View Full Version : Power Mods LS-Vtec turbo help
Like above, i plan on going LS-v turbo..im very big on d series, so not very smart on b. Already have headstuds. What pistons/rods are ideal and on compression i was looking at 9:5-10:1..Any do's and donts would be great..
EmminoDaGreat
01-23-2012, 09:02 PM
10:1 je pistons, eagle rods etc will make you decent power for good price. oem headgasket or just buy a ge ls/v kit.
Im looking for 350ish, ive got a ls oem headgasket..That is the one to use, correct? Head is already tapped and plugged. Know anyone selling either and do i buy for ls or b16?
And is it bad to bore a ls block just a little? ive heard not to, if i did any at all id do it to 81.5
HeyItsSkeero
01-25-2012, 04:39 PM
Make sure you get ARP main studs, and ARP rod bolts. If you plan on revving high. You need the LSV dowels pins also, and is it JUST an LS hg? Bc the dowel pins are a little bigger than standard holes I do believe. Best bet is to get the GE LSV kit, don't get the Inline 4 one.. The dowel pins didn't fit properly in my head or block...
EmminoDaGreat
01-25-2012, 04:49 PM
You dont need main studs, For simple 350 whp, and if you put them in there you have to make sure you line hone it. Also you can use the LS headgasket, just have to drill the holes for the dowels bigger. Also You can bore an ls block no problem. As stated above use the GE kit, it comes with the dowels you need and lines etc.
Okay..do I buy ls or Vtec pistons/rods
EmminoDaGreat
01-25-2012, 06:49 PM
rods need to match crank, pistons need to be for ls/vtec to be accurate as far as compression. Just make sure the bore size is what you want.
HeyItsSkeero
01-26-2012, 01:18 AM
You dont need main studs, For simple 350 whp, and if you put them in there you have to make sure you line hone it. Also you can use the LS headgasket, just have to drill the holes for the dowels bigger. Also You can bore an ls block no problem. As stated above use the GE kit, it comes with the dowels you need and lines etc.
Idk I just look at it as a safety thing. But that's just me. I think the only reason I got them is b/c I have a GSR girdle in mine.
Do you agree on the rod bolts though? I know that's a big thing when you want to rev high on LSV.
EmminoDaGreat
01-26-2012, 01:34 AM
hes getting aftermarket rods, no worrys.
Yeah, will have rod bolts..I think ill prob just keep it for sale until it goes. I think ill stick with D's.
SPOOLIN
01-28-2012, 08:59 AM
main studs are just about worthless unless you are pushing the envelope over 1000
HeyItsSkeero
01-30-2012, 06:47 PM
They're not expensive so why not upgrade from your stock ones that have xxx amount of miles on it? Idk :x
SPOOLIN
01-30-2012, 08:12 PM
Ill put it this way. I did upgrade to them, and then i took them out after a season and went back to bolts.
go buy some new bolts?
EmminoDaGreat
01-30-2012, 10:17 PM
They're not expensive so why not upgrade from your stock ones that have xxx amount of miles on it? Idk :x
Because your average person will just toss the main studs in without line honing it, causing potential catastrophic failure.
SPOOLIN
01-30-2012, 11:11 PM
hell even with a line hone they were a PITA, and the bearings still got the shit kicked out of them.
and you cant measure the damn stretch on them when torquing them
I stretch torque all of my rod bolts now, kinda shocking the results
Can you explain "stretch torque" for dummy's lol
SPOOLIN
02-01-2012, 08:41 AM
torquing them using a stretch gauge, you get maximum clamping force if the bolt is tightened until it stretches so many thousandths. The torque spec(ie 50 ft lbs) is always a ball park and shouldn't be used in a MAXIMUM hp application.
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