Fiberglass help

[BarnDog296]

Alright, now that I know that I can stay on track with my Excelon build, I need to figure out the installation. I already have a wiring chart for it, I just need help with the fiberglassing. I already have the idea of what I want it to look like in my head, I just need someone who is good at fiberglass to help me out a little. I dont want to spend a grand at a shop, so im not looking for shops in the area, just for another hand. I am only missing one part (1 amp) I currently have:

2- 10"
2- 12"
2- 6"x9"
2- 6.5"
1- 4-way amp
1- 2-way amp (need 1 more)

I know how to wire them all together, that is the easy part... I really need someone for the fiberglassing, any help would be appreciated. Does anyone know someone?

IM me @ BarnDog296 on Yahoo, MSN, and AOL IM

OH - please dont leave me sites, I am a good googler, and ive found ton of them, but experience is always better than reading.

[YokotaS13]

eh i can do it, but your wayyy too far

[rotorho]

i could do it but im wayy too far

[chuck]

you wanting to fiberglass everything or just the 4 subs?? what kinda car you working with?? i'd be up for lending a hand...

[BarnDog296]

I want to setup a fiberglass build for everything, I actually have it all mapped out, both the wire diagram and what it will actually look like. Its a Nissan 240SX S13 hatch, it can fit alot of equipment, but I think I have some good ideas on what I want, but could use the help even with that part of it for anyone who has any good ideas, drop me a line on Yahoo or AIM @ BarnDog296

[.....]

i could do it but im wayy too far


no you couldn't! you like to make abortions out f fiberglass......

[redgst97]

why 10s AND 12s???
Not the best idea in the world, but its your car.

1K at a shop for fiberglass...thats honestly not that much. I can easily see $400 in materials alone in what you want...thats Home Depot or Lowes cost. That would probably get you to primer. That does NOT include any labor.

You planning on having this painted or wrapped? if wrapped, then in vinyl, some material, or carpet? Each of these answers could possibly change the price. Carpet is cheap and requires less prep work. Vinyl is fairly inexpensive, but requires a good amount of prep work. Paint is the most expensive, and requires the most prep work, so that adds even more time/money to the project.

John

[BarnDog296]

The thing isnt the expense really, its that i want to do all of my own work, the only thing i let other people help me on, are things like welding and parts that if they break, i could get killed, like suspension, and brakes. I HATE it when ppl are like "so, who did your system" and they say "oh, such and such did it"
I cant stand it, ANYONE can have other people do their work and pay for it. But the real challenge is doing it yourself, so that people say "you really did all of that!??!!?"

ANYONE can have someone else design their car, its just money. but it feels so much better when its your design

[YokotaS13]

in all honestly, he could build hte box and glass for a little under 150 in materials
then 50 in the sandpaper it would take to get it smoothe (the way i do it) then sandable filler/primer, then smoothe down for paint

[b@d @pple]

HAH YOU STUPID LITTLE DROIDS!

[.....]

HAH YOU STUPID LITTLE DROIDS!



lol........

[Allstar3.8T]

Sometimes its better to say someone else did it AND it pounds, versus I did it, and its not real loud...or not at full potential. Fiberglass enclosures are not easy to get 100% sealed up like alot of people think. The materials are very expensive, and most of the better resins are dealer only.
If you dont have a trained/experienced friend, maybe you should consider paying someone who can do it, and doesnt mind you hangin out and learnin a lil something. Thats how I learned many moons ago.

[BarnDog296]

I totally understand what your saying, but im working my ass off on this thing. I promise im not just some punk that is trying to just be cheap. I understand about what the dealer gets, that is why I am actually going to build it a little differently. I have been reading like MAD on how to do fiberglass and am going to do a few stupid little projects to get the idea down before I do anything. Im a perfectionist like that, when I learn something, I REALLY go into learning it.

The ONLY question I have from what people have said is why not the 2-10" and 2-12" subs?

If it really is a bad idea, its cool, im actually building their enclosures so that I can replace the 2-10" with 2-12" in the future. All I will have to do is cut a larger hole. I am actually building everything for 12s

[BanginJimmy]

well if you build for 12's now, your airspace is going to be off for the 10's.

You dont use multiple size or multiple model subs cause not every sub plays the same frequency the same way. Even with the same drivers 1 10 and 1 12 they will play say a 50hz signal a differnent way causing cancellation. The cancellation can cause your system to sound horrible or the cancelling signals will cause it to not be as loud.

[BarnDog296]

What about different Amps? I am actually using a different amp for each set. I know the sound will be off for the 10s box for now, but i want to go to all kenwood 12s. I was thinking about putting insulation in the 10s box for now to balance it out.

As far as the cancellation, what if i placed them facing different angles? for instance I could face the 10s toward the front of the car and the 12s into the hatch (I get the best sound when my current 10s are in the hatch area)

[CRAZY_JAY]

As far as the cancellation, what if i placed them facing different angles? for instance I could face the 10s toward the front of the car and the 12s into the hatch (I get the best sound when my current 10s are in the hatch area)

Another bad idea. The bass from the 12's will reach you at a different time than the 10,s because they will be traveling different distances, unless you are planning on some type of time correction :confused:
Do you have all 4 subs hooked up now?

[BarnDog296]

no, i dont have ANYTHING hooked up now. I tore it all apart to install sound deadening. I install B-Quiet EVERYWHERE and im looking into a good sound dampener now, then carpeting (but the carpeting depends on the system I am installing.)

The thing is that the subs that are in the hatch arent going to get the best "sound" they will only give a good "thump". (the current system leaves just enough area for the box to fit within the hatch confines and kinda seals it off, with enough room on the sides for air flow. I cant hear them at all as far as sound quality goes, i have them setup to only pick up bass levels and no real low end sound.
IE - they dont give ANY musical sound except a punch.

I have 2 6x9 and a 2 6.5 for the sound quality - and they give great quality sound

[BanginJimmy]

you will still have the cancellation cause the waves will be different. Putting the 10's in the cab is also a bad idea. I dont understand all the physics about it but basicly the soundwaves will move both forward and back. Again this will cause the signals to cancel themselves out. Also adding polyfil(insullation) will cause the 10's tto 'see' an even larger box. This 'larger box' will cause the 10's be become more boomy and less crisp.

[redgst97]

you will still have the cancellation cause the waves will be different. Putting the 10's in the cab is also a bad idea. I dont understand all the physics about it but basicly the soundwaves will move both forward and back. Again this will cause the signals to cancel themselves out. Also adding polyfil(insullation) will cause the 10's tto 'see' an even larger box. This 'larger box' will cause the 10's be become more boomy and less crisp.


The box of the woofer will help with the cancellation. The box prevents the front wave (outside the box) from getting cancelled from the rear wave (inside the box).

Just because a woofers "sees" a larger box, does not mean it will sound "more boomy and less crisp". That has EVERYTHING to do with the specifications of the woofer.... take an older Dynaudio woofer, for example. I have heard it in an Accord 2-door in a 3.5 cubic foot box getting over 1,000 watts (from a REAL amplifier) and that was for a SQ competition set-up. Sam Goh came in 2nd at the IASCA finals in 97 or 98 with the set-up I just explained. With todays woofers 3.5 cubic feet for a single 12" woofer is WAAAYY too large...it depends on more factors than you are letting onto. Granted the above might be the exception, but still....

However, I am in total agreement with you. DONT mix woofer sizes. If you really want 4 woofers, then go all 10s or all 12s. In my car, I have 5 10s. 1 for sound quality, and the other 4 for times when I want to get loud (nearly 150db). The other 4 are in a seperate enclosure from the single, and they are powered with a seperate amplifier (on a switch)...

Now, if you wanted the 12s for bass, and the 10s for midbass, then that is a WAY different story. I seriously doubt you are thinking of that though...you would be asking how to install 10s in your doors or kickpanels if you were.

John

[rollininstyle2004]

Now, if you wanted the 12s for bass, and the 10s for midbass, then that is a WAY different story. I seriously doubt you are thinking of that though...you would be asking how to install 10s in your doors or kickpanels if you were.

John
That would assume he has a driver efficient enough to play the midbass frequencies w/o distortion...

I agree with everyone else stick with 1 size :goodjob:

[BanginJimmy]

he doesnt mention model numbers for the subs so I am going on a general basis. 10's require a smaller box and 12's. Then adding polyfill to the box will make the 10's see a larger box. A larger box will cause most mainstream subs to become more boomy. Granted I have see 10's that like a large box, but I doubt this is the case.

[BarnDog296]

all of this has been very helpful, im going to build in a spot for the 2 12s instead and then install them when I have 4, so instead of doing a half job, i just wait till I get the others