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View Full Version : B20vtec not running right, need some help please



DaRussian
03-28-2010, 06:18 PM
OK got a obd1 b20vtec its a b20b with a b16a2 head p30 ecu. everything stock. and i cant get it to run right it cranks really hard and after it does crank when it warms up it idles up and down and when i do try to drive it it has no power, when i drive it it jerk like once in a while it will get its power jerk and then loose it all again. it seems like the air/fuel ratio is mest up or something. timing is 100% correct it has good spark all vacum hoses seem to be hooked up. anybody knows what it could be? valves dont seem like they ticking seems like they are adjusted. could it need like a tune or something?

RBS
03-28-2010, 08:27 PM
it does need a tune, yes. BUT, does it have a CEL? even a untuned NA car will feel slightly " powered "

CaTcH22
03-28-2010, 08:30 PM
Probably a fuel issue. Needs to be chipped and tuned.

RBS
03-28-2010, 08:32 PM
i think he has a bad sensor or something is unplugged. im sure he has a CEL... let just wait for him to chime in

CaTcH22
03-28-2010, 08:35 PM
Check to be sure the MAP and TPS connectors arent switched.

DaRussian
03-28-2010, 09:00 PM
im gonna have to check it out. I think the sensors are connected right. cel is number 22. For vtec preasure sensor. but i dont think it would run like that because of the sensor. It seems more like that guy was saying for not enough fuel. Would a fuel pressure regulator help? I just got one just need to put it on. Maybe tomorrow

RBS
03-28-2010, 10:25 PM
im gonna have to check it out. I think the sensors are connected right. cel is number 22. For vtec preasure sensor. but i dont think it would run like that because of the sensor. It seems more like that guy was saying for not enough fuel. Would a fuel pressure regulator help? I just got one just need to put it on. Maybe tomorrow


a FPR will do nothing good if your using the stock fuel system. double check everything in the engine bay and replace your fuel filter if you havent

DaRussian
03-28-2010, 10:37 PM
yea thats one thing that i havent replaced yet. are the vtec and ls same? well the fuel pressure should tell me whats my pressure right? what should the pressure be for a b18 vtec? i also have a 96 gsr that i put a head on and its doing the same thing. runs good on idle but when i rev it up or go to drive it its acting up, if i floor it form a dig it seems like it choking at some points and once in a while it will get that lil rip of power and go then after it jerks like that it boggs down again.

one thing i should ask when i am setting up my timing by the 1st cyl when i set the 1 cyl at tdc do i set the cams when the cyl is at tdc on its way up or on its way coming down? hope i explained it right.

preferredduck
03-28-2010, 10:48 PM
#1 cyl on TDC should be the highest point it travels upward, did you jump the ecu for timing it on the service connector, also if it's a b20 what oil pump are you using esp if it's a number 22 code. i'll look in my book and give specifics for this.

DaRussian
03-28-2010, 10:54 PM
idk what oil pump its using but i think its stock, i bought the car like this so idk. i guess i could ask the guy who i bought it from. what do u mean by jumping the ecu for timing?

preferredduck
03-28-2010, 11:02 PM
ok to check the pressure switch.

with ignition off, check for continuity between the two oil pressure switch terminals on the vtec solenoid, it should show continuity if not then replace.

turn ignition on and check the voltage between oil pressure switch harness blue/black wire and ground. there should be approx 12 volts, if not then inspect for an open or short to ground in the blue/black wire between the connector and the ECM.

this reads the oil pressure which is what drives vtec and if it's too low hence i asked what oil pump ypu have then it may not read.
the engine speed, MPH, TPS, MAP, and coolant temp must all be correct for it to work also.

loss of power is either fuel or spark and if you are using a b16 manifold, fuel rail, FPR and p30 ecu it should have the right pressure from the fuel pump, check the filter esp if it's been sitting awhile. also if you tried to time it and did not jump the service connector then it's not in time. check it out and let us know this baffles me. atleast the CEL is a start so something isn't reading somewhere correctly.

preferredduck
03-28-2010, 11:11 PM
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2128762

here is a link to a pic of what it looks like.

DaRussian
03-28-2010, 11:19 PM
ok thanks for the help ill check it out tomorrow and let u know whats up, im thinking that i could have set the timing on the cylinders way coming down because both of the cars are doing the same thing. u know what im talking about when im trying to put cyl #1 at tdc there is that "flat spot" where when you sping the crank the cyl dont move.

preferredduck
03-29-2010, 01:34 AM
post up what you find, hope the timing info was helpful ,make sure to use as timing light and it never hurts to check it with lower lighting too.

SLow_POke
03-29-2010, 05:04 AM
Did it ever run right? or when did this start happening. I'm also in Dville. If your close by I'd let u test out my ECU to see if it is a bad ECU. I have a OBD1 GSR


Also, I dont think he will be able to time it the way you mention.... you are suppose have it at idle when you do time it, he said it is reving high... ignition timing wont do him any good.


Russian, Yes you are suppose to time it at TDC on its way up. make sure your cams are lined up best they can also when you ahve it at TDC. Since it is a B20 vtec it might be a hair of so off and or if the head has been milled or block decked it wont be spot on but close enough. One other thing i would check for is dirty injectors.

B20B!Ithink?
03-29-2010, 05:06 AM
OK got a obd1 b20vtec its a b20b with a b16a2 head p30 ecu. everything stock. and i cant get it to run right it cranks really hard and after it does crank when it warms up it idles up and down and when i do try to drive it it has no power, when i drive it it jerk like once in a while it will get its power jerk and then loose it all again. it seems like the air/fuel ratio is mest up or something. timing is 100% correct it has good spark all vacum hoses seem to be hooked up. anybody knows what it could be? valves dont seem like they ticking seems like they are adjusted. could it need like a tune or something?
oh shit i forgot to tell you dude you need to run mor fuel pressure when i did my swap i tried drivin it and no one on here knew what the fuck it was i had fuel pressure of 20psi for a b20 you need 35 to 40 so i put it at 40 and it ran so great(b20b stock no vtec) get adjustable fuel pressure rg and turn to 40 for b20 then for my b20 vtec im runnin like 55 50

SLow_POke
03-29-2010, 05:36 AM
OEM FP would be sufficient.... and 20 psi on a vtec motor.... is not OEM specs. should not be either on a stock FPR when doing a frankenstein...--------------------------


LoL i dont know what he fuck i just typed. But What i ment was your FP should not have been at 20 psi the stock fuel pressure should be more then enough *but If it is was at 20 psi then yes.... like someone above me said change your FF before you buy and put on a adjustable FPR. I honestly would not waste my time of a AFPR on a stock motor.

35 to 40 is what a normal FPR would read with Vaccum

RBS
03-29-2010, 12:37 PM
check timing

preferredduck
03-29-2010, 10:49 PM
OEM FP would be sufficient.... and 20 psi on a vtec motor.... is not OEM specs. should not be either on a stock FPR when doing a frankenstein...--------------------------


LoL i dont know what he fuck i just typed. But What i ment was your FP should not have been at 20 psi the stock fuel pressure should be more then enough *but If it is was at 20 psi then yes.... like someone above me said change your FF before you buy and put on a adjustable FPR. I honestly would not waste my time of a AFPR on a stock motor.

35 to 40 is what a normal FPR would read with Vaccum

stock usdm b16 30-38 psi vacuum line unhooked and 40-48 hooked up. i have mine on the lower side like 29 psi because i was running rich as hell so i leaned it up a bit. also the other person is right about the head being decked etc but i also know you can change the idle when adjusting the timing because i have noticed it before. it has to be one of the two things for sure. why wouldn't you be able to time it with a timing light? are the marks that jacked up on the swap or what? if he has the ecu jumped and moves the dizzy according to a timing light the idle might come down???

DaRussian
03-29-2010, 11:17 PM
oh shit i forgot to tell you dude you need to run mor fuel pressure when i did my swap i tried drivin it and no one on here knew what the fuck it was i had fuel pressure of 20psi for a b20 you need 35 to 40 so i put it at 40 and it ran so great(b20b stock no vtec) get adjustable fuel pressure rg and turn to 40 for b20 then for my b20 vtec im runnin like 55 50


i bought a afpr i need to put it on, i did not have time to even touch the car today i wish i could have cant wait to figure out whats wrong with it with all these great ideas lol.
first thing im gonna do is make sure my timming is set on the cyl way up, it should line up right because my head is not milled and block is not decked.
when i get to it tomorrow ill let u guys know what happens


Thanks for all the help, i didnt think i would get this much, usually people just reply something stupid lol

DaRussian
03-29-2010, 11:19 PM
hey im in Dville off of Chapel Hill road. if timing and stuff dont fix it u think u can let me try ur ecu and dizzy?