pebojelly
09-06-2009, 11:17 PM
I am not here to harp or complain. BUT
I have read 10 threads tonight about this mani or that,which set up will be free and make like 10,000 whp.
Stop and read before you ask.
I wont tell you to search like most although I should
Here goes,
If you have a stock car that is 9.5 to 1 or less you can run a simple turbo @ 5-7lbs fine without to much fear of any failure.If you have 180xxx and slap on a turbo it will probably smoke or cause blow by,maybe even line your rings up and ruin your bottom end.
The cheapest turbo that will hold up will be something used from a factory car.garret makes a ton of factory car turbo's,so does borg warner.
If your fab happy you can take your t3 flange and make an adapter to bolt a k03 to a t3 for a temp turbo till you save up some breed to buy your next victim.Most wrx owners upgrade the snail from there car so look in the parts threads or find a sto/wrx forums etc as a start.
Ebay turbo mani's are fine,some may need a brace to hold that monster snail you want to slap on your motor.
All they do is hook a turbo to your car so your exhaust can spin the thing up.If it leaks and hols the weight then it should be great.
Ebay front mount coolers are great,not the best but do the trick.
I know people making huge numbers with FMIC's from eBay
Boost pipe can be made from exhaust piping and painted to look nice,universal elbows can be had for cheap to complete your project.
DIY sets from eBay are great and do fine.
( Get a crimp tool to make the boost pipe have a flare to ensure the best seal possible.Boost leaks are no fun)
Now for all the I need a tune or what can I run with the stock ecu or which blah blah will work.
You can slap in some bosch injectors please do not run a 1000cc injector with a 8 psi car it's stupid,waste of money and no one will care.
Bosch green tops are cheap and flow enough to flood most hondas.
You can run an adjustable FPR,boost gauge and Air fuel mixture gauge with a MBC to get a decent running street tuned car.
Dyno tuning is the best but most tuners local only tune WOT and not daily driving and you will find that you have lean and rich stages with your dyno tuned car.
Turbo cars want a colder plug so those uber splitfires are a waste of money,NGK coppers are your best friend.
Which turbo should you run.
If your the type who wants to pop the hood and see all the bolt on crap then a non gat3ed turbo is for you.Myself I prefer a gated turbo for the simplicity and reliability.
I will give an example to all this.
I have a 1.8t Audi.
I did away with all my un wanted vacuum crap.
I run revo stg III software mainly to do away with my MAF.
VW runs a close loop system so in order to get the things I wanted out of my car this was my path.
That said I run a simple cx racing cheap eBay style t3 mani.
I picked up a gt35r turbo cheap it was an upgrade for a buick grand national.
I set my revo to run no 02 sensor and use my sensor just to run my air fuel gauge.
I have a MBC and boost gauge set @ 20 psi.
I have a Ebay FMIC xs power.
I run Bosch Green top 42lb 440cc injectors with a adjustable FPR 4 bar
The reason I upgraded my turbo over the k03 where 2 reasons.
1-Ball bearing over wet floating bearing.(spools very smooth and about the same being the larger turbo takes more to spool,but the ball bearings make it very close to the same with the stable air flow to avoid a boost spike)
2- as said above the K03 is stable @ 17-18 psi and I am setup to run 20psi,while the k03 will spike 20 psi it will not hold it.
Don't do things just to look cool,because sometimes that huge eBay turbo might not out flow a small wrx factory turbo.
I hope this helps with the flood of tire kickers coming on to ask what cam do I need to run on my vtec 80 psi build in my 82 civic with 360xxx 4 speed that will run 5 sec miles baby.
Cams,valves,valve springs etc are all things that most turbo cars do not need unless your getting into a serious build.
If your going to shell out that kind of money and man hours you need a solid machine shop with experience in that kind of app.
Most guys who build N/A motors can assemble your motor fine,gap rings,gauge bearing etc but can't tell you what this cam will do to your car.
If your going that route find a good machine shop unless you know how.Build your bottom end.
Then find a bad ass cylinder head builder,Alabama cylinder head,Dover,Tim Gains,Pro Line/Ackworth race motor to build you a head to peek your project.
Please keep in mind,valve springs do not add power,they will allow your rev happy car not to walk a valve.
Rod bolts stretch so ARP fasteners will help you when you run your car @ 8k all day being cool burning up 93 because you have deep pockets you baller.
If you have any questions ask and maybe someone will answer them,but please stop asking if your d15 can make 600 hp with a stock motor 3mm head gasket and a complete ss chrome turbo kit you found from google.
I hope I have shed some light on how you can build a turbo kit on a budget that will be reliable and not a complete waste of money.
I have read 10 threads tonight about this mani or that,which set up will be free and make like 10,000 whp.
Stop and read before you ask.
I wont tell you to search like most although I should
Here goes,
If you have a stock car that is 9.5 to 1 or less you can run a simple turbo @ 5-7lbs fine without to much fear of any failure.If you have 180xxx and slap on a turbo it will probably smoke or cause blow by,maybe even line your rings up and ruin your bottom end.
The cheapest turbo that will hold up will be something used from a factory car.garret makes a ton of factory car turbo's,so does borg warner.
If your fab happy you can take your t3 flange and make an adapter to bolt a k03 to a t3 for a temp turbo till you save up some breed to buy your next victim.Most wrx owners upgrade the snail from there car so look in the parts threads or find a sto/wrx forums etc as a start.
Ebay turbo mani's are fine,some may need a brace to hold that monster snail you want to slap on your motor.
All they do is hook a turbo to your car so your exhaust can spin the thing up.If it leaks and hols the weight then it should be great.
Ebay front mount coolers are great,not the best but do the trick.
I know people making huge numbers with FMIC's from eBay
Boost pipe can be made from exhaust piping and painted to look nice,universal elbows can be had for cheap to complete your project.
DIY sets from eBay are great and do fine.
( Get a crimp tool to make the boost pipe have a flare to ensure the best seal possible.Boost leaks are no fun)
Now for all the I need a tune or what can I run with the stock ecu or which blah blah will work.
You can slap in some bosch injectors please do not run a 1000cc injector with a 8 psi car it's stupid,waste of money and no one will care.
Bosch green tops are cheap and flow enough to flood most hondas.
You can run an adjustable FPR,boost gauge and Air fuel mixture gauge with a MBC to get a decent running street tuned car.
Dyno tuning is the best but most tuners local only tune WOT and not daily driving and you will find that you have lean and rich stages with your dyno tuned car.
Turbo cars want a colder plug so those uber splitfires are a waste of money,NGK coppers are your best friend.
Which turbo should you run.
If your the type who wants to pop the hood and see all the bolt on crap then a non gat3ed turbo is for you.Myself I prefer a gated turbo for the simplicity and reliability.
I will give an example to all this.
I have a 1.8t Audi.
I did away with all my un wanted vacuum crap.
I run revo stg III software mainly to do away with my MAF.
VW runs a close loop system so in order to get the things I wanted out of my car this was my path.
That said I run a simple cx racing cheap eBay style t3 mani.
I picked up a gt35r turbo cheap it was an upgrade for a buick grand national.
I set my revo to run no 02 sensor and use my sensor just to run my air fuel gauge.
I have a MBC and boost gauge set @ 20 psi.
I have a Ebay FMIC xs power.
I run Bosch Green top 42lb 440cc injectors with a adjustable FPR 4 bar
The reason I upgraded my turbo over the k03 where 2 reasons.
1-Ball bearing over wet floating bearing.(spools very smooth and about the same being the larger turbo takes more to spool,but the ball bearings make it very close to the same with the stable air flow to avoid a boost spike)
2- as said above the K03 is stable @ 17-18 psi and I am setup to run 20psi,while the k03 will spike 20 psi it will not hold it.
Don't do things just to look cool,because sometimes that huge eBay turbo might not out flow a small wrx factory turbo.
I hope this helps with the flood of tire kickers coming on to ask what cam do I need to run on my vtec 80 psi build in my 82 civic with 360xxx 4 speed that will run 5 sec miles baby.
Cams,valves,valve springs etc are all things that most turbo cars do not need unless your getting into a serious build.
If your going to shell out that kind of money and man hours you need a solid machine shop with experience in that kind of app.
Most guys who build N/A motors can assemble your motor fine,gap rings,gauge bearing etc but can't tell you what this cam will do to your car.
If your going that route find a good machine shop unless you know how.Build your bottom end.
Then find a bad ass cylinder head builder,Alabama cylinder head,Dover,Tim Gains,Pro Line/Ackworth race motor to build you a head to peek your project.
Please keep in mind,valve springs do not add power,they will allow your rev happy car not to walk a valve.
Rod bolts stretch so ARP fasteners will help you when you run your car @ 8k all day being cool burning up 93 because you have deep pockets you baller.
If you have any questions ask and maybe someone will answer them,but please stop asking if your d15 can make 600 hp with a stock motor 3mm head gasket and a complete ss chrome turbo kit you found from google.
I hope I have shed some light on how you can build a turbo kit on a budget that will be reliable and not a complete waste of money.