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View Full Version : 1996 accord f22b swap cranks but won't start



Captain-Obvious™
03-03-2011, 09:55 AM
I'm trying to get my buddy's accord running.

I swapped the oil pump for the CPS and swapped the dizzy and the intake manifolds all from the USDM f22.

Got everthing put in and hooked up. The car turns over, but it won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key, and when I took the fuel line off the rail and turned the key, no gas comes out.

I tried to jump the ECU and check the codes, but the CEL just stays on and doesn't flash. also, the CEL seems to be way dimmer than the rest of the cluster lights.

I have a ground on the thermostat housing, and the tranny, and the valve cover. I checked the fuses for the ECU, and the fuel pump and they aren't blown. Anybody have any ideas?

EmminoDaGreat
03-03-2011, 10:32 AM
Ground on the intake manifold? Usually under the IAT.

gsrteg
03-03-2011, 02:50 PM
Check if you power cable to your starter is tightened down good (sometimes overtime the power cable to the starter gets loose and doesn't supply enough voltage to crank the car). Check if all your cables to and from the battery are tightened good. Keep in mind, buy yourself a volt meter, test your battery (should read at least 12.3 volts alone, and when you crank the engine it should then read up to 14 volts). Oh yea, when you try to turn your key to the 3position without cranking (dont crank the engine yet, just turn the key to the ON position), do you hear a clicking noise. Sometimes on older cars, the Main Relay goes out (do some research on this one, theres a way to test the Main Relay for malfunction). If Main relay is bad, car will not crank.

gsrteg
03-03-2011, 02:52 PM
Oh yea, check your fuses (sometimes you overlook things, and the problem can be as little as a blown fuse). Let me know how things go...If you need schematics, and diagnostic diagrams, search SuperHonda.com

Captain-Obvious™
03-03-2011, 03:51 PM
I didn't think about the main relay.... But I already checked all the simple stuff.

mrniceguy311
03-09-2011, 02:41 PM
getting fuel now. no spark. jumped the ecu and the engine code says tdc/cps. would that tell the ecu to not spark the dizzy?

gsrteg
03-09-2011, 06:55 PM
Electrical problems are a major headaches. Make sure the the tdc/cps plugs are fitted snug and good. If the pins in the connector are dirty clean them. Does your battery have enough voltage? If you battery is bad and not holding enough charge, it won't send enough voltage to crank the engine. Make sure all you groundings are secured and clean, meaning they have good physical metal to metal contact to the chassis or engine. Keep us updated dude.

Captain-Obvious™
03-10-2011, 12:03 AM
getting fuel now. no spark. jumped the ecu and the engine code says tdc/cps. would that tell the ecu to not spark the dizzy?

Proud of you Greg, that sounded very professional.

mrniceguy311
03-29-2011, 11:08 AM
Nads Auto failed to mention a little somethin about a tiny metal plate attached to the timing belt crank sprocket. it breaks the magnetic field when the crank turns and so the ecm knows to activate the fuel injectors. thanks nads. this couldve been done the 2nd day i had my motor but nooooooo. been beating my head against a wall for basically no reason.

had to get a guy who owns an only honda shop (Southern Appalachian Auto) to come by my house and it took him about 20 minutes to figure it out.

called the interruptor plate for holofex switch. jdm motor doesnt have it. its for the ckp/tdc sensor

now everything is back together and its the timing.

car starts but sputters like crazy. between the timing and balance belt anything could be a fraction off and id be screwed. so close...so close.

Tech5
03-30-2011, 02:20 PM
Check if you power cable to your starter is tightened down good (sometimes overtime the power cable to the starter gets loose and doesn't supply enough voltage to crank the car). Check if all your cables to and from the battery are tightened good. Keep in mind, buy yourself a volt meter, test your battery (should read at least 12.3 volts alone, and when you crank the engine it should then read up to 14 volts). Oh yea, when you try to turn your key to the 3position without cranking (dont crank the engine yet, just turn the key to the ON position), do you hear a clicking noise. Sometimes on older cars, the Main Relay goes out (do some research on this one, theres a way to test the Main Relay for malfunction). If Main relay is bad, car will not crank.


Negative

His car is turning over my friend if that was the case it wouldn't have enough power to turn over period ....

Tech5
03-30-2011, 02:22 PM
BTW TDC code is in the dizzy

And yes you need that plate on the crank , glad everything worked out ...

MyAccordCoup
04-21-2011, 08:17 AM
1996 it isnt in the distributor anymore. its a dual sensor around the crankshaft for Crank Position and TDC.

the one pickup mentioned before, that was the plate, and there was a second pickup on the sprocket for the balance shaft belt. basically it was something really dumb. anyways.

I just wanted to say thanks to everybody for the help, I appreciate it.

Captain-Obvious™
04-21-2011, 11:12 AM
Issue is resolved.