gsr block, ls crank, ls rods keeping oil squirters

[x_doug_x]

ok, i had a big argument with a couple people on here a while back that told me my oil squirters would not clear the ls crank counterweights and the pistons. i told them i put the motor together and they cleared fine. these people still wanted to argue with me claiming it was impossible. well, all i did was bend them down a hair and test fit everything they cleared fine. i now have the bottom end apart to re ring it again and i took some pictures for you guys. please ignore the one broken squirter i swear on my soul this was not due to the crank or pistons, i accidently hit it with the cyliner hone last night honing the cylinder i promise..... you can clearly check them out there are no scuffs, dents or anything else that would show they hit the counterweights or pistons. i can even take a picture of the broken one if you like and you can see there are no marks where the piston or counterweights hit it. but if i can't find a oil squirter in the next day or 2 i'll prob. order the block off kit cause it's cheap anyways.

this motor has seen nitrous, track abuse and 9500rpm on a daily basis.

people ask me why i don't "build crap rite" according to there way of doing it. and it's simply because not many people know what is or isn't rite or what can or can't be done. a lot of people just assume crap. you can see my pistons from where i was spraying nitrous in previous threads and the type r pistons are prestine there are no detonation marks or anything.

this thread is mainly for the guy who argued with me that my squirters were gonna be all beat up when i pulled it apart. i'm not looking for a argument, just trying to inform others not to listen to everything you're told. i like to learn for myself even if it costs more money in the long run, i know what my motor is and isn't capable of myself, not because someone else told me wrong information.

i would also like to show you that the ls rods are a little thicker than the gsr rods. it's hard to tell from the pictures, i dunno how much, but they are thicker.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0372.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0371.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0370.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0369-1.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0368.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0367.jpg


http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0375.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0374.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee119/x_fastest_x/DSCN0373.jpg

[x_doug_x]

i don't see the point in wasting 1000 dollars on the bottom end that isn't needed. i do believe the factory ls crank+rods+type r pistons will be fine for 300hp. and i don't plan on making any more than that in a civic. it will be hard enough to put that down to the ground.

[Glade]

Why LS rods?

[x_doug_x]

ls crank +ls rods give you the torque of a ls down low untill v-tec kicks in. in theory you're not supposed to be able to wind the motor as high, however... i have turned this combo over to 9500 a lot. imo. they are also better rods than gsr. plus when i was rebuilding my motor the first time, i found a ls crank and ls rods with no spun rod bearings for 125 bucks. i didn't find a gsr crank+rods. this is the main reason i went this route to begin with.

[Starrfire]

I figured out the reason why I was arguing with you. I was right in my case. I found out why mine had to be modified as much. You see the the little notch in your oem piston at the bottom of the skirt? Well that is the reason yours was so easy, my "rs machine" fake's as it turns out on ebay didn't have that therefore they didn't clear. But with factory pistons the problem seems much easier to avoid. But not on mine.

[Glade]

Yeah I feel ya, but it won't go til 9500 many times, lol.

[x_doug_x]

i put 1000-2000 miles on it abusing it at the track once or twice a week and didn't have any issues.