PDA

View Full Version : Washed, claybared, and waxed my friend's 240



87 Turbo II
02-28-2010, 08:24 PM
First time it has ever been waxed in the 2 1/2 years he has owned it. And like 4th time in the span it's even just been washed haha. Looks pretty good. Sorry there aren't a lot of pictures but the lighting was really bad and it was too cold to drive away and make an actual event out of the photo taking.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/IMG_0071-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/IMG_0077-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/eastermonkey/IMG_0085copy.jpg

Mr. Antonov
02-28-2010, 08:27 PM
Nice work :goodjob:

I need to wax the cressida

HachiDori
02-28-2010, 08:27 PM
Looks like a pretty clean 240

MR2DR
02-28-2010, 08:36 PM
I need to swing by to get some pointers from you.

My car is in need of some killer claying and waxing.

87 Turbo II
02-28-2010, 08:44 PM
I need to swing by to get some pointers from you.

My car is in need of some killer claying and waxing.

I'm no professional haha. The only reason I did this car was because I was tired of seeing the 240 in as bad of condition as it was. TONS of tree sap and really neglected paintwork. Spent about 3 hours on it, and it's not too shabby for 21 year old paint. It's still got some non-repairable paint damage in some areas, but it looks much better.

If you want my pointer though:

Wash with microfiber towels, use dish soap, not car soap, it's a stronger detergent, and it will clean better, the downside is the detergents will also eat off old wax.

Then use 91% Isopropil Rubbing Alcohol for tough tar, grease, oil and grime, wipe in small circles with a microfiber towel until the blemish lifts then rinse with water as you do not want the alcohol to sit on the clearcoat for a long period of time.

Then use a spray on detailer with a claybar (they come in kits together) and rub the clay in the same direction that the wind flows over the car. Do small 5 or 6 inch square areas at a time. The clay will get easier and easier to move across the surface until there isbasically no resistance. When it gets to that point, move on until the whole car is done. Kneed the clay to expose clean clay as needed.

Wax at the end with a round wax applicator and rub in very tight circles. the tigheter and more overlapping the circles, the better the wax will be applied, but the longer the car will take, so find a comfortable median. Then, allow the wax to dry (not in direct sunlight) and rub it off.

Stand back, and enjoy :)

stevo_EF91
02-28-2010, 09:15 PM
it still looks dirty

87 Turbo II
02-28-2010, 09:24 PM
it still looks dirty

The rear bumper is awful, and the fact that the sun was setting made me go to ISO 400. The paint is in pretty bad condition, but looked REALLY damn good in person after all the hard work. The photography on this set was pretty awful as the lighting SUCKED. The sun was so far to the side, that all the dark areas in the pictures had to be brightened up, and the brighter areas toned down, which added grain and flattened the images. I'll get some better pics of this thing this week.

tdurr
02-28-2010, 09:25 PM
hey! i kno that kid. lol

tdurr
02-28-2010, 09:26 PM
i just noticed u forgot tire shine!!! tisk tisk.. after 3hours of all that work.. u forgot the simplest thing...

green91
03-01-2010, 06:56 PM
Looks good.

BTW tire shine sucks. Looks good until you drive the car, then dirt sticks to it AND your fenders.

DVSRX-7
03-01-2010, 07:56 PM
Nice work. I will need to do this to my new RX-7.

Brian*
03-01-2010, 07:59 PM
Looks ok, but I was waiting for after pics lol. Get a high speed buffer on that bizh

SouthrnStyle
03-01-2010, 08:31 PM
It needs paint correction for it too look good. followed by a good sealant then topped with a good wax

MachNU
03-10-2010, 05:12 PM
I'm no professional haha. The only reason I did this car was because I was tired of seeing the 240 in as bad of condition as it was. TONS of tree sap and really neglected paintwork. Spent about 3 hours on it, and it's not too shabby for 21 year old paint. It's still got some non-repairable paint damage in some areas, but it looks much better.

If you want my pointer though:

Wash with microfiber towels, use dish soap, not car soap, it's a stronger detergent, and it will clean better, the downside is the detergents will also eat off old wax.

Then use 91% Isopropil Rubbing Alcohol for tough tar, grease, oil and grime, wipe in small circles with a microfiber towel until the blemish lifts then rinse with water as you do not want the alcohol to sit on the clearcoat for a long period of time.

Then use a spray on detailer with a claybar (they come in kits together) and rub the clay in the same direction that the wind flows over the car. Do small 5 or 6 inch square areas at a time. The clay will get easier and easier to move across the surface until there isbasically no resistance. When it gets to that point, move on until the whole car is done. Kneed the clay to expose clean clay as needed.

Wax at the end with a round wax applicator and rub in very tight circles. the tigheter and more overlapping the circles, the better the wax will be applied, but the longer the car will take, so find a comfortable median. Then, allow the wax to dry (not in direct sunlight) and rub it off.

Stand back, and enjoy :)

:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:

Just curious but where did you learn some of these tips? :lmao:

ANGEL0710
03-10-2010, 05:42 PM
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:

Just curious but where did you learn some of these tips? :lmao:

GOOGLE?!

MachNU
03-10-2010, 07:11 PM
GOOGLE?!

Google would lead to WAY better answers than that! :lmfao:

cpearson
03-10-2010, 07:13 PM
Looks good.

Infamous_1
03-10-2010, 07:33 PM
you waxed it good enough no homo.

hseries4
03-10-2010, 10:19 PM
No wonder it looked so good at the meet.. I need to do it to my car, but it's not really worth it, so I'll keep the money.

87 Turbo II
03-13-2010, 09:42 AM
Google would lead to WAY better answers than that! :lmfao:

correct what I wrote then. I learned from word of mouth and I'm not here to spread mis-information. I actually want to do everything properly.

Elbow
03-13-2010, 09:47 AM
:lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao:

Just curious but where did you learn some of these tips? :lmao:

I KNEW you were going to come in here cocky and all. :no: You're not the best. :doh:

Justin51982
03-13-2010, 09:58 AM
I'm no professional haha. The only reason I did this car was because I was tired of seeing the 240 in as bad of condition as it was. TONS of tree sap and really neglected paintwork. Spent about 3 hours on it, and it's not too shabby for 21 year old paint. It's still got some non-repairable paint damage in some areas, but it looks much better.

If you want my pointer though:

Wash with microfiber towels, use dish soap, not car soap, it's a stronger detergent, and it will clean better, the downside is the detergents will also eat off old wax.

Stand back, and enjoy :)


NO! Do not use dish soap, especially on a newer car, it breaks down and destroys the clear coat and finish. Use car soap and just scrub a little harder.

Justin51982
03-13-2010, 10:00 AM
Rubbing alcohol is pretty bad too, they make bug and tar remover especially for this. Don't follow this advice unless you really want to mess up your finish. :no:

Elbow
03-13-2010, 10:06 AM
Rubbing alcohol is pretty bad too, they make bug and tar remover especially for this. Don't follow this advice unless you really want to mess up your finish. :no:

Stay away from me then I use thinner to get off tar.

Oh wait that was the Ferrari detailer telling me to do that. :lmfao:

MachNU
03-13-2010, 11:13 AM
Wash with microfiber towels, use dish soap, not car soap, it's a stronger detergent, and it will clean better, the downside is the detergents will also eat off old wax.

-Correct and incorrect. Only certain microfibers are meant for washing. Ones you get from Autozone, etc will actually marr the paint somewhat as you wash. DAWN soap is used for people who do full correction as its great for stripping off any wax and sealants from the paint. But you would still follow this up with a normal wash to remove any dawn left on the paint.

Then use 91% Isopropil Rubbing Alcohol for tough tar, grease, oil and grime, wipe in small circles with a microfiber towel until the blemish lifts then rinse with water as you do not want the alcohol to sit on the clearcoat for a long period of time.

-Thats actually a stupid thing to do. Again that is a professional detailing trick to use when its diluted, but thats only for making sure panels are completely clean after claying, compounding and polishing.

Then use a spray on detailer with a claybar (they come in kits together) and rub the clay in the same direction that the wind flows over the car. Do small 5 or 6 inch square areas at a time. The clay will get easier and easier to move across the surface until there isbasically no resistance. When it gets to that point, move on until the whole car is done. Kneed the clay to expose clean clay as needed.

-The direction you do is not a factor. Its not going to change how easily containments come off the paint. Doing it in a 5x6 squares is just stupid and who ever told you this had no idea what they where talking about.

Wax at the end with a round wax applicator and rub in very tight circles. the tigheter and more overlapping the circles, the better the wax will be applied, but the longer the car will take, so find a comfortable median. Then, allow the wax to dry (not in direct sunlight) and rub it off.

-Also close but no. Rubbing in small tight circles is not going to make a difference. Unless your using a wax with has correctaive abilities then as long as you get a thin even layer across the car your fine. Also dont really let it dry, most just let it get to a haze and then remove. If you let it dry completely it will generally cake up and make for a harder time to remove it.

Your answers in bold in the quote.


I KNEW you were going to come in here cocky and all. :no: You're not the best. :doh:

Hell I would not have said anything if it wasnt for the tips he was giving. Also who said I was the best? I just know I am better than alot of others.


NO! Do not use dish soap, especially on a newer car, it breaks down and destroys the clear coat and finish. Use car soap and just scrub a little harder.

Not that you cant, just dont use it in a heavy concentration. It with a alittle water as a wax stripping step is quite common.


Rubbing alcohol is pretty bad too, they make bug and tar remover especially for this. Don't follow this advice unless you really want to mess up your finish. :no:

Yep, even more so if its not diluted correctly.


Stay away from me then I use thinner to get off tar.

Oh wait that was the Ferrari detailer telling me to do that. :lmfao:

Actually Mineral Spirits can be used in detailing paint correction if its diluted correctly.

87 Turbo II
03-14-2010, 04:16 PM
Your answers in bold in the quote.


I appreciate the lessons, I'll be more careful. These are just things had heard and it seems that it was just poor communication on real tips that messed me up, as I was like 1/3 right about everything, haha.