. Cut your ISO value down and start practicing in natural daylight without the flash. Shoot in aperture priority and cut your exposure value up a smidge. Ambient light and stability will give you a sharper image.

[-EnVus-]

The pop up flash sucks. I don't even know why they put those on DSLRs. Cut your ISO value down and start practicing in natural daylight without the flash. Shoot in aperture priority and cut your exposure value up a smidge. Ambient light and stability will give you a sharper image.
Would the same settings work indoors cause I do more indoor shots then outside and the lighting isnt that great.

[.blank cd]

Would the same settings work indoors cause I do more indoor shots then outside and the lighting isnt that great.

Thats why you get your practice outside, and when theres more light, it'll be easier. Then progress inside, and in darker places. It'll help you learn where you need to be as far as exposure value and shutter speed and aperture value. When you're inside, flip a light on or shoot close to a window

[.blank cd]

Those pictures don't really look that bad, just looks like the pop up flash is blowing them out.

[-EnVus-]

Those pictures don't really look that bad, just looks like the pop up flash is blowing them out.
Thanks and never knew the flash could cause issues with quality much

[.blank cd]

Not all flashes. Just that pop up flash. Lol

[-EnVus-]

Not all flashes. Just that pop up flash. Lol
So what if I got a a external flash ?

[.blank cd]

Those help a lot. Around $200ish to start but good investment. I would practice more without it first though

[.blank cd]

This is a shot I did with a 50 1.8 in a shitty lit room with no flash, wide open

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8462/8018396201_cf3ce1fc07_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8050/8437647084_7dfbbf4529_z.jpg

[Manny Naber]

My camera has the lil flash button but whatever setting I am on it says "this function cant be performed in these settings" the only time I can shoot with no flash is if I put the mode to "no flash" mode. Is it impossible to shoot with no flash in Auto?

[.blank cd]

My camera has the lil flash button but whatever setting I am on it says "this function cant be performed in these settings" the only time I can shoot with no flash is if I put the mode to "no flash" mode. Is it impossible to shoot with no flash in Auto?

I think so. But I don't know canon cameras too well. Most of the time the no flash mode is just auto with no flash. It'll crank up your ISO, open your aperture and slow down your shutter speed. You don't always wanna do that, but sometimes it's better than shooting with the pop up flash.

[.blank cd]

http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336582

[-EnVus-]

Got my new 50mm lens today and playing with setting inside with little light source. I feel proud of myself learning 3 new things tonight.

http://i47.tinypic.com/5jz9tj.jpg

http://i48.tinypic.com/2n8rkau.jpg

[-EnVus-]

This is a shot I did with a 50 1.8 in a shitty lit room with no flash, wide open

What was you referring to when you said Wide open ?

[.blank cd]

What was you referring to when you said Wide open ?

All the way down to 1.8.

[speedminded]

The first problem with your pics is you are using a pop-up flash. If you're going to use a DSLR, pop-up flash, and auto settings you could have saved several hundred and just got a Point & Shoot to get the exact same image.

With that said, if you took a Canon Speedlite 430 and pointed it toward a 8'-10' ceiling or sideways to a wall and put it on "Portrait" setting you could produce a shot that looks magazine quality compared to the pop-up flash. You could also try using a white envelope or anything reflective to bounce the light from the pop-up flash off the ceiling - it will produce a completely different image.

Second problem is the images aren't distorted, they're blurry from being such a low aperture and slow shutter. When the settings are on Auto it will sometimes reduce the shutter to a speed that can't possibly produce crisp images [in order to expose the image properly]. There's nothing wrong however with shooting in Portrait mode when bouncing an on-camera flash (Speedlite) but your best bet is to invest in a strobe, or two, and learn manual settings.

I challenge you to take a shot using the pop-up flash direct then using an envelope reflect the light towards the ceiling and post up both shots. This won't be nearly as effective as a Canon Speedlite pointed toward the ceiling but still far better than direct light...

[-EnVus-]

I am not looking to do photo-shoots for a living just take good clean photos....What is the cheapest but still good flash to use with my Canon Xsi ?

[David88vert]

I am not looking to do photo-shoots for a living just take good clean photos....What is the cheapest but still good flash to use with my Canon Xsi ?

Cheapest decent option: Yongnuo YN-467 II - You want an e-TTL flash.
YONGNUO YN 467 II ETTL Flash Speedlite for Canon 450D 400D 500D 550D 1000D 847977039851 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yongnuo-YN-467-II-ETTL-Flash-Speedlite-for-Canon-450D-400D-500D-550D-1000D/150865748601?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=005&category=48515&cmd=ViewItem)

The step up from the YN-467 II: Yongnuo YN-565
Multi Function YONGNUO YN565EX Flash Speedlight TTL Speedlite GN 58 6947110910406 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Function-YONGNUO-YN565EX-Flash-Speedlight-TTL-Speedlite-GN-58-/300882571720?pt=Digital_Camera_Flashes&hash=item460dffb1c8)

I think that they have a new one out also, that I didn't bother to look for.

Canon's Speedlite 430EX II Flash is more expensive, but it is Canon.

[-EnVus-]

can someone explain ttl and ettl ?

[David88vert]

can someone explain ttl and ettl ?

TTL = Through the lens - for flash exposure metering
e-TTL is Canon's evaluative-TTL

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_flash_system

[-EnVus-]

TTL = Through the lens - for flash exposure metering
e-TTL is Canon's evaluative-TTL

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_flash_system
How does each work and why are they needed if you can dumb it down for me lol :(

[David88vert]

E-TTL is just the naming convention that Canon uses. I-TTL is the name that Nikon uses.
The camera determines the exposure settings and communicates the amount of light that it needs to the flash, and the flash follows the setting - that's a simplified way of stating it.

[-EnVus-]

I am using Manual mode more daily now and its a bitch trying to use the highest Aperature and fastest shutter without losing to much light. I have learned as of yesterday it pretty much sucks to use ISO cause it distorts images easy. I am getting a Speedlite for fathers day and have made a homemade flash bounce Image of it below lol
I hope the speedlite will help me more when using the current settings with this 50mm lens. I mainly take photos of my pets or my baby girl and all are very active so i have to keep my shutter at its highest.



http://i44.tinypic.com/30hpwcg.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2usvbt1.jpg

[.blank cd]

Use a lower aperture. Just remember when you get lower than 1/30 on the shutter speed you'll start getting camera shake.

Try playing around in aperture or shutter priority mode for a while (Ax or Tx on Canon)

[David88vert]

Use a lower aperture. Just remember when you get lower than 1/30 on the shutter speed you'll start getting camera shake.

Try playing around in aperture or shutter priority mode for a while (Ax or Tx on Canon)

To expand on what blank said:
Use a larger (lower number aperture) when you do not have to have a deep depth of field - that will be plenty of shots. Example: If you go from f/8 down to f/4, you gain 2 stops of light, and that will allow you to drop the ISO 2 stops lower.
Use a slower shutter speed when possible - for still objects, use the old saying that you should take your lens mm and use it as the shutter speed. Example: with a 50mm lens, go with 1/50 to start. You should be able to handhold using this as a guideline. If you have VR or IS on your lens, you can gain at least one stop slower of shutter speed, and probably 2 stops slower.
VR and IS only works on still objects though - not on moving ones. On moving objects, I like to keep at least 1/125 shutter speed.


I am with blank - use aperture and shutter more than manual. The camera is a computer, and can do some of the calculation for you. Use that to your advantage.

On ISO - I like to shoot as low of an ISO as I can. The reason why is dynamic range and noise. The higher that you take the ISO, the less dynamic range that you have, and the more noise that you get. Some cameras do better than others though. My D600 is quite happy at ISO 3200, and still has good dynamic range and low noise, while the old D70 suffered at 1600.
Your XSI looks to have just under 11 stops of dynamic range, and it falls off quickly over ISO800. That means that you have to look at the dynamic range of each shot closely and determine how much shadow and highlight information that you are willing to use when you turn up the ISO. Here is a chart that shows it for your camera:
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Camera-Sensor-Database/Canon/EOS-450D
Click on Measurements, and then on Dynamic Range.