Need swap info verified...

[psycho_freke]

I've done a few searches, and the most complete swap info I've found so far was by xero_xero here (http://www.importatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?305702-Help-plz-obd2-to-obd1-ls-swap&highlight=b18c+swap).
I just need someone to verify that I have all of my info right so that it all goes smoothly.

I have a 1994 Civic DX and a 1996 GSR. I want to put the GSR motor into the civic. So... drop the motor into the civic using the Integra mounts and the harness is plug and play. I need OBD1 Injectors (although I don't quite understand how this makes a difference). I'll also need an OBD1 GSR ECU. I can use the same dizzy and Alternator(?) provided that I rewire the dizzy using the OBD2-1 wire conversion table and rewire the alternator to work with the obd1 plug. Next I need to run wires for the VTEC Oil Pressure, VTEC solenoid, knock sensor, IAB solenoid and IAB 12V+ from the harness to the ecu and pin them as follows:

VTEC Oil Pressure @ D6
Knock Sensor @ D3
VTEC Solenoid @ A4
IAB Solenoid move from A20 to A17
IAB 12+V @ spliced to wire @ A25, yel/blk wire @ injectors, or the IACV
Is this all right? Is there too much? Am I missing something? This will be my first swap and I want to make sure everything goes smoothly.

Here is the info I found on rewiring the alternator to work. I'm also not sure how accurate it is.
Rewire an OBD2 Alternator to OBD1 Alternator (http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/how-rewire-obd2-alternator-obd1-car-88690/).

I just want to make sure I do this right, because it's a lot to take in and I'm thinking it would only take wiring one thing wrong to screw up everything.

While I'm at it I was thinking about doing the following:

Use this page to convert to Power Steering (http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=5091)
OEM Cruise Control Swap (http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/cruise_control/index.html)
Install GSR cluster into 92-95 Civic (http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=97738)
DIY Solid Mounts (I'm not sure about this one...) (http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=30&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0)

And swap over the Integra braking system (although I'm not sure if it will work since the DX is non-ABS. I don't care about the ABS, I just want the 4 wheel disc).

[Theycall_Metue]

its really plug and play, your making it sound hard. i suppose the motor is obd1. the engine harness will plug right up.
since your going obd1, you'll use a jumper harness at the ecu. you DO NOT need to swap out sensors etc etc. obd1 gsr dont come with knock sensors, * correct me if im wrong*

i havnt swap a gsr before. though i've swapped obd2 b18b1 into a 93 ex.
everything was plug and play, the reason for rewiring alternator, injectors, dizzy, was because obd1 and ob2 harness use different plugs, BUT WITH THE OBD2 HARNESS, YOU DONT NEED TO DO ANYTHING AND IT STILL PLUG INTO THE FIREWALL HARNESS. the obd1 ecu will read the only sensors it needs. for example. obd2 ls had knock sensor. the obd1 ls ecu will ignore that it. sensors are sensors. dont matter the obd of the ecu, it'll still read it as long as its connected.


oh and for the mounts, integra driver side mount, integra passenger side mount, integra T-bracket. rear mount dont matter, both civic and integra will work, though integra mount will be stronger.

the really difference between your swap and mine was, you need a jumper harness and wire up vtec.

[psycho_freke]

its really plug and play, your making it sound hard. i suppose the motor is obd1. the engine harness will plug right up.
since your going obd1, you'll use a jumper harness at the ecu. you DO NOT need to swap out sensors etc etc. obd1 gsr dont come with knock sensors, * correct me if im wrong*

i havnt swap a gsr before. though i've swapped obd2 b18b1 into a 93 ex.
everything was plug and play, the reason for rewiring alternator, injectors, dizzy, was because obd1 and ob2 harness use different plugs, BUT WITH THE OBD2 HARNESS, YOU DONT NEED TO DO ANYTHING AND IT STILL PLUG INTO THE FIREWALL HARNESS. the obd1 ecu will read the only sensors it needs. for example. obd2 ls had knock sensor. the obd1 ls ecu will ignore that it. sensors are sensors. dont matter the obd of the ecu, it'll still read it as long as its connected.


oh and for the mounts, integra driver side mount, integra passenger side mount, integra T-bracket. rear mount dont matter, both civic and integra will work, though integra mount will be stronger.

the really difference between your swap and mine was, you need a jumper harness and wire up vtec.

No, the motor is OBD2 which is why I'm expecting all of the wiring issues. Now, you just said OBD1 and OBD2 harness use different plugs but then said just the opposide by saying that the OBD2 is plug and play with the OBD1 harness in the Civic. I also don't understand why I need an OBD1 jumper harness for the ECU if I'm plugging the engine wiring harness into the factory civic (OBD1) harness, wouldn't the ECU plug right in to the factory harness without a jumper harness??? :thinking:

[Theycall_Metue]

A little bit more info.

You'll need conversion mount brackets for b series. Use the d series power steering pump. Or if you can. Turn the power steering line to match the b series pump.
I got DIY solid mounts on mine. Fill it up with polyester. I think it's 3m?? Or something. It's used on windshield. 18 bucks at autozone.

[Theycall_Metue]

Engine harness to firewall harness plug right up. Jumper harness is for the plug that goes into the ecu. Since it's obd2 ecu, dont worry about it

[psycho_freke]

A little bit more info.
You'll need conversion mount brackets for b series. Use the d series power steering pump. Or if you can. Turn the power steering line to match the b series pump.
I got DIY solid mounts on mine. Fill it up with polyester. I think it's 3m?? Or something. It's used on windshield. 18 bucks at autozone.


Okay, you're confusing me again. First you say I can use the Integra mounts, now you say I need conversion mount brackets.
Also, I can't just use the d series power steering pump, because I have no power steering pump. I was going to use the info from that link to swap over to the Integra's power steering because I don't have power steering...




Engine harness to firewall harness plug right up. Jumper harness is for the plug that goes into the ecu. Since it's obd2 ecu, dont worry about it

Again, confused... :???:
So now you're trying to say with me having an obd2 ecu that it's gonna just plug into the stock civic OBD1 connector?! How is this possible? I have an OBD2 ECU, but I was considering buying an OBD1 to make life easier on me... for some reason I'm not completely understanding what you're trying to say here...

[Sneezin]

worry about it when you get to that point. don't sit here and confuse yourself anymore

[1civic]

worry about it when you get to that point. don't sit here and confuse yourself anymore

yes then he will see its all plug and play...lol, OBD1 p72 ecu and hes good

[psycho_freke]

worry about it when you get to that point. don't sit here and confuse yourself anymore

I've only got one car... I have to make sure the shit is straight when I get done because it's gonna leave me without a car until it's finished...
For someone that depends on their car to take them 90+ miles per day, it's important I make sure I know what I'm doing before I get started...

[Theycall_Metue]

You need to do some major homework lol.
I'm bore in class so....
There is the mount (connect to the engine) and there is the mount bracket (on the car itself). For you, integra mounts on the engine and a conversion b series mount bracket for the fram so the engine can sit in your engine bay.
Like I said, you dont have to worry about the jumper harness if ur ecu is obd2. Obd1 and obd2 had different clips in whic connects harness. The cars harness (inside the dash) will not plug onto a obd1 ecu there for you need a jumper harness that plug into the car harness and the other end is converted to be able to plug into the ecu.

Take a deep breath and read what I'm saying carfully. It'll help

[Theycall_Metue]

I'm sorry, for some reason i though u said 96 dx. You won't need a mount bracket conversion.
Bring it to my house. I'll do the motor swap in 3 hours lol

More info (I'm adding as I remember)
Integra axles, I don't remember what year but the year after da up to 94 the 95 and up are I think too larg for civic spindles ( or maybe Ive received wrong axles.
B series shift linkage.
Jumper harness if your using the obd2 gsr ecu.

[Sneezin]

the only reason you would need to do any crazy wiring changes is if you didnt have the harness for the gsr.... use the teg mounts and fill them if you want solid, or get poly inserts. and for the brakes just take the rear spindles off the teg and put them on the civic..

[psycho_freke]

Cool! So, long story short: pull civic motor/tranny/linkage/mounts/axles...
install integra motor/tranny/linkage/mounts/axles (fill mounts w/3m for DIY)
Install wires for the VTEC Solenoid and VTEC oil pressure,
Use and OBD1 GSR ECU
Swap rear integra spindles with rear civic spindles
DONE!

[Theycall_Metue]

wait 24hr for the 3m to fully dry

[psycho_freke]

Are the exhaust flanges the same on the civic as they are for the integra
where I can bolt my GSR header directly to the civic exhaust?

Are the cruise control, power steering, and cluster threads pretty accurate?
Tired of not having an RPM gauge and the Integra one is much nicer looking XD

Use this page to convert to Power Steering (http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=5091)
OEM Cruise Control Swap (http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/cruise_control/index.html)
Install GSR cluster into 92-95 Civic (http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=97738)

[Theycall_Metue]

the exhaust wont bolt up. the flang needs to get turned. a simple cut and wield will fix it all.
for the tech, you'll need to pin the connectors differently. there is a DIY integra/si cluster in a eg. search on google. i found it before.

[psycho_freke]

the exhaust wont bolt up. the flang needs to get turned. a simple cut and wield will fix it all.
for the tech, you'll need to pin the connectors differently. there is a DIY integra/si cluster in a eg. search on google. i found it before.

I thought that's what the thread I posted the link to was for? Re-pinning the tach connectors...

I actually need a new exhaust under the civic and thought about having a muffler shop use the muffler and silencer from the Integra to create
a cat-back that will bolt up to the civic. Unfortunately I don't see how that will work without first doing the swap, then having the car towed to the
muffler shop. I also wonder how much they're gonna want to charge me -_-

[Theycall_Metue]

prob between 100-200. you can acutaly use the whole integra exhaust system. its a little bit longer but you can get the shop to cut some parts out to make it fit.
i normally till them my budget so that i dont get charge a crazy amount. if they dont think they can do within the budget than move on l0l.
oh and i didnt see the link lol, thought it was your signature

[Sneezin]

take plenty of pics and keep us posted :goodjob:

[psycho_freke]

I'll definitely take pics when I get started on it. It won't be immediately though, since I have to work out transportation while I'm working on it.

[Sneezin]

get up sat morning and do it,,,wont take that long i think i did my first swap in 5 hours with no help from someone thats did it before. just make sure you got all the tools you need to do it right there,,cause it sucks when you car is tore apart and realize you need another tool and have no way to go get it.

-jack and jack stands, or if you got a lift
-drain tranny fluid so when you take the axles out the tranny fluid dont leak everywhere
-drain coolant
-32mm for axles
-ball joint separator
-17mm
-19mm
-10mm
-12mm
-a punch and hammer to knock the pin out of the shift linkage
-flat head to help get the axles out of the tranny..be sure not to mess up the axle seal or it will leak when you put the axles back in and put fluid in
-pliers to take hoses of
-maybe a few more sockets if you changing power steering and other brackets
-and or course a cherry picker

ppl help if i left something off

[Cynical 1]

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b18cswap/swap.php - good write up on what you have to do. shows what pins you have to move or add. you're basically turning an obd2 engine into an obd1.

you'll add vtec pressure, vtec solenoid, and knock sensor wiring to the chassis between the ecu and the engine. you'll move the wire for the IAB's to another empty pin (step #29 in the link).

use the engine harness that is on the gsr. use the chassis harness that is in the civic. use an obd1 P72 ecu. use 94-00 GSR axles and shift linkage. exhaust will be about 6-8 inches too short from mating the gsr downpipe and cat to the civic exhaust - you can get this fixed by taking it to an exhaust shop, or by buying an adjustable test pipe (as it will let you customize the length and the clocking of the exhaust flanges).

i happen to have said test pipe available for $50, used about 200 miles... PM me if interested.



2000ex, get to class. :)

[psycho_freke]

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b18cswap/swap.php - good write up on what you have to do. shows what pins you have to move or add. you're basically turning an obd2 engine into an obd1.

you'll add vtec pressure, vtec solenoid, and knock sensor wiring to the chassis between the ecu and the engine. you'll move the wire for the IAB's to another empty pin (step #29 in the link).

use the engine harness that is on the gsr. use the chassis harness that is in the civic. use an obd1 P72 ecu. use 94-00 GSR axles and shift linkage. exhaust will be about 6-8 inches too short from mating the gsr downpipe and cat to the civic exhaust - you can get this fixed by taking it to an exhaust shop, or by buying an adjustable test pipe (as it will let you customize the length and the clocking of the exhaust flanges).

i happen to have said test pipe available for $50, used about 200 miles... PM me if interested.



2000ex, get to class. :)

I find it funny how in my very first post on this thread I mentioned those very same things with the wiring and everyone told me, oh no! It's all plug and play! And now someone else is telling me basically what I said in the first post :crazy:

[Cynical 1]

I find it funny how in my very first post on this thread I mentioned those very same things with the wiring and everyone told me, oh no! It's all plug and play! And now someone else is telling me basically what I said in the first post :crazy:

it is plug and play???...???

you use the integra stuff, plug it into the civic...

[psycho_freke]

it is plug and play???...???

you use the integra stuff, plug it into the civic...

Nah, for it to be truly plug and play, I wouldn't have to run any additional wires or repin any on the ECU connector
It is NEARLY plug and play, but still requires a little modification

That's why when a few people started telling me it was plug and play I got confused.
Maybe it's because I know more about computers than I do cars, but with computers
for something to be plug and play, you just plug it in and it works - no installing, no restarting, just plug it in and go.

[Cynical 1]

Nah, for it to be truly plug and play, I wouldn't have to run any additional wires or repin any on the ECU connector
It is NEARLY plug and play, but still requires a little modification

That's why when a few people started telling me it was plug and play I got confused.
Maybe it's because I know more about computers than I do cars, but with computers
for something to be plug and play, you just plug it in and it works - no installing, no restarting, just plug it in and go.


well, in the car world this is as plug and play as it gets for an engine swap...

anyways... :rolleyes:

[psycho_freke]

So... on the wiring. Can the wires I need be de-pinned from the ECU and connector at the strut and then repinned the same way into the civic where all I have to do is plug in the shock tower connectors and go, or do I have to cut the engine harness wires I need from the shock tower connector and splice them to the ones going to the ECU?

I also found this, but wonder if it's really worth it to spend so much on 4 wires:
rywire.com OBD1 & OBD2 VTEC Subharness (http://www.rywire.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=18{15}61{8}42{12}38)

[Theycall_Metue]

buying it would be easier and faster. save some headache

[Cynical 1]

So... on the wiring. Can the wires I need be de-pinned from the ECU and connector at the strut and then repinned the same way into the civic where all I have to do is plug in the shock tower connectors and go, or do I have to cut the engine harness wires I need from the shock tower connector and splice them to the ones going to the ECU?



yes, you can depin whatever donor vehicle you decide to get the wires from, and plug them into your civic engine harness and ecu connectors.

or, go to the junkyard, get some pins and 6-8 inches of wire on each pin. buy some 16 or 18 gauge wire, and splice in...

i can't justify paying for a subharness, when making one takes 15 minutes and $5...

[psycho_freke]

i can't justify paying for a subharness, when making one takes 15 minutes and $5...

I was kinda thinking the same thing, but I wasn't sure what the best method was or how time consuming it might be. My thought was depinning the wires from the ECU and the engine harness on the teg and then wiring them to the ECU and Engine Harness on the civic would offer the cleanest install..

[psycho_freke]

Also, how accurate is this IAB info? I want to be sure I get this wired right.


obd2 B18C1 into a 5th gen civic (hondaswap.com) (http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/obd2-b18c1-into-5th-gen-civic-29116/)


If you get the wiring harness with the '99 GS-R swap all you need to do is drop it in, plug the engine harness in, and add wires for the VTEC solenoid, knock sensor, and VTEC pressure switch.

Get an OBD1 GS-R ECU. It plugs right in.

For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

The reason this needs to be done is due to the fact that the OBD1 GS-R ECU uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB and the OBD2 GS-R ECU uses a positive trigger to activate the IAB. If you use the OBD2 GS-R engine harness with the OBD1 GS-R ECU the IAB will not work by just moving A20 to A17 (as with an OBD1 GS-R ECU and OBD1 GS-R engine harness).