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bigdare23
01-25-2010, 12:04 PM
Why?
When venting your valve cover, you help release pressure that is built up in your crankcase. Excess crankcase pressure can led to blow-by, seals popping, and a reduction in power. When doing LSVtecs/B20Vtecs and using an obd2 block, you loose the capability to release some of that crankcase pressure through the PCV system, and must make up for the lack of having one. You can release this pressure two ways, through the block or the head. I'm currently doing both.


Parts needed for an AN Stainless Steel catch can setup.

1-Catch Can

This is the one I’m using (circled)
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/my%20car%20parts/DSC02257.jpg
It has two female ½ NPT fitting welding on the side, and one at the bottom for draining oil. (The fitting will depend on where you purchase the catch can from or what you decide to use if you made your own.) The inside must be baffle to allow the oil and flumes to separate.


2- AN to Male NPT Adapter Fitting

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220847b_w.jpg
This part may not be applicable to every setup. I needed this because my catch can require I convert my ½ NPT fittings to –10AN fittings.
(Part# SUM-220047 for red/blue, add B to the end for black)


2-Weld-on Bungs

I decide to use -10AN bungs on my valve cover
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220062_w.jpg

Most people use -8AN, -10AN, or -12AN (there are people that use bigger ones, but I doubt they would apply to someone here). The rule of thumb, is the larger the better. Larger diameter bung would cause your catch can to less likely fill up with oil. Why? Because with larger bungs the velocity of the flumes is slower and less likely to carry oil with it. (Part# SUM-220063)


Stainless Steel Line (length depends on the placement of your catch can)

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-230003.jpg
Order the lines based on what bungs you are using. I welded -10AN bungs on my valve cover, so I got -10AN SS lines. The length you need depends on where you’re placing the catch can. I order two 3ft lines (Part# SUM-230003)

2-90degree bends

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220087b_w.jpg
Once again get 2 90degree bends based on your hose size. I’m using -10AN so I got -10AN 90degree bends. One end is going into the SS hose, and the other end will be screwed down to the bungs on the valve cover (Part# SUM-220087 for red/blue, add a B at the end for black)

2- Hose Ends

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220090b_w.jpg
Once again get the hose ends based on your hose size. One side is going to the hoses, the other end is getting screwed on to Male NPT Adapter Fitting that I screwed into my catch can. (Part# SUM-220090 for red/blue, add a B at the end for black)


Assembly

To attach the bungs to your valve cover, you must strip the paint where the bungs go. Then you must “TIG” weld the bungs to the valve cover. Whatever location you weld your bungs to make sure you the OEM baffle is covering the area. Now drill holes, making sure you don’t drill through the baffle.

Results
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/my%20car%20parts/valvecover.jpg

To cut and attach the hose ends and 90degree bends, just mimic this link or video and your ready to attach the hoses to the valve cover and catch can.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2150049

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto

*edit*
Here are the final results
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/Car%20painted/IMG_8276.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/Car%20painted/IMG_8277.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/Car%20painted/IMG_8278.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/Car%20painted/IMG_8279.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/bigdare23/My%20Car/Car%20painted/IMG_8280.jpg

Thanks to Blueridge Motorsports for the Catch Can, and DG Performance for TIG welding the bungs to the valve cover.

If I missed anything, just pm me and I'll add it to the post. :goodjob:

Halfwit
01-25-2010, 12:21 PM
not even in ga anymore and still bringing the heat. good job my brother.

LokiSays
01-25-2010, 12:23 PM
I got my valve cover vented for my b20vtec.

JITB
01-25-2010, 12:24 PM
could you just run it back through a pcv and through the intake back in the motor like it is oem? I always thought just releasing all that pressure would do more harm than good...of course there are extreme cases..but..u know!

B18c1Turboed
01-25-2010, 12:54 PM
Venting your valve cover helps a little, But venting the block is what really helps with blow by and stuff.

jdm>usdm
01-25-2010, 02:11 PM
could you just run it back through a pcv and through the intake back in the motor like it is oem? I always thought just releasing all that pressure would do more harm than good...of course there are extreme cases..but..u know!


Its not just pressure its releasing. Theres alot of oil and nasty shit that wants to come out too when you have all that pressure. You dont want to be feeding that back into your motor.


EDIT: over read were you said filter it through the pcv. Sooo idk.lol

bigdare23
01-26-2010, 12:30 PM
not even in ga anymore and still bringing the heat. good job my brother.

Thanks homie :goodjob:



could you just run it back through a pcv and through the intake back in the motor like it is oem? I always thought just releasing all that pressure would do more harm than good...of course there are extreme cases..but..u know!

If you are talking about th3 hoses that goes from the air box to the valve cover, it won't work. Most people believe that line is there to "suck" out the flumes in the valve cover, but it doesn't. It actually pushes air into the valve cover so the flumes can go through the PCV system. Unfortunately, OBD2 B18bs and B20s have the PCV system incorporated into the valve cover. So when you swap heads, it deletes the PCV system totally.

You can see the hole at the top center for the PCV valve.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t183/smellzlkechicken/DSC_0076.jpg



Venting your valve cover helps a little, But venting the block is what really helps with blow by and stuff.

I agree 100%. I had a debate with someone on CarolinaHondas.com about the the block vs valve cover. I actually decided to vent both the block and valve cover.

Just_CHill
01-26-2010, 01:13 PM
I agree 100%. I had a debate with someone on CarolinaHondas.com about the the block vs valve cover. I actually decided to vent both the block and valve cover.

How do you vent blocks? (I fail at googling apparently cause I didn't find anything)

Also a question for the original subject: Is there a certain compression you have to reach before you start venting VC's and blocks? Like do you have to be a 13.1:1cr to worry about venting?

Edit:

Also does obd1 builds have the same problems?

tnomud
01-26-2010, 01:47 PM
I will be doing a write-up on how to vent blocks in the coming days. :)

B18c1Turboed
01-26-2010, 02:15 PM
Very easy Remove the Pvc box and then remove the 2 15mm Hex on the back of the block.Then you buy the 2 fittings too screw in there and run lines too a catch can.

bigdare23
01-26-2010, 02:35 PM
If you're venting the block you will need these fittings

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/duosonic66/install_s6.jpg

bigdare23
01-26-2010, 02:41 PM
How do you vent blocks? (I fail at googling apparently cause I didn't find anything)

Also a question for the original subject: Is there a certain compression you have to reach before you start venting VC's and blocks? Like do you have to be a 13.1:1cr to worry about venting?

Edit:

Also does obd1 builds have the same problems?


check out my post above for the part #s to vent the block.

Motors that have pcv system "don't" have to be vented, but that doesn't mean you wont benefit from it. Any motor (including stock) will benefit from relieving crankcase pressure.

Just_CHill
01-26-2010, 02:52 PM
Very easy Remove the Pvc box and then remove the 2 15mm Hex on the back of the block.Then you buy the 2 fittings too screw in there and run lines too a catch can.


check out my post above for the part #s to vent the block.

Motors that have pcv system "don't" have to be vented, but that doesn't mean you wont benefit from it. Any motor (including stock) will benefit from relieving crankcase pressure.

Great info. Thanks for the response guys! :cheers:

JITB
01-26-2010, 04:29 PM
If you are talking about th3 hoses that goes from the air box to the valve cover, it won't work. Most people believe that line is there to "suck" out the flumes in the valve cover, but it doesn't. It actually pushes air into the valve cover so the flumes can go through the PCV system. Unfortunately, OBD2 B18bs and B20s have the PCV system incorporated into the valve cover. So when you swap heads, it deletes the PCV system totally.

You can see the hole at the top center for the PCV valve.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t183/smellzlkechicken/DSC_0076.jpg








oooh so this is just a honda thing?

I always see people with those breather filters on their valve covers, when they get aftermarket intakes... which is always doing more hurt than good...

DVSRX-7
01-26-2010, 05:32 PM
cool, so how do you this for rotary? lol

bigdare23
01-26-2010, 06:57 PM
oooh so this is just a honda thing?

I always see people with those breather filters on their valve covers, when they get aftermarket intakes... which is always doing more hurt than good...


Exactly! But ricers will be ricers...




LOL

JITB
01-26-2010, 07:03 PM
Exactly! But ricers will be ricers...




LOL



oh i was using my mazda brain..:ninja:...lol

jojeezek
01-26-2010, 08:38 PM
what about D16s or D15B's? Do they need this as well?

r.etheridge
02-13-2010, 09:54 PM
awesome write up man!

preferredduck
02-20-2010, 12:00 AM
so basically i have a jdm b16a 2nd gen but am hooked up obd-2b so i don't have to worry about all this do i, i remember everyone putting the little filter on the valve cover but that wont hel me. my hose runs from the VC to the intake so i guess im good. this will make me rethink a b20 bottom end on my car. also would venting my block be a good idea and very costly, i'm ballin on a budget til the ball joints are done and CV axle.

ash7
02-20-2010, 12:16 AM
If you're venting the block you will need these fittings

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u266/duosonic66/install_s6.jpg

i love you, thanks. :)

-jonathan

94ej2
02-20-2010, 03:07 AM
Z10 makes the -AN fitting for the block too.

speedminded
02-20-2010, 03:41 AM
could you just run it back through a pcv and through the intake back in the motor like it is oem? I always thought just releasing all that pressure would do more harm than good...of course there are extreme cases..but..u know!You don't want that sludge from the block to go into your intake where it's sucked in coating the injectors, spark plugs, gunking up the valves, and top of the piston where it's just going to burn anyways. A catch can allows the crankcase to vent while preventing the sludge from being recycled and burned.

Dragsters have been known to run vacuum pumps from the PCV system freeing up to 50hp...but I think the NHRA banned it lol!


so basically i have a jdm b16a 2nd gen but am hooked up obd-2b so i don't have to worry about all this do i, i remember everyone putting the little filter on the valve cover but that wont hel me. my hose runs from the VC to the intake so i guess im good. this will make me rethink a b20 bottom end on my car. also would venting my block be a good idea and very costly, i'm ballin on a budget til the ball joints are done and CV axle.You'll get very little, if any, bloy by from the valve cover. I've always run my block through a catch can and the valve cover to the intake and my intake manifold was always spotless.

Slomaro Z28
02-20-2010, 07:56 AM
Can you have one decent size can to catch both, the head and the block? Instead of having 2 different catch cans? I am boosted and have some blow-by, was told (by reputable shop) my crankcase pressure was way too high.

SPOOLIN
02-20-2010, 08:52 AM
i have 2 off the valve cover and 1 off the block. 8an

-S Double C-
02-20-2010, 10:34 AM
im just venting my valve cover CFT's 8 sec. hatch doesnt vent there block just two from the valve cover

preferredduck
02-28-2010, 02:13 AM
You don't want that sludge from the block to go into your intake where it's sucked in coating the injectors, spark plugs, gunking up the valves, and top of the piston where it's just going to burn anyways. A catch can allows the crankcase to vent while preventing the sludge from being recycled and burned.

Dragsters have been known to run vacuum pumps from the PCV system freeing up to 50hp...but I think the NHRA banned it lol!

You'll get very little, if any, bloy by from the valve cover. I've always run my block through a catch can and the valve cover to the intake and my intake manifold was always spotless.

good info for sure.

bigdare23
02-28-2010, 05:43 PM
Can you have one decent size can to catch both, the head and the block? Instead of having 2 different catch cans? I am boosted and have some blow-by, was told (by reputable shop) my crankcase pressure was way too high.

Yea you can without any problems. With me having a CRX my engine bay is kind of cramped, so it's easier just to run two different (small) catch cans.

bigdare23
02-28-2010, 06:00 PM
Oh yeah, here's the finish product

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9733/crxb201.jpg

teh_mugen18
02-28-2010, 06:33 PM
Very easy Remove the Pvc box and then remove the 2 15mm Hex on the back of the block.Then you buy the 2 fittings too screw in there and run lines too a catch can.


you mentioned removing the Pcv box on the back of the block.... just wondering, what would you use to cover up that hole where you removed the box, or would it just be opened up to the atmosphere??

jody754
02-28-2010, 07:37 PM
you plug it with this
http://www.bandrfittings.com/b-amp-r-block-plug.html

vtecace23
02-28-2010, 07:51 PM
Or you could just get a freeze plug from the part store to plug it off. Its only like a dollar versus the thirty plus shipping

bigdare23
03-23-2010, 03:31 PM
Bump because I added better pics of everything assembled in the 1st post

97_luder
03-23-2010, 04:39 PM
so does the catch can need to have the filter on the top? what is the main difference between #1 and #2
1.http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/pdmcan3-large.jpg
2.http://www.tpis.com/catalogimages/LS1_Catch.jpg

thanks

nelson9995
03-25-2010, 02:12 PM
wow now I just wish I can do that... Good Job!

97_luder
03-25-2010, 04:40 PM
are the plugs on the back of an jdm h23a block oil or antifreeze?

civic-r11
03-25-2010, 10:34 PM
U plugged the stock catch can.. and you put fitting in the other two lines and ran another catch can.. i am lost.. I have put the catch can plug in...and was going to get the b&r catch can with the drain back.. what do you suggest? Or should i run two catch cans? One for the valve cover and one for just the block.. i am kind of lost now..

bigdare23
04-05-2010, 10:17 AM
so does the catch can need to have the filter on the top? what is the main difference between #1 and #2
1.http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/pdmcan3-large.jpg
2.http://www.tpis.com/catalogimages/LS1_Catch.jpg

thanks
Me personally, I would use a vented catch can (with a filter). The filter will allow the vapors to escape the system while keeping the excess oil in the catch can. Honestly, I don't know how a non vented catch can relieves pressure if it's just a closed loop.

bigdare23
04-05-2010, 10:18 AM
are the plugs on the back of an jdm h23a block oil or antifreeze?

Oil

You wouldn't want to vent antifreeze would you?!? LOL

bigdare23
04-05-2010, 10:27 AM
U plugged the stock catch can.. and you put fitting in the other two lines and ran another catch can.. i am lost.. I have put the catch can plug in...and was going to get the b&r catch can with the drain back.. what do you suggest? Or should i run two catch cans? One for the valve cover and one for just the block.. i am kind of lost now..

I have a b20 which doesn't have a black box on the back. I just removed the two plugs on the back of the block with a big ass allen key. Then I replaced those two plugs with that nipples (part #'s shown in the picture above). I ran a hose from each nipple, then connected them to a vented catch can. The vapor goes out (relieving pressure), and any excess oil is caught in the catch can.

Should you run two?

That up to you and you motor. I had the block vented, and still noticed a few leaks. So I decided to go ahead and vent the valve cover to help assist the other catch can.

wahvtec
04-29-2010, 05:08 PM
honda valve covers are all made of aluminum right? If so can the bungs be welded on with a mig welder by chance

OldSchool87
04-29-2010, 08:36 PM
well all newer Honda valve covers are aluminium. some old ones are metal. but yes you can use a MIG if you get you heat right otherwise you will burn through the cover and you will have some slag. its best to use a TIG. TIG is made for precision welds and finer metals and such and has no slag. MIG is typically used for thicker metals.

b17a1db2
04-29-2010, 09:33 PM
well all newer Honda valve covers are aluminium. some old ones are metal. but yes you can use a MIG if you get you heat right otherwise you will burn through the cover and you will have some slag. its best to use a TIG. TIG is made for precision welds and finer metals and such and has no slag. MIG is typically used for thicker metals.

your statement does not fully make sense and contains errors. you refer to aluminum as if it was not a metal by saying new ones are aluminum, and some old ones are just "metal". I would not MIG weld aluminum for welding bungs on them. Not all MIG produces slag, only FCAW welding in fact, and MIG can be great for the thick and thin. Pretty much got it right on the TIG parts though. TIG welding will be ideal for valve cover welds. It just bugs me to have incorrect or not fully correct statements about welding as this is what I do for a living. hahahaa

wahvtec
04-30-2010, 09:27 AM
haha sorryits been a long week and was trying to understand the concept. Thanks for the info and that sentence i completely failed at was supposed to be about the weld in bungs. On summit racing.com they have aluminum and steel bungs. My guess is that it would be best to weld aluminum to aluminum. All i have is a Lincoln electric weld pack wire feed. I guess ill pay for this job thanks.

OldSchool87
04-30-2010, 03:12 PM
your statement does not fully make sense and contains errors. you refer to aluminum as if it was not a metal by saying new ones are aluminum, and some old ones are just "metal". I would not MIG weld aluminum for welding bungs on them. Not all MIG produces slag, only FCAW welding in fact, and MIG can be great for the thick and thin. Pretty much got it right on the TIG parts though. TIG welding will be ideal for valve cover welds. It just bugs me to have incorrect or not fully correct statements about welding as this is what I do for a living. hahahaa

I was using the word metal very loosely my man. would steel have been a better word for you. maybe I should have said softer metals as in aluminum VS harder metals like steel and I know all about Flux core welding too my man. flux core (FCAW)has the gas in the wire and MIG( Metal Inert Gas)(GMAW) you add the gas separate. and yes if the heat is off it can spit. but obviously your good like me and can do it without it spitting. Yes I do some welding myself. but I didn't think I needed to go into detail. I figured common sense would tell a person that aluminum is metal I didn't feel that i need to do metal/welding school 101 on IA. Lol. but thanks for the corrections

OldSchool87
04-30-2010, 03:20 PM
haha sorryits been a long week and was trying to understand the concept. Thanks for the info and that sentence i completely failed at was supposed to be about the weld in bungs. On summit racing.com they have aluminum and steel bungs. My guess is that it would be best to weld aluminum to aluminum. All i have is a Lincoln electric weld pack wire feed. I guess ill pay for this job thanks.

aluminum to aluminum and steel to steel.............But I know tricks most people don't know tho weld aluminum to steel. but I wont be given that up. I make money off that one. but any good "master welder" could figure it out.

bigdare23
05-01-2010, 05:44 PM
honda valve covers are all made of aluminum right? If so can the bungs be welded on with a mig welder by chance

TIG weld them only