CDangerfield
05-01-2012, 11:21 PM
I found this on Honda Tech and thought it deserved a sticky! :D
[/SIZE]
How to: Turbocharge a Honda
Objective:
I'm going to go through, step by step, procedures of what you must to do completely turbocharge your Honda. This How-to would work for all Honda/acura setups, just switch my motor setup with yours.
Pre Installation Information:
Parts Needed:
Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals
Exhaust Manifold: Either log/cast/equal length. Make sure it was made for your turbo (t3, 4bolt, 5bolt, dsm, etc.)
Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe
Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo
Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is more bling bling :D as well as better cooling
Blow off valve: This is acutally an opional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like
Fuel Manegment: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programable chiped ecu or standalone device, but running a AFC hack controller can be used as well
Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external
Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application
Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor
Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application
Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two ic pipes together as well as t-bolts (or screw clamps which i dont recommend) to tighten those couplers down
Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. ss lines are recommend
Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommened to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources
Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommened
Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too
Reference picture:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/turbokit.jpg
Tools Needed:
Extensive Socket/Rachet Set: Metric sizes. the more variety, the less likely you wont have the socekt you need for the job
Extensive wrech set: Metric sizes. Racheting wrenchs are gonna work great for tight places
Floor jack w/ jack stands: you gotta get that car up for some things
Screw driver set: again, the more variety, the better
Dremel: You may need to cut or sand some things down, so a dremel will be perfect for the job
Wire strippers: Your gonna do some spliceing and wire cutting somewhere
Multi-meter: Not required, but it's handy to have around to troubleshoot and test wires
PbBlaster: This is a rust-breaking spray in a can, extremely useful for getting old rusted bolts off
Estimated Time and Skill level:
I Would give your self a week or more to finish this install properly depend on how much free time you have. It will always be better to start early and have more time for cushion if unplaned things come up then to have jsut enough time planed and if something bad comes up your screwed (happened to me)
Skill level: I'd say a full turbo install would have to be from a 7-9 difficutly in the import world depending on your skill level. Building a motor being a 10.
Installation Proceduces:
Step 1: Remove all N/A parts from your motor
Take a look into your engine bay and find where your Intake and header are. Since you will be replacing both with new parts, these are not needed anymore.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/enginebay.jpg
Remove Intake by unscrewing two screw clamps holding silicone coupler at the throttle body, and a bolt down near the air filter where intake is holding onto chassis.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003.jpg
Your gonna have to get under the car for the rest of this project, so it's a good idea to jack the car up and make sure to use two jack stands for safety
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_004.jpg
Remove 9 12mm nuts that hold header to engine head studs
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/headerstuds.jpg
Remove three bolts that hold cat and exhaust together. After you un bolts these three bolts, there should be two bolts that are holding header in place by a bracket hanging from the back of the block. Remove those two bolts as well and header should be free to drop out of place.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0004_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_003.jpg
Step 2: Assemble and Install manifold/turbo/dp
Whether or not your bought your manifold and dp brand new or custom made it, I suggest assembling just to test fit before you try installing into the car. Check for turbo placement, and dp route.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_005.jpg
First, you want to apply some Pbblaster to the o2 sensor on your n/a header, this way removal is easy. Once you get it out, screw it onto the new Dp o2 bung.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0010.jpg
Slid the manifold on to the engine block exhaust studs
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0028_002.jpg
Next, if needed, clock your turbo to fit your setup correctly. TO clock your turbo means to rotate the compressor/turbine houseings relative to the center housing. It's easy to do, you just need to loosen the bolts that hold the housings down tight, and rotate. Tighten back up when it's in the right spot.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/clockturbo.jpg
You now going to want to hand tight bolt the turbo to the manifold so you can test fit on the block. In this case our turbo was hitting some of the web casting on the engine block. this is actually quite common on turbo Honda's. Dont worry, the web casting isnt too hard to remove and is not that important to the structure of the block. To cut the casting, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel attatchment.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/cutthat.jpg
After cutting the corner off with a dremel and a cut off wheel
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0027.jpg
If manifold now sits flush with head of engine, and turbo is clocked to fit your setup correctly.. It's time to tighten down the head studs to hold manifold securely. Tighten turbo-->manifold bolts as well.
Step 3: Mark and Remove Oil Pan and install oil drain line
Get under the car and take a look at your oil pan while you have your manifold/turbo/dp on for fitment. Your gonna need to grab your oil drain line that was supplied in your oil line kit that you purchased for this step.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilkit.jpg
Take one end of the ss line and line it up with the oildrain hole on the turbo.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/turbodrain.jpg
Take the other end, and find a way to make that line reach the designated spot on the oil pan. The spot on the oil pan can most likely be anywhere in the "deep" section of the oil pan, located at the highest point of the "deep" part. Run the line the best you can without touhcing the dp or making any sharp turns or positive slope. The oil line is important to have correct so your turbo gets effective oil cooling and lubricant for the seals. Mark where oil drain hose lines up on the oil pan with a screwdriver or something sharp so it leaves a good clear mark.
Imagine this pan still on the engine, that circle marked in yellow is the general location to where you want the oil drain line to run.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilpantap.jpg
if there is no way to run the line without pitching, you can purchase straight/45 degree/90 degree fittings so that the line does not have a kink in it. Also, if the oil is touhcing the dp, i highly suggest you look into purchaseing some kind of heat wrap so that your oil line doesnt wear over time, as well as your "inner" rubber line doesnt melt.
It's got about 26 or so bolts/nuts that are holding it on.First things first, you must drain the oil from your engine so taking off the pan wont be the messiest thing you've ever done! 17mm socket to the drain plug will do the trick.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0019.jpg
Once you get all the oil out, your ready to start the removal process. You first need to take off the Flywheel cover plate which is located where your transmission meets your engine block next to the oil pan.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/flywheelcover.jpg
After you remove that plate, 4 more bolts/nuts holding on the oil pan will be exposed. Now, you just need to remove all exsisting bolts/nuts and the oil pan should drop off freely. Make sure to keep track of oil pan gasket cus you'll need to make sure to put that on when you re-install.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0024.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0025.jpg
Now it's time to either weld the oil drain bung or drill a hole for the "weld-less" oil drain that you have. Either way, it's the same concept, make a hole for oil!
After the hole is made, use your kit's instructions on how to install the fittings you have. Make sure to use any given rubber washers or seals so that there are no leaks. Re-install oil pan in reverse of removal.
Find the Oil drain flange and oil drain gasket from your kit. Bolt the flange with the gasket between the flange and the turbo securely.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilkit2.jpg
Connect the oil line from the turbo to the oil pan fitting. Make you tighten everything down so there are no leaks! Should look something like this
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0038_002.jpg
Step 4: Install Turbo oil Feed Line
Go underneath your car, as if you were going to remove the oil filter. Just left of the oil filter, you will see a black rubber plug that is running into the back of the block. This is your stock oil pressure sensor. Give it a little tug and it should snap off with alittle force.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0004_002.jpg
once the plug is unconnected, you can take a socket and rachet to remove the stock pressure sensor. It's going to be big, and a deep socket as well.. something like 21mm i believe. This is your stock sensor removed and your new "oil- T" you got in your kit.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilfeed.jpg
With your oil T, you should have recieved a small black screw/plug to plug up a hole on the T if you do not have a need for the 2nd hole. You must plug this whole if you dont have anything to go there such as a aftermarket oil pressure sensor. In my case, i dont have one yet, so i pluged it up using a hex tool to screw it in.
Gently screw the Oil T into the stock oil pressure sensor hole on the block. Using a 17mm i believe it was socket, tight it down, but not extremely tight because it could crack the block if it goes in too hard. be careful. Once it's in firmly, screw the Stock sensor into the back hole of the oil T. tighten that down firmly, but not TOO tight again.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008_002.jpg
Now it's time to get out your oil feed line that was found in your oil kit. It should be the 3ft or so, skinny ss line. take one side and run it down to the oil T you just installed, and thread it into the last hole that is open. Again firmly but be careful.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_002.jpg
It's your choice on how you run the line to get to your turbo's feed fitting. I choose to run the line through my intake manifold runners and over my vavle cover to my turbo. Thread it into the turbo and firmly tighten it down. Now your feed line is complete!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0014_002.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0012.jpg
Step 4: Install Front Mount Intercooler
This step is really gonna vary depending on what intercooler you have choosen for your turbo kit. If you got the Johnny Racecar fmic, then all your gonna have to do is two holes and mount it up.
In my case, i have a larger Spearco which involves some modification of the bumper support. First thing your gonna have to do is take off the front bumper which isnt hard at all. there are 5 bolts up on the top of the radiator support which you need to remove. Their are two bolts(one on each side) within the fender wheel that hold bumper to fenders. And lastly, their are about 8 screws that hold all the splash gaurds to the bumper which you need to unscrew and pop out.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003_002.jpg
To do this modification, your gonna need some kind of metal cutting tool. I choose a dremel with a cut-off wheel because that's all i had in my garage. If your gonna use a dremel expect this too take 2-3hrs... I've heard of ppl using special metal recipricating saws and also hi-powered "cut-off wheels".
If you have one of those, it'd speed up the process probably, but surely aren't required. You're gonna wanna ware eye protection for this, cus little metal bits go flying everywhere!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007.jpg
I first did a test fit to see what i really needed to have cut off my bumper support to allow fitment of the fmic. I held the fmic with a jack and kinda "eye-d" what woudl be needed to cut off, marked it with a sharpie. The original test fit with bumper and no cutting showed me that my fmic was about two inches lower, so i went two inches up into the bumper support
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_004.jpg
Now that you marked it, you just gotta start cutting away. I found it easiest to start real softly untill you got a complete hole through a small section of the metal. Once you can fit the whole cut-off wheel through and start cutting through the metal from the side, it starts to get alittle easier. I took these pics by hitting the timer button, running over to dremel, and started cutting lol. And yes, i am taking a pic with one hands and using a dremel cut-off wheel to cut my front bumper support at the same time
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0009_002.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0013_002.jpg
Alittle fun with the dremel lol
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_005.jpg
once you get all the way through all the metal, it should look something like this....
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0014.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0038.jpg
You now can mark where the holes on the ic mounts are in relation to the bumper support, then drill those marks out. Go buy some bolts/nuts/washers from homedepot to put in those newly drilled holes. sry no pics of it offically mounted.
Step 5: Modify Bumper to fit FMIC
Now that you have your fmic you can test fit your bumper again. It's not gonna fit without alittle cutting of the black grill. In my situation, it was easier to just cut the whole front grill out instead of trying to just cut some and save it. I aslo had to cut some of the side grill things out to fit my piping. Here's what it looks like when you begin....
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003_003.jpg
Again you can use a dremel with a cut-off wheel adaptor to cut this off which works pretty good but you have to go slow cus it tends to melt from heat. You can also use a hack saw but dremel is more accurate. Once you got it all cut out, it should look like this.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006.jpg
here is the one-half of the side grill i had to cut out.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007_002.jpg
once you got it cut out, try it out and see how it looks! teh win!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008.jpg
With some of the piping on it had to cut some of the splash gaurd. this was not hard at all, just line it up, eye it where you need to cut, and use the dremel again to cut what is needed to be removed. should look something like this...
before:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011.jpg
after:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0012_003.jpg
If it fits without hitting the fmic and all holes line up, then bolt it back up. 5 botls up top, both fender screws, and ~6 splash gaurd bolts on the bottom.
[/SIZE]
How to: Turbocharge a Honda
Objective:
I'm going to go through, step by step, procedures of what you must to do completely turbocharge your Honda. This How-to would work for all Honda/acura setups, just switch my motor setup with yours.
Pre Installation Information:
Parts Needed:
Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals
Exhaust Manifold: Either log/cast/equal length. Make sure it was made for your turbo (t3, 4bolt, 5bolt, dsm, etc.)
Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe
Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo
Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is more bling bling :D as well as better cooling
Blow off valve: This is acutally an opional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like
Fuel Manegment: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programable chiped ecu or standalone device, but running a AFC hack controller can be used as well
Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external
Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application
Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor
Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application
Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two ic pipes together as well as t-bolts (or screw clamps which i dont recommend) to tighten those couplers down
Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. ss lines are recommend
Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommened to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources
Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommened
Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too
Reference picture:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/turbokit.jpg
Tools Needed:
Extensive Socket/Rachet Set: Metric sizes. the more variety, the less likely you wont have the socekt you need for the job
Extensive wrech set: Metric sizes. Racheting wrenchs are gonna work great for tight places
Floor jack w/ jack stands: you gotta get that car up for some things
Screw driver set: again, the more variety, the better
Dremel: You may need to cut or sand some things down, so a dremel will be perfect for the job
Wire strippers: Your gonna do some spliceing and wire cutting somewhere
Multi-meter: Not required, but it's handy to have around to troubleshoot and test wires
PbBlaster: This is a rust-breaking spray in a can, extremely useful for getting old rusted bolts off
Estimated Time and Skill level:
I Would give your self a week or more to finish this install properly depend on how much free time you have. It will always be better to start early and have more time for cushion if unplaned things come up then to have jsut enough time planed and if something bad comes up your screwed (happened to me)
Skill level: I'd say a full turbo install would have to be from a 7-9 difficutly in the import world depending on your skill level. Building a motor being a 10.
Installation Proceduces:
Step 1: Remove all N/A parts from your motor
Take a look into your engine bay and find where your Intake and header are. Since you will be replacing both with new parts, these are not needed anymore.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/enginebay.jpg
Remove Intake by unscrewing two screw clamps holding silicone coupler at the throttle body, and a bolt down near the air filter where intake is holding onto chassis.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003.jpg
Your gonna have to get under the car for the rest of this project, so it's a good idea to jack the car up and make sure to use two jack stands for safety
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_004.jpg
Remove 9 12mm nuts that hold header to engine head studs
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/headerstuds.jpg
Remove three bolts that hold cat and exhaust together. After you un bolts these three bolts, there should be two bolts that are holding header in place by a bracket hanging from the back of the block. Remove those two bolts as well and header should be free to drop out of place.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0004_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_003.jpg
Step 2: Assemble and Install manifold/turbo/dp
Whether or not your bought your manifold and dp brand new or custom made it, I suggest assembling just to test fit before you try installing into the car. Check for turbo placement, and dp route.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_005.jpg
First, you want to apply some Pbblaster to the o2 sensor on your n/a header, this way removal is easy. Once you get it out, screw it onto the new Dp o2 bung.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0010.jpg
Slid the manifold on to the engine block exhaust studs
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0028_002.jpg
Next, if needed, clock your turbo to fit your setup correctly. TO clock your turbo means to rotate the compressor/turbine houseings relative to the center housing. It's easy to do, you just need to loosen the bolts that hold the housings down tight, and rotate. Tighten back up when it's in the right spot.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/clockturbo.jpg
You now going to want to hand tight bolt the turbo to the manifold so you can test fit on the block. In this case our turbo was hitting some of the web casting on the engine block. this is actually quite common on turbo Honda's. Dont worry, the web casting isnt too hard to remove and is not that important to the structure of the block. To cut the casting, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel attatchment.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007_003.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/cutthat.jpg
After cutting the corner off with a dremel and a cut off wheel
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0027.jpg
If manifold now sits flush with head of engine, and turbo is clocked to fit your setup correctly.. It's time to tighten down the head studs to hold manifold securely. Tighten turbo-->manifold bolts as well.
Step 3: Mark and Remove Oil Pan and install oil drain line
Get under the car and take a look at your oil pan while you have your manifold/turbo/dp on for fitment. Your gonna need to grab your oil drain line that was supplied in your oil line kit that you purchased for this step.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilkit.jpg
Take one end of the ss line and line it up with the oildrain hole on the turbo.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/turbodrain.jpg
Take the other end, and find a way to make that line reach the designated spot on the oil pan. The spot on the oil pan can most likely be anywhere in the "deep" section of the oil pan, located at the highest point of the "deep" part. Run the line the best you can without touhcing the dp or making any sharp turns or positive slope. The oil line is important to have correct so your turbo gets effective oil cooling and lubricant for the seals. Mark where oil drain hose lines up on the oil pan with a screwdriver or something sharp so it leaves a good clear mark.
Imagine this pan still on the engine, that circle marked in yellow is the general location to where you want the oil drain line to run.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilpantap.jpg
if there is no way to run the line without pitching, you can purchase straight/45 degree/90 degree fittings so that the line does not have a kink in it. Also, if the oil is touhcing the dp, i highly suggest you look into purchaseing some kind of heat wrap so that your oil line doesnt wear over time, as well as your "inner" rubber line doesnt melt.
It's got about 26 or so bolts/nuts that are holding it on.First things first, you must drain the oil from your engine so taking off the pan wont be the messiest thing you've ever done! 17mm socket to the drain plug will do the trick.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0019.jpg
Once you get all the oil out, your ready to start the removal process. You first need to take off the Flywheel cover plate which is located where your transmission meets your engine block next to the oil pan.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/flywheelcover.jpg
After you remove that plate, 4 more bolts/nuts holding on the oil pan will be exposed. Now, you just need to remove all exsisting bolts/nuts and the oil pan should drop off freely. Make sure to keep track of oil pan gasket cus you'll need to make sure to put that on when you re-install.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0024.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0025.jpg
Now it's time to either weld the oil drain bung or drill a hole for the "weld-less" oil drain that you have. Either way, it's the same concept, make a hole for oil!
After the hole is made, use your kit's instructions on how to install the fittings you have. Make sure to use any given rubber washers or seals so that there are no leaks. Re-install oil pan in reverse of removal.
Find the Oil drain flange and oil drain gasket from your kit. Bolt the flange with the gasket between the flange and the turbo securely.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilkit2.jpg
Connect the oil line from the turbo to the oil pan fitting. Make you tighten everything down so there are no leaks! Should look something like this
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0038_002.jpg
Step 4: Install Turbo oil Feed Line
Go underneath your car, as if you were going to remove the oil filter. Just left of the oil filter, you will see a black rubber plug that is running into the back of the block. This is your stock oil pressure sensor. Give it a little tug and it should snap off with alittle force.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0004_002.jpg
once the plug is unconnected, you can take a socket and rachet to remove the stock pressure sensor. It's going to be big, and a deep socket as well.. something like 21mm i believe. This is your stock sensor removed and your new "oil- T" you got in your kit.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/oilfeed.jpg
With your oil T, you should have recieved a small black screw/plug to plug up a hole on the T if you do not have a need for the 2nd hole. You must plug this whole if you dont have anything to go there such as a aftermarket oil pressure sensor. In my case, i dont have one yet, so i pluged it up using a hex tool to screw it in.
Gently screw the Oil T into the stock oil pressure sensor hole on the block. Using a 17mm i believe it was socket, tight it down, but not extremely tight because it could crack the block if it goes in too hard. be careful. Once it's in firmly, screw the Stock sensor into the back hole of the oil T. tighten that down firmly, but not TOO tight again.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008_002.jpg
Now it's time to get out your oil feed line that was found in your oil kit. It should be the 3ft or so, skinny ss line. take one side and run it down to the oil T you just installed, and thread it into the last hole that is open. Again firmly but be careful.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_002.jpg
It's your choice on how you run the line to get to your turbo's feed fitting. I choose to run the line through my intake manifold runners and over my vavle cover to my turbo. Thread it into the turbo and firmly tighten it down. Now your feed line is complete!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0014_002.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0012.jpg
Step 4: Install Front Mount Intercooler
This step is really gonna vary depending on what intercooler you have choosen for your turbo kit. If you got the Johnny Racecar fmic, then all your gonna have to do is two holes and mount it up.
In my case, i have a larger Spearco which involves some modification of the bumper support. First thing your gonna have to do is take off the front bumper which isnt hard at all. there are 5 bolts up on the top of the radiator support which you need to remove. Their are two bolts(one on each side) within the fender wheel that hold bumper to fenders. And lastly, their are about 8 screws that hold all the splash gaurds to the bumper which you need to unscrew and pop out.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003_002.jpg
To do this modification, your gonna need some kind of metal cutting tool. I choose a dremel with a cut-off wheel because that's all i had in my garage. If your gonna use a dremel expect this too take 2-3hrs... I've heard of ppl using special metal recipricating saws and also hi-powered "cut-off wheels".
If you have one of those, it'd speed up the process probably, but surely aren't required. You're gonna wanna ware eye protection for this, cus little metal bits go flying everywhere!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007.jpg
I first did a test fit to see what i really needed to have cut off my bumper support to allow fitment of the fmic. I held the fmic with a jack and kinda "eye-d" what woudl be needed to cut off, marked it with a sharpie. The original test fit with bumper and no cutting showed me that my fmic was about two inches lower, so i went two inches up into the bumper support
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006_004.jpg
Now that you marked it, you just gotta start cutting away. I found it easiest to start real softly untill you got a complete hole through a small section of the metal. Once you can fit the whole cut-off wheel through and start cutting through the metal from the side, it starts to get alittle easier. I took these pics by hitting the timer button, running over to dremel, and started cutting lol. And yes, i am taking a pic with one hands and using a dremel cut-off wheel to cut my front bumper support at the same time
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0009_002.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0013_002.jpg
Alittle fun with the dremel lol
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011_005.jpg
once you get all the way through all the metal, it should look something like this....
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0014.jpg
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0038.jpg
You now can mark where the holes on the ic mounts are in relation to the bumper support, then drill those marks out. Go buy some bolts/nuts/washers from homedepot to put in those newly drilled holes. sry no pics of it offically mounted.
Step 5: Modify Bumper to fit FMIC
Now that you have your fmic you can test fit your bumper again. It's not gonna fit without alittle cutting of the black grill. In my situation, it was easier to just cut the whole front grill out instead of trying to just cut some and save it. I aslo had to cut some of the side grill things out to fit my piping. Here's what it looks like when you begin....
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0003_003.jpg
Again you can use a dremel with a cut-off wheel adaptor to cut this off which works pretty good but you have to go slow cus it tends to melt from heat. You can also use a hack saw but dremel is more accurate. Once you got it all cut out, it should look like this.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0006.jpg
here is the one-half of the side grill i had to cut out.
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0007_002.jpg
once you got it cut out, try it out and see how it looks! teh win!
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0008.jpg
With some of the piping on it had to cut some of the splash gaurd. this was not hard at all, just line it up, eye it where you need to cut, and use the dremel again to cut what is needed to be removed. should look something like this...
before:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0011.jpg
after:
http://rosswerkz.com/images/turbo_car_files/DSCF0012_003.jpg
If it fits without hitting the fmic and all holes line up, then bolt it back up. 5 botls up top, both fender screws, and ~6 splash gaurd bolts on the bottom.